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Noise when turning steering wheel

John417 Apr 5, 2018

  1. Samuel c5 Q

    Samuel c5 Q Active Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User

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    It could be the alignment fighting against itself. My alignemt needs set in the cordoba. I can feel it steering one way and then the other. It is more noticeable in the wet.

    Yes, alignment will need done after the suspension has been worked at. Some places do the free alignment check and if it is out you can get them to adjust it. I don't know if you have magowans tyres over there.

    Jack up the corner that you suspect and check the brake and the wheel bearing for drag.
     
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  3. John417

    John417 Cactus Green A4 B5 TQS

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    I did check the side where i think the caliper is sticking yesterday while doing the shocks and it was kinda hard to rotate the disc and also you know when you remove a wheel the disc is usually slightly loose on the hub if it doesnt have the disc screwed to the hub but that side is held on the hub as if it was screwed on so im pretty sure the caliper is sticking so its holding the disc in place with the pads being pushed against it ill have it checked by a garage tomorrow im just hoping that the caliper and alignment will completely fix it already cause i finally want to drive the car and enjoy it instead of just trying to figure out the issue.
     
  4. S4_dan

    S4_dan Fire up the Quattro! VCDS Map User

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    +1 on having a full alignment check done after any suspension work.

    Is the subframe in the correct position? And the subframe bushes all good?
     
  5. Samuel c5 Q

    Samuel c5 Q Active Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User

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    Push the caliper piston back in fully and clean down the slide pins and check the slide pin bellows.
     
  6. John417

    John417 Cactus Green A4 B5 TQS

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    I was replacing the disc's and pads about two weeks ago and used grease on the slide pins gave it a good brush and it was fine for like a day or maybe it was the fact that i didnt drive it long enough that day cause it usually does it when im either braking hard or driving for over 20 minutes but it seems to me that its getting worse and worse now but im not sure if it is the caliper thats causing the steering feel issues its like i dont really get much feedback from the steering wheel , also the subframe bushes should be fine im not getting any engine movement while moving the steering wheel but thats about the only thing i can check , what other ways are there to check the bushes ? I tried moving the steering wheel today like i did on the video in my first message and its making that noise slightly more now like i dont have to turn the wheel that much to hear that sound now if it was the uj at the steering column why would the garage tell me that the play is minimal and should not be noticeable but then again what else could it be cause its coming from inside the car so it must be either something on the steering column or the steering rack ?

    BTW Happy birthday Dan
     
  7. aragorn

    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    the steering racks all clack if you wiggle the wheel like that, its just a tiny bit of play in the rack and pinion. My refurbished rack is exactly the same.

    You need to get the caliper replaced and the alignment checked before trying to diagnose any steering issues.
     
  8. John417

    John417 Cactus Green A4 B5 TQS

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    I've been working overtimes lately so didnt really have time to sort anything out and i was just getting really tired from trying to find out what the problem is so needed some time off been using my other car as a daily now. Im hoping to get the caliper and alignment done next week but im pretty sure the loose steering will still be there. Im thinking i will replace the inner tie rods since im getting the alignment done anyway , will i need the special tool for that or is there a way to remove the 34mm tie rod without it ?
     
  9. aragorn

    aragorn "Stick a V8 in it!" Staff Member Moderator VCDS Map User

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    two large spanners is what i used. You need one to hold the rack, and the other to turn the inner balljoint.

    Big adjustables would do.
     
  10. John417

    John417 Cactus Green A4 B5 TQS

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    Alright so i've got a new brake caliper installed , wheel alignment done the camber is still all wrong obviously but toe was adjusted. Still the same problem and my steering wheel still turns to the left on its own sometimes so that was not due to the sticking caliper , having read a couple of information it looks like this could be due to loose bearing in the steering rack ? Now that makes sense but i dont understand whether the bearing can be changed on its own or the entire steering rack ? I dont know anymore somany things replaced and still nothing and not a single mechanic can figure this out i even had a dream about this already :D thats how its stressing me out i mean i like working on my car i look forward to it but there's a line between fun and exhausting and this is seriously starting to mess with my head , what is this why is the steering so bad i dont even remember what the car actually feels like when its driving as it should i still love it but i just want to fix this and have a normal car that handles like it should and not like its got 3 wheels.
     
