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parking brake issue

saxonblue May 15, 2014

  1. saxonblue

    saxonblue Registered User

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    :uhm: well after having a new set of tyres on the front, and a new set of alloys cos when fitting the tyres we noticed that the old ones were very buckled,
    my car is now telling me I may have to spend more money on it.
    I have a problem with the electric parking brake. it seams to work fine most of the time, but now and then I get a beeeeep!! and a warning sign saying parking brake malfunction, and see workshop or something like that?
    the hand brake, or should I say parking brake flashes and I cant drive the car, some times I can sort it out by turning off the ignition
    and waiting a few seconds , then when I try it again it seem to work fine, or some times I know the brakes has released, but I still get the warning sign, I have had it in red, and also in yellow, but when I get a yellow one I can still use the car......?????????
    CONFUSING OR WHAT!!!!!!!!
    I ran my vcds and it said, 2 faults found quote-
    02432- supply voltage for left parking brake motor (v2982)
    012--electrical fault in circuit - intermittent
    fault status; 0011100
    fault priority ;1
    fault frequency ;4
    reset counter; 241
    mileage 211856 km
    time indication ;0
    date 2014.05.08
    time 15:23.23

    then for the right
    supply voltage for right brake motor (v283)
    011-- open circuit-intermittent
    fault status ;00111011
    fault priority ;1
    frequency 22
    then all the rest as it said about the left one

    I am completely discombobulated now, I aint got an inklin folks??????
    what is going on and what can I do about it?
    HELP PLEASE
     
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  3. a6_chris

    a6_chris Registered User

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    02432 - Ross-Tech Wiki

    For the meantime DO NOT put your handbrake on until you do the below.

    Code:
     02432 - Supply Voltage for Left Parking Brake Motor (V282)
    02432 - Supply Voltage for Left Parking Brake Motor (V282): Electrical Fault in Circuit
    02432 - Supply Voltage for Left Parking Brake Motor (V282): Open Circuit
    Possible Symptoms
    
        Parking Brake Warning Light active/flashing 
    
    Possible Causes
    
        Wiring/Connectors from/to Left Parking Brake Motor (V282) faulty
        Left Parking Brake Motor (V282) Power Supply faulty
        Left Parking Brake Motor/Caliper (V282) faulty 
    
    Possible Solutions
    
        Check Wiring/Connectors from/to Left Parking Brake Motor (V282)
        Check Left Parking Brake Motor and (V282) Power Supply
        Perform Terminal 30 Reset
            Remove Fuse(s) for a short Time. 
    
    Special Notes
    
        When found in VW Passat (3C): Parking Brake:
            Clear Fault Codes with Engine running (to ensure proper Voltage Supply). When checking Voltage with this Fault Code stored, the Module may not output Power to the Motor. Try clearing Fault Codes and Operating the EPB as mentioned below before testing again.
                Switch Ignition OFF for about 10 Seconds
                Start the Engine and keep it running while trying to clear Fault Codes.
                Press the Parking Brake Button (E538) in 5 Second Intervals. 
            Check TPI 2013530 (Rest of World) or TSB 2015075/01-07-47 (North American Region) for possible Control Module Software Update which corrects Low Voltage Sensitivity. This Update can be considered mandatory if you have these Fault Codes stored! 
    
     
  4. saxonblue

    saxonblue Registered User

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    wow. LOOK LIKE ITS GOING TO HAVE TO GO TO MY LOCAL VW AUDI BLOKE... I HAVE OPNLY GOT A COPY OF VCDS LIGHT, ( AND A STICKY CAPS LOCK KEY...KIDS!)
    WOULD I BE ABLE TO SORT THIS OUT MYSELF, I AM OK WITH A SET OF SPANERS, BUT VAG-COM / VCDS ECT, I AM A LITTLE CLUELESS !
     
  5. B5NUT

    B5NUT Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    If the wiring to the caliper is OK, then you are really looking at a replacement caliper.
     
  6. a6_chris

    a6_chris Registered User

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    Get a proper diagnosis with full VCDS and go from there.
     
