Pictures of my damaged engine
- Thread starter S3_MCD
- Start date
Had a call from my dealer this morning, they have over the last couple of days been talking with Audi UK technical. Conversations were on the topic of rebuild vs replacement.
Long and short it has been agreed that the best and cheapest scenario will be to replace the engine.
FOR FREE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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..... my contribution (to the dealer), the cost of a cambelt replacement.
This is the result that i was pushing for, but a BIG thanks to the efforts on my behalf to Swindon Audi, Jason, Dean and the rest of the guys.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bravo.gif
They are ordering up the engine today, so thats gotta be about 5 wks before i get my car back, but the loaner that they have (2.4 A6) will keep me going.
Whilst its out gonna get the clutch replaced.
Any suggestions on what else .... hoses etc.
Long and short it has been agreed that the best and cheapest scenario will be to replace the engine.
FOR FREE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/groovy.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/groovy.gif : /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/dancing.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/groovy.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/groovy.gif
..... my contribution (to the dealer), the cost of a cambelt replacement.
This is the result that i was pushing for, but a BIG thanks to the efforts on my behalf to Swindon Audi, Jason, Dean and the rest of the guys.
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/bravo.gif
They are ordering up the engine today, so thats gotta be about 5 wks before i get my car back, but the loaner that they have (2.4 A6) will keep me going.
Whilst its out gonna get the clutch replaced.
Any suggestions on what else .... hoses etc.
Does the new engine include a new turbo? if not ask them to check the turbo before they rebuild your car as it may end up saving them a LOT of time.
Well done on getting a result and this is the only reason I wished I'd stayed at Audi however as I haddn't stuck with one dealer (couldn't due to work) and I don't think I would have got the same support from the dealer and from my conversations with Audi UK and Germany they didn't seem interested in helping me at all and my engine only had 63,000miles and FASH was a bit older though I think.
PS... ask them about a warranty because I know if you buy a new complete engine from Audi it comes with a 3yr 60,000m warranty.
Well done on getting a result and this is the only reason I wished I'd stayed at Audi however as I haddn't stuck with one dealer (couldn't due to work) and I don't think I would have got the same support from the dealer and from my conversations with Audi UK and Germany they didn't seem interested in helping me at all and my engine only had 63,000miles and FASH was a bit older though I think.
PS... ask them about a warranty because I know if you buy a new complete engine from Audi it comes with a 3yr 60,000m warranty.
Good result, got to be a weight off your shoulders knowing someone else is picking up the bill, patience pays. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Nice darts, glad to hear you got it sorted out. Damn fine work!!
Whilst it's out have a look at the clutch and flywheel to make sure all is in order.
I believe you will only have a years warranty on the workmanship and 2 years on the parts.
Whilst it's out have a look at the clutch and flywheel to make sure all is in order.
I believe you will only have a years warranty on the workmanship and 2 years on the parts.
tonedef
Registered User
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And of course if it doesn't include a new turbo, I think I'd be having them send it to a specialist turbo company for rebuild rather than having the dealer rebuild it. Even if you have to stump for that one yourself it would be well worth it.
As I'm new to Audis I've not yet had dealings with the turbos but while I was working in motorsport we used to have Evo ones done at Owen Developments. Lee Owen is really helpful and they do a top job.
And of course if it doesn't include a new turbo, I think I'd be having them send it to a specialist turbo company for rebuild rather than having the dealer rebuild it. Even if you have to stump for that one yourself it would be well worth it.
As I'm new to Audis I've not yet had dealings with the turbos but while I was working in motorsport we used to have Evo ones done at Owen Developments. Lee Owen is really helpful and they do a top job.
Excellent news MCD!
The other thing you might want to consider replacing is the water pump as these have a tendency to go at 60-80k and for about £25 it seems daft not to. I'll be getting a dealer to do mine along with the cambelt and tensioners when/if mine ever gets resolved.
meanwhile - congratulations!
The other thing you might want to consider replacing is the water pump as these have a tendency to go at 60-80k and for about £25 it seems daft not to. I'll be getting a dealer to do mine along with the cambelt and tensioners when/if mine ever gets resolved.
meanwhile - congratulations!
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If he's getting a whole new engine, I would expect a new water pump as part of that? No?
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Dealer reckons so .... either way, its a given that I will be putting a new one in. Getting them to fully check the turbo, and paying for a new clutch
Wondering whether to do Samco hoses?
If he's getting a whole new engine, I would expect a new water pump as part of that? No?
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Dealer reckons so .... either way, its a given that I will be putting a new one in. Getting them to fully check the turbo, and paying for a new clutch
Wondering whether to do Samco hoses?
I expected it to be included too but surprise surprise my dealer told me it was extra.
if it is then result, if not i suppose its no big deal compared to the cost of the engine.
if it is then result, if not i suppose its no big deal compared to the cost of the engine.
I have just spoken to Swindon Audi, my car is booked to have its new engine fitted on 9th June.
