Northampton OFN's project thread

Fitted the valve

Gave the heatshield a quick clean



And all back together
 
Good work mate are they a common thing on our engines


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Good work mate are they a common thing on our engines
They are mate if you stick it in the search its covered a few times. However there's a lot more failures on Audizine, probably cos the Americans use any old sh×t for coolant.

great work mate. keep going.

Cheers Neil I'm getting there
 
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Trial fitted one of my new 19x9's. Still sticking with the OEM+ look.



Looks like i'll need a spacer on the front, probably 5mm.
 
The fronts are off the TTS. They clear the brakes ok so the only issue is the fouling of the hub carrier but that should be easily sorted with a spacer.
The rears are ET29 from the RS4. My RS6 wheels are ET35 so I mocked up one of them on the rear with a 5mm spacer

It wasn't looking good with a 235 Goodyear on but I wanted to see just how close it would be. So I reversed that wheel on to a brick. It started to look like it might clear due to the wishbone being past its widest pivot point and the hub starting to retract/camber as it went higher. But I wasn't happy so I loaded a load of weight in the boot

And finally jacked the front right corner up

This was rediculously close toward the back of the arch and actially squeaked if i bounced the car on the boot. I wasn't worried though because the Goodyears run wide anyway so I had the choice of a skinnier tyre make or drop to 225.

Happy with the outcome I sent these two off to be refurbished as one was black and the other had a nice kerb mark




 
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Finally picked up the last two arms for a whole new front end
Set about removing





Took off the ball joint nut, subframe mount and ARB joint off but had to undo the ARB joint on the other side to get it out of the way enough to twist the control arm out


At this point I realised the arms I'd bought weren't right. No photos but the bearing that the strut fork drops over was wider on the new ones and also the chamfer on the ball joint bigger.
Anyone know which cars they'll fit?

Anyhow I had some spare time so I threw the arm back on and turned my attention to the front brakes which have been on a year now.

Starting to look a bit tired and with my new wheel setup which shows a lot more brake pending I thought it's definitely time for some detail
Stripped them down



I removed the splash guards as I've been wanting to get these powder coated silver for ages. So i'll drop these to the sandblasters

I used a bronze wire wool fitting in the drill to strip the corrosion off the discs and then coated the bells and outer edges in high temp paint, 2 coats.

I used some degreaser and then some meguiars wash anywhere to get the grime off the carriers and calipers and then did a thick coat of turtle wax to protect them

And re-assembled






Hopefully they'll still look smart come AITP time
 
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I managed to get one of those PITA jobs done the other day, you know the sort that you just put up with for ages cos you cannot be bothered. Well mine was this

For over a year that symbol has been displayed since the MOT garage pulled the wiring to the sump oil sensor and broke the +12v. I don't know why but I just couldn't bring myself to do it until now, helped along by the fact I was about to cover a 400 mile round trip with a dodgy turbo that burns plenty of oil.

A friend is putting a BAM in his bora and has a couple of spare lumps sat around (as you do) so cut me a spare bit of loom to the sensor as mine was broken too close to the connector to repair.


What do you do when you have a pit in your garage, that's right fI'll the garage with rubbish and make shift ramps on your driveway


So I cut the two remaining wires leaving plenty to crimp to

Added crimps to the new piece of loom

Then crimped in place. I offset them so the wire didn't look too fat in one place

Tightly wrapped in 2 lots of insulation tape for water tightness followed by loom tape






I turned the key in the ignition but the fault was still there. I had to start the car and wait 5 seconds for it to drop the warning

And underpan back on for the long trip
 
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Lol bet the the Audi sport health and safety team have just passed out!
 
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nice work mate, glad it wernt the sensor itself. as it would have been drop the oil in the sump. which aint such a bad thing. never the less nice one mate.
 
My long trip went with no problems. The car didnt miss a beat as usual. It has however finished off what was already a clicky L/h driveshaft so that needs sorting before I drive to Wales on Tuesday.

Back to the wheels then.
Wheels back from the refurbishes.


In the meantime I had ordered up a 225 and fitted it to one of the RS4 wheels and test fitted.

I wasn't worried about the fronts because I was on a high offset to start with so I could run whatever spacers I need but the back was already aggressive so needed to get it right.

