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Rear Brake Help!

dkingy11 Mar 13, 2019

  1. dkingy11

    dkingy11 A4 Allroad 2.0TDI

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    So I finally got round to taking my car in for wheel balance today to try and get rid of the rattle but didn’t get them all done (only 3) as was told the LH RR Caliper was seized (they managed to free it but chances are it will seize again) They also said this is probably the cause of the rattle. Basically said it needed a new Caliper, disc & pads. I’m assuming I need to replace both sides (I know I would for discs & pads but wasn’t sure about the Caliper?
    Also in addition to the replacement Calipers (photo 1), do I need to purchase brake support plates(photo 2)?
    Any help would be greatly appreciated. I’m hoping someone has already replaced theirs!
     

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  3. desertstorm

    desertstorm Moderator Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User TDi Audi A4 Audi Avant Owner Group quattro

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    You would only replace one caliper and pads and discs on both sides.
    Where was it seized on the pin sliders which is the bracket that holds the caliper , or the actual caliper itself in the piston or parking brake mechanism.
    I would only replace what was faulty.
     
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  4. jakm15

    jakm15 Member

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    As above do discs and pads both sides and just replace what you need caliper wise. It's normally an exchange with calipers at euro car parts etc, you take them your old one and they give you a new one at a reduced price. I'd remove the EPB motor off the old one if it's working and fit it on the new caliper if you can get a bare caliper as it will save some dosh.

    Sent from my moto e5 using Tapatalk
     
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  5. dkingy11

    dkingy11 A4 Allroad 2.0TDI

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    Thanks for your advice... my thinking was that the other 1 may not be much further behind from failure (& looking at them through the wheel they look a bit corroded) and also wasn’t sure if it would cause any pull or anything on the rear brakes. I’m going to double check with the garage today as they'd already put everything back together, then told me. Euro car parts only have the actual calipers & not the brackets. Just wasn’t sure if the come all together if buying Caliper but like you say if it was just the bracket could buy separate?
     
  6. jakm15

    jakm15 Member

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    I can't see why you would need another bracket unless it was snapped or really badly corroded. All the moving parts are on the caliper. A good clean up and grease the sliders should do the trick.

    Sent from my moto e5 using Tapatalk
     
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  7. Rich76

    Rich76 Active Member TFSI Owners Group Team Phantom Audi A4 S-line owners group

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    Yep 9 times out of ten at work when we have an issue with a Caliper it is cured with a strip down clean up and regrease
     
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  8. 666markyboy

    666markyboy Well-Known Member

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    I don't understand why having a sticky caliper would stop you having your wheel balanced ??? or why balancing your wheels would fix a rattle ?? or why a sticky caliper would cause a rattle ??? can you elaborate more on the rattle ? perhaps ive missed another thread
     
  9. jakm15

    jakm15 Member

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    That's a good point.

    Sent from my moto e5 using Tapatalk
     
  10. dkingy11

    dkingy11 A4 Allroad 2.0TDI

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    Apologies, I was meant to says vibration not rattle...And that’s what I thought about the balancing on only 3 wheels, so when I spoke with the garage again, they said the reason for only balancing 3 was that the 4th tyre needed replacing so was pointless (I must have missed him saying that). So adding to all of the brakes I now need to add a couple of tyres in the mix. I think I’m just going to get new pad, discs, callipers & tyres on the rear then it’s all done in 1 go. Cancelled my window tints for tomorrow to subsidise this repair!! Will have to wait for my tints :blue:
     
  11. Mike B

    Mike B Well-Known Member

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    Might be a bit more than is needed garages love to get brake work which may not be needed.You might only need one caliper if it wont stay free but depends on whether its the sliders or the piston.If the piston replace it but the sliders can sometimes be cleaned up or replaced.They may not have been greased properly.If its been sticking for some time then maybe the pads need changing too and the discs could have worn badly but just depends.Recently bought a Golf which had just had new pads and discs all round for the MOT but they did nothing about a sticking back caliper.It was squeeking slightly and didn't roll freely so we investigated and got another caliper on ebay for £30..No need to change the other one.My son and I like brake work cos its saves lots on garage bills.A good habit is to check that a car rolls easily on a slight slope if you think theres a problem carefully feel the wheel or close to the discs if the all feel about the same warmth then all should be well but if one gets hotter quicker investigate
     
