Hello,
Below covers all of the preventative maintenance you should be carrying out on your Audi S3 8P. For new owners, you should be checking the paper work to see what has been done and when, as your car may require some much needed replacement parts.
Cam Follower - 06D 109 309 C
The Cam Follower should be treated as a service item as you do not want this part failing, so make sure to get it checked annually at every service or 10K (especially when remapped), it's cheap and easy to replace.
Cam Chain & Tensioner
The Cam Chain & Tensioner should be done as a precautionary measure on S3's over 50K, we've lost quite a few S3 engines in the last couple of years purely down to this and the Oil Pickup Pipe. The Cam Chain & Tensioner is fairly expensive including labour, around £450 all in and seems to be luck of the draw as some are over 100K on the original with no problems, whilst others have gone way before that. The best thing to do would be to take it to a reliable independent garage and ask them to have a look/listen to it.
Oil Pickup Pipe - 06F 115 251 A
The Oil Pickup Pipe should be done as a precautionary measure on all S3's, we've lost quite a few S3 engines in the last couple of years purely down to this and the Cam Chain & Tensioner. Using the oil and intervals mentioned further down will help prevent the Oil Pickup Pipe from clogging up, this is also a cheap & easy part to replace every 30K.
Diverter Valve - GFB DV+
Whilst the Rev D DV is the latest revision and the piston design means it is a lot less likely to eventually break when running more power, it also holds the least amount of boost. Even though the older Rev G DV diaphragm design is prone to splitting after 10/20K miles at stage 2+, it holds boost better than the Rev D and so for the sake of £40 every couple of years it is worth getting this one instead. One thing worth mentioning here is the newer 2013 revision of the GFB DV+. It uses the OEM DV housing (either Rev C, G or D) but replaces the inferior mechanisms with their own design using metal parts meaning not only does it hold more boost, but it does so for longer and without breaking. It only costs £98 and there's no need to buy a new OEM DV to go with it, so it's definitely worthwhile for such a straight forward one off replacement.
PCV - 06F 129 101 R
The old PCV system is prone to breaking due to a valve failing and letting air pass through both ways causing erratic idling. The revised PCV is another cheap & easy part to replace. Due to the TFSI engine being direct injection and with the PCV system in place, then carbon deposits build up on the inlet valves overtime which will eventually affect performance, the higher the car is tuned, then the quicker this will build up, so it's worth having a decoke done every 40K. Media/Walnut blasting is the best method of which only some garages offer this service, R-Tech are one of them (they also offer an Injector and High Pressure Fuel Pump service package with this as well if wanted).
Oil Dipstick - 06F 115 611F
The old orange version is prone to splitting/breaking, the newer yellow revision 06F 115 611F is not and only costs a tenner. ECS Tuning do a nice billet aluminium dipstick but the privilege will cost you £50..
Cam Belt and Water Pump
It's part of the service schedule but make sure that the Cam Belt and Water Pump have both been changed together around the 70K mark. The BHZ and CDL lumps both have a cam chain and cam belt, so make sure you know which have been done between the two.
Fuel Filter - 1K0 201 051 K
For some stupid reason Audi state that the fuel filter doesn't need replacing on their petrol engines when it very clearly does as they still get clogged up full of gunge. This is yet another cheap & easy part to replace every 30K.
Haldex Oil - G05 517 5A2 & Filter - 02D 598 574
These should both be replaced every 60K.
Battery - Varta Silver Car Battery E44 77Ah (577400078)
Depending on how old the battery is (3 years or older), then you'll want to replace it with a Varta Silver Car Battery E44 77Ah (577400078).
Spark Plugs
Change these annually at every service or 10K, this goes without saying.
Push Clutch To Start Bypass
Prevent excessive wear to the thrust washers/crank/block caused by the lack of lubrication between the crank and thrust washers with this low cost part, contact @george_seamons to buy one.
Oil - Millers Nanodrive CFS 5W40 NT+ Fully Synthetic Oil
5W30 oil will become too thin on remapped S3's (even stock S3's in extreme conditions) and so 5W40 oil is key and just as importantly, should be changed every 8K. Millers Nanodrive CFS 5W40 NT+ Fully Synthetic Oil is the best on the market.
Petrol - Shell V-Power Nitro+
Shell, Tesco and Costco are the only three petrol suppliers in the UK whose premium petrol has a 99ron octane rating, BP and Esso's premium petrol are only 97ron (this comes into play more if remapped). Shell's has the best additives as well so if possible use them over the other two.
Tyres - Michelin PS4/PSS
You should never skimp out on tyres in any circumstance but particularly on a performance vehicle. The most popular choices which are well recommended by several people on here including myself are the Michelin PS4 or PSS. You will not get a better all round tyre for the same price.
Four Wheel Alignment
It's worth getting your S3's alignment checked by a garage capable of doing four wheel alignment, preferably one with Hunter equipment. It's important that the operator is competent as well, avoid the likes of Kwick Fit if possible whose only goal is to get you in and out ASAP. If you've changed your alloys or altered your suspension in any way, then both of these will cause the need for an immediate alignment check.
Well respected tuners and independent garages which a lot of us can all vouch for are as follows: Storm Developments (Aldermaston), Unicorn (Stockport), R-Tech (Hinkley), AKS (Bedford), AMD Tuning (Essex), VRS (Northampton) and VRT (Slough).
Always go genuine for VAG parts, ignore anything else especially ebay knock offs as you'll regret it, there's a Parts Request function on the banner at the top where you can get in contact with a VAG parts manager who'll order them for you.
Hope this helps.
Cheers!