  11. John417

    John417 Cactus Green A4 B5 TQS

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    Also i think my clutch is very close to dying i noticed today when i was getting out of a parking spot i put it in 1st gear get the clutch to bite and hold it at the biting point move a bit then press the clutch in to put it in reverse the revs went up to nearly 2k and stayed there for like 2 seconds so basically with the clutch all the way in it did this , it did it couple of times before but i didnt realise it was to do with the clutch i thought it might be engine related. But anyway ill be buying a new clutch kit and flywheel but i really want the biting point to be a lot lower they the original im sure that a new clutch will bite lower then the old one does but i dont think it will be as low as id want it to bite so are they any clutch kits that are designed for this but dont cost a fortune? Cheers.
     
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  13. John417

    John417 Cactus Green A4 B5 TQS

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    Im thinking ill replace the steering column aswell if ill be changing the steering rack , how hard is it to replace the column ? Or howmuch would a garage take approx. ?
     
  14. Samuel c5 Q

    Samuel c5 Q Active Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User

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    Have a go at the column yourself, it's not that hard and I think you'd enjoy it. Get the car up on stands at the front and put the steering dead ahead with the steering lock on. Get someone to hold the steering wheel against the lock and you get down and pull the wheel left and right etc to check for play. Do this on passenger side and driver side. If there is play you'll feel the knock probably before you hear it.
     
  15. John417

    John417 Cactus Green A4 B5 TQS

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    Thanks Samuel , i tried that and all i noticed was that i could move the wheels very slightly left and right the track rod ends were moving aswell but these are new , im pretty sure it has something to do with the steering rack cause its getting worse and worse but the suspension is okay. Im getting the car into a garage tomorrow to remove the steering rack and check it properly and replace if needed and check the steering column properly aswell. I took the car on a motorway yesterday just to see what happens at certain speeds and there's this slight vibration at around 70mph but its really a tiny bit of vibration but it made me think about the wheels cause it cant be the brake discs these are new , the suspension is all fine so im thinking either balance the wheels or a buckled wheel ill get that checked tomorrow aswell.
     
  16. Samuel c5 Q

    Samuel c5 Q Active Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User

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    Inner tie rod? Check all your cv joints inner and outer but more than likely an out of balance wheel. Hope you get her sorted.
     
  17. John417

    John417 Cactus Green A4 B5 TQS

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    I did want to change the inner tie rods but didnt get to it cause the only one i could get would be from euro car parts and i dont want to use them for anything anymore but i will replace these over the weekend hopefully , will order some online. You mention the cv joints , what made you think these might be faulty ? Im asking cause i was thinking that the problem might not even be steering/suspension related that it might have to do something with the transmission but i always figured the cv joints cause a clicking noise when turning cause i remember i had that issue once on the audi , but i do notice sometimes very rarely there's this clunk from the back when i move off and i remember that sometimes when i was accelerating on full throttle from 1st gear , as i shifted to the 2nd ( the moment i let off the clutch ) the clunk was pretty loud but it only happened when i was driving it really hard and always figured its cause the clutch isnt at its best anymore. I just need to sort the steering/handling issue and as soon as that's done i want to replace/improve a lot of parts i just have to sort this handling problems already.
     
  18. Samuel c5 Q

    Samuel c5 Q Active Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User

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    Check the rear diff hanger. What about the prop shaft? I know you can get an aftermarket prop shaft bearing but is there one from the factory. The clunk could be exhaust striking something maybe. Could be bouncing off a valance. You need to get out the pry bars and have a wiggle.
     