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  13. dkingy11

    dkingy11 A4 Allroad 2.0TDI

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    I had a good look today and the pad has worn right down so that’s a set of new rear pads, the disc looks to have ‘burn’ marks (assuming from the seized brake) so that’s a new set of rear discs. The only thing I can’t comment on is the calliper. I found a set on eBay for £190 (as opposed to £250+ per side on Euro Car Parts). I am also going to buy the discs, pads, callipers & tyres myself & they have quoted £150 labour to fit the lot (apparently the callipers need to be hooked up and linked to the system as they have electronic handbrake). Also will include cleaning up of the brackets as previously mentioned in post. Please let me know if this sounds about right or are they taking the ****? I’m not really clued up on the brakes side of things.
     
  14. Mike B

    Mike B Well-Known Member

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    Depends on whether the disc is worn down but it sounds that you think the caliper has been sticking for a long time.The easiest way to check the disc is to feel the lip if its small then there should be plenty left but it can be measured to be sure.Marks aren't a problem but if you have had vibration it is probably a bit warped so new discs and pads it is . Again no need to change the other caliper unless you find its sticking too.Good to hear you are DIY some work.I am not sure about handbrake side but my son has just done his S5 with this thinks he saved £100s compared with Audi cost.I will ask him to advise.Wouldn't take much more than a hour or two for garage to do it so you are paying yourself £75 ph.Most are wary about brake work but once you get the right tools and get the hang of it you can save lots in the long term.you will need a wind back tool
     
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  15. rum4mo

    rum4mo Well-Known Member

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    I’d say that the fact that no VW Group normal service work includes any brake work, only look>see>report, has a lot to do with brakes ending up seizing on VW Group cars, non technical owners just think that when a car is in for service, everything will get looked at and cleaned up, or you will get contacted by phone for them to add in a brake service - I don’t think that it works like that, a workshop should end up being fully loaded for work each day, so any emergent work will mean another visit. If VW Group included a “wheels off” brake clean up/service at either major services or every other major service, customers needed “emergency” brake work would reduce, but it seems like most people are not willing to add that extra cost into their car’s running costs, so inconvenience and big money spending can strike if keeping a car over say 6 years old.
    Like you, I do all my own brake work so this issue is normally not a problem due to proactive brake servicing.
     
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  16. ruairi83

    ruairi83 Well-Known Member Team Sepang Audi A4 Black Edition quattro

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  17. dkingy11

    dkingy11 A4 Allroad 2.0TDI

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    Thanks for all the advice... much appreciated! I agree with the comment about regular maintenance would prevent surprise big bills. My thinking in getting the other calliper done was for an extra £80 (compared to the cheapest single price) I thought might as well get done at once.
     
  18. Mike B

    Mike B Well-Known Member

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    If the other caliper is working you will be wasting £80.No reason why it will seize just cos the other one failed.If the other pads are also well worn and the discs are lipped about the same amount it could be the seized one happened cos the piston was fully extended which makes them prone to sticking.Sometimes removal compressing and new pads and discs solves the problem.You can tell when compressing the piston back if it begins to move easily then you might save the day and avoid getting new ones and the bother of fitting them
     
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  19. dkingy11

    dkingy11 A4 Allroad 2.0TDI

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    I know what your saying about it being a waste of £80 but I’ve decided to buy the pair, get everything replaced then it’s a fresh new set on the rear. Although not sticking in the RH it looks quite corroded & maybe a clean would have sufficed but hopefully this means I can just get them done & save on labour in the long run. Also picked up some Brembo discs & pads today (better discount than normal at ECPs) & just purchased 2x new tyres (decided on Khumo Ecsta Le Sport Ku90’s as thought they have good reviews & good price). Hopefully get them fitted some point next week then can forget about it. Once again, really appreciated the feedback! Little things like this will help me make better decisions in future...:respekt:
     
  20. Mike B

    Mike B Well-Known Member

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    Hope it goes well
     
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  21. dkingy11

    dkingy11 A4 Allroad 2.0TDI

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    Finally got the Rear discs, pads, callipers & tyres changed... the vibe has gone at motorway speeds now so not sure which cured it (maybe a combo of 1 or 2 of them) but I’m happy it’s sorted, even if I am skint now!! Thanks for all your help and suggestions...
     

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