Preventative Maintenance Audi S3 (BHZ & CDL)

HHS3

Phantom Black S3 - R-Tech Stage 2+
Hello,

Below covers all of the preventative maintenance you should be carrying out on your Audi S3 8P. For new owners, you should be checking the paper work to see what has been done and when, as your car may require some much needed replacement parts.

Cam Follower - 06D 109 309 C

The Cam Follower should be treated as a service item as you do not want this part failing, so make sure to get it checked annually at every service or 10K (especially when remapped), it's cheap and easy to replace.

Cam Chain & Tensioner

The Cam Chain & Tensioner should be done as a precautionary measure on S3's over 50K, we've lost quite a few S3 engines in the last couple of years purely down to this and the Oil Pickup Pipe. The Cam Chain & Tensioner is fairly expensive including labour, around £450 all in and seems to be luck of the draw as some are over 100K on the original with no problems, whilst others have gone way before that. The best thing to do would be to take it to a reliable independent garage and ask them to have a look/listen to it.

Oil Pickup Pipe - 06F 115 251 A


The Oil Pickup Pipe should be done as a precautionary measure on all S3's, we've lost quite a few S3 engines in the last couple of years purely down to this and the Cam Chain & Tensioner. Using the oil and intervals mentioned further down will help prevent the Oil Pickup Pipe from clogging up, this is also a cheap & easy part to replace every 30K.

Diverter Valve - GFB DV+

Whilst the Rev D DV is the latest revision and the piston design means it is a lot less likely to eventually break when running more power, it also holds the least amount of boost. Even though the older Rev G DV diaphragm design is prone to splitting after 10/20K miles at stage 2+, it holds boost better than the Rev D and so for the sake of £40 every couple of years it is worth getting this one instead. One thing worth mentioning here is the newer 2013 revision of the GFB DV+. It uses the OEM DV housing (either Rev C, G or D) but replaces the inferior mechanisms with their own design using metal parts meaning not only does it hold more boost, but it does so for longer and without breaking. It only costs £98 and there's no need to buy a new OEM DV to go with it, so it's definitely worthwhile for such a straight forward one off replacement.

PCV - 06F 129 101 R


The old PCV system is prone to breaking due to a valve failing and letting air pass through both ways causing erratic idling. The revised PCV is another cheap & easy part to replace. Due to the TFSI engine being direct injection and with the PCV system in place, then carbon deposits build up on the inlet valves overtime which will eventually affect performance, the higher the car is tuned, then the quicker this will build up, so it's worth having a decoke done every 40K. Media/Walnut blasting is the best method of which only some garages offer this service, R-Tech are one of them (they also offer an Injector and High Pressure Fuel Pump service package with this as well if wanted).

Oil Dipstick - 06F 115 611F

The old orange version is prone to splitting/breaking, the newer yellow revision 06F 115 611F is not and only costs a tenner. ECS Tuning do a nice billet aluminium dipstick but the privilege will cost you £50..

Cam Belt and Water Pump

It's part of the service schedule but make sure that the Cam Belt and Water Pump have both been changed together around the 70K mark. The BHZ and CDL lumps both have a cam chain and cam belt, so make sure you know which have been done between the two.

Fuel Filter - 1K0 201 051 K

For some stupid reason Audi state that the fuel filter doesn't need replacing on their petrol engines when it very clearly does as they still get clogged up full of gunge. This is yet another cheap & easy part to replace every 30K.

Haldex Oil - G05 517 5A2 & Filter - 02D 598 574

These should both be replaced every 60K.

Battery - Varta Silver Car Battery E44 77Ah (577400078)

Depending on how old the battery is (3 years or older), then you'll want to replace it with a Varta Silver Car Battery E44 77Ah (577400078).

Spark Plugs

Change these annually at every service or 10K, this goes without saying.

Push Clutch To Start Bypass

Prevent excessive wear to the thrust washers/crank/block caused by the lack of lubrication between the crank and thrust washers with this low cost part, contact @george_seamons to buy one.

Oil - Millers Nanodrive CFS 5W40 NT+ Fully Synthetic Oil

5W30 oil will become too thin on remapped S3's (even stock S3's in extreme conditions) and so 5W40 oil is key and just as importantly, should be changed every 8K. Millers Nanodrive CFS 5W40 NT+ Fully Synthetic Oil is the best on the market.

Petrol - Shell V-Power Nitro+

Shell, Tesco and Costco are the only three petrol suppliers in the UK whose premium petrol has a 99ron octane rating, BP and Esso's premium petrol are only 97ron (this comes into play more if remapped). Shell's has the best additives as well so if possible use them over the other two.

Tyres - Michelin PS4/PSS

You should never skimp out on tyres in any circumstance but particularly on a performance vehicle. The most popular choices which are well recommended by several people on here including myself are the Michelin PS4 or PSS. You will not get a better all round tyre for the same price.

