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Is your Mastertech friend able to shed any light on the possible cause of the juddering and a solution to that which some of us are experiencing with our cars ? I've read in other places that the 7 speed dry clutch s-tronic (mated to the 35tfsi) is only good for cars that produce under 250nm of torque. Audi's literature states 35's provide 250nm to start with. I think I've also read the MHEV can provide an extra 50nm's.
I can ask him to look when he's back next week - My works Pool Car - Seat Leon 1.5T Petrol does it sometimes better now with a few miles on it

I would suggest you try a couple of tanks of High Octane fuel to see if that helps as well
 
It's also poses the question of whether the BAS system could be the source of the juddering in my A3.
I'm unsure whether it assists every time the car starts pulling away, or only when you boot it. Even if I pull out of a junction, onto a roundabout etc reasonably steady, I still get a light judder. It's worse when I pull away a bit quicker.
 
Quite how the BAS assists is a mystery as it can’t drive the wheels. Unless it spins the crank to get the engine going before combustion kicks in.
Abmat: quoting from the Audi page that you linked to: “When driving off and accelerating from a low rotational speed, it assists the TFSI with up to 9 kW and 50 Nm (36.9 lb-ft) of torque. In certain driving situations, it shifts the loads such that the engine’s efficiency is further increased.”
(Note that assistance is not just from low speed.)

I’m not sure that the mechanism for this is such a mystery. The motor/generator is connected to the engine via a belt, which will be sufficiently robust to transfer 50 Nm of torque to the wheels via the engine.

It appears that Audi are using the boost from motor to fill in the lack of torque from the small turbo engine at low revs and to improve acceleration efficiency by load-shifting at higher revs (ie if the motor is assisting acceleration, then slightly less fuel is required): hence why there is no claimed overall torque / power increase.
 
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I tend to switch off the 'start/stop' although it does mean the car starts up when it comes to a stop if it's switched the engine off as a result of employing the MHE system. It still judders though when pulling away (sometimes). I've found it'll just spin the NSF wheel if I try to drive off more 'urgently'. I'll give the high octane idea a go and see what that does. It is interesting to read that one post suggests no judder at all and another that suggests a chip and play intervention also eliminated judder. Sounds like a software matter rather than, perhaps, something mechanical.
 
It's just a (bad) habit I got into with other Audi's and VW's I've owned. I am thinking I need to change that though for the reasons you mention.
 
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Abmat: quoting from the Audi page that you linked to: “When driving off and accelerating from a low rotational speed, it assists the TFSI with up to 9 kW and 50 Nm (36.9 lb-ft) of torque. In certain driving situations, it shifts the loads such that the engine’s efficiency is further increased.”
(Note that assistance is not just from low speed.)

I’m not sure that the mechanism for this is such a mystery. The motor/generator is connected to the engine via a belt, which will be sufficiently robust to transfer 50 Nm of torque to the wheels via the engine.

Having driven this 1.0TSI (110) engine before in DSG guise on an Ibiza (with 1.14k weight) and now this A3 MHEV with the 'same' 1.0TSI (110) (with 1.28k weight) or thereabouts, I do feel that something is 'aiding' the car when accelerating, as sometimes I notice the car increasing speed from low revs, but the rpms do not seem to go up conrrespondingly, yet the speed increases. Is it the MHEV doing something underneath, perhaps, but what I'm sure about is that the fuel economy is def postively affected by the MHEV. My experience is that the 1.0TSI MHEV can do 8-10% more mpg in DSG guise compared to a non MHEV 1.0TSI DSG like for like, especially if the car can coast (engine off) for AGES coming up to a red light. Also for the OP who mentioned putting higher RON, although I cannot feel any performance gains from a 30TFSI, fuel economy is improved just about enough to justify running 97-99RON over 95RON (when they were both E5). I think with the introduction of E10, it definately makes it worthwhile. Currently running a mix of Texaco E10 and Tesco Momentum E5 99RON in my tank. So perhaps a E7.5 Ron 97 mix :). Please note since switching from R95 E5 to E10, noticed about 2-3mpg worse mpg like for like.
 
Out of interest, what is it that you don’t like about start/stop in the MHEV?

(One of the big advantages of the higher power motor and battery in the MHEV is smooth, seamless start/stop.)
The only 'disadvantage' for me (maybe it's a personal thing) is the brake pedal feel, when the car goes from regen, to engine off. Especially if I'm expected to keep the same brake force, suddenly when there is not assisted braking from regen, nor engine, have to learn to lift the brake slightly once i feel that happens. Which sometimes makes me brake too lightly or hardly, as I expect the above to happen, and it doesn't, and then the pre-sense pings me!
 
The only 'disadvantage' for me (maybe it's a personal thing) is the brake pedal feel, when the car goes from regen, to engine off.
I agree that braking smoothly to a stop is more difficult in the MHEV. Perhaps a future design improvement will be braking-by-wire which would solve this (by allowing the car to balance the demanded braking force between engine, motor/generator and brakes).
 
