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Not another Nogaro!!!

IanPG Jun 16, 2016

  1. Stuart B

    Stuart B Well-Known Member

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    is brake assisted steering part of traction control, terminology wise - or ESP? in my old C Class BAS and TC were different buttons. Not sure how to ever prove that such a technology works - surely it is just a last gasp correction before the accident?
     
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  3. <tuffty/>

    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow... Staff Member Moderator Audi S3

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    ESP is essentially an anti skid system...

    PDF here all about it...
    http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_204.pdf

    <tuffty/>
     
  4. Roadtrain

    Roadtrain Audi S3 8L 225 "BAM" from Italy :)

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    I believed it works as ESP in case of swerve (reducing power and braking wheels) and as TCS in case drift wheels only (some other cars has two different steps pushing ESP button for different amount of seconds: the first one disable ESP, and the second one turn off TCS too: old BMW's DSC works in this way). So on ours S3 8L the ESP is completely turned off pushing that button one time only, ok thank you.
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2017
  5. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Team Nogaro Blue Silver Supporter Audi S3

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    This would have to be one of the best interior upgrades thus far.
    Yes i know there is liquid gauge and FIS-control that are plug and play - but with some effort (a fair bit actually) and 3 days later. My cluster is now fully functional as a digital display for pretty much everything you need.

    Here we go - ColorMFA

     
    feck_on_a_stick, Alex C, Sam_ and 4 others like this.
  6. <tuffty/>

    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow... Staff Member Moderator Audi S3

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    nice actual work dude... where did you get that from?

    ...and whats with the some what phallic looking device in the middle?

    <tuffty/>
     
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  7. tcg

    tcg Well-Known Member

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    Smart job mate.

    How long before you work out how to change the car symbol from silver to Noggy :nogarors4:
     
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  8. aarroncolley

    aarroncolley Active Member

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    Would be interested for a link for the dash instrument upgrade that looks wicked.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  9. Ash-S3

    Ash-S3 Active Member

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    Wow that's just so awesome !!! Well done


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  10. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Team Nogaro Blue Silver Supporter Audi S3

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    hahahaha microphone for handsfree. i figured right in front of my face would be the best place for it to pick up my voice for calls and voice commands.

    hehe i already have the "program" or whatever it is to make DIY startup logos - i think i was the S3 logo... maybe in a noggie blue "S"????

    Here is the link where you can order - https://www.drive2.ru/o/b/462034853152424107
    Google tranlate is the key

    Thanks :) Took a while to muster up the courage to do it (as you saw in the video it's quite involved) but well worth it!!!
     
  11. S3 Hilife

    S3 Hilife It's an addiction Team Dolphin Grey Gold Supporter VCDS Map User Audi S3 quattro

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    Nice job, well done

    I know what my next job is now, not sure I have the patience though haha




    Steve
     
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  13. <tuffty/>

    <tuffty/> Badger 5 Edition...Its all about the flow... Staff Member Moderator Audi S3

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    Just ordering the ****** thing looks more involved than fitting it tbh lol

    <tuffty/>
     
  14. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Team Nogaro Blue Silver Supporter Audi S3

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    hahahah

    just shoot them a message and wait.

    the worst is that there's approx. 2 month waiting period.
     
  15. Ash-S3

    Ash-S3 Active Member

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    damn okay 2 months wait then send my cluster over to you to get done :notworking: hahah
    really loving the mods on this car and the route you going with it :s3addict:
     
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  16. Dohcwp

    Dohcwp Setting the Standard Team Silver Audi A3

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    :openmouth::openmouth::openmouth::openmouth::openmouth: Amazing !!

    Im Guessing the new daughter board grabs the signals directly from the pins of the blue, grey and green connectors (totally bypassing the old fis connection) , I see it only work with the facelift dis clusters also :disappointed: ! guess its time to start hunting for one :grin:

    you are really raising the bar with your car :sunglasses:
     
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  17. Roadtrain

    Roadtrain Audi S3 8L 225 "BAM" from Italy :)

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    Incredible!
     