Four Wheel Alignment


It's worth getting your S3's alignment checked by a garage capable of doing four wheel alignment, preferably one with Hunter equipment. It's important that the operator is competent as well, avoid the likes of Kwick Fit if possible whose only goal is to get you in and out ASAP. If you've changed your alloys or altered your suspension in any way, then both of these will cause the need for an immediate alignment check.


Well respected tuners and independent garages which a lot of us can all vouch for are as follows: Storm Developments (Aldermaston), Unicorn (Stockport), R-Tech (Hinkley), AKS (Bedford), AMD Tuning (Essex), VRS (Northampton) and VRT (Slough).

Always go genuine for VAG parts, ignore anything else especially ebay knock offs as you'll regret it, there's a Parts Request function on the banner at the top where you can get in contact with a VAG parts manager who'll order them for you.

Hope this helps.

Cheers!
 
Last edited:

samuelh_888

Registered User
Great write up @HHS3,

Is there any recommendations on spark plugs?

I've see the NGK Iridium BKR7EIX and the R8 Plugs - NGK PFR7W-T 5592 both get good recommendations.
 

HHS3

Phantom Black S3 - R-Tech Stage 2+
Thanks mate!

Either of those two you have mentioned will be absolutely fine, for remapped S3's (particularly stage 2+ and above) then R-Tech recommend the BKR7EIX whilst Storm Devs are a fan of the PFR7W-T. I didn't want to go down the modifying route too much as that's a different conversation altogether haha but the stock plugs are also perfectly fine to replace with as well.
 

DJ_26

Registered User
Excellent guide, it really does cover pretty much everything an S3 owner needs to know.
 

rufscwb

Registered User
Guys,

you're sure that is the right Haldex oil code? in the audi dealership of my town they gave me the following code: G060175A2.

Whats the diference between G055175A2 and the G060175A2?

I got an S3 8P 2011.

Thank you.
 

samuelh_888

Registered User
Based on eBay G060175A2 looks like 800ml and G055175A2 is 1l.

One of the sellers say both codes are the same oil, just different coloured bottles.

700ml is required for the refill.
 

ch1z64

C'mon you's bhoy's in Green
VCDS Map User
Silver Supporter
Based on eBay G060175A2 looks like 800ml and G055175A2 is 1l.

One of the sellers say both codes are the same oil, just different coloured bottles.

700ml is required for the refill.
And it doesn't come cheap
 

rufscwb

Registered User
Regarding the haldex filter, audi personnel said the replacement is not necessary.

should I consider this information?
 

samuelh_888

Registered User
Regarding the haldex filter, audi personnel said the replacement is not necessary.

should I consider this information?

For the Gen4 Haldex Audi say this is a lifetime part which doesn't require servicing hence they don't event list a part number for this.

Most of the faults are the result of a blocked filter (more like a mesh gauze) so for piece of mind and a relatively inexpensive maintenance task it's better to get this changed.
 

ch1z64

C'mon you's bhoy's in Green
VCDS Map User
Silver Supporter
As Sam has said best get it checked and cleaned at service cause if your pump goes you will know all about it
 

SootySport

Registered User
Regarding the haldex filter, audi personnel said the replacement is not necessary.

should I consider this information?
There's been a few ASN members that have had Haldex problems and been told by Audi dealers that they don't need a filter/oil change. The members that have gone ahead and changed the so called unnecessary Filter/oil change have all found gunked up filters which caused various Haldex problems. So the message is clear, change oil and remove filter for a clean.
 

ch1z64

C'mon you's bhoy's in Green
VCDS Map User
Silver Supporter
There's been a few ASN members that have had Haldex problems and been told by Audi dealers that they don't need a filter/oil change. The members that have gone ahead and changed the so called unnecessary Filter/oil change have all found gunked up filters which caused various Haldex problems. So the message is clear, change oil and remove filter for a clean.
I recently had mine cleaned +oil change ( Gen 4 ) and it had a strainer in it which was a little dirty but reading later in the Haldex web they too ( Gen 4 ) have a filter so i need to get that looked at soon . But as you have said if they don't heed good advice what can you do .
 

AudiLeon96

Registered User
Very helpful guide although I have a question. My S3 has done around 4600 miles and as such hasn't yet required a service (although iirc a mini service had been done at 2k miles). The car sits around alot but is turned on and warmed up to temperature frequently. The car is 5 years old now with original components so what should I look at changing? From the guide I gather spark plugs but what else? Any help is greatly appreciated
 

HHS3

Phantom Black S3 - R-Tech Stage 2+
I'd personally look at changing the battery, spark plugs and some fresh oil wouldn't go a miss either buddy.
 

prt57

Registered User
I would back up the oil change suggestion. Also brake fluid should be done every 2 years as it absorbs moisture.
To keep your battery in tip top order I would recommend a CTek charger as it can be left on trickle charge all the time.
 

prt57

Registered User
Lots of us use NGK BKR7EIX but don’t buy from EBay. Too many fake plugs out there.
Use Awesome or AKS.
 

leshkin

Hold my beer...
VCDS Map User
@HHS3 Please add the HPFP O-ring seal that would need to be replaced when the cam follower is replaced. Part number is WHT005184
 

ch1z64

C'mon you's bhoy's in Green
VCDS Map User
Silver Supporter
Lots of us use NGK BKR7EIX but don’t buy from EBay. Too many fake plugs out there.
Use Awesome or AKS.
Got to mind these plugs are mostly used for mapped cars if my understanding off the earlier post ( near the top ) is right .
 

maxpayne

Registered User
So, having read this thread I ordered a cam follower, PCV valve and rev G diverter valve for our 2005 A3 2.0T on 75k miles.

