new s3 amk owner looking for inspiration

[Stuart B]

Hi I bought a replacement toy (project I expect) for my old v6 s-type jag MOT failure. And thought I would introduce myself with clearly a list of issues encountered so far.
I know it's not organised but and all future items will. Simple might just know an answer straight away. I have looked through some of the forum already.

What I have is 2001 S3 amk.
Stage1 remap
Variable booster tap in engine
Aftermarket air filter
I think it has a forge dump valve too
I changed plugs and a coil since misfire after 2 days of ownership.
Also ensured only put in super unleaded, and a petrol treatment.
It is running well, although untidy between gear changes and the release between gears sounds scrapey?


I have some cosmetics to do
Door blade - needs drilling off I expect and the runners repaired.
Trim in boot
Air con regas

Faults to fix
Occasional abs/esp lights appear, usually if I floor it. Might be the abs module dry solder joint? Although if possibly wheel sensor I can replace those.

Smells of oil in the cabin if stationary.
There was a damaged pipe between oil filter and hockey puck, just taped up. But am considering the pvs catch can to atmos solution. Does this get rid of all the little pipes above cylinder 3 and 4 or is that a different mod?

Car feels weird at speed.
I will check the rears for bearings and brake binding tomorrow.

Brakes seem a little soft to me and the handbrake is poor.

Well anyway it certainly seems like it will be a project, but something to hold its value if looked after.

 

[Stuart B]

Also it has a double din symphony but the CD player is faulty so I ask looking to decide whether to change to single din with an a3 2003 adapter. Leaving the Bose speaker system working too.

 

[S3 Hilife]

Good choice with your new car I had a 3.0L V6 X Type before I bought my S3 and loved that too.

Have you scanned it for faults yet, that will give you a good idea of whats going on aswell as your ABS fault.
The oil smell is probably due to the collapsed breather pipes so its a good idea to get that replaced or fit a catch can.
The pipes your referring to on the cam cover is for the N249 valve which can easily be deleted to reduce boost leaks and tidy up the bay a little. The N249 delete thread in stickies will help.

I assume you're referring to a "bleed valve" when you say variable booster tap if so be careful with these as they can cause boost spikes and not a very popular mod with these cars

You'll soon get hooked with the S3 as everyone does as you will find some great info on here

Steve

 

[S3 Hilife]

Btw, have you got any pics of your car

 

[Stuart B]

Hi,

Thanks for your replies, I am working my way through manufacturers still - this is my first Audi but it is fun, it is quite nice having a relatively basic car - and perhaps one that if looked after my actually hold its value.

I have uploaded a couple of pics.

Today I took off the iffy door blade, only two of the nylon insert bits were still intact, hence the reason the previous owner had badly stuck it on. I have tried to make some from some curtain runners and will try and connect it tomorrow after the glued patches to screw into at each end are set - to be honest the rubber seal is shot so it will never be a good fit back.

I also gave it an oil change, obviously with new filter but also with an engine flush, which I have never in all my 28 years of driving cars, done before (fingers crossed), there was oil leaking near (hopefully from) the plug and washer so that was replaced too - maybe that was the oil burning smell? noticed no splash guard either - not sure of the urgency there.

I tried to recharge the air con, but am not sure it is working - I connected to the pipe near the radiator on the drivers side (uk) and it showed 25-35 pressure and filled it with about 25% of the can from Halfords (should be enough for 3 or 4 cars). but it is not blowing out cold air in the car.

I will try and track the exact route of the tap, it is basically connected to 8mm nipple on the turbo above cylinder 2, I have tried it all the way in and half out - not sure of the difference? maybe more waste noise but shorter boost? I joined out android torque to see if the PSI was difference but it is difficult to see really around 30 psi - is that normal, too much or too little?
This is my first performance car with a turbo - so I am just trying to learn about them.

