Not to mention adding a left - right weight bias 
, but what's heavier rust or filler ?
, but what's heavier rust or filler ?Prawn and BigAls A3 Track Car
- Thread starter Prawn
- Start date
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2008
- Messages
- 24,836
- Reaction score
- 6,078
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Wibbleton
- Website
- www.tuffty.co.uk
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2008
- Messages
- 24,836
- Reaction score
- 6,078
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Wibbleton
- Website
- www.tuffty.co.uk
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2006
- Messages
- 12,100
- Reaction score
- 4,340
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Eastleigh
- Website
- twitter.com
Tcr
I love the tcr cars! They just look awesome.
Sadly nothing that aggressive here for the minute.
Robin arrived last night. We had dinner and a few drinks and put the world to rights.
I'm currently up with the tiny human watching Thomas and friends
Hopefully about 12 hours from now I'll have something to show!
I love the tcr cars! They just look awesome.
Sadly nothing that aggressive here for the minute.
Robin arrived last night. We had dinner and a few drinks and put the world to rights.
I'm currently up with the tiny human watching Thomas and friends
Hopefully about 12 hours from now I'll have something to show!
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2006
- Messages
- 12,100
- Reaction score
- 4,340
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Eastleigh
- Website
- twitter.com
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2008
- Messages
- 24,836
- Reaction score
- 6,078
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Wibbleton
- Website
- www.tuffty.co.uk
Car looks awesome
Hides the bubbling arches nicely! Lol.
Like I said on FB look into dive planes to finish it off
Hides the bubbling arches nicely! Lol.
Like I said on FB look into dive planes to finish it off
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2006
- Messages
- 12,100
- Reaction score
- 4,340
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Eastleigh
- Website
- twitter.com
Car looks awesome
Hides the bubbling arches nicely! Lol.
Like I said on FB look into dive planes to finish it off
You've just given away your identity Ant! All these years we've been wondering who you are, flying under the radar, and now the secret is out
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2006
- Messages
- 12,100
- Reaction score
- 4,340
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Eastleigh
- Website
- twitter.com
So!
We started on saturday morning at around 8am.
The first half hour or so was spent with pens, tape measures, and discussing the various ways we could attack this.
Knowing the cars ride height was about where I wanted it, we offered up one of the arches and drew round the outline to establish what space we had to work within.
We then stuck a strip of 25mm masking tape along this line, the bottom of which giving us the finished inner arch profile we wanted to end up with to allow enough room to still fix the arch.
Then it was chop time! This was pretty scary.
I made the first cut. We cut it about 15mm low at first just to investigate and see what we were going to find in there:
Before we went any further it was clear we needed to investigate the rust on the front edge of the arch. This has been bubbling for YEARS, but has gotten a fair bit worse in the last few years. Robin attacked it with a knot wheel to see what metal work would be left.
The answer was; not much!
Eek!
This seemed pretty awful to me, but Robin didn't seem too phased by it, and got cutting with the grinder to make it look worse!
With a substantial part of both inner and outer arch gone it was time to make up some new metal to fill the void.
A bit of CAD and a little while later a new inner piece was stitched into place:
Soon followed by a new outer piece:
This was fully welded and ground back, and even with no filler it's really not that apparent. At some point I may go back and add a tiny skim, but for now it's not required.
Then it was time to start the real job in hand.
We cut the arch line to just over 10mm below where we wanted it to end, and made up a forming tool to create a new lip on the outer skin:
Using the tool, Robin then carefully tweaked the outer skin of the quarter panel to create a 90 degree lip all the way round. This not only gives us something to weld the inner skin to, but it also adds rigidity back into the panel, and if the tyre were ever to manage to compress that far, is created a flat lip it would rub on, rather than a jagged vertical edge that could cut the tyre:
The inner skin was then dressed up to meet this lip with the hammer. they were then clamped and puddle welded through the holes:
You can see here just the first couple have been welded. Robin only welded every 3rd hole at first to reduce heat build up which could distort the panel.
Once they were all clamped and welded there were no gaps in the seam at all:
After this the edge of the seam was ground flat so there is one smooth straight edge. Robin then dressed the seam using 2 hammers to create a really nice smooth lip the whole way round.