Imagine my surprise when I took out the cam follower:

700d5f1e3e17a5d9c19b6bcd1507cfa9.jpg


Yes, it has some wear but apart from that as good as new. Probably would have lasted for the lifetime of the car.

Then came the turn for the PCV valve:

0befe1b520c8438e1a483bdd811eee85.jpg


Again no visible issue and to be honest never had any whistling noise from it either.

Finally the DV valve.

1eebbf9c82132908ac88eecdf3f96193.jpg


Some tearing in the bottom seal, so this was worth changing I guess but again surprisingly in good shape overall.

Morale of the story? We’re talking German engineering here. Stuff built to last. It’s definitely worth checking things out periodically but don’t expect to replace the parts every time.
 

LukeJS3

Registered User
I have an s3 8p on a 62 plate, it’s just hit 50k Miles. Mate of mine reckons I need to do the cam belt and water pump now. Is this right?
 

Daveyonthemove

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
70k miles or 5 years AFAIK.
I got mine done yesterday for peace of mind. Much cheaper than ignoring it and the belt snapping.
 

rrrs91

Registered User
I don’t think I need a stop start battery, however I need to measure it up properly as the one reccomended on here has different measurements from the one on the varta battery finder.
 
P

Peto Pedro

Guest
I don’t think I need a stop start battery, however I need to measure it up properly as the one reccomended on here has different measurements from the one on the varta battery finder.
ooh if your car has stop -start then u defo need stop start battery otherwise normal one will be gone in 3-4 months
 

RPB

Registered User
Hey all :)
So my old Orange S3 dipstick is breaking up and falling apart. I got Audi to order me one and a Yellow came that was too long and too thick as well. I have just seen this article on this thread "Oil Dipstick - 06F 115 611F

The old orange version is prone to splitting/breaking, the newer yellow revision 06F 115 611F is not and only costs a tenner. ECS Tuning do a nice billet aluminium dipstick but the privilege will cost you £50.."

However, the Yellow one was not right, so what gives here? Which part number do I actually need? When i've searched any parts database, I can only find the same part number as listed here.
 

Shady0808

Audi S3 Essex
I have a 2011 61 Plate S3, CDL engine. Bought a yellow lov and it's fine. Part number is same as you stated A06F 115 611 F
 
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RPB

Registered User
I have a 2011 61 Plate S3, CDL engine. Bought a yellow lov and it's fine. Part number is same as you stated A06F 115 611 F
Thanks @Shady0808 I now have the correct one. For some reason the wrong one was sent to start with. About right. lol.
 

Shady0808

Audi S3 Essex
No problem
 

Daveyonthemove

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Here is an excellent guide on how to check the condition of your timing chain using OBD11 and I expect this would work on VCDS too:
I'm waiting on my OBD11 port to arrive so I can try this for myself. I've not noticed any noises to suggest a problem, but at 12 years old and no history of it being changed I would be stupid not to monitor it using this guide.
 

StuartG

Registered User
Sounds like a good number to have a recorded baseline / keep an eye on if you have capability to check it.
Just fired up VCDS and block 93 showed -2 degrees on my engine (53k miles & no audible chain rattle).
 

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Shady0808

Audi S3 Essex
Just ordered my OBDeleven (OBD11). Going to try it out, though the Pro version of the app is a bit steep, £30!
 

Daveyonthemove

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
I got the Pro version last night for £21. Don't buy it through the app, go online to the OBDEleven website and order it there.

I haven't had a chance to play with mine properly yet, but I am happy with some of the available functions.
This week my car needed a new transfer box but we were struggling to remove the old one due to the rear prop shaft turning and not being able to lock it in position. OBD Eleven allowed us to activate the Haldex pump which locked the prop shaft. Unfortunately it wasn't quite strong enough to hold it solid but the ability to do things like that has really impressed me. Combined with an Impact Gun, the bolts came out and the transfer box was removed.
Looking forward to using it in more depth in the near future.
 

ch1z64

C'mon you's bhoy's in Green
VCDS Map User
Silver Supporter
Just curious on top of the 8p engine near the oil filler cap there are two pipes a large one and a small one. What is the small ones purpose
Handy if you can stick a pic up . There is a Sticky at the top which will explain where to get an app to resize image
 
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