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Not another Nogaro!!!

IanPG Jun 16, 2016

  1. Tj 0785

    Tj 0785 Well-Known Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User Bronze Supporter Audi S3

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    How did you route the wire for the boost pressure to the map sensor? Did you heat wrap aswell?
     
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  3. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Silver Supporter Team Nogaro Blue Audi S3

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    It runs out the back of the cluster, behind the stereo & glovebox then trough the firewall grommet. Down the loom wiring channel behind the headlight and about 10cm in of the wiring corrugated cover stuff.

    Just pulled the black cover back, stripped a 1cm section, tinned that part, tinned the tap, solder together, cover with the black corrugated wiring cover. Boost gauge on your cluster!
     
  4. Tj 0785

    Tj 0785 Well-Known Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User Bronze Supporter Audi S3

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    Ok cheers I've asked them to slider that wire and leave a length loose sticking out of cluster so all I need to do is run it to map sensor
     
  5. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Silver Supporter Team Nogaro Blue Audi S3

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    nice one :) it's literally solder it on and thread it throug one of the old screen mounting holes.
     
  6. Tj 0785

    Tj 0785 Well-Known Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User Bronze Supporter Audi S3

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    Yeah I don't fancy soldering on pcb board if I can get the clocks back so I don't have to open them up again if he happy and if I didn't see your post on that sight I would of never new I'd have to do that
     
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  7. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Silver Supporter Team Nogaro Blue Audi S3

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    yeah it would mean you would just have to tear it down to do one wire. lol

    In the latest developments...

    P1320066.jpg

    Off comes the SEM inlet manifold

    P1320069.jpg

    Along with the turbo lines

    P1320070.jpg

    Leaving the back of the engine nice and clean... sort of

    P1320075.jpg

    Now to remove the rest of the hoses & electricals

    P1320077.jpg

    THE dumbest bolt of them all! Why not just use a regular allen head bolt just like the rest of the bolts on that side! :stupid:

    P1320079.jpg P1320080.jpg

    Loom off and belts off!

    P1320082.jpg P1320081.jpg

    Chemistry brain in me liked the elements stamped on the head - however i do not like the grease splurted from the driveshaft LOL

    P1320083.jpg

    Weapon of choice!!!

    P1320085.jpg P1320084.jpg P1320088.jpg P1320087.jpg

    Now i feel like working on it! Time to focus on the head...
    Unbolting sequence on my phone

    P1320090.jpg P1320091.jpg

    Pistons look like they're alright, no scoring on the bores, smooth to rotate by hand...



    P1320099.jpg
    P1320100.jpg
    The oil pump - removed easily (as everyone says) and even this tensioner is pushed over with no effort

    Taking a look closer ....
    P1320101.jpg
    #1

    P1320102.jpg
    #2 :culpability:

    P1320103.jpg
    #3 :concern:

    P1320104.jpg
    #4
     
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  8. tcg

    tcg Well-Known Member

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    Great bit of stripping mate,not so good having a boomerang driving a piston I guess :blink: is that due to your power?

    No doubt you'll have it up and running in no time going by the way you ripped it down.
     
    IanPG likes this.
  9. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Silver Supporter Team Nogaro Blue Audi S3

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    I've got a lot of porting that I wanna work on the head and turbo. I feel that's going to take the most of the time.

    Seems like people down here go ahead and build their engines stronger but not many people seem to take the time to massage out the flow. I feel going that extra step will help make the most of everything.

    Boomerang rod was probably due to NLS overload. Lol
     
  10. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Silver Supporter Team Nogaro Blue Audi S3

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    P1320105.jpg
    Yay i can count to 4


    They don't look that bad?
    P1320106.jpg
    Oh wait... sorry i take that back!
    P1320107.jpg

    This explains where the metal chippings came from... 2 & 3 are proper rooted!
    P1320110.jpg

    Bore #3 has a chunk missing from it's bottom too.
    P1320109.jpg
    P1320108.jpg
    Is the block re usable???

    Otherwise does anyone know if the AGN block (N/A 1.8) is suitable? There are a couple of places i know that has them...
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2017
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  11. Dohcwp

    Dohcwp Setting the Standard Team Silver Audi A3

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    Cant you Re Sleeve the block ?

    take mine :grin: since the crazyness in me is planning a jetta V5 swap

    I know the AGN and turbo blocks are literally the same but the turbo blocks has about 3 has extra holes which are on the agn block pre moulded (they used the same die to make all the blocks), you just need a good engineer to drill it out. Otherwise in my personal opinion, rather search for an AGU block, you will have less hassles in the long run.

