non audi owner - detailing advice

colin rowbotham

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Hi All

Hopefully you can help, I was pointed to this forum but someone as you guys are more friendly than another detailing forum Ive been having problems with activation on.

I dont have an Audi but still hope its ok to post on here.

Ive finally got a car I am proud to drive and want to keep it that way so am after some advice about the best way and products to do the job.

The car colour is metallic silver if that makes any difference?

OK so here goes, I want something thats going to tidy the paint work up at first, remove swirlies, and deal with the few light scuffs here and there. Then obviously I want to get the car shineing like alot of yours have the mirror finish to protect the paint work.

I live in an area with loads of seagulls so at the moment every few days I have to rub bird cr*p off the car which I do straight away when I notice it as I know that stuff can damage the paintwork.

So I know its abit vague but too be honest thats why I came on here and hopefully you can advise me abit.

thanks in advance.

Colin
 
The only way to remove swirls completely is by machine polishing, using multiple stages if its really bad with various polishing pads + compounds. I would recommend getting your car detailed by someone local to you with a good reputation (Check out http://www.pro-valets.co.uk). They will be able to get rid of the swirls, thoroughly decontaminate and seal the paintwork. It will then be really easy to clean going forward. Enhancement details are usually around £200 - £400 mark but can vary. Don't trust a backstreet 'while you wait' style valet or "mop" with a machine polisher as they typically do more damage than good.

Otherwise your best bet is using a polish which will fill the scratches - Autoglym Super Resin Polish is really good at this. You won't be able to get things perfect by hand but you will be able to significantly reduce the scratches. To make it last longer you can then put a layer of wax ontop, or autoglym extra gloss protection which is a sealant.

If your car is covered with bird crap, rubbing them off is the worst thing you can do. Best thing to do is get a bit of kitchen roll, wet it and let it sit ontop of the droppings for a few minutes. It will soften it and should then wipe off much easier.

For more info have a look at the FAQs etc on www.detailingworld.com, but be careful as this detailing stuff can get addictive!
 
Thanks Chrise, Appreciate your reply.

OK will get those products and give it ago myself first and if the results arent good enough then I can look into the link you gave me.

thanks again

Colin
 
I live on the promenade so feel your pain with seaguls. I have a packet of baby wipes in the boot, cover and wipe off after. Failing that wet wash
 
ok guys I had the day off on Monday so gave the car a decent detailing.

Rinse with Jetwash
Wash with shampoo using two bucket method (took some getting used to!) but may look into this foam stuff I hear alot about.
Rinsed with jetwash
Clay bar the whole car with supplied lubricant
Shampoo again
Rinse with jetwash
Dry with microfibre towel
Polish with Autoglym SRP
Buffed by hand
Protected with Autoglym EGP
Buffed by hand

Whole process took about 3 hours and I have to say, although tiring it was very enjoyable and I love the results. Paintwork feels like glass, looks great and hopefully will stay protected longer now.

Want to maybe use snow foam but dont want to use it with pressure washer so can it be used with a pump type sprayer and any brand to buy or stear clear of?
 
I started detailing my own car - need to take into account that products are very much a personal thing - although a lot of products are aligned with certain colours, I decided to trawl through various detailing forums and chose the products relating to:

  • Feedback/Experience from various detailing and car forums
  • Ease of application
  • Price
  • Results (personal view after use/application)
The following is the process I do - Spring and Autumn (note that I use a DAS6 Pro):
  • Pressure wash inner wheel arches and wheels
  • Wheels - Spray Bilberry Wheel Cleaner
  • Rinse wheels (power washer)
  • Rinse with normal garden hose spray
  • Snow Foam, leave for 5-10 mins - CarPro Iron X
  • Rinse with normal garden hose spray
  • Wash - two bucket method with Meq Gold Wash
  • Rinse with normal garden hose spray
  • Clay with ClayMit with Meq Quick Detailer as a lubricant (or use normal clay bar/kit)
  • Wash - two bucket method Rinse with normal garden hose spray
  • Pat Dry - using Chemical Guys Wooly Mammoth
  • Tape/Mask off areas as required
  • Swirl Removal/Correction with Meg 105 Green Hex pad and DAS
  • Remove Meg 105 excess with Microfibre cloth
  • Apply PoorBoys - Black Hole with Red Hex pad and DAS
  • Buff off with Ultimate Ultra-Plush Buffing Cloth
  • Apply Jetseal 109 - leave for 20mins,
  • Buff off with Ultimate Ultra-Plush Buffing Cloth
  • Apply Jet Seal 109 to alloy wheels (Normally I change over my wheels winter/summer)
  • Apply PoorBoys Nattys Blue Liquid with Red Hex pad and DAS
  • Clean all windows with Gtechniq G4 Glass Nano Polish
  • Buff off with Ultimate Ultra-Plush Buffing Cloth
  • Apply Gtechniq - Gtechniq C4 to black plastic
  • Apply Meg NXL Metal Polysh - to Crome/Metal Areas
  • Apply Meg High Gloss Tyre Gel
  • Interior Leather cleaned with Meg GC Rich Leatehr Cleaner & Conditioning Gel
Pending size of car and if I have to sort out any scratches - approx time 5-8hours by myself.

How long does the finish last - well this can be varied but I dont not take my car to any auto or handwash - always do it at home and I am careful that I only use PH Neutral snow foam and only pat dry as this helps keep the swirls away.

OCD - absolutly :)
 
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WOW thats some routine. Not sure I will do all that but who knows as I loved doing it.

The snow foam which Im thinking of getting, I take it that actually replaces shampoo stage??
 
Snowfoam is a pre-wash stage. You get a few products on the market that also give an effective prewash also. However they may effect the overall durability of the last stage protection on your car. I did this a few months ago to try the differences out http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=357105

The 2 bucket method i.e. one bucket with shampoo and another with water to rinse your mit / sponge / pad before moving onto another panel is also very effective. A shampoo that lifts and lubricates the panel is also important. As mentioned above is gets addictive and expensive quickly. £50 quid for a couple of buckets, quality shampoo and drying aid soon turns into ££££
 
Be aware as to which snow from you use, if you have polished/waxed you don't want to use a snow foam that will strip all I.e. Use a PH Nuetral but if you have not waxed the most snow foams would be ok.
 

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