Press Clutch to start… time for a new clutch.. clutch advice please

[dannyh]

SO I’ve got the dreaded warning message “Press clutch to start”, so now the car will only start with a very firm press of the clutch. Other than that the car drives and feels fine, no clutch slip or difficult gear changes.


I was wishfully hoping it was just a faulty switch on the master cylinder but we logged the switch on VAG com and it was functioning as it should be…. L


So from reading up on the forums it looks like my clutch is worn and it needs replacing. I’ve read a few threads on upgraded clutches and they all seem to end up with them having issues….


Has anyone upgraded the clutch from standard and fixed the “press clutch to start” issue without having any problems, and if so can you recommend the clutch you used. Thanks.

 

[IRONy_MAN]

What gearbox you have? the message is on my dash all the time as it s coming already set from factory. I don t really understand your post,did you have the message before and was erased?or? Adi

 

[dannyh]

I have a B8 S4 6speed Manual


I basically have to push the clutch past its normal rage of travel to start the car, this could be either the clutch switch or the clutch itself… unfortunately I think mine is the clutch

 

[ion2211]

I have a B8 S4 6speed Manual


I basically have to push the clutch past its normal rage of travel to start the car, this could be either the clutch switch or the clutch itself… unfortunately I think mine is the clutch

I'm not really understanding your issue either?

What do you deem to be the "normal" range of travel?

You push the clutch (the same way you would when changing gear) and push the key in. If it starts, I don't see what the issue is?

 

[dannyh]

i push the clutch until it stops moving, push the key and it doesnt do anythig to start the car just turns the ignition off again, if i then pust the pedal to the poit it feels like its bending then press the key it starts.

 

[ion2211]

Ah ok.

Definitely sounds like a clutch position sensor. It might not be broken to trigger anything on VCDS but it's probably not as "sensitive" as it should be.

I would start with replacing that first.

 

[PenttisHSR]

Clutch position sensors (3 of them) are built in to the master cylinder. (They are Hall senders).
The solution is to extend the length of the pushrod (about 1/4") in the slave cylinder.
Plenty of info here........... https://www.audizine.com/forum/show...Slave-Cylinder-Thread-(aka-Ghetto-Spacer-Fix)

 

[dannyh]

It may still be the switch in the clutch master cylinder but it was tested as working, im not sure how the clutch itself would stop the car from starting unless there is a switch in there also?


My mechanic has still recommend a new master cylinder although I don’t think it is that but I’ll get it done just to show him lol.


Has anyone upgraded there clutch with no issues and what did you go for?

 

[rum4mo]

I thought that I read "way back" that part of the clutch release mechanism needed uprating to avoid it distorting in service - which leads to this issue, also was there not someone that was building a wiring kit to inhibit the need for "foot down" before starting 6MTs?

Either way, the modified slave cylinder might be handy to have and even allow my wife, at almost 5 feet tall, to drive my S4!

Edit:- it seems like the 6C Polo with 6MT mounts the slave cylinder in the same way, but it does not need the clutch fully floored to enable engine start, maybe VW Group recognised their design error and improved things - and maybe the modified release mechanism fitted if/when needed to S4 was in reality correcting the dimensioning error in a different way to the way the modified slave cylinder does?

 

[PenttisHSR]

Still waiting for the electrical solution - way more complicated than it would seem.
ECU needs to see all the switches 1 -2 - 3 / 3 - 2 - 1 in order. They are built in to the master cylinder.
The middle switch (2) is analogue. (Hill Start / Automatic Handbrake release)

OP - Replacing the master cylinder is not an easy job and will not improve your situation.
Sometimes a pressure bleed can help, but it's all about the slave pushrod travel.
If you mash the clutch pedal too hard, the (plastic) slave can pop.

 

[ch1z64]

I don't know if this helps but we have a member who does a loom which means we can bypass the pushing of the clucth in to start the S3, and i am sure he is still around the site but off the top off my head i can't mind his members profile id

 

[rum4mo]

The trouble is, as said above, there is more to this than just a wiring harness, a bit of fooling the system in the correct sequence is needed, ie not just wiring out switch 3.

 

[ch1z64]

The trouble is, as said above, there is more to this than just a wiring harness, a bit of fooling the system in the correct sequence is needed, ie not just wiring out switch 3.

Thats a very fair comment but if he gets to the bottom off his problem and has got it fixed would the hareness i mentioned help then .

 

[PenttisHSR]

I don't know if this helps but we have a member who does a loom which means we can bypass the pushing of the clucth in to start the S3, and i am sure he is still around the site but off the top off my head i can't mind his members profile id

Would that be george_seamons ?
https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/push-clutch-to-start-bypass-harness.311556/

 

[rum4mo]

That certainly rings a bell with me, so I reckon that is where I first got wind of this!

 

[ch1z64]

Would that be george_seamons ?
https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/push-clutch-to-start-bypass-harness.311556/

that be the man , but as i said in earlier post it might not help now but i can safely say when i put the 1 on for my S3 it saves pushing in the clucth when in turns helps something which george could tell you better