  7. saxonblue

    saxonblue Registered User

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    well. I got a new hand brake (well a button) and after fitting it everything worked fine, until the car moved a few yards then it all went wrong again???
    I can here the motors whirring away, but still getting an error message on the dash, and the ****** brake itself flashes its head off,
    the latest on my vagcom/vcds is =

    Address 53: Parking Brake Labels: None
    Control Module Part Number: 4F0 HW: 4F0 907 801 A
    Component and/or Version: EPB CDEC0080 H04 0080
    Software Coding: 0005021
    Work Shop Code: WSC 00586 210 91538
    VCID: AA5B44550518003CA7B14E
    1 Fault Found:

    02432 - Supply Voltage for Left Parking Brake Motor (V282)
    011 -- Open Circuit - MIL ON
    Freeze Frame:
    Fault Status: 11101011
    Fault Priority: 2
    Fault Frequency: 29
    Reset counter: 241
    Mileage: 212432 km
    Time Indication: 0
    Date: 2014.05.28
    Time: 09:44:11

    Freeze Frame:
    Voltage: 13.56 V
    Count: 84
    dose this look like the callipers to you lot, power must be getting there as I can here them trying to work? :think:
     
  8. B5NUT

    B5NUT Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    Ross tech give three possible causes, if you have checked out the cabling to the motor, and have performed the reset by removing the fuse, then the only thing left is to replace the caliper.

    Possible Causes
    Wiring/Connectors from/to Left Parking Brake Motor (V282) faulty
    Left Parking Brake Motor (V282) Power Supply faulty
    Left Parking Brake Motor/Caliper (V282) faulty

    Possible Solutions
    Check Wiring/Connectors from/to Left Parking Brake Motor (V282)
    Check Left Parking Brake Motor and (V282) Power Supply
    Perform Terminal 30 Reset
    Remove Fuse(s) for a short Time.
     
  9. saxonblue

    saxonblue Registered User

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    would it still make a sound if the wiring to the motor was bad?. also are they fuses in the boot on my motor. was told yes, then told no if you got them in the side if the dash??? but he isn't too clued up, and I haven Eva looked to be honest
     
  10. B5NUT

    B5NUT Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    Yes on the right hand side behind the cover.
     
  11. saxonblue

    saxonblue Registered User

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    thanks, I think ill go and pull them out, cant do any harm can it?
     
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  13. B5NUT

    B5NUT Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    Well I've got the battery disconnected and charging it at the moment, so pulling a fuse for a module is about the same thing.
     
  14. saxonblue

    saxonblue Registered User

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    Wel I am proper confused now, pulled the fuses, waited for about 5 mins, put them back and yippie,,,, everything works fine, drove the car used the hand brake a few times, parked it up over night, got in this morning and BEEEEEP! The ****** things gone daft again,
     
  15. saxonblue

    saxonblue Registered User

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    well 2 new callipers and a new set of discs and pads just to sort the rear brakes out and BAM...... the ****** things still doing it
    the bloke at the garage I use did notice a small crack in the wire going to the left side calliper, so did a temp repair , it works a treat now, but the right one had some water in the sleeving, and around the connector. so that's goosed now.....:banghead:
    SO 2 new wiring looms on order. this hand brake is getting to be ****** EXPENCIVE!!!!!
     
  16. saxonblue

    saxonblue Registered User

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    Well I haven't got a clue, I have replaced the wiring harnesses as well as everything else including new callipers, well I say me, the bloke at the garage did it for me. Now I know the callipers are working Fine as I has set off with the handbrake on and dragged both the rear wheels along the gravel out side my home
    But I am still getting an error message on the dash, and the brake is still flashing, getting a fault on vagcom saying left one is open or short to ground, it won't clear off, well it duz but just pops back on again, plesesse can someone help this is truly driving me mad
     
  17. saxonblue

    saxonblue Registered User

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    How do you do a terminal 30 reset, and can it be done with vcds light
     
  18. c4a5er

    c4a5er Registered User

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    terminal 30 is a reference to unswitched battery volts so presumably a reset would be a battery disconnect and reconnect.

    It might be worth asking audi if there is a controller software update for low voltage sensitivity as there appears to be for Passat.
     
    gupsterg likes this.
  19. kaz3uk

    kaz3uk Registered User

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    Hi,
    Just wondering if you got to the bottom of this? I have the same problem not changed the calipers yet. i have changed the electronic brake switch it worked fine for a week. then i had the cable checked for left caliper it was damaged!! repaired the cable worked fine for 4 days now im back to square 1. i dont wanna change calipers just for the hell of it. diagnostic machine does give same sort of a message about voltage.
     
  20. saxonblue

    saxonblue Registered User

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    well I am back to a new problem with the parking brake,(as if I aint had enough of them )
    this time , its the rear left one that's stuck on?
    tryd the pulling away to realise it stuff you see all over the place, but nothing.
    I had all the FULL braking system replaced last June on this motor ,big money spent, and I don't really want to spend more on the NEW BRAKES that's already on it,
    so how do I wind it back?
    is there a test I can do to show if its the new calliper at fault,
    arrrrrrr, EPB'S I hate them, give me a good old fashion cable operated set up any day
     
  21. D5URU

    D5URU Registered User

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    Hi, check connectors on the wiring side - ones which connects to caliper, wiring alone could ok, but poor contact can cause the problem. I have seen couple of audi a6 c6 with tape wrapped around connectors at rear brake calipers.
     