  19. John417

    John417 Cactus Green A4 B5 TQS

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    So i just picked the car up from a garage and again no problem they didnt remove the steering rack but they said they're sure its fine the only issue they found was that the wheels have these spacers , not spacers to get them looking wide but the centre bore spacers and that might be causing the camber issue but thats nonsense cause these were on since i bought the car and camber was never wrong before but i will try different wheels on the car see if that does anything if it does then ill just buy some wheels cause the ones on are weak replicas anyway i had to weld a tiny crack already , ill change the inner tie rods when the weather gets better and see what that does but what i really want to do is change the antiroll bar and the lower arms then see if that fixes the camber if not ill have to let audi adjust the subframe.
     
  20. Samuel c5 Q

    Samuel c5 Q Active Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User

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    Spigot ring is required, it's important and can affect how the wheel sits.

    Anti roll bar can greatly affect handling.

    Only replace the inner tie rods if they are faulty or if you know their mileage is high then you could do it as part of the service and for peace of mind.
     
  21. John417

    John417 Cactus Green A4 B5 TQS

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    Thanks mate , what antiroll bar would you suggest ? I wanted to do the s4 rear antiroll bar upgrade but some say the car is then tail happy i dont want that im getting a bmw for that what i want from the audi is great grip in all conditions but minimum understeer obviously. Also the inner tie rods are propably really old cause i never replaced them in nearly 6 years never really had to but im gonna change them cause i did them on my seat toledo work horse and it made a huge difference to the steering feel it felt much tighter and a little bit heavier which is nice i hate when the steering is too light which at the moment it is on my audi , ill see tomorrow how the car feels with 17 inch wheels with good year tyres that are nearly new cause the tyres i bought few months ago are really bad in wet it could be cause of the issues that the car has (no one knows what the issues are :D ) but they can slide pretty easily on heavy rain i used to have falken ziex and these had somuch grip in the wet that it actually griped better on wet roads then dry.
     
  22. Samuel c5 Q

    Samuel c5 Q Active Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User

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    It's a balancing act fella on the anti roll bars, I haven't decided yet what I'm going to do with my Quattro. Front wheel drive is easy, standard or just slightly stiffer front with a moderately stiffer rear. Rear wheel drive cars tend to require an increase in front bar stiffness. Four wheel drive cars are a combination of both. I will be going for dialling out understeer which usually involves stiffening the rear slightly and keeping the front standard.

    Have a look at this site. https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Anti-Roll-Bars-How-to-choose-the-right-sway-bar-for-your-car

    I need to get my lpg conversion swapped over from the donor car first and get her going to start with lol.
     
  23. John417

    John417 Cactus Green A4 B5 TQS

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    Thanks mate , i have been reading threads about this and it seems like the quattro needs the rear sway bar upgraded the front one is fine atleast thats what most people say and it makes sense really cause even the its an all wheel drive car its set up to understeer especially with the engine way up front. I bought a bmw e46 for now as my daily and i will be making the tqs mint slowly it would be a lot easier if id just know whats causing the problems im having but what ever , i drove the car today and its a lot worse i think the first thing ill change will be the steering rack cause i got a feeling that the problem is in there somewhere , also noticed that after driving in a stop and go traffic for 20 minutes i tried to move off on an up hill and i heard this sound and i even felt it it was like something jumped a tooth , i know the clutch/flywheel is on its way out slowly but this felt a little bit like a gearbox problem but its weird its only doing it if driven in stop and go traffic in a hot weather for some time the whole car feels like sh..t then brakes , perfomance etc and its not even the hot weather its mostly when driving in town for like 30 minutes as soon as the oil temp reaches 80-90 the car then is slower and overall just feels tired worn out.. Im gonna need atleast £2k to make it mint again but im being picky really i mean they are old cars cant expect them to run like new.
     
  24. Samuel c5 Q

    Samuel c5 Q Active Member Silver Supporter VCDS Map User

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    Use vcds lite, registered, to monitor the vitals when she feels like that. Check water/oil temperature, boost pressure with MAF and timing pull or ignition advance as I think it's properly referred to. Do this when cold and warm when you think it's playing up to see if there is a difference.
     

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