Rear wheel bearings

[kevsmith]

Hi, this is probably the wrong place to post but I wonder if anyone could try and help me with finding the correct rear wheel bearings for my 2009 a4 b8 avant sline quattro.
There seems to be a lot of different options for the bearings and I'm getting confused as to which one is the correct one.
Any help would be appreatiated.

 

[spartacus 68]

Autodoc is very good, just strip in your registration to detail the exact part.

Given bearings are labour intensive, you don't want to be mucking about with cheap parts. SKF or FAG is the only thing I'd fit.

 

[Paul battams]

Hi, this is probably the wrong place to post but I wonder if anyone could try and help me with finding the correct rear wheel bearings for my 2009 a4 b8 avant sline quattro.
There seems to be a lot of different options for the bearings and I'm getting confused as to which one is the correct one.
Any help would be appreatiated.

I thought the rear bearings was the same as front on a Quattro don’t quote me on that.
But ye SKF or FAG fit cheap fit twice.


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[kevsmith]

Hi, I have tried auto doc, but they come up with 2 types, one hub type and one bearing type that needs to be pressed, or I could be being really stupid and reading them wrong lol

 

[Paul battams]

Hi, I have tried auto doc, but they come up with 2 types, one hub type and one bearing type that needs to be pressed, or I could be being really stupid and reading them wrong lol

The rear bearings on my B8 are 4 bolt hubs on my 2011 A4 Quattro


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[A4B8K04]

Same wheelbearings on all four hubs, on B8 quattro. Rear ones is even harder to remove, then the front, so you need to get a mechanic, that have done it before. Factory fitted FAG failed for me, WAY to soon, so I bought SKF for the change.

 

[rum4mo]

Hi, I have tried auto doc, but they come up with 2 types, one hub type and one bearing type that needs to be pressed, or I could be being really stupid and reading them wrong lol

Just a guess, but is that choice of "bare bearing" or "bearing in hub" not just to give you the option of buying the minimum of parts required and then needing specialised tooling to change the bearing in your hubs - or buying a bigger assembly and using less specialised tooling to replace that complete assembly?

 

[spartacus68]

The bearings on Autodoc are the ones with the carrier. You'll need 4 stretch bolts - they are once-only type and a new hub nut. Getting the carrier and bearing off is just part of the job, you'll also need to separate from the hub too, which involves a hydraulic press.

Interesting video on this older thread. https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/wheel-bearing-replacement.336549/

 

[A4B8K04]

IF you buy SKF or FAG, or the most of wheelhubs, you will get new bolts in the box.

 

[kevsmith]

I am looking on auto doc but the only ones with hubs are expensive

 

[kevsmith]

The bearings themselves are cheap but been quoted over £500 for fitting which is a joke!

 

[spartacus 68]

The bearings themselves are cheap but been quoted over £500 for fitting which is a joke!

Agreed, you could buy a Sealy 10T hydraulic bench press for £250 or less and do the job yourself if you had the space.

 

[Paul battams]

The bearings themselves are cheap but been quoted over £500 for fitting which is a joke!

That does sound a bit steep more like £300 for the pair they’re not the easiest things to change.


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[kevsmith]

Would I be wrong in saying there a bolt off jobby once the caliper and disk are out the way or is there no access?

 

[spartacus 68]

Would I be wrong in saying there a bolt off jobby once the caliper and disk are out the way or is there no access?

Assuming you get the brake caliper, brake carrier, and dust shield out of the way and you've shifted the axle hub nut (you'll need breaker bar and extension), then the bearing carrier bolts can be loosened. Not done it, so not sure what access is like? Chances are the bearing carrier is seized to the hub too. You probably need a blunt cold chisel plus a soaking of PlusGas and heat to separate it.

Interesting video here separating bearing from hub with a puller. The Milwaukee makes light work of it.

 

[kevsmith]

Looking at that video plus other information it doesn't look too complicated just more of an **** ache to get to and free the parts might give it a go

 

[spartacus 68]

Remember and post up pictures afterwards, tools used and any tips. Always useful for others, thanks.