I'm going to check the fuses above the battery as they are apparently a common intermittent ABS / ESP module failure - but the ODB reader and Android Torque cannot see the ABS faults - is this VAGCOM I should be obtaining? Incidentally since changing the plugs and the coil I don't have any fault codes in the ECU.

Also I am going to try and remove the stereo - tomorrow - just to practice (and to see if I can fix the cup holder) - replacement is a priority not because I am a stereo nutter it will just do my head in if I know the CD player isn't working - the radio struggles with MW too - okay for radio 1 and heart etc. but I am aware that it is not a simple matter of throwing in a new one - eg it needs to be compatible with the AMP in the boot, is that right? also no one seems to do a facia replacement for a double din to single din or even a double din for a 2001 S3 with a double din. getting a replacement Audi Symphony is about £100! I might consider just getting a MP3 / IPOD lead if necessary which are about £35

Blimey that was a long reply - sorry

Stuart

Pics - it looks nice

 

[Stuart B]

Hi this is what I have, I think it is a manual boost controller.

with it set to full - the boost starts from about 3K and finishes at about 4.5K with it less it is spread over a bit more maybe up to 5.5K but less "intense" lets say.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Produ...s2jrFt6QnqUl9OFqLG5VCK18r-YGevpb-kaAiyB8P8HAQ

I need to get a new pipe as it seems an important part but is only taped onto the turbo, I need an adapter and some bigger pipe as this is only 5mm and the turbo pipe is 8mm maybe, so it is hacked onto the turbo - I expect I will do that at the same time as the N249 removal which seems incredibly simple for something which looks like it should be more important that it appears to be.

 

[S3-LINCS]

am sure its not a good idea to have this type of boost valve on the car unless its in line with the n75 or sumit mate,
plus I don't think you can just go turning the boost up/down it wont be very good for you turbo!


I had an overboost problem on my cupra r,
I was going to fit the same valve set at 12-15 psi till sorted but was warned not to!
found out it was the n75 was that knacked

 

[Stuart B]

Thanks for you help, the car has had it on since around 2008/2009 along with the ECU re-map and carbon air filter, when I bought the car (last week) it was on max already - I think I will turn it down until I am sure what is going on with the various pipes, breathers, release valves etc, I thought the issue with the air pressure was on the pipe joins not the actual turbo. I expect like overclocking a computer as long as the other components can deal with it for short periods then its okay. It also might explain the "mechanical" sound rather than just air when backing off throttle.

in 1989 my mate had a fiat uno turbo with one of these on, they cant be all bad ;-)

 

[Stuart B]

This was also installed at the same time as the ECU re-map, manual boost controller and carbon air-filter - a "forge dump valve"

http://www.ppcgb.com/products/forge...jFZUR72vPUEnLuSd-ygA0nfzTevq1AI9ocaAn0B8P8HAQ

I might try and dig through the limited docs I have to find out who upgraded it.

once I have bypassed the jungle and added a catch-can to atmosphere this is not going to be very original at all? maybe just the battery cover.

 

[Stuart B]

Oh dear the boost pressure is far too high after reading various posts, why would the previous owner have it set to 30 psi? I wonder if they were compensating for something (leaks I mean)

I ordered a vag com lead and lite software, the software doesn't appear to work on Windows 10 currently. Maybe that will give me a better idea on boost pressure perhaps that was the reason the spark plug melted after 3 days.

 

[Stuart B]

Hmm even with the boost turned down this still peaks over 20psi. There is a noticeable difference in boost when driving, but the dump sounds less desperate.

 

[badger5]

is that logger reporting correct boost?

 

[Stuart B]

I have no idea if that is real, it is from the ECU via Android Torque Pro and ODB2 bluetooth reader, this is the first "performance" turbo car I have owned and only had since Tuesday - so I am still learning. That logger was set up for every 500 milliseconds, also the first time I used that, I used the dials yesterday but a bit difficult to watch a gauge.