Whilst Robin was welding it up, I got started on the front arch.
The arch was offered up, and the profile we wanted drawn on with a glass pen.
Much like the rears, I cut the arch 10mm low, and used the folding tool to create a lip on the wing. You can also see the riv nuts installed here too.
It's worth noting that this lip is as created by the tool. After these pics Robin showed me how to use 2 hammers together (1 acting as a dolly) to dress the arch and make it a much more uniform lip:
I cut the bumper down, which involved removing all the original bumper mounts at the rear edge, so whilst in there I added a quick latch bumper fixing that you can just about see here. This pic shows how much clearance there is around the front wheels now:
And here we are with the arch on:
Back to the rear and Robin had finished welding it all up, so we put a wheel on to see how much room we had created:
The arch was offered into place again, and the riv nuts drilled and fitted:
And here we have one very dusty car with 2 arches complete!
We started on saturday morning at around 8am.
The first half hour or so was spent with pens, tape measures, and discussing the various ways we could attack this.
Knowing the cars ride height was about where I wanted it, we offered up one of the arches and drew round the outline to establish what space we had to work within.
We then stuck a strip of 25mm masking tape along this line, the bottom of which giving us the finished inner arch profile we wanted to end up with to allow enough room to still fix the arch.
Then it was chop time! This was pretty scary.
I made the first cut. We cut it about 15mm low at first just to investigate and see what we were going to find in there:
Before we went any further it was clear we needed to investigate the rust on the front edge of the arch. This has been bubbling for YEARS, but has gotten a fair bit worse in the last few years. Robin attacked it with a knot wheel to see what metal work would be left.
The answer was; not much!
Eek!
This seemed pretty awful to me, but Robin didn't seem too phased by it, and got cutting with the grinder to make it look worse!
With a substantial part of both inner and outer arch gone it was time to make up some new metal to fill the void.
A bit of CAD and a little while later a new inner piece was stitched into place:
Soon followed by a new outer piece:
This was fully welded and ground back, and even with no filler it's really not that apparent. At some point I may go back and add a tiny skim, but for now it's not required.
Then it was time to start the real job in hand.
We cut the arch line to just over 10mm below where we wanted it to end, and made up a forming tool to create a new lip on the outer skin:
Using the tool, Robin then carefully tweaked the outer skin of the quarter panel to create a 90 degree lip all the way round. This not only gives us something to weld the inner skin to, but it also adds rigidity back into the panel, and if the tyre were ever to manage to compress that far, is created a flat lip it would rub on, rather than a jagged vertical edge that could cut the tyre:
The inner skin was then dressed up to meet this lip with the hammer. they were then clamped and puddle welded through the holes:
You can see here just the first couple have been welded. Robin only welded every 3rd hole at first to reduce heat build up which could distort the panel.
Once they were all clamped and welded there were no gaps in the seam at all:
After this the edge of the seam was ground flat so there is one smooth straight edge. Robin then dressed the seam using 2 hammers to create a really nice smooth lip the whole way round.
Whilst Robin was welding it up, I got started on the front arch.
The arch was offered up, and the profile we wanted drawn on with a glass pen.
Much like the rears, I cut the arch 10mm low, and used the folding tool to create a lip on the wing. You can also see the riv nuts installed here too.
It's worth noting that this lip is as created by the tool. After these pics Robin showed me how to use 2 hammers together (1 acting as a dolly) to dress the arch and make it a much more uniform lip:
I cut the bumper down, which involved removing all the original bumper mounts at the rear edge, so whilst in there I added a quick latch bumper fixing that you can just about see here. This pic shows how much clearance there is around the front wheels now:
And here we are with the arch on:
Back to the rear and Robin had finished welding it all up, so we put a wheel on to see how much room we had created:
The arch was offered into place again, and the riv nuts drilled and fitted:
And here we have one very dusty car with 2 arches complete!
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2006
- Messages
- 12,100
- Reaction score
- 4,340
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Eastleigh
- Website
- twitter.com
onto the other side, and whilst we had rust to deal with on the first side, the passengers side is the side that took the brunt of the impact at the crash in the ring in 2012.
