Please help me guys :(

Zman6000

Registered User
2001 Audi TT bam engine, 75k full service history it’s had, cambelt, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, pollen filter, full engine flush, fresh oil and filter so now to the problem and it’s a right pain :( when I go to accelerate 9-10 it’s like it’s holding back boost will build but the car won’t go anywhere the engine doesn’t seem to be misfiring at all and it drives perfect on partial throttle? Can anyone shed some light onto this I would really appreciate it? I can help out on mots etc if anyone needs them cheers
 

Retroman

Audi A3 2010 Sportback 2.0 TDI 170 (CBBB engine)
Purely an internet guess based on what you have had done. Partial throttle = OK, Full throttle= problem. I would check that the fuel filter has been fitted the right way around - they are directional & mistakes can happen with a momentary lapse of concentration AND I would double check the spark plugs e.g. a) Are they the correct ones for your car and b) did the mechanic get interrupted (phone call etc) and leave one loose i.e. are they tightened up correctly?
 

NHN

Retrofitter - Audi - VW - Skoda - Seat
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Is the turbo getting the air, as the 8L shared the same setups, the intake pipe used to collapse a bit, hence forge making a better one, as said internet diagnosing isn't the best of help at times, really need to check on a ramp to make sure its sealed also as smoke machines are scarce.
 

Zman6000

Registered User
Purely an internet guess based on what you have had done. Partial throttle = OK, Full throttle= problem. I would check that the fuel filter has been fitted the right way around - they are directional & mistakes can happen with a momentary lapse of concentration AND I would double check the spark plugs e.g. a) Are they the correct ones for your car and b) did the mechanic get interrupted (phone call etc) and leave one loose i.e. are they tightened up correctly?
All checked and are good matey
 

Zman6000

Registered User
Is the turbo getting the air, as the 8L shared the same setups, the intake pipe used to collapse a bit, hence forge making a better one, as said internet diagnosing isn't the best of help at times, really need to check on a ramp to make sure its sealed also as smoke machines are scarce.
Yeah smoke machines are expensive here too :( seems to be ok for first few mins then seems to do it once warm? Anyone near stafford? Alternator has packed up aswel killing me this car is
 

desertstorm

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Hi, Looking through your posts you seem to be having a few issues with this. I have a 2001 BAM TT that I am turning into a track car. I have had some issues with it such as a duff EGT , various leaks in the intake side apart from all the other various electrical / mechanical issues. But it is a 15 year old car, fortunately I like taking cars apart and fixing them :) .
I am only down the road in Heath Hayes if you want to pop over I can do some logging, I use Nefmoto and do some checks with VCDS.
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/mk1-tt-225-track-day-car.319422/
 

Zman6000

Registered User
Hi, Looking through your posts you seem to be having a few issues with this. I have a 2001 BAM TT that I am turning into a track car. I have had some issues with it such as a duff EGT , various leaks in the intake side apart from all the other various electrical / mechanical issues. But it is a 15 year old car, fortunately I like taking cars apart and fixing them :) .
I am only down the road in Heath Hayes if you want to pop over I can do some logging, I use Nefmoto and do some checks with VCDS.
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/mk1-tt-225-track-day-car.319422/
Thanks buddy gonna fit an alternator today to see if it charges so I can drive it then I’ll be in touch many thanks my friend :)
 

Zman6000

Registered User
Hi, Looking through your posts you seem to be having a few issues with this. I have a 2001 BAM TT that I am turning into a track car. I have had some issues with it such as a duff EGT , various leaks in the intake side apart from all the other various electrical / mechanical issues. But it is a 15 year old car, fortunately I like taking cars apart and fixing them :) .
I am only down the road in Heath Hayes if you want to pop over I can do some logging, I use Nefmoto and do some checks with VCDS.
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/mk1-tt-225-track-day-car.319422/
Alternator fitted charging ok now so when are you free to have a quick look over and diag it? :) I’ll have to arrange a day off work :(
 

Zman6000

Registered User
Cars running well now, only thing I have left to sort is the temp gauge keeps going past 90? Doesn’t go into the red but still not happy with it unless it’s meant to do that?
Cars had pretty much everything changed, coolant temp sensor, cambelt, water pump, thermostat etc the fan comes on after a short drive of a couple of miles, I do give it abit of stick here and there but nothing excessive at the mo? If anyone cares to weigh in that would be great.....
 