When I picked the car up I put unleaded in not knowing it should have been super-unleaded and 2 days later it misfired and the spark plug in my avatar was taken out of cylinder 2 along with a blown coil pack, maybe due to the plug arc'ing? not sure if the boost pressure too high and cheap petrol caused the plug to overheat. The pipe in the picture was completely split I have patched it and ordered 8mm silicon and 8mm-4mm adapter to go to the tap, and will do the N249 bypass at the weekend then likely the catch can to atmos.

The oil smell has disappeared from the cabin since changing the oil, I think the sump-plug was leaking and the oil evaporating on the sump, hence why only smelt when stationary.

oh and I kind of got the door blade on and fixed the cup holder today #winner

Still need to sort out the stereo, as this ones cd player doesn't work.

 

[S3-LINCS]

looks like your missing the n75 valve

 

[Stuart B]

So remembering I am a beginner and learning each day.
is this why the Manual boost controller was added, either n75 died or was removed when forge dump valve and manual boost controller added.
I don't want to blow up the engine, there is still more adjustment to lower the boost pressure, just don't want it too feel watery.
Can I trust the ecu turbo boost pressure readings through android torque if engine remapped?
I have got vagcom and cable on order so can try that out next week and just take it easy. Car feels good at the moment, when it was reading 30 felt too aggressive for clutch even wheel spinning sometimes on boost in 2nd.

Have abs/eps light appearing but only appears if it accelerate hard, then light stays on until ignition off from other posts it might be the longitude abs sensor, but hopefully vagcom can highlight this.

Thanks

 

[S3 Hilife]

Nice looking Noggy, Like it but there's a couple of things you may want to look at correcting looking at your pics in your engine bay, I think most people here would agree

Personally I would remove that mbc and refit the N75 (it's probably still connected electrically somewhere at the back of the engine bay) and get it boosting "safely"

Bin the Forge split-R (better known as a Sh*t R, hehe) and fit an OEM valve or 007/008. The splitR valves are utter garbage and will cause a "pressure drop between tb,,,,,,,, check dv" fault aswell as loosing metered air as it partly vents to atmosphere which can alter fuel trims

Replace or cut back that damaged pipe which comes off the charge pipe, it should go to the N75 but is currently going to your mbc

Thats just my personal opinion anyway

Steve

 

[Alex C]

Do you have any paper work for the stg 1 remap?

 

[Stuart B]

Thanks for your replies.

"Replace or cut back that damaged pipe which comes off the charge pipe, it should go to the N75 but is currently going to your mbc"

I have ordered some more pipe and an 8mm to 4mm adapter, the reason it was shot is because the MBC is 4mm and the charge pipe is 8mm and the previous owner simply took the core from the 4mm pipe and connected using the rubber pipe wrap, the new piping should be here tomorrow. I will look into the costs of replacing the DV and return to N75 - probably dig around to see if I can find the sensor still connected down the back, whilst removing the jungle for the N249 and then loose the engine cover as the oil filler cap is too low and one of the fittings is broken.


"Do you have any paper work for the stg 1 remap?"
I will dig through what I have - I do not really trust some of the docs as I could have written most of the receipts myself, but there is a laminated dyno run, so will look for docs around that date.

 

[Stuart B]

No real docs regarding the remap etc.
An invoice from an independent for fitting customer supplied dump valve and boost control valve in 2009 in Dundee and a dynorun from "Star Performance" in Fife showing 243 BHP, 240 lb torque.