Having not done the repair myself, I had no idea what to expect when we cut into it.
Expecting dust, robin masked up and made the first cut:
a 'not inconsiderable amount' of filler was found to be on the panel
Not a problem though! Robin ground the filler back to a height that would allow us to do the metal work, then anything else can be made good again afterwards.
The lip was formed, and the inner arch persuaded up to meet. nearly ready to weld here:
I didn't actually get any more pics, as this is basically a repeat of the first side, but slightly less pretty due to the filler step!
We finished the arches at around 1830 saturday night and headed in for a chinese! Feeling very happy with ourselves.
Being old, with small Human, my body clock has shifted somewhat from where it once was, so come about 9pm I was shattered and ready for bed whilst Robin was still wide awake. Robin decided to make best use of his time and headed home around 10pm to give himself a full day for his own stuff on Sunday.
I had a good nights sleep (for a rare change!) and on Sunday morning I sneaked back out when Oliver went for his first nap!
I offered up the rear bumper guides and cut them down to the new shape:
I then offered the bumper on and marked it up for trimming. You can see here how much we've taken out the whole way round (lots of crap on the quarter here, and needs flatting back too)
I also finished painting the arches which I'd started whilst Robin was welding on saturday.
I started taking pics of this, then got carried away with the work and totally forgot!
The inside of the arch was all wire brushed then degreased, before it got 2 coats of acid etch primer to inside and outside of the arch:
Then I gave that 3 thick coats of rubberised spray on stone chip on the inside, and 3 coats of volcano black on the top side as well as lacquer.
So with the bumper trimmed and on, the arches bolted on, and the XXR wheels on all round, it was time to roll it back out of the garage and throw a hose pipe over it so I could stand back and see what we had created!
I'm not going to lie, I am VERY happy with how that's come out!
I absolutely cannot thank @RobinJI enough for his help on Saturday. it was a really nice chance to just have a good old catch up, he hadn't seen Oliver in a while, and we worked well together and things just got done quickly!
So often you start out with a target for a days work, and so so often you run into issues and don't get as far as you'd hoped.
I am so grateful to Robin for driving 2 hours each way to come and help and giving up his time. I think Victoria is grateful too because this would have taken me WEEKS and not been anywhere near this standard either
I can't wait to get this out on track now and see how it feels!
Just need more wheels! I'm still waiting on 2 sets of 10j Team dynamics that I ordered in January!
Having not done the repair myself, I had no idea what to expect when we cut into it.
Expecting dust, robin masked up and made the first cut:
a 'not inconsiderable amount' of filler was found to be on the panel
Not a problem though! Robin ground the filler back to a height that would allow us to do the metal work, then anything else can be made good again afterwards.
The lip was formed, and the inner arch persuaded up to meet. nearly ready to weld here:
I didn't actually get any more pics, as this is basically a repeat of the first side, but slightly less pretty due to the filler step!
We finished the arches at around 1830 saturday night and headed in for a chinese! Feeling very happy with ourselves.
Being old, with small Human, my body clock has shifted somewhat from where it once was, so come about 9pm I was shattered and ready for bed whilst Robin was still wide awake. Robin decided to make best use of his time and headed home around 10pm to give himself a full day for his own stuff on Sunday.
I had a good nights sleep (for a rare change!) and on Sunday morning I sneaked back out when Oliver went for his first nap!
I offered up the rear bumper guides and cut them down to the new shape:
I then offered the bumper on and marked it up for trimming. You can see here how much we've taken out the whole way round (lots of crap on the quarter here, and needs flatting back too)
I also finished painting the arches which I'd started whilst Robin was welding on saturday.
I started taking pics of this, then got carried away with the work and totally forgot!
The inside of the arch was all wire brushed then degreased, before it got 2 coats of acid etch primer to inside and outside of the arch:
Then I gave that 3 thick coats of rubberised spray on stone chip on the inside, and 3 coats of volcano black on the top side as well as lacquer.
So with the bumper trimmed and on, the arches bolted on, and the XXR wheels on all round, it was time to roll it back out of the garage and throw a hose pipe over it so I could stand back and see what we had created!
