Removing rear discs

bokoboy

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evening folks been doing a bit research on YouTube before replacing my discs and pads ! On one of the clips the guy just removed caliper and released epb remove his t30 screw and the old disc slid out at an angle without removing the carrier :blink: Has anyone experienced this ??? Ps 2017 s3 fl model
 
For the price of a cheapy obd tool that would release it I wouldn’t do it this way. Things like obd11 and Carista are like £40 and risk of a £500+ caliper. Warranty won’t cover you making a mistake.
The torx bit way as I was told by my mechanic should be used in emergency or when all has failed. It’s removes motor and you manually wind the piston back. Problem is when you put it back together the computer doesn’t know if it’s new or used pads in and can over tighten the piston when handbrake is applied.
 
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i know you can remove old discs off of 8p A3 without removing the carrier (did it today at 11am lol) but ive yet to try on 8V. As said above, the calipers should be retracted using a diagnostic tool but ive been informed this can be done manually by removing motor from caliper but im not comfortable with this approach.
 
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i know you can remove old discs off of 8p A3 without removing the carrier (did it today at 11am lol) but ive yet to try on 8V. As said above, the calipers should be retracted using a diagnostic tool but ive been informed this can be done manually by removing motor from caliper but im not comfortable with this approach.
ive bought an Ancel vd 500 for releasing electric parking break just thought it would be handy if discs slipped out without unbolting calliper as the bolts are supposed to be renewed :icon thumright:
 
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ive bought an Ancel vd 500 for releasing electric parking break just thought it would be handy if discs slipped out without unbolting calliper as the bolts are supposed to be renewed :icon thumright:

Last set of discs and pads I did came with new bolts anyway. Agree it’s a pain that the carrier and all normally has to come out but it’s been like that’s since beginning of time so nothing new. Only thing new is I’m getting lazier in my old age and just pay folk to do the dirty work for me:wink:
A local Indy would have changed your discs and pads for probably less than a cheap obd tool like Carista or obd11
 
Last set of discs and pads I did came with new bolts anyway. Agree it’s a pain that the carrier and all normally has to come out but it’s been like that’s since beginning of time so nothing new. Only thing new is I’m getting lazier in my old age and just pay folk to do the dirty work for me:wink:
A local Indy would have changed your discs and pads for probably less than a cheap obd tool like Carista or obd11
I quite enjoy doing the work bit job satisfaction “ call me old fashioned “ :grinning::grinning:
 
I quite enjoy doing the work bit job satisfaction “ call me old fashioned “ :grinning::grinning:
I used to and still do but it’s difficult getting the time as with work and family it’s lucky I get half an hour to clean the car nowadays.
 
I have just changed my rear discs and pads S3 8v 2016 using Carista for £16 and did not need to take off the carriers. Release caliper, remove pads, remove torx screw, smack the discs until loose, slide out from carrier, push piston in, fit discs/pads and put it all back together. EASY!
 
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I have just changed my rear discs and pads S3 8v 2016 using Carista for £16 and did not need to take off the carriers. Release caliper, remove pads, remove torx screw, smack the discs until loose, slide out from carrier, push piston in, fit discs/pads and put it all back together. EASY!
You could make nice video and put it on YT .. + do some pics ...
 
I used VCDS to retract the parking brake and change discs/pads.
 
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why? u don't need it at all .. I just didn't press parking button and left car in neutral

Because if you want to put in new pads they are considerably thicker than worn out pads, hence the need to wind back the inner screw mechanism inside the piston.
 
Why ??? The vcds resets the thickness of the pads to the callipers so you don’t get excessive wear.

But hey you do what you want, I’ll just do it the right way. @Phone
 
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there’s a function test(or whatever it’s called) in vcds and what this does is take up the slack between the pad and piston when you change discs/pads. Think other things like obd11 and carista does this too.
I wouldn’t skip this step. Calipers are not cheap.
 
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there’s a function test(or whatever it’s called) in vcds and what this does is take up the slack between the pad and piston when you change discs/pads. Think other things like obd11 and carista does this too.
I wouldn’t skip this step. Calipers are not cheap.

The ‘end lining change’ mode in VCDS cycles the caliper a few times to ascertain pad thickness.
No need for any function test.
 
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Yes, if you dont rewind the electric motors before you push the pistons back there is danger in damaging the motors. I know somebody who didnt do this on an A4. It jammed the rear brakes on cooking the discs & pads.
 
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Because if you want to put in new pads they are considerably thicker than worn out pads, hence the need to wind back the inner screw mechanism inside the piston.
So? Of course..
When u not press button P in car u don't have engaged brakes so they are released and you can move with motor up n down as you like as it is on same principal as e.g. any Cd rom drive.. U can move with lens up n down as you like and motor will correct itself because tehy are called moment motor as soon as they hit end or there is pressure these motors will detect it and will stop.. Then remove pads and u simply press piston with fingers or winder.. Simple.. Then once job done u press button P and motor will simply engage and Prees pads..
 