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  18. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Team Nogaro Blue Silver Supporter Audi S3

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    Correct - they connect to the pin outs of those connectors. SO would anyone know of this means the setup will work with aftermarket ECU's??? I have some friends who are wanting the screen however have "upgraded" to Link ecu. I'm not sure if the signal is first processed by the ECU to be send to the cluster. I'm guessing it is making this compatible only to for OEM ecu setups.

    You can see I was a tad rough when removing the old screen - I lifted contacts left right and centre but all the lights that I needed working are still ok so it completely does away with that obsolete red and yellow screen!


    I am actually taking down names to make a group buy so if you're not in a rush and wanna do it. Then yeah I'll be happy to help out but I am in Australia. Lol. Probably best to find someone more local or just give it a go yourself?

    I'll make a write up here so you can have some guidance.
     
    TurboLover likes this.
  19. aarroncolley

    aarroncolley Active Member

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    After going on the link you've provided I'm still not 100% sure what I'm supposed to be looking for lol. Am I supposed to send my clocks off and they do it or am I paying for new clocks with the aftermarket cluster in the middle ? Thanks


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  20. The Chippy

    The Chippy Member

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    Could you do this mod on my B5 RS4 too?

    How much for each cluster?
     
  21. Stuart B

    Stuart B Well-Known Member

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    good work Ian, although you have made some work for yourself :D :D
     
  22. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Team Nogaro Blue Silver Supporter Audi S3

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    hahaha it is confusing the hell out of everyeone

    maybe the guid needs to include how to purchase too
    hahaha

    yes there are at least 12 people who want this mod in Oz .... christ!!!


    so what you actually get is
    - motherboard
    - screen
    - wires
    - more wires
    - tweeter
    - screen protectors

    that's it

    it's a DIY process. or you can send your cluster to russia.... but that's no fun
     
  23. The Chippy

    The Chippy Member

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    Theres one in the Uk that wants two of his done too....

    Hi :)
     
  24. Dohcwp

    Dohcwp Setting the Standard Team Silver Audi A3

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    I would love to do that mod but my fis clocks are the non can ones, i wonder if a can emulator can be used to spoof it, cause the only thing the canbus is used for on the facelift clocks are the radio, everything else is K line. i saw the diagram on the russian site, doesnt look too complicated

    [​IMG]
     
  25. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Team Nogaro Blue Silver Supporter Audi S3

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    Until you see how small those contacts are
     
  26. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Team Nogaro Blue Silver Supporter Audi S3

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    COLOUR MFA WRITE UP

    TOOLS REQUIRED:
    - soldering iron (fine tip if possible)
    - solder
    - solder wicking
    - solder sucker
    - flux (pen will do)
    - philips head screwdriver
    - t10 torx bit
    - small pliers
    - small side cutters
    - tweezers
    - pin
    - blu-tack
    - electrical contact cleaner/isopropyl alcohol
    - rotary tool w/cut off disc
    - small wire strippers
    - double sided foam adhesive tape
    - razorblade / scalpel knife
    - hot glue gun

    DISCLAIMER: this is not for the faint hearted... i suggest you have a spare cluster at the ready, and are able to code it in (or have someone code it in for you) as you are pretty much going to ruin the cluster you are going to be working on. Be careful. Read, re-read, look at your cluster, re-re-read again, compare information to your cluster, ask questions and then go ahead and start the job to make sure this is a successful mod. Good luck - it'll be worth it!