    On a serious note i hope your blue devil is back on the road asap.
     
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  13. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Silver Supporter Team Nogaro Blue Audi S3

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    thanks for the info @Dohcwp

    re sleeve? as in bore it out? kind of wanting to avoid going stroker...

    right so the AGN need some extra holes drilled.... i have a couple guys interstate who have AMK blocks... might just wait and see what they say - this one might even still be salvagable but then i wanna err on the side of caution. The chip only goes up from the bottom of the bore about 1cm and it doesn't look like there are any cracks around it.
     
  14. Dohcwp

    Dohcwp Setting the Standard Team Silver Audi A3

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    there should be engineering companies in aus that can change the cylinder sleeves out for new ones, I think they press out the old sleeves, kind of like how you press out a wheelbearing and then fit new ones.

    heres an example from the net

    [​IMG]
     
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  15. superkarl

    superkarl MAN OF STEEL

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    Where on the bore is that notch? I'm pretty sure the piston doesn't use the entire stroke of the bore. Fit the straightest rod/piston you have and rotate the crank and see.

    Sleeving isn't an option on a iron block that can be bored out, easier, cheaper.
    Sleeving tends to be done on alloy blocks or blocks with open decks
     
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  16. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Silver Supporter Team Nogaro Blue Audi S3

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    It's right at the bottom. Goes up about 1cm. Looks like the rod wanted to say hello to the block ... but just a tad roughly. Lol

    I can see a mark on all cyclone era which I'm assuming are the ring's stop point... which is a good 1.5-2 inches away from the top of the triangle shaped chip

    What do you reckon @superkarl ?

    1.9litres? Hmmm...
     
  17. superkarl

    superkarl MAN OF STEEL

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    You don't ideally want the skirt hitting that mark. And it would have to be less than 1mm deep in order to bore out to 83mm


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  18. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Silver Supporter Team Nogaro Blue Audi S3

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    It is definitely deeper than 1mm

    At the bottom of the bores there are "steps"

    If you know what I mean? It's deeper than those

    Time to source a block
     
  19. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Silver Supporter Team Nogaro Blue Audi S3

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    P1320111.jpg
    - obtained the crank locking tool (apparently quite famous in Australia) and got the big breaker out and trusty rusted pole!!!

    P1320112.jpg
    Removing this seal by using the smaller bolts to push it out



    P1320118.jpg
    - oh joy! more broken stuff

    P1320125.jpg
    - and more bent stuff!

    P1320126.jpg
    - crank out... this is where you realise "is that how it all works!!!"

    P1320127.jpg
    - better view of the ding in the block

    P1320128.jpg
    - block off the engine stand and pushed onto a conveniently tall stool so that it rested on it as i took the bolts off. Ready to go in for an assessment...

    P1320117.jpg
    - 1.8t crank down below, 2.0 FSI up top. Bit more chunky that one eh!?
     
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  20. Dohcwp

    Dohcwp Setting the Standard Team Silver Audi A3

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    2.0 crank ? so you're going stroker ?
     
  21. Ash-S3

    Ash-S3 Active Member

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    Yip stroker it is by the looks of it!! AWESOME!! One of theee best mod I did I rate! Low down power is just so much better... I went with a 82.5mm bore( therefore I still have a choice to go over size 82.7mm if anything happens.. touch wood)with wossner stroker pistons.wouldn't recommend 83mm unless you intend tracking it



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  22. superkarl

    superkarl MAN OF STEEL

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    83mm is the most common, it's perfectly safe.
    Your 82.5 bore in case of some bore damage is logical, but it would be more expensive to go 83 if you do as you'll need new pistons. As opposed to just a new block, which are peanuts.
     
  23. superkarl

    superkarl MAN OF STEEL

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    Btw I found my crank gear to have about 3 teeth missing when I opened everything up too. Sucks. At the time I didn't know where to get a replacement, I.E. being the best option. Luckily an ASN member rescued me
     
  24. SamHendry

    SamHendry Active Member

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    Nice work Ian. Your making it look easy. I thought you were just going to rod and ring the engine but it looks like your not holding back on anything. Fair play dude.

    What power/turbo were you running when rods got bent?

    What turbo are you using for the rebuild engine?

    Nice work. Things moving quick!
     