 

[A4B8K04]

Good luck with it, since veteran Audi mechanics rate it a seriously tough and complicated job. If you dont have a lift, you will not be able to do the job. And when you ask, and even don't know what the hub even looks like, you will not manage to change them.

 

[kevsmith]

It might be a seriously hard job but I'd rather attempt it first than go straight to the garage, and as for not knowing what it looks like, I haven't been able to look at the hubs ect due to the weather, I'm also fairly confident that I won't need a lift considering that a jack and stands should give access to that area but will see when I can get to them weather and time permitting

 

[A4B8K04]

You are welcome to try, just saying that you won't be able to do it. I've changed my hole enginge, and I wouldn't try to change wheelhubs. Wouldn't even consider trying to, without a lift, but anyhow. You can look, but without a lift, you will not be able to do the job. And you definitely need power tools, and air powered that is. Have been present, when my buddy who's also an Audi mechanic change my hubs, and I leave it with those that have done it, and with proper tools and lift. Two hub bolts are pretty easy to get to, but two are not...

 

[audiwaterpump]

@kevsmith kudos to you for having a go.
What mileage you got on the car?
and why do you think they need replacing, is it noise?

 

[spartacus 68]

Knew I'd seen another video somewhere. This is for a front B8 but approach will be the same for a quattro rear. Accessing some of those triple squares on the hub carrier looks like you need an long extension. Wheel can be turned on the front, so not sure about the rear, unless you release lower balljoint for access?

Anyway, enjoy. Dave Sterl knows his stuff.

 

[audiwaterpump]

Those 4 bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle, loosen them off slightly so you have a 1 mm gap, and apply the usual release sprays and drive the car for a day or so. It may help to loosen it. It probably won't put it may be worth a try, anything to make the job a bit easier.

 

[ruairi83]

I have a genuine brand new wheel bearing here for sale if your interested. PM me.

Comes brand new in box with bearing, 4 bolts, and large bolt.

 

[Boundy]

Done the front and rears on my mates car on the drive with nothing more than basic hand tools and a Chinese knockoff Makita impact gun. Not an easy job but was definitely not the hardest thing I've tackled without a lift or air tools. Changing the clutch and dual mass flywheel on a 318D was more of a challenge.

 

[spartacus68]

Done the front and rears on my mates car on the drive with nothing more than basic hand tools and a Chinese knockoff Makita impact gun. Not an easy job but was definitely not the hardest thing I've tackled without a lift or air tools. Changing the clutch and dual mass flywheel on a 318D was more of a challenge.

Good job. Got me thinking about investing in a impact gun. I follow Kevin-Albert Williams on YouTube changing clutches and flywheels in all weathers with no ramp. His Milwaulkee impact driver is by his side every step of the way. Might invest in one next year - none of us are getting any younger!

 

[audiwaterpump]

Done the front and rears on my mates car on the drive with nothing more than basic hand tools and a Chinese knockoff Makita impact gun. Not an easy job but was definitely not the hardest thing I've tackled without a lift or air tools. Changing the clutch and dual mass flywheel on a 318D was more of a challenge.

How did you release the hub/bearing/seized bits?
Any tips or tricks

 

[kevsmith]

My motor is on 151k I have a noise from the back like a model aeroplane when going over 40, I'm looking at getti g a hub and bearing set for each side.

 

[audiwaterpump]

My motor is on 151k I have a noise from the back like a model aeroplane when going over 40, I'm looking at getti g a hub and bearing set for each side.

They normally go at about 100k miles on these. On the old Audi they lasted 250k miles.
Is there much of a price difference between just getting the bearing and getting the hub and bearing already assembled?

 

[audiwaterpump]

it may help, if u can understand the lingo. (but sh-t at 15:00 on video seems to sound the same in any language lol)
Albeit, it is the front one, which has better access.

 

[spartacus68]

They normally go at about 100k miles on these. On the old Audi they lasted 250k miles.
Is there much of a price difference between just getting the bearing and getting the hub and bearing already assembled?

