Remote locking/alarm problem

[Shug1874]

In the latest attempt by my car to make me torch it, the whole remote locking/central locking stuff appears up the swanny.
Remote no longer works (changed the batteries, still nothing). Unlocking drivers door manually only unlocks that door (I'm assuming it should unlock all like my old vectra did)
Boot now opens manually, but if keys aren't in ignition, the alarm has a tendancy to go off.
While in the car, pushing the lock/unlock button does nothing, but I can hear motors whirring away. One in boot near sub, and one somewhere near glovebox.
Its a 2001 1.8T quattro sport 5 door if it makes a difference. I'm hoping someone can help cos this car has been having problems since just after I bought it. I'm almost wishing I'd just bought another vectra.....

 

[NHN]

Find someone local with Vag for a scan fella 1st, relax its probably something simple, might even be the convenience module that needs replacing as yours is a facelift so changed from air pump based locking to solenoids so also check fuses aswell as even with whirring noises might be something simple as a fuse gone as all locks are down including the door central locking

I'm sure we'll get you sorted somehow.

 

[HTC]

Weird. So can you here the central locking pump run when to press the remote button? Do the indicators flash?

At first I thought the central locking control unit (which includes the alarm) was faulty. But if the pump runs......not sure. Vacuum connection disconnected somewhere? Alarm sounding because you are not sure which state the alarm is in....armed/unarmed?

Checked all the fuses?

 

[NHN]

Its a facelift, doesnt use vacuum locking

 

[HTC]

Its a facelift, doesnt use vacuum locking

Incorrect, all 8L A3s have vacuum locking.

 

[NHN]

I possibly stand corrected, just doing some checking cause thats not what I got back from audi when I was investigating some wiring/locking system/closure from the 8L pre & facelift, oh well if I'm wrong then I'll post it.

If it is indeed still vacuum then stands to reason a pipe has come of somewhere & I'm also assuming its still in the rear passenger quarter behind the Bose subwoofer.

Question, when you hear the whirring does it continue for quite a while or just for few seconds?

 

[Shug1874]

Whirring goes on a while. Sounds even odder now.
Remote no longer works at all, and I can't open boot at all now either.
This will be fun when I need petrol, climbing over seats into boot to open flap!
This car is gonna be way more fun than a vectra

 

[NHN]

I think its possibly a pipe thats come of as the pump is continuing on for a while cause it cant detect pressure maybe as it has a leak so of course the locks arent active, check the rear quarter passenger side which is where was for my old S3, check no pipes have popped of, if no problems there, then its gonna be some trims of & search it out I'm afraid, another option is rigging up something to simulate the pump & see if the locks work when you blow air down or suck air out, this would show you if the locks are air tight & the pump is at fault or if there is indeed a leak in the pipes so wouldnt be the pump at fault, not ideal situation but saves you taking door cards & boot trim of to check all connections.

Dont suppose you know where it started cause maybe the boot has a pipe fault on lock & its got worse over few days which maybe then made the doors fail aswell, just ideas.

Not sure if vag would report pump not obtaining proper vacuums, anyone?

 

[yellowgti]

Seriously have you fitted an aftermarket head unit? if you have the bose concert system and have fitted a new aftermarket head unit it will be the memory wire to the head unit it totally shut down my locking system untill £300 garage bills later and false diagnostics i accidently figured it out myself by pulling my jvc head unit out to put the phono plugs in for the amp fitting

hope yours is as simple as that!

 

[NHN]

Now thats a new one on me, but his hasnt really stopped working all together the pump is actually running which suggests a leak somewhere, I would say your pump probably didnt work full stop no, when you had wire connected, maybe shorted something out which was in circuit with the convenience module

 

[Shug1874]

Stereo is standard audi.
As far as I know everything on car is strictly standard. Will check the motor in boot.
Will get vag com on it on mon if I can't get it fixed tomorrow. I'm hoping its something simple!

Just checked all fuses to do with central locking and convenience stuff. 3 of them, all fine.
The motor in boot (is a tight fit. only got 3 cuts removing it!) sounds less than healthy. On locking car/pressing lock button on drivers door, it hums away for some time, but doesn't sound like it used to when things worked. Pipes appear to be attached fine. Nothing loose I can tell. I'm wondering (unless vag com says otherwise) if I might need a new motor unit?
It all started initially when the boot wouldn't open using the switches by the boot lock.

 

[Shug1874]

VAG-COM came up this:

Control Module Part Number: 8D0 862 257 E
Component and/or Version: CV-Pump, Alarm, RC D17
Software Coding: 15178
Work Shop Code: WSC 06435
9 Faults Found:
01367 - Central Locking Pump Run Time Exceeded (Likely Leak)
35-00 - -
01371 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
35-00 - Please Register/Activate
01374 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
35-00 - Please Register/Activate
01370 - Alarm triggered by Interior Monitoring
35-00 - -
01368 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
35-00 - Please Register/Activate
00991 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
28-00 - Please Register/Activate
00955 - Key 1
09-00 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed
00956 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
09-00 - Please Register/Activate
01134 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
76-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent

Ross tech wiki didn't have info on a couple. Most of them are alarm going off. That key1 (and one below is key2) is remote control not working. I did change the batteries cos they were low. Does something need done after that?
Judging by the first one, looks like it is a leak. Just gotta find it now.

 

[paul8206]

there's a bit in the manual about having to resynchronise the remote after changing the battery as i done after i changed mine.
page 17 if that helps

 

[Shug1874]

Reading the manual is the last act of a desperate man, but I'll give it a go

 

[Shug1874]

I got the boot open!
Looks like the lock hadnt been used since the car had been built and had seized/full of dried out crap.
A screwdriver and plentiful WD40, then ramming the key in with some force appears to have sorted it.
Doesn't sort the central locking problem but at least its easy to get stuff in and out of car as well as better access to the locking module.

Resynching the key didn't do much tho.
I'm suspecting the locking motor is knackered.

 

[Shug1874]

Found the other key and that disables the alarm and opens the boot remotely.
Think I found why central locking doesn't work....

 

[Shug1874]

Started taking door cards off and came across this in the passenger door:

Even tho it has a cable to operate, would this also be used as vacuum tube for the central locking?

 

[alistair666]

exactly what happend to my car. i managed to find a central locking pump in an a4 at a local scrap yard for £25. you cant swap them over as you need to get it reprogramed to work with your car. do what i did just swap the parts over that are broken in yours. you could also try your luck rebuild the pump you got from the scrap yard take it back and see if you can get your money back like i did