Below covers all of the preventative maintenance you should be carrying out on your Audi S3 8P. For new owners, you should be checking the paper work to see what has been done and when, as your car may require some much needed replacement parts.
Cam Follower - 06D 109 309 C
The Cam Follower should be treated as a service item as you do not want this part failing, so make sure to get it checked annually at every service or 10K (especially when remapped), it's cheap and easy to replace.
Cam Chain & Tensioner
The Cam Chain & Tensioner should be done as a precautionary measure on S3's over 50K, we've lost quite a few S3 engines in the last couple of years purely down to this and the Oil Pickup Pipe. The Cam Chain & Tensioner is fairly expensive including labour, around £450 all in and seems to be luck of the draw as some are over 100K on the original with no problems, whilst others have gone way before that. The best thing to do would be to take it to a reliable independent garage and ask them to have a look/listen to it.
Oil Pickup Pipe - 06F 115 251 A
The Oil Pickup Pipe should be done as a precautionary measure on all S3's, we've lost quite a few S3 engines in the last couple of years purely down to this and the Cam Chain & Tensioner. Using the oil and intervals mentioned further down will help prevent the Oil Pickup Pipe from clogging up, this is also a cheap & easy part to replace every 30K.
Diverter Valve - GFB DV+
Whilst the Rev D DV is the latest revision and the piston design means it is a lot less likely to eventually break when running more power, it also holds the least amount of boost. Even though the older Rev G DV diaphragm design is prone to splitting after 10/20K miles at stage 2+, it holds boost better than the Rev D and so for the sake of £40 every couple of years it is worth getting this one instead. One thing worth mentioning here is the newer 2013 revision of the GFB DV+. It uses the OEM DV housing (either Rev C, G or D) but replaces the inferior mechanisms with their own design using metal parts meaning not only does it hold more boost, but it does so for longer and without breaking. It only costs £98 and there's no need to buy a new OEM DV to go with it, so it's definitely worthwhile for such a straight forward one off replacement.
PCV - 06F 129 101 R
The old PCV system is prone to breaking due to a valve failing and letting air pass through both ways causing erratic idling. The revised PCV is another cheap & easy part to replace. Due to the TFSI engine being direct injection and with the PCV system in place, then carbon deposits build up on the inlet valves overtime which will eventually affect performance, the higher the car is tuned, then the quicker this will build up, so it's worth having a decoke done every 40K. Media/Walnut blasting is the best method of which only some garages offer this service, R-Tech are one of them (they also offer an Injector and High Pressure Fuel Pump service package with this as well if wanted).
Oil Dipstick - 06F 115 611F
The old orange version is prone to splitting/breaking, the newer yellow revision 06F 115 611F is not and only costs a tenner. ECS Tuning do a nice billet aluminium dipstick but the privilege will cost you £50..
Cam Belt and Water Pump
It's part of the service schedule but make sure that the Cam Belt and Water Pump have both been changed together around the 70K mark. The BHZ and CDL lumps both have a cam chain and cam belt, so make sure you know which have been done between the two.
Fuel Filter - 1K0 201 051 K
For some stupid reason Audi state that the fuel filter doesn't need replacing on their petrol engines when it very clearly does as they still get clogged up full of gunge. This is yet another cheap & easy part to replace every 30K.
Haldex Oil - G05 517 5A2 & Filter - 02D 598 574
These should both be replaced every 60K.
Battery - Varta Silver Car Battery E44 77Ah (577400078)
Depending on how old the battery is (3 years or older), then you'll want to replace it with a Varta Silver Car Battery E44 77Ah (577400078).
Spark Plugs
Change these annually at every service or 10K, this goes without saying.
Push Clutch To Start Bypass
Prevent excessive wear to the thrust washers/crank/block caused by the lack of lubrication between the crank and thrust washers with this low cost part, contact @george_seamons to buy one.
Oil - Millers Nanodrive CFS 5W40 NT+ Fully Synthetic Oil
5W30 oil will become too thin on remapped S3's (even stock S3's in extreme conditions) and so 5W40 oil is key and just as importantly, should be changed every 8K. Millers Nanodrive CFS 5W40 NT+ Fully Synthetic Oil is the best on the market.
Petrol - Shell V-Power Nitro+
Shell, Tesco and Costco are the only three petrol suppliers in the UK whose premium petrol has a 99ron octane rating, BP and Esso's premium petrol are only 97ron (this comes into play more if remapped). Shell's has the best additives as well so if possible use them over the other two.
Tyres - Michelin PS4/PSS
You should never skimp out on tyres in any circumstance but particularly on a performance vehicle. The most popular choices which are well recommended by several people on here including myself are the Michelin PS4 or PSS. You will not get a better all round tyre for the same price.
Four Wheel Alignment
It's worth getting your S3's alignment checked by a garage capable of doing four wheel alignment, preferably one with Hunter equipment. It's important that the operator is competent as well, avoid the likes of Kwick Fit if possible whose only goal is to get you in and out ASAP. If you've changed your alloys or altered your suspension in any way, then both of these will cause the need for an immediate alignment check.
Well respected tuners and independent garages which a lot of us can all vouch for are as follows: Storm Developments (Aldermaston), Unicorn (Stockport), R-Tech (Hinkley), AKS (Bedford), AMD Tuning (Essex), VRS (Northampton) and VRT (Slough).
Always go genuine for VAG parts, ignore anything else especially ebay knock offs as you'll regret it, there's a Parts Request function on the banner at the top where you can get in contact with a VAG parts manager who'll order them for you.
Hope this helps.
Cheers!
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