I'm not going to lie, I am VERY happy with how that's come out!
I absolutely cannot thank @RobinJI enough for his help on Saturday. it was a really nice chance to just have a good old catch up, he hadn't seen Oliver in a while, and we worked well together and things just got done quickly!
So often you start out with a target for a days work, and so so often you run into issues and don't get as far as you'd hoped.
I am so grateful to Robin for driving 2 hours each way to come and help and giving up his time. I think Victoria is grateful too because this would have taken me WEEKS and not been anywhere near this standard either
I can't wait to get this out on track now and see how it feels!
Just need more wheels! I'm still waiting on 2 sets of 10j Team dynamics that I ordered in January!
Last edited:
- Joined
- May 28, 2004
- Messages
- 10,217
- Reaction score
- 2,385
- Points
- 113
- Location
- nr Glos
- Website
- www.badger5.co.uk
robin, you have some skills there fella. nice one.
prawny, the leading edge of the rears, far enough from the tyre on full load?
It looks pretty epic now.
I'd better watch out at ADi
prawny, the leading edge of the rears, far enough from the tyre on full load?
It looks pretty epic now.
I'd better watch out at ADi
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2012
- Messages
- 514
- Reaction score
- 323
- Points
- 63
Top work team, looks properly cool in final form!
a 'not inconsiderable amount' of filler was found to be on the panel
I'm slightly convinced that's just a bit of plasterboard...
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2006
- Messages
- 12,100
- Reaction score
- 4,340
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Eastleigh
- Website
- twitter.com
He's got some real skills with metal working that's for sure!
With regards to travel, we tried to be as scientific as possible, without just cutting away LOADS of bodywork unnecessarily.
As it stands, it's currently got just over 65mm of travel before anything will touch at the rear. In terms of static weight that would require an extra 1300kg in the boot before it got that low, or 3x the static wheel weight on each rear wheel to make it touch.
We tried looking at loads of pics of the car on track previously to see how much things were compressing. It certainly didn't have 65mm free space before, and it didn't rub, so on that basis I'm hopeful that this won't rub at all.
With regards the over arches, it's kind of hard to see, but just around that leading edge on the rears the arches bulge out quite a lot. Around the 'SPO' of 'SPORTMAX' on the rear tyre in the pics above the rear arch is probably 15mm beyond the tyre, so plenty of room for it to move up into.
I still reckon I'll find something rubs somewhere at the front end when I get to drive it, but we've set the arches low for now, so I've got scope to raise them all 10mm or more if needed.
I'm REALLY looking forward to getting this out at ADI with you @badger5. Hopefully we can have a repeat of our 2013 session
Vex182
1x S3 and 3x Fiestas.
onto the other side, and whilst we had rust to deal with on the first side, the passengers side is the side that took the brunt of the impact at the crash in the ring in 2012.
Having not done the repair myself, I had no idea what to expect when we cut into it.
Expecting dust, robin masked up and made the first cut:
a 'not inconsiderable amount' of filler was found to be on the panel
Not a problem though! Robin ground the filler back to a height that would allow us to do the metal work, then anything else can be made good again afterwards.
The lip was formed, and the inner arch persuaded up to meet. nearly ready to weld here:
I didn't actually get any more pics, as this is basically a repeat of the first side, but slightly less pretty due to the filler step!
We finished the arches at around 1830 saturday night and headed in for a chinese! Feeling very happy with ourselves.
Being old, with small Human, my body clock has shifted somewhat from where it once was, so come about 9pm I was shattered and ready for bed whilst Robin was still wide awake. Robin decided to make best use of his time and headed home around 10pm to give himself a full day for his own stuff on Sunday.
I had a good nights sleep (for a rare change!) and on Sunday morning I sneaked back out when Oliver went for his first nap!
I offered up the rear bumper guides and cut them down to the new shape:
I then offered the bumper on and marked it up for trimming. You can see here how much we've taken out the whole way round (lots of **** on the quarter here, and needs flatting back too)
I also finished painting the arches which I'd started whilst Robin was welding on saturday.
I started taking pics of this, then got carried away with the work and totally forgot!
