hi looking to change rear brakes tomorrow been doing some reasearch on it and come aross the the rewinding of the caliper. Do i need a tool or can it be done as easy without one also if anyone has a guide to hand would be greatfull seen a couple and a vid on youtube of a mk4 golf been done but yeah cheers
Rear pads and discs a3 stronic 170
- Thread starter PhilLUFC
- Start date
I've used a couple of tools for rewinding (manual handbrake) rear brake calipers and to be honest the one I personally found easiest was the cheap and cheerful cube £2 to £7. I hold the caliper in my left hand and cube (attached to a 3/8ths rachet in my right and keep turning. It can sometimes seem to take a while before it is obvious the caliper is rewinding and you feel a definite point when it is rewound to its maximum.
My rear discs (FWD drive car) were only 255mm and so lifted off without even having to remove the caliper bracket - happy days
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DISC-BRA...422381?hash=item2aa269162d:g:9uwAAOSw1R1an6cJ
My rear discs (FWD drive car) were only 255mm and so lifted off without even having to remove the caliper bracket - happy days
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DISC-BRA...422381?hash=item2aa269162d:g:9uwAAOSw1R1an6cJ
I got the discs and pads today there solid 255mm as well are they easy to do ive done discs before but never had to change pads prob bad practise but yeah any tips on doing them ?
^^^^^Those Cube tools ^^^^^^^^ are tricky to use and you need strong hands to use them. I have one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-B...016701&hash=item4af3e1af76:g:5ZEAAOSwFGNWRLej
I always slacken the handbrake cable before dismantling the rear brakes. From memory the calliper is held with 2 hex cap ended bolts and FFFing tight, an allen key is not good enough to remove them, use a Hex bit in a socket for leverage and soak them in penetrating fluid. When re-fitting use Loctite threadlock.
I always slacken the handbrake cable before dismantling the rear brakes. From memory the calliper is held with 2 hex cap ended bolts and FFFing tight, an allen key is not good enough to remove them, use a Hex bit in a socket for leverage and soak them in penetrating fluid. When re-fitting use Loctite threadlock.
The TRW caliper jaw is very wide and the discs relatively small, so as I said, the discs just lift off having first released the caliper and removed the small grub screw holding the disc to the hub.
Usual care needed when removing the caliper (if prising it apart) so as not to damage the piston rubber dust seal.
The usual challenges are removing the grub screw if it is rusty or too tight. Mine came out OK and I copper-greased them and put them back gently with the new discs - the screws are only lightly torqued.
Usual clean (wire brush) hub face before fitting new disc
The caliper body pushes down against springs on the rear of the pads so you have to hold it firmly in the correct position whilst replacing the rear calliper bolts - nothing particularly difficult.
My Pagid pads came with a sticky gel anti-rattle coating
These calipers are prone to seizing. One of mine was stubborn winding back and the dust cover had what looked like a screwdriver hole in the dust cover - a Unipart garage had previously put new pads in for the previous owner
So I decided to get two new calipers - they were only about £65 each
Usual care needed when removing the caliper (if prising it apart) so as not to damage the piston rubber dust seal.
The usual challenges are removing the grub screw if it is rusty or too tight. Mine came out OK and I copper-greased them and put them back gently with the new discs - the screws are only lightly torqued.
Usual clean (wire brush) hub face before fitting new disc
The caliper body pushes down against springs on the rear of the pads so you have to hold it firmly in the correct position whilst replacing the rear calliper bolts - nothing particularly difficult.
My Pagid pads came with a sticky gel anti-rattle coating
These calipers are prone to seizing. One of mine was stubborn winding back and the dust cover had what looked like a screwdriver hole in the dust cover - a Unipart garage had previously put new pads in for the previous owner
So I decided to get two new calipers - they were only about £65 eachhttps://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-brake-caliper-rewind-tool/4119r
Been looking at this prob cheap but its at a place i can nip to in morning is that the right tool confusing me when it says about right hand
Been looking at this prob cheap but its at a place i can nip to in morning is that the right tool confusing me when it says about right hand
Also i got a email from eurocar parts after i had collected the discs and pads saying i need a fitting kit which is these https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/...08c30d510dec3d919d7f82c5d2055be9353b69&000416
Do you need to replace them or can you reuse
Do you need to replace them or can you reuse
Clean up the old pad clips and re -use. The wind back tool is fine , on Audis and most cars the piston winds in clockwise on both sides of the car. Toyotas have clockwise wind back on the offside and anti clockwise on the near side.
My rear pads were code IKD and didn't use those stainless steel shims. As above I would clean and reuse unless you get another set with the pads - sometimes the case for OE or very posh brands.
Yea will just reuse then and will go get that rewind tool in morning now gotta hope weather stay find forcast dont look nice tho
Just got this, this morning come to winding piston back and the adaptor doesn't fit in the groves on the piston am i doing something wrong ??
https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/...-tools/brake-system-tools/?553773570&0&t5_390
https://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/...-tools/brake-system-tools/?553773570&0&t5_390
Yeah the plate what goes onto the caliper with the two sticky out bits they are to close together to fit onto the caliper i have managed to do it useing the tool to push the piston and used a 9” grinder spanner to twist all back together now not sure if the brake pedel feels spongy now tho you dont need to bleed the breaks do you it might just be in my head
Funnily enough lots of people use a grinder spanner for this, I did once.
The brakes won't be spongy, they'll feel springy with new pads and discs, they'll soon bed in.
The brakes won't be spongy, they'll feel springy with new pads and discs, they'll soon bed in.