I wonder whether the VAG-COM will show up anything - I have never used this software before so no idea, if a remap changes some basic ECU greeting or such like.

anyway look at my beautiful car, I cant get over the colour

you cant see it but there is a little bubbling on the wheel arch, what is the standard practice to fix this? cost effective but avoiding stick on vinyl

Thanks

 

[Alex C]

I am wondering if the 'remap' was to rip out the ECU boost control solenoid (N75) and whack in an MBC, wind the boost up and let the ECU struggle to keep the thing fueled

no need to get a bells and whistle DV, the standard DV from the dealers is fine

 

[S3-LINCS]

I am wondering if the 'remap' was to rip out the ECU boost control solenoid (N75) and whack in an MBC, wind the boost up and let the ECU struggle to keep the thing fueled

no need to get a bells and whistle DV, the standard DV from the dealers is fine

if this mbc fails is there anything else to control boost

 

[Stuart B]

well I was told it had a stage 1 ECU remap when I bought it, they are pretty common and easy to do (according to many articles) especially on these engines so I don't doubt it, and the family I bought it from had a newer s3 stage2 - but saying that I have nothing to compare it to, apart from other cars I have owned but they were not in the same league in power and acceleration and non turbo

 

[Stuart B]

"if this mbc fails is there anything else to control boost"

This is an interesting point, I have read some articles where people put MBC inline with the N75 as a failsafe - although clearly I am missing the N75 part I expect an EBC would have an internal failsafe to stop the boost entirely though?

 

[S3-LINCS]

its a nice car

I would do what hilife said and plug the n75 back in pal, that may sort your boost probs out,

am not to sure on the mapping part or vag.com:

 

[S3-LINCS]

"if this mbc fails is there anything else to control boost"

This is an interesting point, I have read some articles where people put MBC inline with the N75 as a failsafe - although clearly I am missing the N75 part I expect an EBC would have an internal failsafe to stop the boost entirely though?

for sum reason my old cupra r would eat n75 valves, after a visit to a local guru I was told I could use a mbc in line with the n75 to cap boost,
I could not for the life figure out how to set it up lol

 

[Stuart B]

Hi going to be doing the n249 delete this weekend, I have bought some tubing, but has anymore simply joined the pipes already there with an inline connector, so as to test it works okay?

Thanks in advance

 

[<tuffty/>]

Bin the MBC...

<tuffty/>

 

[badger5]

obvious things which wont be helping your cars performance..
Split-R dv.. replace with Oe or forge 008, BMC CDA will be restricting flow (yes it actually does)

smoke test it for finding other leaks also if you can

 

[Stuart B]

Thanks, I will find a replacement n77 and dump valve then.

Why do people do these alterations if they don't improve anything, those parts are not particularly cheap?

 

[superkarl]

Christ where to begin with this, sorry you've bought into someone else's idea of 'tuning'.

Honestly as a beginner, you'd be better off taking this to a specialist as on forums things get lost in translation and you'll be having a right headache

 

[superkarl]

Thanks, I will find a replacement n77 and dump valve then.

Why do people do these alterations if they don't improve anything, those parts are not particularly cheap?

People like shiney things. And believe that the oem is crap and can't take boost.
Truth is their oem valve is likely 15 years old, done 100k+ miles and seen better days, so it's often assumed a shiny cnc alloy thing will do the job better.

 

[badger5]

Thanks, I will find a replacement n77 and dump valve then.

Why do people do these alterations if they don't improve anything, those parts are not particularly cheap?

n75

 

[Stuart B]

okay so I can see the old n75 tie wrapped under the part of the air intake, is there an easy way to test this, or should I simply buy another one they are only about £30? This can replace the MBC.

I have replaced the damaged charge pipe although that goes to the MBC in any case.

I am looking at non-splitter DV, the advised forge dv008 or 007 are about £120 (eeek) would a £35 DV be okay? I am not expecting to be fiddling on with the car, but I don't want to regret not paying the extra cash if the cheaper versions are rubbish, unreliable, keep going out of adjustment, weak etc. I have to admit I am finding it difficult to find the real one to use?

Tomorrow I plan N249 delete which looks relatively painless and
I need to check all the brakes as they don't seem very good.
1) Handbrake needs to come all the way up
2) brakes are not very effective and when pushed hard front right seems to ABS / lock up too easily
3) I am sure there is a warped disc somewhere on the front.