New clutch, water pump with the turbo being looked into...
with a nice set of Samco hoses en-route /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Cant wait to get her back, the A6 is good ..... BUT VERY BIG!!
New clutch, water pump with the turbo being looked into...
with a nice set of Samco hoses en-route /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Cant wait to get her back, the A6 is good ..... BUT VERY BIG!!
Nice work. Glad to hear it's back on the mend. But do remember to run the new engine in for the 1st 1000miles and don't start flooring it till you hit 5000 miles. All the best
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Nice work. Glad to hear it's back on the mend. But do remember to run the new engine in for the 1st 1000miles and don't start flooring it till you hit 5000 miles. All the best
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..........Jester, its gonna be hard! but something I will definately do again, nothing quite as long lasting as a well run in engine....that is unless your cambelt goes!!!
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Nice work. Glad to hear it's back on the mend. But do remember to run the new engine in for the 1st 1000miles and don't start flooring it till you hit 5000 miles. All the best
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..........Jester, its gonna be hard! but something I will definately do again, nothing quite as long lasting as a well run in engine....that is unless your cambelt goes!!!
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There is actually a school of thought that says running in is a waste of time and you should actually be giving it full beans within 20 miles of the engine being built after warming up gently and then letting it cool off and repeat using differing ammounts of power the idea being that machine tollerances are now so good that this is the only real way to make sure the piston rings bed in correctly whilst they still can - I know if I ever get another engine rebuilt or a brand new car I'll be following this advise.
In fact I've just found one of the better descriptions of what and why...
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
In fact I've just found one of the better descriptions of what and why...
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
his write up seems convincing - although how much use his guide is to people buying production cars is I don't know. How many miles do engines do before they are fitted into the car? presumably they are tested and QA'd somehow. Similarly, built cars must have a similar QA again before they leave the factory too?
His ideas on reducing the intake sizes seem controversial too. Looks like he's seeing the benefits from shaping the intake really.
His ideas on reducing the intake sizes seem controversial too. Looks like he's seeing the benefits from shaping the intake really.
Well you see this is my big problem, you would hope by now that all engines are run in like this or similar before being put in the car, in which case it shouldn't really be a problem (for the engine at least) to be given full beans as soon as the car is up to temp from mile 1 so why do they still say any of this rubbish about running in as the brakes etc don't take that long to bed in.
I know what happens to cars as they are being transported over here (off ships etc) and that is not something that anyone buying a new car wants to hear.
Why the hell anyone would wait until 5000 miles on a modern engine is totally beyond me... I would agree that probably taking it easy (if you can't really apply the above) and slowly building the revs up over 1000miles is worthwhile then getting the oil changed but you also shouldn't let the engine bog down or just stick to the same rpm for this time as that is just as bad.
I know what happens to cars as they are being transported over here (off ships etc) and that is not something that anyone buying a new car wants to hear.
Why the hell anyone would wait until 5000 miles on a modern engine is totally beyond me... I would agree that probably taking it easy (if you can't really apply the above) and slowly building the revs up over 1000miles is worthwhile then getting the oil changed but you also shouldn't let the engine bog down or just stick to the same rpm for this time as that is just as bad.
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His ideas on reducing the intake sizes seem controversial too. Looks like he's seeing the benefits from shaping the intake really.
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Interesting...
Consider the changes Audi made to the AEB engine when they facelifted it to fit in the newer (Quattro?) A4's post 1999.5...
Old engine, code AEB - 150BHP, large port head
New engine, code AJL - 180BHP, small port head
Obviously there are other factors like ECU differences, KO3's' turbo etc. fitted to those cars but I think the fact that the head has smaller ports speaks for itself there... that has totally changed my thinking on head-porting, intake size etc. Of course there will be an optimum size for any given engine, fuel/turbo combination but it seems that simply porting the head will not yield power gains or improve air flow simply by making it all bigger.
Food for thought... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/noidea.gif
T
His ideas on reducing the intake sizes seem controversial too. Looks like he's seeing the benefits from shaping the intake really.
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Interesting...
Consider the changes Audi made to the AEB engine when they facelifted it to fit in the newer (Quattro?) A4's post 1999.5...
Old engine, code AEB - 150BHP, large port head
New engine, code AJL - 180BHP, small port head
Obviously there are other factors like ECU differences, KO3's' turbo etc. fitted to those cars but I think the fact that the head has smaller ports speaks for itself there... that has totally changed my thinking on head-porting, intake size etc. Of course there will be an optimum size for any given engine, fuel/turbo combination but it seems that simply porting the head will not yield power gains or improve air flow simply by making it all bigger.
Food for thought... /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/noidea.gif
T
[ QUOTE ]
There is actually a school of thought that says running in is a waste of time and you should actually be giving it full beans within 20 miles of the engine being built after warming up gently and then letting it cool off and repeat using differing ammounts of power the idea being that machine tollerances are now so good that this is the only real way to make sure the piston rings bed in correctly whilst they still can - I know if I ever get another engine rebuilt or a brand new car I'll be following this advise.