    STEP 1:
    Remove your cluster

    Careful not to scratch up the steering wheel column surround - if you do, oh well! That black "matte coating" can be alcohol rubbed off anyway! lol

    STEP 2:
    Strip your cluster. watch this
    up until 3:05. you want to get to the stage where dial faces and needles are off and you can see the white plastic frame underneath.
    _06_.jpg

    Here's where the ruining of your old unit begins. Using your side cutters - cut the two "arms" that join the two side displays to the main white frame. Make two cuts (4 in total) - one at each join - you are making a "channel" for wiring to run through.
    _07_.jpg

    STEP 3:
    remove the white frame (press the tabs from behind). You will get to this point (pic below) - we are going to remove this screen altogether. If you still have the OEM one you will have a blue ribbon which is going to be much easier to remove than this aftermarket screen.
    IMG_2091.JPG

    STEP 4:
    Using your soldering iron (or small heat gun) along with some flux and solder wicking - remove the old LCD screen by soaking up the old solder then heating up the contacts and pulling GENTLY to remove the original ribbon from the board.
    You can see i heavily damaged mine - i guess this is not ideal but it doesn't matter anyway, you don't need these contacts anymore so don't feel too bad if you end up lifting the tracks.
    IMG_2092.JPG

    STEP 5:
    This is what you see after removing the LCD
    _11_.jpg

    Flip the board over and focus your attention to these points
    _12_.jpg
    These need to be removed. Unsolder the two contact points from the ribbon cable and the two posts arrowed. There is a lot of solder on the two posts so use your sucker to get the majority of it cleaned up. The posts might break off of the board. This is ok. It's going in the bin anyway.
    Remove the whole screen housing.

    STEP 6:
    Underneath are a whole bunch of LED's that used to light up your old, red and yellow, POS display. Remove all LED's using your soldering iron, wicking, sucker, tweezers. (again i lifted one of these traces (oops) but doesn't matter)
    _13_.jpg

    STEP 7:
    Flip PCB over again. Using your razorblade/scalpel knife you need to make cuts in the track at grey pin 17, 18, 19. Careful not to cut anything else!!!
    Screen Shot 2017-02-16 at 08.31.14.JPG

    STEP 8:
    Put the cluster PCB away for now and get back to the white frame.
    Make a recess in this little part of the frame. The screen butts up against the top of your cut (depth doesn't matter)

    _09_.jpg

    _10_.jpg
    Okay you're done with the white frame for now.

    STEP 9:
    This is where the fun begins. Using your blu-tack, prop the colour MFA motherboard onto the PCB to mock up your lengths of wire. Wiring diagrams as follows. #1 is always the square contact. Study this diagram and the pin out's carefully. Find them on your board so you can navigate your way around wiring everything up.
    A3 ColorMFA rev2017.jpg

    Screen Shot 2017-02-16 at 07.58.04.JPG
    (the original setup was for left hand drive cars - i found this out when the door open logo was showing PAX door open when driver's door was open. Follow this pin out setup (not the one on the drive2ru website) - i have already corrected it for RHD cars like ours)

    SO in reality the motherboard will sit like so on your cluster PCB
    Screen Shot 2017-02-10 at 18.47.05.JPG

    What i think you will find easiest (which i didn't do) is if you blu-tack the motherboard onto the cluster.
    Put the blu-tack onto the points where the screen will be double sided taped on - like so (pic below). Do this so you can mock run the wires appropriately and don't end up sticking the motherboard on with wire under it or cut lengths of wire that are too long/too short.
    _15_.jpg

    Get the wiring out and "run" the wires to their relevant contacts adding a centimetre or two to allow for error. They are quite generous with the wiring so don't be scared to use it up. You want the wires going to the blue or green connectors to run down by the tops of the two side displays and then run up to their points.
    Ideally to look something similar to this (this is an old revision of the board so don't worry if it looks slightly different to yours.)
    _19_.jpg

    STEP 10:
    Strip each end of your wires. You only need a little nubbin to be stripped back. I found i couldn't get them through if i tinned them. So i carefully twisted the ends bare, slid them through and then soldered on. Be patient & make clean joins like so (pic below).
    I would do this OFF of the cluster PCB so you don't drip excess solder onto places you don't want it. Just solder the wires onto the colour MFA motherboard NOT onto your cluster PCB. _c04_.jpg

    _c05_.jpg

    _c06_.jpg

    If you mess it up this is where the pin comes hand to be able to separate the contacts from each other.

