Rear wheel not straight?!

S3AMJ

OEM+
Joined
Apr 20, 2015
Messages
2,672
Reaction score
1,098
Points
113
Location
Oxfordshire
Hi all,

So bit of an odd one really. Driving the car around and I’ve noticed I’m getting a little squeaking/squealing noise..... sounds very similar to something caught up in a brake pad making contact with the disc. When I pressed the brake peddle it went away.

So further investigation led me to check the discs for scoring, etc. But nothing....

So I jacked the car up and checked the rotation of the wheels and weirdly my drivers side rear has masses of movement, it looks like it’s buckled?! But when I looked closer, the disc was moving in and out the same as the wheel!

So what’s happening is the wheel and disc are moving in and out catching the caliper/pad.

Is this a sigh of the wheel bearing on its way out or have I somehow managed to bend my hub?! Which would be mad being as everything else is softer metal.

No handling issues or knocking, whinning or vibrations. Just the squeak/squeal occasionally as the disc makes contact with the caliper/pad/dust cover.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Bearing in mind, I have just had my R32 rear ARB and CBAuto rear adjustable tie-bars fitted. That and running 18x9J wheels..... wondering if I attacked a corner yesterday too hard and its made my wheel bearing sh1t itself? I would have expected it to whine or make some sort of noise before making the wheel look buckled moving in and out like it is..... which is another point, the wheel will always show the worse movement compared to what's actually happening in the hub I guess.

Any thoughts are welcome, be interesting to hear if anyone else has had the same experience.

I've ordered a FAG rear wheel bearing in any case so when I take it to the garage on Thursday they'll be able to fix it there and then.

I have to give a shout out to those guys, they've fit me in at the drop of the hat on a few occasions.

MODLEN GARAGE - Banbury
 
  • Like
Reactions: yoursixx
Surely if you take the wheel off and inspect the hub properly you may be able to tell..before I done my wheel bearings on the front they made a horrible noise rears are now also starting to make noise. Have you also checked to see if everything is bolted up properly
 
More than likely a binding rear caliper and as you turn in it flexes the hub a little an squeals... mine does this when I turn in but only one direction... don't recall which off hand as not driven the car for weeks LOL

<tuffty/>
 
More than likely a binding rear caliper and as you turn in it flexes the hub a little an squeals... mine does this when I turn in but only one direction... don't recall which off hand as not driven the car for weeks LOL

<tuffty/>

Hmmmm interesting, would that mean the caliper would move as well though mate? Because when I looked at it, it was stationary and just the disc and wheel were moving in and out. Annoying either way, just started to drive the car hard like it was intended and now I have to drive it gingerly again grrrr.

I’m popping to pay Bill and the gang a visit on the 16th/17th if your about getting my car mapped again on the new meth setup.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: Asim1
Surely if you take the wheel off and inspect the hub properly you may be able to tell..before I done my wheel bearings on the front they made a horrible noise rears are now also starting to make noise. Have you also checked to see if everything is bolted up properly

Yeah checked everything is bolted up tight mate. I did just have the car tracking done by the same guys that fitted my arb and tie bars. Would be coincidence it being something they’ve done...... just got to make the 65 mile journey up the M40 safely to get them to sort it out on thursday


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Asim1
Hmmmm interesting, would that mean the caliper would move as well though mate? Because when I looked at it, it was stationary and just the disc and wheel were moving in and out. Annoying either way, just started to drive the car hard like it was intended and now I have to drive it gingerly again grrrr.

I’m popping to pay Bill and the gang a visit on the 16th/17th if your about getting my car mapped again on the new meth setup.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Arguably but the pistons stick and tend not to reset back a tad so skim the disk surface enough under cornering load to squeal

<tuffty/>
 
Arguably but the pistons stick and tend not to reset back a tad so skim the disk surface enough under cornering load to squeal

<tuffty/>

This happens driving in a straight line mate, doesn’t seem to change while turning. When the car is jacked up you can literally see the wheel looks buckled. I’m at a loss


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
...and I can pop up lunch time on one of those days...