So I am planning to change the front discs and pads and brake fluid (next weekend), but if I am doing this is it worth simply changing the rears too? This may highlight why the handbrake is rubbish at the same time.

also my door sometimes doesn't know it is shut, I am assuming the switch is gummed up somewhere in the door, and more worryingly if I drive a slow tight circle the car clicks slightly as if the tracking is not quite right? any advice? - it is very easy to get paranoid, I know it is an old car so I treat it well, but from its docs it has gone through some tough times eg gearbox rebuild in 2008, new electric motors for seats and sunroof about 7 coil packs.

I have a small question regarding boost pressure, as it was highlighted it should not be 23+psi - is the problem with this that there is too much air for the fuel and therefore runs too lean and blows up?

Finally for today (I don't mind there being so much to do, stops me doing free overtime) My CD Player doesn't work in the double DIN Audi Symphony - undecided on
1. I have looked at the 2003 A3 Double to single din converter (which looks like a close fit) can I just put in any old single DIN cd player if I do this?
2. is there a reasonable but cheap double din solution, I am not looking for a disco - but I wouldn't mind an android solution with reversing camera and GPS - but am concerned the current Audi symphony cage wont work as it is such a close fit?
3. can an audi symphony 2 double din work as a direct replacement?

 

[Stuart B]

As a money saving option - I have bought a replacement blanking plug, to stop any venting to atmosphere, hopefully this will convert it to an 007? and I may need to be cautious now with the previous spring settings expecting some pressure to vent?

FMDVSPLTR Blanking Plug

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381192193615

 

[superkarl]

Buy an oem 710n Bosch valve. And never have to worry about it again.

You need to plug the N75 in, correctly, and provide pictures, and report back on boost levels.
Plumb the N75 in correctly, but as a test leave it unplugged electrically, just to see what your actuator pressure is, and whether or not some cowboy has fiddled with that too for more boost.

 

[Stuart B]

Thanks
so
reconnect n75
Leave unplugged (this will show eml)
Warm car up
Start android torque boost logging
Go for a drive
Report back with boost logging to make sure only 16-20psi and not 24-30psi?

Separate unrelated question.
Is it possible to service the haldex oil and filter without the need for a pit? Eg on axle stands?

I an treating this as a classic car / project in all honesty, and want to fix, service improve the bits in the right order whilst I have the initial new purchase energy.

 

[superkarl]

Thanks
so
reconnect n75
Leave unplugged (this will show eml)
Warm car up
Start android torque boost logging
Go for a drive
Report back with boost logging to make sure only 16-20psi and not 24-30psi?

Separate unrelated question.
Is it possible to service the haldex oil and filter without the need for a pit? Eg on axle stands?

I an treating this as a classic car / project in all honesty, and want to fix, service improve the bits in the right order whilst I have the initial new purchase energy.

Yes,
log with it plugged in aswell as unplugged.
Plugged in ideally you wouldn't want much more than 20psi with a stage one, +/-1 or 2.
Unplugged you should see about 10-11psi, this is actuator pressure as standard 'unfucked with'.

You'd be wise to log lambda aswell, not sure if you can do that on your torque app. You can with vcds.

Take pics of the install so we can confirm it is correct or not.

 

[Stuart B]

cool thanks - I will try and get this done tomorrow - been busy today, with decorating.

but did sort out the n249 delete, although had to drill of the plastic trim where the cross head screws rounded and seized, that has some damage to it now.

 

[Stuart B]

So, I have not connected the n75 yet, here is a pic. I know it replaces the mbc. So those are two of my connections, and it also connects to the inlet air pipe, which has been capped off. So can someone please tell me which goes to turbo, tip and air intake please, also there is nothing to hold it in place, is it light enough to just hang onto the air intake?

This might seem like a lot of strange changes, but I had a vw camper for 7 years and was still finding quirks in previous owners setup the whole ownership. The s3 runs fine, but they are expensive so I want to keep it in good order, as well as have fun looking after it.
Thanks for your continued help.

 

[superkarl]