    You don't want this...
    _w02_.jpg

    Mock it up - if you've found your wires are too long (like mine) you will need to cut, and re-strip as required. I got gung ho and soldered straight onto the cluster - leaving me a lot of re cutting and re soldering to do.
    IMG_2114.JPG

    alright! End of this step you should have something that looks like this... add the double sided tape to make a thickness of 5 layers of tape at these three points. Careful not to place it directly underneath and of the wires.
    _15_.jpg

    STEP 11:
    Mock it up again. Ensuring all your wires can reach their necessary pins, while they are routed like so
    _19_.jpg

    You can get perfect placement of the board by putting the white frame on top. The motherboard will butt up against the the very bottom of the centre part you cut before (The original outside edge of the frame where it is flat). Screen Shot 2017-02-16 at 08.27.47.JPG
    To centre the motherboard you can use the fuel gauge and coolant temp. gauge motor pins as your guide.

    STEP 12:
    Remove the white frame and solder wires onto the cluster PCB.
    The analogue/boost feed wire can be fed through one of the holes near to where the old ribbon was, along with the two speaker wires (just above the blue barcode). The 4 USB wires can routed to where the original LCD's metal bracket was. Through the "slot" (bottom RHS of the pic).
    Screen Shot 2017-02-16 at 08.39.26.JPG

    STEP 13:
    Mock up the display and place double sided tape as in the photo. You want to aim for it to sit flush with the rest of the white frame.

    _17_.jpg

    _16_.jpg


    STEP 14:
    Triple check your soldering and place your speaker in the rear like this.

    Green
    _19_1_.jpg

    Grey
    _19_2_.jpg

    Blue
    _19_3_.jpg

    Speaker placement (use hot glue gun)
    _20_.jpg

    STEP 15:
    Test... take a deep breathe with fingers, toes and pubes crossed. I did this on a bench setup so this brake light notification is normal. In the car it'll kick you to the home screen and you should be able to use your wiper stalk controls to navigate.


    STEP 16:
    Almost done! You need to put a strip of black tape at the top of the LCD like in the video above (otherwise you will get light leakage to the part under the fuel/coolant gauges).

    Secure Colour MFA to the cluster motherboard. Ensure:
    - your wires are routed through their "channels"
    - no LED's are being blocked by wires (re adjust your soldering if so)
    - the white frame clicks home
    - the Colour MFA LCD is flush OR under the level of the white frame and is centred
    - you seat the Colour MFA LCD all the way home
    - secure all your double sided tape points
    - put screen protector on Colour MFA LCD
    - hot glue gun the USB (i dremeled out that hole) and route your boost feed line like so
    IMG_2126.JPG

    You should have something like this from the front.
    _21_.jpg

    STEP 17:
    Have a stiff drink.

    STEP 18:
    Re-assmble your cluster. Ensure you calibrate your needles properly. I like doing this by aligning them to zero. Turn the ignition on and the needles will either awkwardly move to the wrong place or not. If the speedo or tacho moves, turn the car off, remove the needle and place on zero again. Keep trying until you have it right.

    STEP 19:
    Did i say you were done? Sorry i lied. Time to hook up your boost feed. Get under your bonnet and find your MAP sensor (down behind the left headlight, in front of the battery). We are tapping into wire #4. It's purple with grey (i think???) stripe.
    IMG_2129.JPG

    FullSizeRender.jpg
    I just stripped it back and soldered the tap (blue wire) and then put it back in it's trunking.