The Achilles ATR stretched nicely and missed the arch. Happy days, so I ordered three more.

After delivery I got all the tyres mounted and fitted all new centres.

And on the car


I'm using a 15mm spacer on the front leaving around 7 or 8mm between rim and upright.


I will see how it drives and if I like the look, if not I can always change them out. That leaves my specs at 19x9 F ET37 R ET29 which are fairly aggressive. Just need more lows now :racer:

And one in the sun after a quick clean
 
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Always love those wheels on a b6,good work fella!
 
looking good mate. have you sorted the driveshaft yet.?

Hi Neil, I'd ordered one from GSF website which I collected yesterday but the website said it would be a GKN (reputable make) but the one I got is a GS▪P which I've brought home but after some research online I'm not sure I want to fit it as they're not reliable seemingly. Gonna ring GSF tomorrow and see how long the guarantee is on it, if over 3 years then i'll give it a try
 
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Looking good mate I'm sure you could get a little bit more lows in there somewhere lol


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Hi Neil, I'd ordered one from GSF website which I collected yesterday but the website said it would be a GKN (reputable make) but the one I got is a GS▪P which I've brought home but after some research online I'm not sure I want to fit it as they're not reliable seemingly. Gonna ring GSF tomorrow and see how long the guarantee is on it, if over 3 years then i'll give it a try


hi mate yes ive red they havent got a very good reputation, i would hunker for the gkn shaft if iam honest.
 
Right then, where are we up to? I lost a fair bit of progress when I took my old phone into a swimming pool with me :salute: Had a few snaps on my work phone from after a clean though:





 
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I went on holiday for a few weeks and got back with 5 evenings left until AITP8, a dirty car in need of serious detailing & a rusty front n/s wing.

So I started by removing all the carbon from the exhaust tips. I bought a brass brush for the drill to remove the tough stuff and followed up with polishing.


Then I 3-staged the whole car









I then ran the car down to Greg's (S3Greg on here) body shop which is about 3 minutes from my house it turns out. He matched the colour and we arranged that he'd supply and colour a wing and colour (blow in) up the passenger door.











Not many photos as it got late and I was rushing.
 
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On the Saturday morning ofAITP I convoyed in with a few B6UK guys and they got some rolling shots on the motorway



And someone caught me cleaning once on the field.




Unfortunately that's where the fun ended for me. My Gf lost our only house key during a night out on Saturday and we couldn't get in to get the Audi key so I ended up missing the Sunday. The car just sat on the drive, the cleanest she'd been since I've owned her..
 
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On the Saturday morning ofAITP I convoyed in with a few B6UK guys and they got some rolling shots on the motorway



And someone caught me cleaning once on the field.




Unfortunately that's where the fun ended for me. My Gf lost our only house key during a night out on Saturday and we couldn't get in to get the Audi key so I ended up missing the Sunday. The car just sat on the drive, the cleanest she'd been since I've owned her..

Oh mate I didn't realise that what a Shame


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Thanks mate. I'm West Hunsbury NN4. Good luck with the search, get a B6 :friendly wink:
 
Great read mate, the only thing during the cam belt change you didn't change that I would've is the vacuum hose from the N249 to the Diverter valve. looks past it's best. Has a nice stance.
 
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Thanks mate, indeed yeah I'll have to sort that perishing old thing! I wonder if that has anything to do with her not starting first time currently..
 
Thanks mate, indeed yeah I'll have to sort that perishing old thing! I wonder if that has anything to do with her not starting first time currently..
It could draw air through it but you'd be experiencing boost problems as well. The favourite for poor starting are the crank angle sensor also known as engine speed sensor, the other is the fuel pump relay located in the ECU housing. Next time it fails to start watch the rev counter, if it's the crank angle sensor the needle won't move at all.
 
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I'll have a go tonight. Yesterday it was cold out and it took four attempts. On attempts 2 and 3 it started and promptly died. Ideally I would just plug it in but I don't have a tool

Cheers
 
I'll have a go tonight. Yesterday it was cold out and it took four attempts. On attempts 2 and 3 it started and promptly died. Ideally I would just plug it in but I don't have a tool

Cheers
You can buy a lead off EBay and download the freeware version called VCDS Lite this will allow you to pull codes.
 
