New to me S3: Battery cover and fixings?

[ChrisH370]

Hi,
Just bought a 2000 S3 8L a week ago and seeing what needs fixing.
The battery trim cover is missing and can be sourced via TPS but the LHS support where the bolt attaches has a gaping hole in between the fork where a nut holder should be fitted. Any suggestions what part(s) is missing or has it been cut out?
Previous owner said the battery is slightly too long hence nylon dirt cover isn't fitted. Maybe trim cover wouldn't fit either.
No record of the Haldex oil and filter having been changed in last 20/40k, is it worth doing?
Other, slight pixel drop out on radio station IDs on DIS and volume control very sensitive, I can live with.

 

[<tuffty/>]

There is a link in the stickies (called Looking for part numbers? Parts Database for the Audi A3, S3, 1997 to date) to a parts catalogue which is essentially the same data VAG dealers use... you will be able to find the part numbers you need there

The covers are in the engine section...

Haldex oil change is always worth doing if its unknown when it was last done

The previous owner bought the wrong battery... most places I have seen specify a battery thats too large for the S3... its a type 027 you need...

<tuffty/>

 

[ChrisH370]

There is a link in the stickies (called Looking for part numbers? Parts Database for the Audi A3, S3, 1997 to date) to a parts catalogue which is essentially the same data VAG dealers use... you will be able to find the part numbers you need there

The covers are in the engine section...

Haldex oil change is always worth doing if its unknown when it was last done

The previous owner bought the wrong battery... most places I have seen specify a battery thats too large for the S3... its a type 027 you need...

<tuffty/>

thanks tufftey, is the battery worth changing for the 027 as I guess the radio will loose its coding if it's disconnected, only a year old ?
Also is the haldex accessible using rear axle stands getting under the back as I don't want to pay to use bloke's ramps and time?
power steering needed top up otherwise all good. Need to clean the headlamp yellowing,is it true toothpaste does the job?
Found a receipt for an MRC generic map they said should + 50 BHP.

 

[<tuffty/>]

The Audi TT Forum :: View topic - Haldex oil and filter change WITH photos =)

Up to you if you want to change the battery but the 027 is the right size...

Code for the radio should be in the owners manual or stereo manual if you have it... I know my 2001 facelift S3 retains the code if it loses the battery power as the instruments remember the code once done... if you try fitting it into a different car though it would ask for the code..

I don't know if the 2000 pre-facelifts do this though

I'd take what the figures are with a pinch of salt dude... generic maps rarely do the figures they suggest as the cars are now a little older and more worn...

<tuffty/>

 

[ChrisH370]

Yes, I know what you mean, it certainly has some real mid range go up to 5k. Compared to a vRS I had the torque comes in later though, guess that's the K04 spool up.
Will check how much the battery costs as it's looks a mess without the cover.
Thanks for the TT link with the haldex pics, that looks doable as long as not in hurry which I would be on someone's ramps.
Any ideas about cleaning headlamp discolouring? Roof rail on one side have some rust bubbles but not inclined to spend a future on bodywork.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Yes, I know what you mean, it certainly has some real mid range go up to 5k. Compared to a vRS I had the torque comes in later though, guess that's the K04 spool up.
Will check how much the battery costs as it's looks a mess without the cover.
Thanks for the TT link with the haldex pics, that looks doable as long as not in hurry which I would be on someone's ramps.
Any ideas about cleaning headlamp discolouring? Roof rail on one side have some rust bubbles but not inclined to spend a future on bodywork.

Headlight restoration thread can be found in the FAQs link in the stickies... there is also a link to the anti corrosion warrenty thread that may be of interest... rusty roof rails is a common fault on 8L's

<tuffty/>

 

[ChrisH370]

Tuffty,

Going back to the Haldex thread you referred me to, I can't where the refill plug is for the new oil, it implies its done through the drain plug but that can't be right as the oil would drain straight back out again unless there is some sort of non return valve. I have seen use of an oil gun with a plastic plpe attached but I dont have one of those and it doesn't show where the filler is located. Assume the rear diff. drain plug is different from the Haldex diff. so you only drain the one sump not the main diff. as this is not shown in the TT thread.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Tuffty,

Going back to the Haldex thread you referred me to, I can't where the refill plug is for the new oil, it implies its done through the drain plug but that can't be right as the oil would drain straight back out again unless there is some sort of non return valve. I have seen use of an oil gun with a plastic plpe attached but I dont have one of those and it doesn't show where the filler is located. Assume the rear diff. drain plug is different from the Haldex diff. so you only drain the one sump not the main diff. as this is not shown in the TT thread.

You fill from the drain hold mate... sad but true... you just need to be quick transitioning from the oil to the plug... don't apply too much torque when tightening either as you will rip the threads out...

The plastic pipe is a bit of suitable sized hose (I have used silicon vac pipe in the past) and you essentially cut the nozzle of the oil in half, splice the rubber hose in so that you can hold the caulking gun at 90 degrees to the haldex as there won't be enough room to fit an extended caulking gun under the haldex to fill it on ramps/axle stands... its really designed to be done on a lift ramp

Here is another link
Changing the Audi Quatro Haldex diff oil filter

<tuffty/>

 

[ChrisH370]

Thanks Tuffty,

I gave Peter Cooper (who's site is in the link) a call to see how much they charge to do the oil and filter because of this stupid refill design as I'm unlikely to get any further use from buying the £20 filter removal tool. Im thinking one hour's labour on a ramp.

This begs the question does anyone know any good S3 specialists in the south east, as in the longer term I need to get the cam belt, tensioners and water pump done for piece of mind although the coolant is very clear so must have ben changed recently.

Also which do you reckon is the best headlamp refurb. kit with the wet and dry, intend to spray with clear cote so Ive read on US sites.

Are there any members in Sussex or Surrey who have a meet-up, that would be a good way to get more familiar with the technical side?

 

[rupe]

It's helpful to have another pair of hands if servicing the haldex on axle stands or whatever, but it's not a bad job, I done like tuffty suggested and used a short piece of hose on the end of the tube.You can also refill it through the level check hole further up and on the side, you can't get a caulking gun in their though, so a long screwdriver/rod is required to push the oil out of the tube.

With regards to the lights it depends how bad they are to start with, I went all the way down to 600 wet and dry paper and then up in various grades until 2500 I think, then rubbing compound and finally a polish and I wouldn't want to be spraying them with lacquer or anything after as this will only chip/wear off and require you to do it again sooner, some clear film applied to them would be better, something like this CAR HEADLAMP TINT FILM | eBay

 

[<tuffty/>]

There is a thread in the FAQs with ideas for headlight restoration

<tuffty/>

 

[ChrisH370]

Yes, thanks seen that and several others of interest such as Haldex.
Need to get under the car and check that the wiring is in place. No idea whether it's even working, any simple way to check?
There is no clear favourite heaps light kit and the last post implied to just buy some wet and dry sheets and rubbing compound.
The lights are moderately opaque but wasn't an MOT issue. No point in doing them without some kind of sealer, film x is an option.