Rear Tie Arms and Rear Diff Questions

[TDIQ]

My rear tie arm recently snapped. When it snapped it must have pulled the shaft out of the rear diff because it leaked all its fluid over the road. Fortunately the car was stationary and didn't move with the empty rear diff.

If I am going to change the rear tie bar how tricky is it? Is it pressed into the hub or is it a case of unbolting and fitting a new one or will it need to be done by a garage with a press?

As the rear diff has leaked everywhere does anyone know if the shaft will most likely go back in with a seal? I can't see the damage very well so hoping someone knows how the shafts go into the rear diff.

Thanks

 

[jojo]

Rear drive shaft should just push back in and lock in place, you will obviously need to top up the diff oil.

Snapped tie are is very easy to swop over, if you have lowering springs or adjustable tie bars, then you may need an extra pair of hands to push the hub inwards to line everything up.

 

[g60leigh]

Just make sure you tighten bushes bolts up when car is sat on its wheels.

I.e. how it sits when on the ground.

 

[JimS3]

If you still have rose joints (now revised by audi to rubber bushes) in the hub where the tie arm bolts to I would check they move freely before fitting a new arm.

Seized joint is number one reason these cars snap arms and it will quickly fatigue and snap a new tie arm if not sorted.

 

[jcs356]

Mine did exactly this when my tie bar snapped. I could have cried when I saw the pool of diff oil on the road. I got a garage to sort mine out but it did just push in and a top-up of diff oil and had no problems in the 3 and a bit years since.

 

[TDIQ]

Thanks for the replies. I'm pleased to hear it will just push back in - even with the pool of diff oil on the road. I will check if it's a rose join or a bush in the arm get it sorted.

Does anyone know if the top and bottom arms are the same part?

Many thanks

 

[JimS3]

Thanks for the replies. I'm pleased to hear it will just push back in - even with the pool of diff oil on the road. I will check if it's a rose join or a bush in the arm get it sorted.

Does anyone know if the top and bottom arms are the same part?

Many thanks

According to ETKA some cars use the same arms top and bottom (1J0 505 323 L @ £72 + VAT ish each)

But cars with special suspension with PR code 1JF on the data sticker use a different lower arm 1J0 505 323 N.

These are main dealer or TPS only. Probably best to give TPS a call with your reg, they will sort the right bits for you.

And the rose joint you are looking for is pushed into the hub not the arm, there are two in each hub for the two tie arms.
It may have already been upgraded to the rubber bushes though. But defo check before fitting a new arm.

 

[TDIQ]

According to ETKA some cars use the same arms top and bottom (1J0 505 323 L @ £72 + VAT ish each)

But cars with special suspension with PR code 1JF on the data sticker use a different lower arm 1J0 505 323 N.

These are main dealer or TPS only. Probably best to give TPS a call with your reg, they will sort the right bits for you.

And the rose joint you are looking for is pushed into the hub not the arm, there are two in each hub for the two tie arms.
It may have already been upgraded to the rubber bushes though. But defo check before fitting a new arm.

Very helpful, thanks. I don't have the 1JF suspension but I was looking at getting the lower arms with P/N 1J0505323E - are you able to tell how they differ from 1J0505323L as I don't have ETKA.

Also from this image would it be the Haldex or rear diff oil that needs topping up?

 

[Vex182]

I reckon that is rear diff, very unlikely the haldex oil will be near there, the clutch pack is about a foot forward towards the front of the car.

 

[s3dave]

^^ correct you will need Diff oil