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Why ??? The vcds resets the thickness of the pads to the callipers so you don’t get excessive wear.

But hey you do what you want, I’ll just do it the right way. @Phone
Ooh comoon looks like u didn't even replace it or you don't understand guys how motor works in these brakes.. Once motor engage and start pressing pads it will automatically sense and once it is pressed it automatically stops..
 
there’s a function test(or whatever it’s called) in vcds and what this does is take up the slack between the pad and piston when you change discs/pads. Think other things like obd11 and carista does this too.
I wouldn’t skip this step. Calipers are not cheap.
I have done it without any vcds and all perfect..
 
I have just changed my rear discs and pads S3 8v 2016 using Carista for £16 and did not need to take off the carriers. Release caliper, remove pads, remove torx screw, smack the discs until loose, slide out from carrier, push piston in, fit discs/pads and put it all back together. EASY!
Can anybody confirm the above is possible by using obd to release epb then remove pads and disc will come out without removing carrier . I have seen these bolts are a PITA to access to remove carrier
 
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Can anybody confirm the above is possible by using obd to release epb then remove pads and disc will come out without removing carrier . I have seen these bolts are a PITA to access to remove carrier
I have always wondered this also..Seen conflicting posts on whether it's possible or not on the S3 rear discs.
 
S3 have vented bigger rears so might have just enough wiggle room with the calipers off.
 
Th
You need to remove the carrier on the 8v 150tdi quattro to replace the rear disks. I tried to remove a disk before and it would not come off. Carriers off and new disks going on soon.

Thought I had sussed the correct front and rear caliper carrier bolts but put my vehicle details in to check compatibility and it says they don't fit.

Vehicle is a 2016 A3 8VF 150tdi sportback quattro.

Anyone know the correct part numbers?
 
Th


Thought I had sussed the correct front and rear caliper carrier bolts but put my vehicle details in to check compatibility and it says they don't fit.

Vehicle is a 2016 A3 8VF 150tdi sportback quattro.

Anyone know the correct part numbers?
M12 x 1.5 x 65mm long grade 10.9(high tensile)
I think the OEM part number for the rear is

With it being a critical part I would try and confirm before you buy.
 
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I managed to get my old discs out but couldn’t get the new ones in without removing the carrier. That was the worst part getting the M12 spline bit in to release the bolts. Luckily I has access to low profile impact bits.
 
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I managed to get my old discs out but couldn’t get the new ones in without removing the carrier. That was the worst part getting the M12 spline bit in to release the bolts. Luckily I has access to low profile impact bits.
What was the thickness of the worn discs compared to the new ones?
I'm assuming the wear on the discs is what allowed them to come out ?
 
It was only a couple of mill but they were pretty corroded-only 38k when I changed them. Definitely just the wear which allowed the removal. Was about £120 for parts and Audi wanted just over £400 to do it!
Just away to do 2 sets of front discs and pads on our kids cars next week! At least they will be easier to get at than the S3 rears.
 
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It was only a couple of mill but they were pretty corroded-only 38k when I changed them. Definitely just the wear which allowed the removal. Was about £120 for parts and Audi wanted just over £400 to do it!
Just away to do 2 sets of front discs and pads on our kids cars next week! At least they will be easier to get at than the S3 rears.
A job well done then mate.:thumbs up:
It's a shame the way the discs tend to go rusty on VAG cars..I noticed the other day a neighbours Vauhall Insignia rear discs were worn but showed very little rust? Not sure if the quality of the steel VAG use is of very good quality in the brake disc department at least?:sadlike:
 
M12 x 1.5 x 65mm long grade 10.9(high tensile)
I think the OEM part number for the rear is

With it being a critical part I would try and confirm before you buy.

Both of these should fit. Not sure what the difference is between them. I should hopefully get replacements with a standard hex head or allen head.

The fronts listed are standard hex head but there's different lengths of 55mm or 35mm. Not sure what the correct one is.
 
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It seems that 35mm is the correct front bolts for the current brake setup.

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/febi-bilstein/9799864

The issue I have is that I am changing the front caliper carriers to upgrade the 288mm disks to 312mm disks. I am not sure if the new carriers will require the 55mm bolts.

Anyone know?
This is a really old post I found. Maybe there is info in there that might help? Or maybe not? Sorry mate had a good look for you but seeing as you are retrofitting from standard to non standard I can't find the correct info to specific models.

https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/the-moderately-informational-brake-thread.96917/
 
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