The inside of the arch was all wire brushed then degreased, before it got 2 coats of acid etch primer to inside and outside of the arch:
Then I gave that 3 thick coats of rubberised spray on stone chip on the inside, and 3 coats of volcano black on the top side as well as lacquer.
So with the bumper trimmed and on, the arches bolted on, and the XXR wheels on all round, it was time to roll it back out of the garage and throw a hose pipe over it so I could stand back and see what we had created!
I'm not going to lie, I am VERY happy with how that's come out!
I absolutely cannot thank @RobinJI enough for his help on Saturday. it was a really nice chance to just have a good old catch up, he hadn't seen Oliver in a while, and we worked well together and things just got done quickly!
So often you start out with a target for a days work, and so so often you run into issues and don't get as far as you'd hoped.
I am so grateful to Robin for driving 2 hours each way to come and help and giving up his time. I think Victoria is grateful too because this would have taken me WEEKS and not been anywhere near this standard either
I can't wait to get this out on track now and see how it feels!
Just need more wheels! I'm still waiting on 2 sets of 10j Team dynamics that I ordered in January!
That looks so awesome! Are they S3 wings or the original 200k A3 wings?
Its surpringly nicely aesthetic considering it was done in a dusty garage with a rusty shell, a grinder, welder and no fzuks given 
I was expecting it to look jacked up on big wheels but it all flows together, top job!!!!
I was expecting it to look jacked up on big wheels but it all flows together, top job!!!!
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2015
- Messages
- 3,565
- Reaction score
- 770
- Points
- 113
looks good prawn, I only saw one photo because you use something that normal internet doesn't allow - it takes about 5 minutes to get one photo to show up.
also audi-sport.net doesn't appear to be safe either? what is life.
can't you get a window sticker saying something like "If you can read this then I am broken down... byyyyeeeee....."
also audi-sport.net doesn't appear to be safe either? what is life.
can't you get a window sticker saying something like "If you can read this then I am broken down... byyyyeeeee....."
Dubster5
Registered User
Any plans to make the front arch into 2 pieces?
Having to drill rivets out to get the bumper off could be annoying not that it should need to come off often..... but mega modified car that sees the track might need improvised short term fixes
Having to drill rivets out to get the bumper off could be annoying not that it should need to come off often..... but mega modified car that sees the track might need improvised short term fixes
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2008
- Messages
- 24,836
- Reaction score
- 6,078
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Wibbleton
- Website
- www.tuffty.co.uk
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2006
- Messages
- 12,100
- Reaction score
- 4,340
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Eastleigh
- Website
- twitter.com
As Tuffty said, they're on with Riv nuts. I think I mentioned them in the write up too
M5 stainless rivnuts into the shell. then the arches are held on with black stainless countersunk bolts sat in black stainless 11mm cup washers to spread the load.
There are 2 screws in the front bumper on each side, and 1 screw on the rear bumper.
Because the return lip on the front bumper is now totally gone, I can undo the bolts in the arch and just slide the bumper off forwards without touching the rest of the arch
I've replaced the original bumper fixings with a quick latch on each side, so it really is very quick to remove still.
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2006
- Messages
- 12,100
- Reaction score
- 4,340
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Eastleigh
- Website
- twitter.com
Epic work gents!
Gotta add this new form to your evolutions picture now
Just for you, had to use Paint because silly Layout App wasnt playing ball!
How's this for a #TransformationTuesday ?
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2006
- Messages
- 12,100
- Reaction score
- 4,340
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Eastleigh
- Website
- twitter.com
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2006
- Messages
- 12,100
- Reaction score
- 4,340
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Eastleigh
- Website
- twitter.com
OK, Wheel opinions required!
January 18th we ordered 2 sets of 10j Pro Race 1.3 wheels, and frankly, I'm sick of waiting!
The XXR were bought as a stand in, but now that the arches are done, 1 only have 1 set of wheels for the car. ideally we need road tyres and slicks, so another set of required.
Opinions needed on the following!
Japan Racing JR5:
18x9.5 ET22. These will fit and clear the strut with no spacers, but being ET22 the 265 slicks MAY touch the strut. The slicks are VERY close at et20 on the 9.75xxr, so these may still require a 5mm slip on front spacer. 9.5 isn't so ideal for the 265 slick, but it's still not going to sit badly. Just not quite AS optimised as the 10j.