Zman6000

Registered User
Is the turbo getting the air, as the 8L shared the same setups, the intake pipe used to collapse a bit, hence forge making a better one, as said internet diagnosing isn't the best of help at times, really need to check on a ramp to make sure its sealed also as smoke machines are scarce.
Right had everything changed now lol, smoke tested, checked pretty much everything, no faults codes, no steam no nothing, just a temp gauge that goes above 90 then fan kicks in? No probs no smoke no nothing just want to know if anyone knows anything about these gauges and can shed some light onto it?
 

Zman6000

Registered User
Look at the 49c value when you are driving the car. This is the engine temp, should normally settle around 88-90 degrees. Who changed the thermostat?. Was it fitted correctly and was it a proper OE part.
The thermostat wasn’t genuine buddy but it was doing it before hand? I fitted it, been a mechanic for over 15 years just never had an Audi until about 2 years ago....
It’s had everything but I’ll try this heater trick/tip to see what it comes up with. Seen your track car post/s awesome progression dude
 

desertstorm

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VCDS Map User
Has the coolant always been kept a nice pinky red color. is there any corrosion in the system?. overheating can be caused by poor flow due to such things as the water pump impellor splitting or thermostat sticking. As you have changed these lets discount them. The coolant sensors do play up but they usually go intermittent and the temp gauge reads low. Blockages in the system caused by silting, air locks or pipes being kinked will limit flow and cause overheating.
If it's not loosing water then doesn't sound like a head gasket issue.
If it's running lean then it will run hotter. Possibly the fuel pump is past it's best. They do fail at around this age / mileage. You should be able to see that by looking at specified / actual Lambda.
 

Zman6000

Registered User
Has the coolant always been kept a nice pinky red color. is there any corrosion in the system?. overheating can be caused by poor flow due to such things as the water pump impellor splitting or thermostat sticking. As you have changed these lets discount them. The coolant sensors do play up but they usually go intermittent and the temp gauge reads low. Blockages in the system caused by silting, air locks or pipes being kinked will limit flow and cause overheating.
If it's not loosing water then doesn't sound like a head gasket issue.
If it's running lean then it will run hotter. Possibly the fuel pump is past it's best. They do fail at around this age / mileage. You should be able to see that by looking at specified / actual Lambda.
I’ll put it on the emissions machine tomorrow, it doesn’t feel down on power anymore? Heaters are nice and hot, no loss of coolant and yes the coolant is lovely and pink? Full service history and 75k it’s on now? Coolant temp sensor changed aswel brother
 

Zman6000

Registered User
Has the coolant always been kept a nice pinky red color. is there any corrosion in the system?. overheating can be caused by poor flow due to such things as the water pump impellor splitting or thermostat sticking. As you have changed these lets discount them. The coolant sensors do play up but they usually go intermittent and the temp gauge reads low. Blockages in the system caused by silting, air locks or pipes being kinked will limit flow and cause overheating.
If it's not loosing water then doesn't sound like a head gasket issue.
If it's running lean then it will run hotter. Possibly the fuel pump is past it's best. They do fail at around this age / mileage. You should be able to see that by looking at specified / actual Lambda.
My diagnostic equipment is a little less than desirable to read figures etc it really struggles but works on any other car :(
 

Zman6000

Registered User
Has the coolant always been kept a nice pinky red color. is there any corrosion in the system?. overheating can be caused by poor flow due to such things as the water pump impellor splitting or thermostat sticking. As you have changed these lets discount them. The coolant sensors do play up but they usually go intermittent and the temp gauge reads low. Blockages in the system caused by silting, air locks or pipes being kinked will limit flow and cause overheating.
If it's not loosing water then doesn't sound like a head gasket issue.
If it's running lean then it will run hotter. Possibly the fuel pump is past it's best. They do fail at around this age / mileage. You should be able to see that by looking at specified / actual Lambda.
Emissions are perfect my friend? Gauge matches blower readout but I haven’t had it hot for a while so may check when the gauge actually goes over 90 again....
 

Zman6000

Registered User
Has the coolant always been kept a nice pinky red color. is there any corrosion in the system?. overheating can be caused by poor flow due to such things as the water pump impellor splitting or thermostat sticking. As you have changed these lets discount them. The coolant sensors do play up but they usually go intermittent and the temp gauge reads low. Blockages in the system caused by silting, air locks or pipes being kinked will limit flow and cause overheating.
If it's not loosing water then doesn't sound like a head gasket issue.
If it's running lean then it will run hotter. Possibly the fuel pump is past it's best. They do fail at around this age / mileage. You should be able to see that by looking at specified / actual Lambda.
So took it for a long drive temp gauge perfect give it some stick got the gauge to over 90 checked with heaters codes 49 and 51 one stayed at 90 and the other went to 97? Any ideas? No steam, no loss of coolant, emissions perfect, no misfires......
 
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