  22. ASUSfreak

    ASUSfreak Registered User

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    I'm new here, so this is my first post and I no nothing about car mechanics as I'm a sparky (I work on the electrical grid here in Belgium). But since you say the error code is "fault to the ground" it might be the electrical brake motor itself. It might be burnt/partial burnt so that the solenoid inside the motor has gotten to hot, resulting in melting the insulation of those copper wires, resulting in touching the exterbnal case of the engine. --> Sorry I speak English, but technical English and grammar isn't my strong point ;)

    But it might touch the chassis of the motor resulting into fault to ground. And since it's only 12V (assuming) the "flash-over" of the spark is not as heavy as say 230V or 10.000V so it may sometimes touch and sometimes not... That might be the reason why it sometimes works and sometimes not.

    There are A LOT of bad connections in "electricity world", but they will burn out ;)


    Meanwhile what you might try (if you can get to the wirering) is to measure it's resistance. BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE WIRES so it's like you should have the motor inside your hands, no connections to the car. Just grab a multimeter and set it to Ohm. You should ALWAYS measure a resistance. If you measure 0, it's in short circuit, if you measure MAX (like infinite), the wirering inside the electrical brake motor is over, since there's no "return" of the signal. If you measure some Ohm, check it with the other 3 motors, should be the same I guess (at least on the same axle). BUT, you can also measure Ohm but WAY lower than the other motor and that's most of the time the insulation melted from the wires (solenoid) of the electrical motor , as the current flows directly from side A to B and not following the whole lenght of the solenoid (when insulated).

    Once you know the continuity (of the solenoid) is correct, try to "megger" it out (don't know the English word) but it's using a meter to set 500V onto the device (be sure the wireing is disconnected from the car offcourse, you don't want 500V on your 12V stuff ;) )
    With that 500V you WILL create a "flash-over" to the chassis of the motor. If that happens you'll see the meter not "charging/loading up" the cable and it should say 0 or something. Than you know the insulation is broken. The 500V is with very, very low amps, so you won't destroy your stuff, but it's always better to totaly disconect stuff because you might measure other things in the total circuit and you do not want that.


    I hope you understand my Dutch speaking English ;)
     
    c4a5er likes this.
  23. saxonblue

    saxonblue Registered User

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    Thanks for the replays and advice folks, I have run vagcom to see what it showed up again this morning,
    It says supple voltage to left moter fault, open or short to ground, or words to that affect ,
    Can't do a re scan as my cable has just gone pop lol
    So sat waiting for green flag to come and help me out,
    Sickening though as Everything was replaced last year
     
  24. gupsterg

    gupsterg Registered User

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    As you had so much bits replaced perhaps try to get the EPB module updated? You do have the older SW part number from looking at your VCDS log, revision is higher than TSB.

    It may even be worthwhile (cheaper than SW update @ Audi) to get another EPB module from ebay, what year and model is your A6 and I'll double check which P/N of module perhaps to go for. From when I last checked that module have no component protection, just unplug old refit new and recode.

    To recode module you must run the prerequisites highlighted here Link:- http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_A6_(4F)_Parking_Brake
     
  25. B5NUT

    B5NUT Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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    Current part number and software revision is 4F0 910 801 D, there are know issues with the A revision which can cause faults similar to the ones shown in the scan. The TSB will upgrade the software on the module to C revision.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2015
  26. B5NUT

    B5NUT Well-Known Member VCDS Map User

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  27. ASUSfreak

    ASUSfreak Registered User

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    Some nice info in there, also the youtube link in his post is good to know and order the correct connection for reading out the software :eek: (I have A64F IIRC)


    That's not a bad price at all! For 70€ and your done! I'm having EPB issues sometimes, but nothing compared with OP's... but good to know it can be as simple as this.
     
  28. Audia6c6

    Audia6c6 Registered User

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    Hi, I think im in the same position. Parking brake not functioning, new wiring loom done, new switch done, calipers connections all fine so have been recommended replacing the module by an auto electrition. Im struggling on finding a p/n as apparently the one in my audi a6 c6 is not the original and possibly not suitable. My cars a 2005 model. Fy05rxt. Can you help with a P/n? Many thanks in advance
     

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