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  25. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Silver Supporter Team Nogaro Blue Audi S3

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    yeah going stroker - i thought "look i'm going to bore it anyway.... i'm going to have to get new pistons because two of them are chipped" do i go 1.9T?

    I asked old mate Gordie (he's got his silver S3 on here somewhere) if he knew someone with a 2.0L crank - turns out he had a spare. Got it at a good price plus borrowed the crank bolt locking tool. Nekminit stroker.

    I'm thinking high compression for better down low response to go along with the gtx2871r ceramic BB i've got waiting in the wings.

    Shopping list for the block so far

    ARP flywheel
    ARP crank bolt
    oil gear sprocket
    ARP main studs - align hone is required here i think?
    acl main bearings
    supertech 9.5:1 pistons
    oil pump, chain, tensioner
    squirters and bolts

    Work to be done on the block

    bore
    hone
    linish crank
    balance rotating assembly

    Anything else i've missed???

    @SamHendry - just biting things off chunks at a time - i need to get her back on the road she's my daily so i need the car again to have some form of social life... but for now... heads down, work on! LOL
     
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  26. Ash-S3

    Ash-S3 Active Member

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    That's pretty much spot on. Make sure all clearance are within tolerance. I used green plasti gauge for mine.. it works fine but if you can get someone to measure it precise then even better!

    82.5mm bore = 1984cc with TFSI crank 92.8mm
    83mm bore = 2008cc with TFSI crank 92.8mm

    I personally prefer 82.5mm but it all depends with what you want.

    Really like where this is going.very nice

    What size turbine housing A/R you going for? On that GTX2871R
     
  27. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Silver Supporter Team Nogaro Blue Audi S3

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    I'm deciding on CR of for the 83mm pistons.

    9.25, 9.5 or 9.6:1?

    It's a .64 housing @Ash-S3. I'm gunna port the **** out the WG and inlet flange and match it to the cast mani.

    Street setup so would like it as responsive as possible. Is there going to be advantages/disadvantage with the 9.25 vs 9.5 vs 9.6? Or is the difference minimal? Has anyone done higher CR's on 2.0 strokers? Apologies for the questions but like i said - i like to get my head around things and go from there :)

    Priced up the machining work - missed that there's a massive gash on cylinder 3 but engineer assures me it'll go within the first pass
     
    Last edited: Mar 8, 2017
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  28. Dohcwp

    Dohcwp Setting the Standard Team Silver Audi A3

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    Ian so your block is salvageable ?
     
  29. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Silver Supporter Team Nogaro Blue Audi S3

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    yep - the chip being at the bottom post bore and hone won't be an issue being that the rings don't travel that far down and the main thing was burrs that will be gone after the machining. *phew*
     
  30. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Silver Supporter Team Nogaro Blue Audi S3

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    While i wait for parts to come i'm tackling the head.
    First time doing any of this so any constructive criticism is very welcome!!!

    Marking up...
    P1320130.jpg P1320131.jpg P1320132.jpg
    - so i've matched these to the gasket: how far IN do i need to go??? I was feeling where i'd gasket matched and would try and smooth the "ramp" from the newly carved edge into the original port.


    Lets look at the exhaust side...

    P1320149.jpg
    stock exhaust ports measure at 36.39mm

    P1320148.jpg
    opened up a tad...

    The exhaust manifold ports to which the head is mating to
    inlet.jpg

    Going by this diagram to prevent "reversion"
    porting rule.jpg

    P1320138.jpg
    hope i'm doing this right... Was using the caliper at the bottom to measure at diagonals to make sure i can fit it in at all angles

    Billet action - GTRS on the right w/upgraded billet (gt2860R spec)
    P1320140.jpg
    You can appreciate the difference when you look at them side on
    P1320147.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2017
  31. superkarl

    superkarl MAN OF STEEL

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    You've cut quite a lot with that bur on the divider. If you have flap wheels or anything less cutty, more abrasive, you won't have to remove so much (and risk ******* up), and can instead refine things with the sanding wheels etc. Get the exhaust as smooth as possible.

    I tapered my inlets as much as possible.
    The main benefits are on the bowl areas of the ports and behind the seats. Apparently.
    Set of spring calipers would help you out in getting every port close



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  32. Stuart B

    Stuart B Well-Known Member

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    you are doing amazing work as usual Ian - after you do this massive rebuild are you still going to run your car with the pops and bangs switched on?
     
