overheating 1.9tdi 150 .. Water pump replaced head gasket okay?

RyanS3TT

RyanS3TT

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Hello guys can c anyone shed any light in this for me please I have a 150 bhp 1.9tdi that over heats when driving if I coast temp drops down again I replaced water pump and did a ahead gasket sniff test and it came back clear. I have blow into the big pipe below and water came out straight way I blew into the smaller hose and covered the plastic nipplease and air just blew back at me when I removed my mouth. Is that normal? Also return flow to resivour is a trickle at best on tick over hot or cold ill attach image now
 
Blocked rad
Stat stuck closed
I'd go at the stat first
 
Oh and sniffing an blowing things just doesn't seem right.
 
Also thermostat is removed .. how can I test for blocked rad
 
Hello Jo Jo,

long time no speak - Its Ryan that had the S3 MTM.

I dont know, mine is a Golf, but im not a member of uk mk4s. so ive come here on the hope you of Tuffty or Bill or someone useful could come and help :)

Im baffled

Ryan
 
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RyanS3TT said:
Hello Jo Jo,

long time no speak - Its Ryan that had the S3 MTM.

I dont know, mine is a Golf, but im not a member of uk mk4s. so ive come here on the hope you of Tuffty or Bill or someone useful could come and help :)

Im baffled

Ryan
Click to expand...


Ahhh, that would make sense, yes, the Mk4 Golf came in PD150, Anniversary model only? The A3 never had this engine, and despite only 20bhp difference, there are some differences with the engines. I can't help you out regarding your overheating issue, but I do believe the PD150's suffer from chocolate cams with high mileage, and it's important to use the correct PD spec oils to keep everything lubed up!
 
Myth about the 150 models having week cams, all PD engines had the same cams and can all suffer problems if the wrong oil is used.The problem shows up more in the 150 as they are generally driven harder and the power and is shifted up on them (more lag but more top end).

The 150 model gained a front mount cooler as standard and an upgraded bearing in the turbo, and different map. Other than that it's the same as the 130 model.

Have you felt the hoses coming out of the radiator when it's overheating to see if coolant is circulating?
 
Thanks Jim.

Its strange the circulation seems okay, however i pulled the thin hose off on the picture attached and just steam came out. I think its blocked as from there it goes to the res i think and no water comes out of the res return pipe.

Im gonna try clear it with an airline today.

hoses are pressurized like my old 115 that the headgasket went on, but.... I dont think its headgasket as the test doesnt show headgasket failure and the pressure is boiling water that cannot recirculate i guess.

Does that make any sense?

Ryan

20140811 131942

https://imageshack.com/i/ipZngtIBj
 
Mates PD130 has just had a gasket done, it too passed the sniff test.

Driven like a gran it was fine. Give it some poke and it'd blow the contents of the coolant tank out the relief valve.

We tried all the fixes and the gasket was the only thing left so he just stumped up and had the gasket done. Sure enough there was a small failure and new gasket has sorted it.


Obviously check everything else first, but it could well be the gasket.
 
Thanks Aragorn, Im hoping its not the headgasket, although ive done one before and dont find them too hard a job, id rather not replace one. Im gonna try blowing out the pipes as I cannot understand brand new waterpump yet the return to res is a dribble at best. sometimes nothing. - and at tick over my mums PD has loads returned.

I cannot understand why there wouldnt be a return. - Blockage is only thing i can think of.

Ryan
 
Just to Recap.

The issues im having.

Car Sits fine on tickover at 90 degrees and over heats when under load.
The Return to Res is getting no water sometimes a dribble at best.
Fans inside the car are not getting hot.

Waterpump has been replaced.
Thermostat Removed.

A friend from work says to check for an airlock.

Fill the Rad with water and open all bleed valves until all air is pushed out?

Is that possible, and if so where are the Bleed points?

Thanks in advance.

Ryan
 
RyanS3TT said:
Just to Recap.

The issues im having.

Car Sits fine on tickover at 90 degrees and over heats when under load.
The Return to Res is getting no water sometimes a dribble at best.
Fans inside the car are not getting hot.

Waterpump has been replaced.
Thermostat Removed.

A friend from work says to check for an airlock.

Fill the Rad with water and open all bleed valves until all air is pushed out?

Is that possible, and if so where are the Bleed points?

Thanks in advance.

Ryan
Click to expand...

Head gaskets issues are very common on these now. Usually a minor fracture on cylinder 2 or 3.

Is your car actually loosing coolant? If it the head gasket it will spit all it coolant out if you do a long drag up a steep hill (high load / cylinder pressure).

Also after letting the car cool down the coolant pipes / expansion tank pressure should drop away. If the car is cold and there is still pressure in the system the head gasket is most likely toast.
 
Hello Jim,

Its not loosing any water, thats the thing. and on start up theres no pressure, not til the system gets warm (After a drive maybe)?

and the hydrocarbons test i did shows no hydrocarbons in the water. its baffling.

Can i bleed the coolant system? or heater matrix? or force any airlock out?
 
RyanS3TT said:
Hello Jim,

Its not loosing any water, thats the thing. and on start up theres no pressure, not til the system gets warm (After a drive maybe)?

and the hydrocarbons test i did shows no hydrocarbons in the water. its baffling.