Also for the OP who mentioned putting higher RON, although I cannot feel any performance gains from a 30TFSI, fuel economy is improved just about enough to justify running 97-99RON over 95RON (when they were both E5). I think with the introduction of E10, it definately makes it worthwhile. Currently running a mix of Texaco E10 and Tesco Momentum E5 99RON in my tank. So perhaps a E7.5 Ron 97 mix :). Please note since switching from R95 E5 to E10, noticed about 2-3mpg worse mpg like for like.
Off topic a bit but interested in what you mention @KXL. Since taking delivery of my A3, I have only ever put in Texaco E10. We have a local Tesco and I could switch to E5 99RON for around 12p a litre more.

With E10 coming in and the difference between standard and premium fuel being wider, you say you definitely think it's worthwhile to buy premium fuel? I might give it a go with some crude maths to see the difference.
 
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A bit off the topic too but best wishes everyone for 2022. Let's hope we see many resolutions ...
 
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Off topic a bit but interested in what you mention @KXL. Since taking delivery of my A3, I have only ever put in Texaco E10. We have a local Tesco and I could switch to E5 99RON for around 12p a litre more.

With E10 coming in and the difference between standard and premium fuel being wider, you say you definitely think it's worthwhile to buy premium fuel? I might give it a go with some crude maths to see the difference.
I cannot say if this 'better' fuel economy would work out for you, but with my type of journies, and driving style, it works out break-even or better. With E10 giving poorer than reported (Government says 1-2% poorer economy, but my experience is more like 4-5%, or 2-3mpg), I can confidently say (for me) it works out (even more so, since I only fill Ron99 whenever I get £5 off tesco clubcard voucher) it was 1.47p/l for Momentum and 1.40 for E10 at the tesco 2 weeks ago. On my usual Sun AM journies (so hardly any traffic and I can drive my economical style) a trip from East London to West London via Kings X area, on E10 would get me 53-54mpg. (old Ibiza 1.0TSI DSG non hybrid got me 50-51mpg (E5 95RON)) 40min journey time. Filled up with Momentum 99, and same 40 min journey time, but 59.3mpg! Unsure if this is more 99RON or E5 or both. From my previous Ibiza, Shell Ron 99 gave 58mpg, so maybe Shell might give even more mpg than Tesco Momentum, as momentum on the Ibiza didn't give any more than the E5 R95 back then.
 
Updates on the issues from my original post
  1. Audi Pre-Sense fault no longer showing when I first start driving. Thanks to @AdamInKent for the tip to park away from a wall (front of car).
  2. MMI logging out was definitely a server issue. Audi Digital Services confirmed the times of server downtime and it matched the times I had the issue.
  3. Audi Connect license was sorted within 48hrs of the information getting to the "right team" at Audi Digital Services - not bad.
  4. Update on the serious juddering issue. A neighbour of mine has the same 35TFSI and has a plug & play remap chip. We just thought we'd give it a quick go to see. Well, 3 days with the chip in and no juddering what so ever!! I'm no expert but does this mean it has to do with the engine management? I have booked the car in with Audi in the new year. I'll obviously remove the remap chip and I'm assuming I'll have to be careful with what I say. I'll be interested in their solution - if they have one!
  5. Condensation is still a problem. Got one of the dehumidifier bags on order - thanks for all the tips on this.
  6. Still a few issues with the doors not shutting, needing a proper shove. On the list for Audi to look at when it's in the garage but I'm expecting them to say "it's how it is" as they will shut...
Hi, I’m regards to the connect issue, I have the same problem and Audi just directed me to contact my dealer, should I try them again and see if I get someone who will fix the issue?
 
Yeah braking can be a bit of a difficult beast in this vehicle, trying to smoothly stop in start/stop traffic conditions often leads to a big thump as the engine cuts out and a violet stop, usually with no time to take my foot off the break to prevent it. Using less braking helps but it can sometimes catch me off guard.
 
Update following the A3 visiting the Audi garage on 10/1, apparently an "Audi Master Technician" was involved, wasn't sure what that meant.
I had asked them to look into 3 issues; juddering under acceleration from standstill, significant condensation build-up inside, finally passenger door and boot "bounce back" when closing.
  • To address the juddering, he explained a reset had been carried out on the engine management system. I didn't get much more detail because I couldn't speak to the technician and only the dealership manager. Whatever they have done has worked. It was a cold day and as I pulled out the dealership on a cold start, I knew immediately it had been fixed. If anyone else has a juddering when pulling away, I would recommend getting it into the dealership. Driving over the past few days has confirmed the problem is no longer there.
  • They acknowledged the heavy condensation, re-gassed the a/c (not sure why as it's brand new) and said to clean the screen using an anti-fog cleaner. Nothing else can be done.
  • Didn't want to acknowledge the issue with the passenger door and boot so I walked the manager out and showed him - luckily it did it for him too. After a 10min wait indoors while a technician did a visual check, I was told there is nothing wrong with the alignment, latches or locks. Basically just live with it and give them a heavy shove.
 
