New owner after some advice

Seanchadwick2k3

Seanchadwick2k3

Audi A6 C6 2.0tdi 2011 Sline Special Edition
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Hello everyone

Hope you all had a great Christmas!

I have recently sent my b5 passat to the car graveyard and got myself a 2011 A6 C6 sline special edition, I am made up with it but am trying to get to grips with it and wondered if I could get some advice. Ive trawled this forum and others and come out more confused than I started! Currently taking tramadol after spine surgery so that isnt helping:blink:

Ive just received a mmi USB cable and tried to get a couple of tracks to play but it couldnt detect them so im converying them all to wma to see if that helps. On googling I see that the software on my mmi is old and buggy and could potentially give me issues. Ive read posts about updating in certain orders or you can kill off the mmi which is why im posting.

Details are -
Mmi 3g basic
Software - Bnav_EU_P0054_D1
Nav - 4G0919884J ECE 5.12.4

Ive downloaded a rar file from gpsunderground with instructions and software but not sure if its correct.

Also any advice on good things to check on the car with vcds to get an idea of its condition?

My list so far is
Dpf status
Map req vs actual
Maf req vs actual

Any other recommendations?

I bought her from a garage in Coventry, looks like she was a company car going off prev owner details on v5

2.0 tdi 170
120,000 miles
Full audi service history
Cam belt done between 75000 and 80000

The wheels had been badly curbed so garage had them refurbed and stuck some new tyres on as huge chunks of rubber where missing.

All in all very tidy car and im made up with it so far.

A pic from the day I got her, jusy bought myself the meguires deluxe kit so gonna give her a good clean when the weather picks up...

Cheers people

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Lovely looking car! I can't comment on the 3G Basic as mine has the High, but I did upgrade it.

I can tell you that WMA files are no good, MP3 files are the right format


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Hey mate!

Company car with blacked out windows? What company it was? Lol

I had 2 spine surgeries and Tramadol helped me with any pain

You can scan the whole car for any bugs. Not sure if it show you dpf, maf status.
Dpf might show some signs of it’s clog level while you drive and of behaviour you drive.
Mine showed up after first few months of ownership. Maybe garages/dealers treat it somehow, so it does not show during test drive

I personally wouldn’t start any update by myself.
@DJAlix is the man you need.
Send him screen shots of your sw and fw and he’ll advise you.
You can get updates on SD cards.
This is how he updated my sw, fw and sat nav maps to latest 2017 versions.

As to music file extensions, I wouldn’t be any help. My car does not have AMI but considered as retrofit.
Relatively easy so might add it to my long “to-do” list.


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Cheers mate!

I only went for wma because it says it should be OK in the book but who knows I havent give it a shot yet. The stick I used had a mixture of mp3 and m4a but it couldnt detect anything


 

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Cheers for the advice mate!

It was registered to some haulage company in Exeter! It was part exchanged with the garage I got mine from they had some very nice cars there!!

the tramadol sent me loopy for a day or so not so bad now though!

Ill give it a scan with vcds thats of my cable is compatible I only have the free version and a cheap cable.

Ill give him a shout thanks for the advice dont want to break anything!

Well wma failed miserably!
 
Mine won't read the wma files, but never had any problems with mp3s. There must be some differences between the units, perhaps the firmware update will get it working for you.


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Well I formst the sd card and put a mp3 and m4a on there it recognised both but would only play the mp3 so thats sorted!

Bought myself the meguires kit but didnt bother with Polish but ive just had a good look at the paint under the street lights and we have swirls everywhere so think I better pick some up!
 
Anyone around here done the back box delete on the 2.0 tdi 170? Most vids I come across are all the 3.0 versions so not sure what itll sound like. Wouldbt mind a bit more rumble

Also the front grille and black trim at the bottom of the rear bumper are looking a bit grey. I have some anthracite (practically black) plastidip knocking about and wondered if anyone had tried this?

I attempted spraying the grill on my old mondeo with normal black spray paint, looked great until it started chipping away! Not sure if id need undercoat or if id need to rub the grill down before using the plastidip, dont fancy getting into all those little gaps with my fat fingers!
 
Think I found a vid on yt with another 2.0 tdi vag car with mufflers gutted and sounded nice. Not much changed of how louder it become but tone lowered.
I am interested in that mod and it is on my to do list. Will be done, at some point.

