I am sorry to hear you where ripped off , but you should have checked it all worked b4 taking it away .
As for the part that is not compatiable with the Audi amp what was the point off buying said unit if you where going to have to change out amp . Maybe some more research would have saved you problems or maybe seeking out proper retrofitters would have been better . A costly lesson learnt
For this "not compatiable with the Audi amp ", everything is compatible with everything else in sound. We talk about sound here. A line input made by JBL, BOSE, ALPINE, PIONNEER, whatever builder, is the same: even Audi! The garage fix the problem for free today! So I was not ripped off at the end. Just takes more times, and nights of research to find the HEADUNIT diagram and trying to understand the meaning of how they call thing at Audi: what does (
digital signal processor) DSP EIN stand for? For them: It is remote. Even the Audi dealer here in Quebec city didn't wanted to help me sort out my problem...
I think that the difference when you change something in an Audi, it is only that instead of doing things like every other company would do and think, they, doing things "other ways, their way". Sometimes it is better, sometimes, it is not!
In this case, I would say NOT deffinetly.
The Audi speaker are really cool: they sound great for OEM (and I say for OEM). Nothing to say about this, dont think about changing that for nothing. The one that are plug directly in my PIONNEER head unit sounds great in my car right now!!! NIce output, the bass is really upfront and react quickly! But for the one that are pluged in the OEM amp, ouch, that sound like crap. No power, this amp is not even powerfull enough to follow the radio at all (and my pionneer output channel are only 50w / channel). The sound is as clear as the one in front doors, but, there is totally not enough power to take advantage of the quality of the speaker according to me.
My advice for those who have the same problem than me, don't waste your time fixing this amp problem. Bypass, send your sound signal to another amp or directly into the rear speaker, that will fix the problem instead of fixing something that will need upgrade anyway.
So, right now, I'm in the process of changing this amp... I will have to find the wire diagram of the amp (does anyone have thins in and by any chance), feed the new amp from the battery of the car, wire all the car and now enjoy what these OEM speakers can give for real...
Still, I don't have any disturbing noice coming for my rear tweater!!!