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  34. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Silver Supporter Team Nogaro Blue Audi S3

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    I thought I would do one, stop and get some feedback. Thanks for the insight!

    I have definitely made sure to use the spring calipers on each of the exhaust runners before the divider so they are even. Will be using the sanding rolls/wheels for the area behind the seat as I think my burrs are a bit large anyway.

    Think I'm going to try knife edging the intake ports too... gunna take forever but since stuff takes so long to get here I might as well.

    Yes it will stay. Will just make sure not to use NLS about 15 times within 20 minutes
     
  35. superkarl

    superkarl MAN OF STEEL

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    Andrew has a couple threads on his port jobs you could maybe have a look at to see how he does things


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  36. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Silver Supporter Team Nogaro Blue Audi S3

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    Got an oil gear sprocket - including all teeth - from the wreckers today. The 2.0 (bottom) has too many teeth so got the heat gun out, let it point to the sprocket on high for about 5 minutes.

    Froze the bajeezus out of the crank pin(?) and quickly picked up the hot sprocket and it slid right on! Eeeeaaasssyyyy!!!

    IMG_2326.JPG
     
  37. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Silver Supporter Team Nogaro Blue Audi S3

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    Yeah I've been studying that thread a lot.
    I happened to stumble on these while checking the differences between AGN and AGU/BAM heads

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252784241509

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/172052664212

    Gives a really good idea of what to aim for as well!!!
     
  38. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Silver Supporter Team Nogaro Blue Audi S3

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    I Found this re: camshaft info

    Intake shaft

    058109021 = ADR AFY (with tensioner) 8.78 mm, 210 °, 4 ° n.OT
    058109021.B = APX, ANB, AEB, APU, AJL, AGU, AQA, ARZ, AJQ, APP, APY, AUL 7.67 mm, 190 °, 18 ° n.OT
    058109021.K = ADR, APT, ARG, AVV 8.41 mm, 202 °, 16 ° n.OT
    058109021.M = AWT, AUM, ARX, ARY, AUQ, AMK, BAM, AUL, APP 7.67 mm, 190 °, 18 ° n.OT
    058109021.F = AGN, APG 8.41 mm, 202 °, 18 ° after OT
    058109021.E AWB = 8.6 mm, 207 °, 9 ° n.OT
    OT 058109021.D = ADR, AGN 8.41 mm, 202 °, 12 ° after OT

    Outlet

    058109022.B = AQA, ARZ, AJQ, APP, APY, AEB, APU, ANB, AJL, AWT, AGU, AUM, ARX, ARY, AUQ, AMK, BAM 9.3 mm, 210 °, 10 ° v.OT
    058109022.C = ADR, AFY, APT, ARG, AVV 10.25 mm, 210 °, 8 ° v.OT
    058109022.D = AGN, APG 10.4 mm, 210 °, 8 ° v.OT
     
  39. Dohcwp

    Dohcwp Setting the Standard Team Silver Audi A3

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    thats like spanish to me, what does it mean ? cam lobe differences ?
     
  40. superkarl

    superkarl MAN OF STEEL

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    Its lift (mm), duration (degrees) and valve opening time (degrees after TDC)
     
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  41. Roadtrain

    Roadtrain Audi S3 8L 225 "BAM" from Italy :)

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    I can translate spanish, but not that :D
     
  42. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Silver Supporter Team Nogaro Blue Audi S3

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    Not much going on in camp Nogaro. Just a whole lot of waiting for parts - so... while I wait... i port and make things different colours.

    First up ... bit of porting
    P1320156.jpg


    Before
    P1320157.jpg


    After
    P1320158.jpg


    Matching this up to gasket too
    P1320159.jpg


    ... and gave it a bit of a polish
    P1320172.jpg


    Marked up - think i'll leave this for another time!
    P1320173.jpg


    Gave the housing a bit of a sprucing up
    P1320174.jpg


    ... and then the comp housing
    P1320175.jpg


    ... and why not the bearing housing too!? LOL
    P1320177.jpg


    Installing snap ring
    P1320179.jpg


    Mocking up my turbo :hypnotysed:
    P1320180.jpg P1320181.jpg P1320182.jpg P1320183.jpg P1320184.jpg P1320185.jpg P1320186.jpg

    Going to send the block away next week for machining and once I get the rest of the rotating assembly they'll be joining the block for balancing.
     
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  43. superkarl

    superkarl MAN OF STEEL

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    Drill and tap the manifold and housing for M10 studs
     

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