In fact I've just found one of the better descriptions of what and why...
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
[/ QUOTE ]
Interesting read.... not convinced, BUT i am definately no engine expert.
Seems to me that what he is talking about is the correct way to run in piston rings, BUT at what comprimise to the rest of the engine parts that need running in?
I can agree with picking up the revs across the range, but surely driving it hard will comprimise other parts.
Driving hard surely wont increase the pressure behind the rings (isnt that a constant?) it will just increase the "amount" of pressures per minute (RPM).
I believe there is middle ground to get a well run in engine (thats lasts a long time) with rings that seat well (perhaps not perfectly).
Hopefully somebody more knowledgeable that me will add some value to this?!?!
There is actually a school of thought that says running in is a waste of time and you should actually be giving it full beans within 20 miles of the engine being built after warming up gently and then letting it cool off and repeat using differing ammounts of power the idea being that machine tollerances are now so good that this is the only real way to make sure the piston rings bed in correctly whilst they still can - I know if I ever get another engine rebuilt or a brand new car I'll be following this advise.
In fact I've just found one of the better descriptions of what and why...
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
[/ QUOTE ]
Interesting read.... not convinced, BUT i am definately no engine expert.
Seems to me that what he is talking about is the correct way to run in piston rings, BUT at what comprimise to the rest of the engine parts that need running in?
I can agree with picking up the revs across the range, but surely driving it hard will comprimise other parts.
Driving hard surely wont increase the pressure behind the rings (isnt that a constant?) it will just increase the "amount" of pressures per minute (RPM).
I believe there is middle ground to get a well run in engine (thats lasts a long time) with rings that seat well (perhaps not perfectly).
Hopefully somebody more knowledgeable that me will add some value to this?!?!
When I rebuilt an engine last year, an engine specialist told me to find a fairly steep hill and do ten runs up the hill in a fairly low gear so as to not race the engine but not put it under too much strain. This apparently is the best way to run in new rings. The tolerances on bearings are getting so good these days they don't really need to be run in.
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When I rebuilt an engine last year, an engine specialist told me to find a fairly steep hill and do ten runs up the hill in a fairly low gear so as to not race the engine but not put it under too much strain. This apparently is the best way to run in new rings. The tolerances on bearings are getting so good these days they don't really need to be run in.
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Surely there is a fair bit of difference running in rings ona rebuilt engine, as opposed to a new engine?
When I rebuilt an engine last year, an engine specialist told me to find a fairly steep hill and do ten runs up the hill in a fairly low gear so as to not race the engine but not put it under too much strain. This apparently is the best way to run in new rings. The tolerances on bearings are getting so good these days they don't really need to be run in.
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Surely there is a fair bit of difference running in rings ona rebuilt engine, as opposed to a new engine?
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Surely there is a fair bit of difference running in rings ona rebuilt engine, as opposed to a new engine?
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Why? it's the same problem we're talking about if it's not sorted before the engine is put in the car, you're trying to bed in the piston rings so they match any microscopic scoring etc on the bore of the cylinder.
I also think the main things that do need any sort of bedding in are the rings as the rest should either work or not (bearings etc) from what I understand so I don't agree that it will harm anything else in a new engine but like I said it's very hard to make that leap of faith on a new engine.
This may all be total /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/swear.gif but I did a lot of reading when my engine went pop last year.
Surely there is a fair bit of difference running in rings ona rebuilt engine, as opposed to a new engine?
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Why? it's the same problem we're talking about if it's not sorted before the engine is put in the car, you're trying to bed in the piston rings so they match any microscopic scoring etc on the bore of the cylinder.
I also think the main things that do need any sort of bedding in are the rings as the rest should either work or not (bearings etc) from what I understand so I don't agree that it will harm anything else in a new engine but like I said it's very hard to make that leap of faith on a new engine.
This may all be total /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/swear.gif but I did a lot of reading when my engine went pop last year.
trouble is, as i no nothing about engines (the finer details) both schools of thought make sense to me?!?!?
.... so how did u run ur new engine in? have u noticed any differences between this and a traditionally run in engine??
.... so how did u run ur new engine in? have u noticed any differences between this and a traditionally run in engine??
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.... so how did u run ur new engine in?
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I couldn't do anything like this as AmD had already done a lot more than 50 miles in my car before I got it back (as there had been so many problems) so I just tried to stay sensible, not labour the engine and try and vary the revs rather than just sitting at any speed for too long.
I'm pleased to say it doesn't burn hardly any oil and feels like a new car even after 10,000+ miles.
.... so how did u run ur new engine in?
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I couldn't do anything like this as AmD had already done a lot more than 50 miles in my car before I got it back (as there had been so many problems) so I just tried to stay sensible, not labour the engine and try and vary the revs rather than just sitting at any speed for too long.
I'm pleased to say it doesn't burn hardly any oil and feels like a new car even after 10,000+ miles.
