Sportback Rear suspension knock

[Marshy]

I picked up my 2015 RS3 yesterday and can’t help notice a clunk/knock on uneven ground.
I remember there used to be a problem with rear damper top mounts.
Are these now 100% sorted?
Going to contact the dealer Monday and hopefully they’ll be helpful enough and repair this.
Cars still under warranty so surely shouldn’t be a problem.

 

[Terminator x]

Top mounts were a warranty issue so get it to Audi pronto.

TX.

Sent from my BBB100-2 using Tapatalk

 

[T-800]

Cars were done upon complaint @Marshy in the early days of the PFL there was a rear top mount revision change.

When i had the rears on my PFL done it was ok after that although 6 months later it did sound like they could be getting noisy again, Audi insisted though that was how they were meant to be and no further revision would be offered, they did however offer to replace my PFL mounts a second time............which i declined

 

[Marshy]

Thanks for the input
The knock I’m experiencing couldn’t possibly be normal so I can only assume my car has never had them.
Looking through the paperwork it only appears to have had service and 2 software updates.
No mention of them being done so fingers crossed.

 

[Marshy]

Well after some thought I’ve just ordered the new top mounts and will fit them myself.
I’m a mechanic so it made sense when the parts or only £54
The nearest Audi dealer I trust is 85 miles away.
With that in mind even 1 trip would be £40 on fuel!
They’ll be here tomorrow so I’ll fit them and seal the wheels at the same time.

 

[T-800]

Well after some thought I’ve just ordered the new top mounts and will fit them myself.
I’m a mechanic so it made sense when the parts or only £54
The nearest Audi dealer I trust is 85 miles away.
With that in mind even 1 trip would be £40 on fuel!
They’ll be here tomorrow so I’ll fit them and seal the wheels at the same time.

Probably best Kev.......

I changed rear mounts and shocks on the GTD Golf we have, it's not a painful job by any means, can't imagine the 3 being much different.

 

[Marshy]

Probably best Kev.......

I changed rear mounts and shocks on the GTD Golf we have, it's not a painful job by any means, can't imagine the 3 being much different.

Looks pretty straight forward although not sure how you remove the mag ride wire from the top of the damper to allow mount removal?

 

[Marshy]

Not wanting to risk damaging anything so look like it’ll need to be a dealer visit

 

[T-800]

Looks pretty straight forward although not sure how you remove the mag ride wire from the top of the damper to allow mount removal?

It’s just a connector Kev.....

 

[Marshy]

No Sean when you unplug it the wire goes into the top of the damper,
If it doesn’t come off it’d be a special tool to access the securing nut.

 

[Marshy]

No Sean when you unplug it the wire goes into the top of the damper,
If it doesn’t come off it’d be a special tool to access the securing nut.

Looks like this

But the damper itself looks like these

 

[T-800]

No Sean when you unplug it the wire goes into the top of the damper,
If it doesn’t come off it’d be a special tool to access the securing nut.

Here you go Kev.

 

[Marshy]

Here you go Kev.

Thanks Sean
Yeah looks like you need to remove the wires out of the connector and then have a tool that fits over to remove the nut.
It’s under warranty so think I’ll just need to let it go in.

 

[T-800]

Thanks Sean
Yeah looks like you need to remove the wires out of the connector and then have a tool that fits over to remove the nut.
It’s under warranty so think I’ll just need to let it go in.

On the Golf Kev it was straight forward as I used an Allen key to hold the Rod and a ring spanner to undo the the nut
Looking at the 3 I think it’d need a ring spanner with a cutout to accommodate the wire issue and then the counter hold tool which grips the Rod body without damaging it.

 

[Marshy]

On the Golf Kev it was straight forward as I used an Allen key to hold the Rod and a ring spanner to undo the the nut
Looking at the 3 I think it’d need a ring spanner with a cutout to accommodate the wire issue and then the counter hold tool which grips the Rod body without damaging it.

Thanks for your help
On the 3 the nut is recessed by about an inch so not the easiest to undo without damaging.
Not wanting to do any damage to my new car.