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Update following the A3 visiting the Audi garage on 10/1, apparently an "Audi Master Technician" was involved, wasn't sure what that meant.
I had asked them to look into 3 issues; juddering under acceleration from standstill, significant condensation build-up inside, finally passenger door and boot "bounce back" when closing.
  • To address the juddering, he explained a reset had been carried out on the engine management system. I didn't get much more detail because I couldn't speak to the technician and only the dealership manager. Whatever they have done has worked. It was a cold day and as I pulled out the dealership on a cold start, I knew immediately it had been fixed. If anyone else has a juddering when pulling away, I would recommend getting it into the dealership. Driving over the past few days has confirmed the problem is no longer there.
  • They acknowledged the heavy condensation, re-gassed the a/c (not sure why as it's brand new) and said to clean the screen using an anti-fog cleaner. Nothing else can be done.
  • Didn't want to acknowledge the issue with the passenger door and boot so I walked the manager out and showed him - luckily it did it for him too. After a 10min wait indoors while a technician did a visual check, I was told there is nothing wrong with the alignment, latches or locks. Basically just live with it and give them a heavy shove.

Juddering: Awesome that you got a good outcome of it. Enjoy the drive!

Condensation: Mine only fogs up when it's really cold. My solution is to hit the 'Max' button with the temp of 22 and leave it there for few minutes before setting off.
During the drive, the car tends to fog up if the CC is on Auto and when stopped at lights. MHEV does not seem to pass the air through air-con system to save juice and it fogs up.
My solution is to set the temp fixed at 21, turn off auto, blower at 3-4 bars, blow direction to windscreen and feet - this keeps the car nice, warm and condensation free during the drive and at traffic lights stops.

Door/bootlid bouncing back: This was happening to me when the car was newer. It's almost an year old now having done 11k miles so far and any door/bootlid almost never bounces back. So my explanation to this phenomenon is in newer car the rubber seals were fresh out of factory and stiff causing the bounce back, with regular use they became softer and works as expected.
 
Condensation:
During the drive, the car tends to fog up if the CC is on Auto and when stopped at lights. MHEV does not seem to pass the air through air-con system to save juice and it fogs up.

Door/bootlid bouncing back: This was happening to me when the car was newer. It's almost an year old now having done 11k miles so far and any door/bootlid almost never bounces back. So my explanation to this phenomenon is in newer car the rubber seals were fresh out of factory and stiff causing the bounce back, with regular use they became softer and works as expected.
I have had the same experience with the boot: it gets better with time (though it’s still not 100% reliable after 10 months).

Regarding fogging up: I find that once my MHEV has defogged (just by hitting the front and rear demist buttons) it doesn’t mist up again for that journey, with the aircon running in Auto (note that most of my journeys are just with me in the car). A change I have made for winter is that, when I am doing short journeys (my commute is only a few miles), I ensure that the aircon is not in Eco mode, to give it the best chance of dehumidifying the air in the short journey time.

A plus point of this car is that the heater starts producing warm air pretty quickly (compared to any car I have owned previously). .
 
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Update following the A3 visiting the Audi garage on 10/1, apparently an "Audi Master Technician" was involved, wasn't sure what that meant.
I had asked them to look into 3 issues; juddering under acceleration from standstill, significant condensation build-up inside, finally passenger door and boot "bounce back" when closing.
  • To address the juddering, he explained a reset had been carried out on the engine management system. I didn't get much more detail because I couldn't speak to the technician and only the dealership manager. Whatever they have done has worked. It was a cold day and as I pulled out the dealership on a cold start, I knew immediately it had been fixed. If anyone else has a juddering when pulling away, I would recommend getting it into the dealership. Driving over the past few days has confirmed the problem is no longer there.
  • They acknowledged the heavy condensation, re-gassed the a/c (not sure why as it's brand new) and said to clean the screen using an anti-fog cleaner. Nothing else can be done.
  • Didn't want to acknowledge the issue with the passenger door and boot so I walked the manager out and showed him - luckily it did it for him too. After a 10min wait indoors while a technician did a visual check, I was told there is nothing wrong with the alignment, latches or locks. Basically just live with it and give them a heavy shove.
The action to resolve the juddering sounds exactly the same solution given to me. A factory reset. The car felt like a totally different car to drive. Unfortunately, the juddering returned shortly after (albeit using a different drive mode) but since I 'launched' it, out of frustration a week or so ago, I can't say I've noticed the return of the judder. Maybe that helped bed in the clutches and get the hydraulics in the gearbox moving. The passenger front door in my car needs a bit of extra encouragement too but I have to say the clunk of the boot closing sounds nice and reassuring which, imho, suggests there must be some solution.