<tuffty/>
 
  • Like
Reactions: S3AMJ
Just collected a replacement rear wheel bearing and it states it’s for front and rear? I didn’t realise they were the same? Can anyone confirm this for me please.
dbf89b2145542ecb2bffa34642f0e550.jpg

0cc776da060a30815879eca0c3c9297c.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
pretty sure all the ones I bought are the same... rears press in like the front... I haven't done mine yet as meant removing the arm if you don't have the special tool and then you have to deal with realignment etc... so one of those jobs I need to build up to lol


<tuffty/>
 
  • Like
Reactions: S3AMJ
pretty sure all the ones I bought are the same... rears press in like the front... I haven't done mine yet as meant removing the arm if you don't have the special tool and then you have to deal with realignment etc... so one of those jobs I need to build up to lol


<tuffty/>

Nice one cheers mate I know I wouldn’t be attempting to do it myself there comes a point where buying “specialist” tools to do one off jobs I have to draw a line at. That and like yourself time is always something I don’t have enough of.

At least I have the bearing incase it is that, but until they start ripping it apart. Could just be the caliper flexing like you say.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Actually... just checked back on my thread (good info in there apparently ;) ) and they are different numbers...
https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/my-minor-modding-thread.76389/page-81#post-2514315

...but... I believe the bearing itself is physically the same, the numbers are prob just down to variations in supporting hardware so a front CV bolt vs the rear CV nut etc

<tuffty/>

Ahhhh yeah that would make sense, I’ve bought a front inner cv boot that needs replacing and that is a bolt at the front, but the rear is a nut.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Well I don’t believe it..... ****** wheel spacer is shot. Swap it over to the over side and replicated the same result.

Swapped out the wheel bearings anyway for good measure. But need to find a pair of 10mm hub centric spacers ASAP.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: b2 and Asim1
Ok lesson learnt. For what ever reason you can’t seem to run 10mm spacers on the rears.... at least from what I can see. The hub flange sits 12mm proud. Which means that if you run a 10mm spacer you’ll have around 2mm worth of play. So from what I’ve researched you need to run 12mm minimum spacers on the rears.....

I’ve put the wheel back on and tightened it up in sequence so it’s as even as it can get. I’ve spun the wheel around and seems to be true. When I head to my folks place where all my cr@p is, I’ll put back on my 20mm spacers to get me by until I source a decent set of 12mm spacers.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: Asim1
I have 15mm on the back of mine... Forge do 16mm hub centrics

<tuffty/>

Now that I’ve had my tracking done, it does give me a bit more room to play with, as I intend to track the car occasionally, scrubbing is my biggest problem. 20mm were just a little too proud before, I’ll see how they look... failing that I’ll try and get some 15mm. Are yours bolt through spacers mate? Or do they bolt to the hub and the wheel bolts to the spacer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Bolt through... mine are eibach's... bought them some 12 years ago

<tuffty/>
 
Bolt through... mine are eibach's... bought them some 12 years ago

<tuffty/>

My 10mm fronts are eibachs. You can tell the difference in quality for sure. Can’t believe after all this it was the spacers. Swapped out my rear bearings for no reason


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: Asim1
Big shout out to Damian @dpmperformance for sorting me out a set of 12mm H&R+ spacers with bolts today.

487e53ebb1e6a62ee2d8cf6fff7dfe82.jpg


This is what your spacers “shouldn’t” look like...... if you see side by side, the hubcentric ring has completely snapped off. This is because you “CAN NOT” fit 10mm spacers on the rears of our cars. 12mm is the minimum. Something to bare in mind for the future
6c8f5b585ed3500da7cfd5b70f1782a3.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: Asim1
Aye, wheel spacers never a good idea more trouble than their worth. I understand they can slightly reduce over steer as the widen the rear track and reduce the centre roll, but I have never been a fan of adding chunks of metals to the hubs and using extended bolts.

Wheel spacers increase the leverage on the wheel bearing. The larger the spacer, the larger the leverage becomes. This reduces the life of the wheel bearing as they are not made to take leverage forces and can therefore wear faster, increasing rolling resistance and power loss of the car.