They'd also sit 13mm further in board than a 10j ET15, so may look a little weak, although there are potential gains to be had in scrub radius with these. Could always use small spacers to get them sitting right IF it needed it.
OR
Japan racing JR3:
These are 18x10, ET25. So ideal width for the 265 slicks. Offset is 10mm too high but I could run 10mm spacers all round happily and be at exactly the same spec as the TD's I originally ordered. I'm not fussed about having to run spacers so not seeing that as a big negative.
Prices and availability are very similar for each.
What do we think people?
January 18th we ordered 2 sets of 10j Pro Race 1.3 wheels, and frankly, I'm sick of waiting!
The XXR were bought as a stand in, but now that the arches are done, 1 only have 1 set of wheels for the car. ideally we need road tyres and slicks, so another set of required.
Opinions needed on the following!
Japan Racing JR5:
18x9.5 ET22. These will fit and clear the strut with no spacers, but being ET22 the 265 slicks MAY touch the strut. The slicks are VERY close at et20 on the 9.75xxr, so these may still require a 5mm slip on front spacer. 9.5 isn't so ideal for the 265 slick, but it's still not going to sit badly. Just not quite AS optimised as the 10j.
They'd also sit 13mm further in board than a 10j ET15, so may look a little weak, although there are potential gains to be had in scrub radius with these. Could always use small spacers to get them sitting right IF it needed it.
OR
Japan racing JR3:
These are 18x10, ET25. So ideal width for the 265 slicks. Offset is 10mm too high but I could run 10mm spacers all round happily and be at exactly the same spec as the TD's I originally ordered. I'm not fussed about having to run spacers so not seeing that as a big negative.
Prices and availability are very similar for each.
What do we think people?
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2008
- Messages
- 24,836
- Reaction score
- 6,078
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Wibbleton
- Website
- www.tuffty.co.uk
I like the top ones and you can get them custom centre bore and pcd so you not got multi stud which looks better
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2006
- Messages
- 12,100
- Reaction score
- 4,340
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Eastleigh
- Website
- twitter.com
What do you mean exactly Ant? I'm pretty sure the spokes are entirely inboard of the rim on both options.
From the picture angle I presumed the JR3 spokes were exposed at the curved section.
Not that we should envision hitting curbs sideways and smashing rims in half but it does happen. If the spokes are not exposed at least you have a chance of limping the car to a safer spot if needed.
Not that we should envision hitting curbs sideways and smashing rims in half but it does happen. If the spokes are not exposed at least you have a chance of limping the car to a safer spot if needed.
- Joined
- Dec 8, 2006
- Messages
- 12,100
- Reaction score
- 4,340
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Eastleigh
- Website
- twitter.com
WEll ****** me
Justin at Rimstock reckons they now have castings and they will be made in around 2 weeks time.
I won't hold my breath just yet, but I think we'll hold off ordering any cheap reps for now!
Justin at Rimstock reckons they now have castings and they will be made in around 2 weeks time.
I won't hold my breath just yet, but I think we'll hold off ordering any cheap reps for now!
RobinJI
Registered User
Thanks for the kind words Nick/others. It was a fun day and really satisfying that we managed to get things done on time and to a standard we were both happy with. Always good to have an excuse to catch up too!
Just as a random point Nick, while you're (quite sensibly) completely happy running spacers as long as they're done properly, I'm pretty sure the MSA blue book does limit the amount of spacing allowed, I think it's 3mm max. Not relevant to you right now but should you decide to go racing it would be nice not to have one less thing to change to get a logbook on the car!
With any luck you can get the Team Dynamics soon and have exactly what you're after.
Just as a random point Nick, while you're (quite sensibly) completely happy running spacers as long as they're done properly, I'm pretty sure the MSA blue book does limit the amount of spacing allowed, I think it's 3mm max. Not relevant to you right now but should you decide to go racing it would be nice not to have one less thing to change to get a logbook on the car!
With any luck you can get the Team Dynamics soon and have exactly what you're after.