Can i bleed the coolant system? or heater matrix? or force any airlock out?
Click to expand...

Odd, does sound more like a circulation issue than HG then.

I have not come across an air lock on one of these before. You could try popping the top radiator hose off and see if the radiator will accept any coolant.
 
Ill try that tonight Jim, - Do you know of a bleed valve on the car? or where the heater matrix is?
 
RyanS3TT said:
Ill try that tonight Jim, - Do you know of a bleed valve on the car? or where the heater matrix is?
Click to expand...

I don't think there is a bleed valve, its supposed to be 'self bleeding'. Usually after draining coolant if you refill, then turn the heater to high and take the cap off the expansion tank and let it idle until warm the coolant level drops and you then top back up to the correct level and are good to go.
 
I was hoping that wasnt the case.

I will check heater matrix pipes tonight and see if i can get it to self bleed, ill check heater changed to hot and see where I am..

Im running out of options i think, HG next? :(
 
JimS3 said:
Myth about the 150 models having week cams, all PD engines had the same cams and can all suffer problems if the wrong oil is used.The problem shows up more in the 150 as they are generally driven harder and the power and is shifted up on them (more lag but more top end).

The 150 model gained a front mount cooler as standard and an upgraded bearing in the turbo, and different map. Other than that it's the same as the 130 model.

Have you felt the hoses coming out of the radiator when it's overheating to see if coolant is circulating?
Click to expand...

Turbo is different from 130 to 150 , bigger inducer on the compressor wheel and larger turbine wheel
 
So a little update.

I flushed out the Coolant system, stucking a hose in it and filling everything to the highest point on the car (expansion tank).

I did this with the heater set to cold (a friend from work says i should of done it on hot as it turns a valve and pens heater matrix? I dont know how true this is?) Does anyone know?

Either way I drove 10 Miles and car was fine, i thought brilliant. on the way home, car was sitting at 90 degrees I got to a steep hill and the dropped it down a gear to go up within a minute the car was over heating with a loss in power (or atleast it felt that way.) and I was forced to pull over.

Airlock still or Head Gasket? - Pipes get really pressurised and when i release the cap it all goes.

Looking at the cost of a headgasket its £81 for Bolts gasket and head set, so I may jsut do it if I cannot get any joy here.

I think I have the 1 hole Gasket. On my odl PD I didnt skim the head, I jsut took it off, cleaned up and lightly sanded bot block and head and replaced the Gasket and it ran beautifully after that.

Would anyone do it differently?

Ryan
 
Last edited:
You should really put winns or other brand flush in there
Run it to temp.
Empty refil with plain water upto temp again then flush threw with heater on high.
If your gona do the head have it checked at a proper shop.
 
Winns flush ? So do we still think this could be the coolant system and not the HG?

When I put a Hose in the pipes the system fills up easily, and no pipe is blocked. or seems blocked.
 
I'm saying that's the way to do it unless I saw the car iv can't say what it is have a HG test
 
I did a head gasket test and it came back clear, I did a cheap Dr Head Gasket one. and it stayed blue. So no hydrocarbons present, but apparently they arent always correct.

I will try a flush tonight.

Whats the procedure? bleed the car from the bottom run flush for how long and fill with water again?
 
Here is a video of the coolant tank after a drive . It makes a tush tush tush noise after driving, and the second video is me undoing the cap after a 1.4 mile run, on an already warm/hot engine (90 Degrees showing on temp gauge) No thermostat.

[video]http://tinypic.com/r/2m4x57b/8[/video]

[video]http://tinypic.com/r/2zhgx7n/8[/video]
 
Last edited:
just been to have a play on mine, PD130

just started from cold, There is nothing coming out of the return line to the top of the reservoir,
within a couple of minutes, the pipes from the back of the block going to the heater matrix and then down to the oil cooler were warm to the touch, big pipes to rad had no change in temp.

you don't need the heater on hot, coolant circulates all the time through the heater matrix

with the res cap off, (engine stopped) a good squeeze on the top rad pipe should squirt some coolant into the res via the return pipe.

sounds like you still have a bit of an air lock
 
Thanks buddy, So you had no return in the res either? My Mums 110 PD does. almost straight away.

Im so confused. Ill squeze the top rad hose, but i dont think i get anything out the return. I hope it is just a air lock
 
Update.

The car is still be driven to work and back 2 Miles trip each way, as I have no other way to get in. Today the car felt... Different.

It felt down on power. like it would rev well to 2k then struggle after, and get louder in the engine.

Any ideas? - I know the turbo was replaced and is brand new as this went and chucked oil into exhaust. (maybe its chocking?)

But it wasnt doing this before?

Ryan
 
RyanS3TT said:
Update.

The car is still be driven to work and back 2 Miles trip each way, as I have no other way to get in. Today the car felt... Different.

It felt down on power. like it would rev well to 2k then struggle after, and get louder in the engine.

Any ideas? - I know the turbo was replaced and is brand new as this went and chucked oil into exhaust. (maybe its chocking?)

But it wasnt doing this before?

Ryan
Click to expand...

Weak MAF would cause this. Do you have VCDS or a fault code scanner?
 
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