    Route your boost tap through the pollen filter/firewall grommet (requires glovebox removal) and to the back of the cluster. I used bullet quick connectors so if needed i can disconnect the boost tap from the cluster easily.
    Screen Shot 2017-02-16 at 09.13.54.JPG

    STEP 20:
    Button everything up and ENJOY life in Colour MFA!!!
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2017
  27. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Team Nogaro Blue Silver Supporter Audi S3

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    guys please let me know if things in the post don't make sense or needs clarification so i can fix it.

    ta.
     
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  28. Tj 0785

    Tj 0785 Well-Known Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User Bronze Supporter Audi S3

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    Even after reading that I'm still ain't got a clue what I'd be doing. Unfortunately I don't think I will be doing this to complicated for me and unless someone over here starts fitting them I don't think il be getting one I took electronics at gcse 3 months in they moved me to woodwork that's how good I was ha
     
  29. superkarl

    superkarl MAN OF STEEL

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    Aaaaannnnnd you've crashed the internet
     
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  30. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Team Nogaro Blue Silver Supporter Audi S3

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    It is daunting. That's for sure. But I'm sure if you took your time. And studies the process to get semi comfortable with it. You would be able to do it
     
  31. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Team Nogaro Blue Silver Supporter Audi S3

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    You should've seen what happened on an Audi performance builds group on Facebook. Omg. Still trying to keep up with messages.
     
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  32. superkarl

    superkarl MAN OF STEEL

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    This really is impressive tho. Not just the modification which is awesome (OEM+ and SUPER useful), but the write up and step by step is superb. I'm no electrics guy, I would rather rebuild a gearbox with chopsticks than tackle something like this, until I read your guide... I would tackle this for sure
     
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  34. S3 Hilife

    S3 Hilife It's an addiction Team Dolphin Grey Gold Supporter VCDS Map User Audi S3 quattro

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    Love the write up mate, easy to follow I think your advice of having a second cluster to hand is wise




    Steve
     
  35. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Team Nogaro Blue Silver Supporter Audi S3

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    dooo eeeeetttt!!!
     
  36. Dohcwp

    Dohcwp Setting the Standard Team Silver Audi A3

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    Awesome Guide Ian
     
  37. hendo#1

    hendo#1 Active Member

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    Great stuff.

    I have a facelift S3, what is stopping me buying a second set of clocks to do this on?

    Are the clocks/mileage etc coded to the ECU?
     
  38. Dohcwp

    Dohcwp Setting the Standard Team Silver Audi A3

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    both clocks and ecu keeps a record of the mileage (you can put clocks in that displays different mileage but the ecu will still record and have the true mileage of the car) you code the key to the clocks, you just need your skc or if u dont have it pull it with vag tacho, there's a guide on the ross tech site if i remember correctly.
     
  39. Roadtrain

    Roadtrain Audi S3 8L 225 "BAM" from Italy :)

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    @IanPG

    I've no words, you're incredible! Anyway, I'm able to do step 17 only, but I really appreciate your abilities and you're sharing here! ;)

    PS:

    I think this guide need a different dedicated thread too, because it'll should be more easy find it for other users in future :)
     
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  40. tcg

    tcg Well-Known Member

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    Ripper write up mate,well impressed with you're handywork.
     
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  41. mrsingh2u

    mrsingh2u Member

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    absolutely amazing!! i want one! lol.. if only i had a working S3 to slap it into!

    spot on write up - was able to follow right off the bat - hats off to you sir!
     
  42. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Team Nogaro Blue Silver Supporter Audi S3

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    Funny story.

    In the long video where you can see the clocks turn off and then only the central warning lights come on. (@ 39 seconds) Is where I flashed it with the file direct from noggie - it did not like this at all!!! It would start the car, but the speedo,tacho and side display lights didn't work. Lesson learned.

    Do NOT use a cluster pull to directly upload to another cluster haha oops.
     
  43. IanPG

    IanPG Well-Known Member Team Nogaro Blue Silver Supporter Audi S3

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    Not long...

     
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