Just to update this a bit, the starting issue turned out to be a faulty coolant temp sensor on the coolant flange. A mate of mine flashed the codes and nothing came up but what we did notice was that the coolant was registering at 89 degrees C with the engine off (for a few days) and it was 0 degrees outside. On removing the sensor i found it to be a pattern part so replaced it with a genuine one and not had a problem since. The faulty sensor was telling the ecu that the engine was already hot and therefore barely any fuel was being thrown in. The worrying thing is that the temp stayed at 90 regardless of actual temperature so the rad fans wouldn't come on. I'm not sure how long this has been the case but hopefully no damage has been done.


Anyway the Turbo has started burning even more oil so that needs doing soon, luckily car working season is just around the corner so i'm starting to put the supporting mods together..

In the meantime the car faultlessly got me down to Dorset:
 
Looks like the twin of mine! Votex in Denim Blue Pearl.

Keep up the good work.
 
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Supporting mods for the turbo are piling up...

Got a o/s intercooler and necessary pipework from a 190.


SAI delete cap.


De-cat






Just need to decide on injectors and get a DV, probably going to go with the 007 forge just to be original. The plan is to delete the SAI and fit the second intercooler as a "phase 1". I'm a bit dubious to link up the o/s intercooler yet though because my current turbo is chucking out so much oil and I don't want to clog it up so i'll just fit it in place and then add the hoses when i do the turbo.

I'm not sure if the engine will run after all the hardware is bolted up (maybe someone knows?) due to the extra boost but if not i'll get a tow, either way i'll be getting the car to a reputable mapper for getting the best out of all the hardware. Not really looking for all out power from the software edit, just want a nice smooth curve with the torque peaking halfway through the rev range for drive-ability.
 
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I'd imagine it'll run after the bolt on's have been fitted, it'll hold boost in the upper rev range longer due to the hybrid but it'll still only boost to stock 1.8t levels due to the stock map .... at least that's my understanding.

I would have thought the S3/TT225 injectors would be a good choice due to availability/cost.
 
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I'd imagine it'll run after the bolt on's have been fitted, it'll hold boost in the upper rev range longer due to the hybrid but it'll still only boost to stock 1.8t levels due to the stock map .... at least that's my understanding.

I would have thought the S3/TT225 injectors would be a good choice due to availability/cost.

Thanks for that mate. I've heard that some 225 engine codes had longer injectors fitted and that they're preferable.. I'll have to look into it.
 
love the new turbo mate really sorry I've had so much going on looking for the injector paper work had just slipped my mind mate i will look for you later mate
 
Hi..

Old Nick is right, at least in relation to me. When I thought about it, I realised that I do pronounce it posman. Well-spotted, that man!
 
Looking good mate! :happy: really good read.

How are the Meyle HD arms? Tempted to get a set myself as mine are shot but seeing mixed reviews.
 
Yes, agreed with all above. Great read and mods keep it up!

Cannot wait for you to fit the Hybrid.

Are you going to port the manifold, or get a new one or leave it alone completely?

Reason i ask is that the hybrid wont be able to see past circa 270 bhp without doing the above.

If its not too late, go with Forge 008 its supposed to be fantastic and better than its predecessor. Im having mine installed as we speak.
 
Looking good mate! :happy: really good read.

How are the Meyle HD arms? Tempted to get a set myself as mine are shot but seeing mixed reviews.

Thanks mate! Not had any problems with the Meyle arms personally but don't really do many miles.

Yes, agreed with all above. Great read and mods keep it up!

Cannot wait for you to fit the Hybrid.

Are you going to port the manifold, or get a new one or leave it alone completely?

Reason i ask is that the hybrid wont be able to see past circa 270 bhp without doing the above.

If its not too late, go with Forge 008 its supposed to be fantastic and better than its predecessor. Im having mine installed as we speak.

Hi mate, at this stage I won't be porting the manifold. Looking for a reliable 250-260hp with a smooth delivery for now.. In the fuure though, who knows, maybe a tubular mani..
Thanks for the comments :smile new:
 
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