Quick question on t-cut,

emery1990

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Ive just cleaned my car thouroughly, i needs to know whether i can polish my car with t-cut colour restorer, theres fine scratches all over the place, or is this too harsh and should i just do it on the actual scratches, i needs to know as ive just clayed it to, so would like to get wax on it quickly, will probabaly be tomorow now thought got football at 6 and been cleaning since one!!!:blackrs4: my cars black if you need to know.
 
T-cut is generally quite difficult to 'work', by hand. Usually, due to it's aggressiveness, it will leave it's own marks and scratchy hazes. Try a couple of spots, but, be sure to finish up with a milder polish to clear the mess up. (megs scratchX 2.0 or Ultimate Compound?)
 
I used T cut colour restorer and worked a treat, definetely make it a rare use though, i could see the black on my polish cloth as the paint came off slightly lol
 
I had loads of black on mine, but the t-cut was black so.. Yer im not going to use it, feels dodgy plus after the 4 hour clean i couldnt be bothered, just done a very quick wax, looks well nice though, but in the petrol station i could see the swirl marks :( Tomorow going to clean behind the rims. The laquer on my wheels on some parts has come off, but my wheels have got some tar spots on them, should i bother to get these off, or would the tarring stuff, damage the laquer?
 
I used T cut colour restorer and worked a treat, definetely make it a rare use though, i could see the black on my polish cloth as the paint came off slightly lol

you wont even have got through the lacquer never mind the paint its usually just muck and polish that discolours the cloth thats why the car looks mint when polished cos you take all the ingrained muck off the lacquer.
try some t cut or g3 cutting compound on the main scratches and then g7 or g10 compound to finish you'll be well impressed
 
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Gawd, ****** me, not the dreaded T-Cut family of products! As Jim alludes to above, T-Cut abrasives are robust and don't break down at all easily, which means in most cases they inflict as many defects as they remove, and usually remove way too much paint in the process. In other words, using them is not much different to wiping your bum with sandpaper. Sure, it'll work, but it's pretty uncomfortable, quite unnecessary and will leave you feeling sore afterwards...

If you want to find out how to polish hard Audi paint properly, using modern diminishing products designed to do a great job, then check out these links to our in-depth guides...

By hand - http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/car-care-advice-faq.html#3.7

By DA machine - http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/car-care-advice-faq.html#3.10

When it comes to the wheels question posted above, the answer is if you have peeling lacquer then both acidic wheel cleaners and tar removers will make the problem worse. Best to budget for a proper refurb instead, as in such cases very little, if anything, is going to safely help...

:icon_thumright:
 
In other words, using them is not much different to wiping your bum with sandpaper. Sure, it'll work, but it's pretty uncomfortable, quite unnecessary and will leave you feeling sore afterwards...

LOL. I will quote this forever and a day.
 
I would recomend you to claybar it first before using your compound but like others have said t-cut is hard work to be honest. Megs 3 stage kit is very good for the money.
 
I would recomend you to claybar it first before using your compound but like others have said t-cut is hard work to be honest. Megs 3 stage kit is very good for the money.

Am I right in thinking that the #1 polish is a 'pure' polish though? (Ie, no abrasives?)

#2 cleaner is OK, but would certainly consider replacing their #3 wax. (about as good as a chocolate fire-guard)
 

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