There's quite a price difference. Taking my own car as a guide, 2.0 TDi Quattro Allroad (177PS), then for FAG/SNR/SKF bearing it's circa £50 + postage from Autodoc. For bearing and hub assembly, then they only offer brands such as Mapco and Optimal for circa £120-137 + postage. Now you could argue that the difference between dealing with a garage to press out the old bearing and press in the new one, give or take £20. No idea about Mapco and Optimal as brands though?

A Febi Bilstein wheel hub on it's own is £73 + postage.

I just did the front wheel bearing on my daily driver (Polo 1.4 TDI), but I bought a bearing removal tool to do it though. I fitted a FAG bearing because I don't want it to to fail given the labour involved to strip everything down. This was premature as bearings go at just 4ok miles, but once the bearing was out it was rough as a badger, so needed replaced.

 

[spartacus68]

[It may help, if u can understand the lingo. (but sh-t at 15:00 on video seems to sound the same in any language lol)
Albeit, it is the front one, which has better access.

Interesting to see you can press the bearing back into the hub if you have a decent bench vice. That said - I can see this could fail. On this video, you can see there's a slight lip on the hub at 10:43 that the bearing needs to fully seat on when pressed on.

 

[kevsmith]

I have just found a set of hubs and bearings on ebay from a German manufacturer made in house charging 70 quid for the pair waiting on response as to what grade material but 24 month warranty.

 

[Boundy]

How did you release the hub/bearing/seized bits?
Any tips or tricks

Rears on a front wheel drive car are easy, hub slides straight off the stib axle.

Front involved removing the whole suspension arm as the pinch bolt was seized, so needed it on the bench to sort. After unbolting 3 hub carrier bolts, the 4th was butchered, looked like a previous replacement had reused the bolts, so needed to drill out and use a suitable diameter tube to drift it out.

 

[audiwaterpump]

I have just found a set of hubs and bearings on ebay from a German manufacturer made in house charging 70 quid for the pair waiting on response as to what grade material but 24 month warranty.

If you get a chance, then make a video or a photo write up of the job, as it may helps others on here.

 

[audiwaterpump]

would be useful to have one of these slide-hammer pullers

https://www.onbuy.com/gb/wheel-bear...gFtvZ4OMw9BdJ8Yk16xoCkJ0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[kevsmith]

Right have had a good go at cracking the triple square bolts x 4 on the back of the hub, there is no way to free them that I can find, have heated them with a torch, have used stupid amounts of release spray and have used a variety of tools on the bolts to try and crack them, I can't get an impact in there as space is near nil and attempting to put a flexi head rachet on the bolt did not release them either I'm open to suggestions, was possibly thinking about welding a nut on the the tread of the nut to have something to purchase on to crack it although this may be a stupid idea?

 

[desertstorm]

Had a look on Elsa Win and Audi dealer procedure is removal of complete rear hub. This involves removal of the driveshaft, spring and some of the locating arms . Some of the bolts undone affect toe and other suspension alignments as they have elliptical washers.

 

[kevsmith]

Tha ks for the pdf, I don't really want to take the whole lot off if I can help it lol

 

[kevsmith]

Right, update been a while as waiting for good weather that didn't come. Managed to do the back wheel bearing, changed bearing with a new hub and bearing, it is possible to do it without removing any suspension components ect space is tight but it is doable. Also ended up replacing both front wheel bearings, these are much easier process was the same but more space. This was the way I did it.
In order to do the back crack the centre Allen bolt 17mm I think crack wheel nuts, jack car up. Support car on jack stands remove wheel. Chock all other wheels! Undo two 21mm nuts on brake carrier, release handbreak. Remove carrier off of disk, tie up carrier so its out the way, put handbrake on. remove t25 bolt from disk, remove disk, undo I think 4 t25 bolds on disk shield, remove shield. Undo the centre 17mm bolt but leave it connected to the shaft. Tap bolt with rubber mallet to push shaft back.
Use a triple square socket either 10 or 12mm can't remember which. Crack off 4 bolts behind the hub, these are a real pain to crack lots of penetrating fluid and heat needed. Once out gently tap between bearing with a thin chisel to loosen it off, install new bearing and hub in reverse I may have forgot something if so il add it later. Thanks for all the help from you all.