I’ve replaced my front grille to RS replica and plasti dipped it in matt black. Rear diffusor also been plasti dipped but silver matt.
If you want to see the results, check out my threads or gallery.

If you want a proper job with spray paint, prep the part, undercoat it and than paint it.
Key is in the prep, as patience is important.
I know. I also would like to start the project and skip the boring prep job but it is essential to have best results.


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@KrisKrk ive not looked hard enough then! I did it on my old mondeo and it sounded quite nice but that was straight piped from the turbo.

Did you do any prep for the plastdip other thsn clean it? I got mine from cardipuk who now seem to be out of business!

Had a look in your gallery, lovely motors mate. What lighting are you using on the rear of the silver one with a blue tinge?

Also liking the white fogs they are going on my list!

Ive done a bit of spraying before now and turned out quite well, agree that the prep is most important nd most annoying!
 
Quick question may sound stupid!

What is the difference between a a6 and s6? Is the s6 the s line a6 or are they different?
 
@KrisKrk did you remove your whole bumper to spray the grill? Just looking at the pdf from ecstuning. Seems like a fair bit of messing around!
 
@Seanchadwick2k3 I just cleaned and degreased dipped part and gone with dipping.
As I ordered the rs style grille off the net, it was much easier to dip it as I like. Than put it all together and replaced with the oem one. It is a bumper off job but no particular skill or knowledge required. Vids on yt provide all info you might need.

What “lighting on the rear of the silver one with a blue tinge” you talking about?
Number plate lights?

Silver part at the rear I have is the diffuser with honeycomb black insert. It is oem part as could not decide on the replacement but I think will go for rs style, in the future.

Remember: prep it, prep it and than prep it again.

S6 has some small changes to external styling pack but mostly it is much stronger and tuned engines.
S... owners, please, correct me if I’m wrong.


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Cheers mate will give it a go at some point when the weather picks up.

Do you know if there is a list around anywhere with all the interior and exterior bulb types? Looking to get these swapped out with leds. Ive jyst done the number late lights as one was out.
 
@KrisKrk hello mate was going to order some of the led number plate lights you got from eBay. Are the still working ok? I got some Leds and they worked fine for a day but now both have packed in. They also did that stupid flashing thing.
 
I've had LED number plate lights from eBay and they are far too bright and flash when the car does its self check.
The genuine Audi versions are not as bright, they still flash, but its not as noticeable.
 
I didnt realise the audi ones also flashed, ive seen mention of sticking some resistors inline but notvseen any proper detail. Have you heard anythin of this?
 
I've heard about that, but I think that only stops the bulb out warning and not the flashing. I haven't tried it myself so I can't confirm.
 
Ahhh right OK.ill have to keep digging, im sure all that self check can do is check the draw of the bulbs or something along those lines. Just gotta get a led to behave like a bulb I guess!
 
I think that the short pulse of low current used in the check isn't enough to light a bulb as it takes time for the filament to heat up and glow. LEDs don't work in the same way and require less current and time to emit light so they flash.
Good luck with your search.
 
Seems like a lot of work to do that for each bulb that you replace with an LED.
 
Hey @Seanchadwick2k3,
My plate leds are still great. They do strobe but, as explained above, it is unavoidable.

I just got back from the car, after some resistors fitting to reverse lights.
Got new led bulbs (covered that in my “Quick one” thread and will update it shortly with pictures) but they threw a dash error. Previous ones didn’t, so was forced to fit resistors for them.

In respond to your previous question addressed to me, I very much doubt there will be around a full list of internal and external bulbs types and spec needed for your car.
Cars manual should allow info on the external bulb types but for the interior, best is to take them out one by one and order replacement in leds accordingly.
I did it like that time ago.
Another solution is to get full interior set from the same source, like our site sponsor EmTuning @t8ups. He’s got some amazing interior sets.

Let us know your choices and show off your motor


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Hey @KrisKrk im in the same boat as you with the Leds. Ive messaged the seller to get a refund as these are not working at all now, they worked fine for a day or so.

Thinking of ordering a set of the ones you have and giving the relay I posted above a shot.

If im thinking correctly I just need one 12v relay and a Resistor equal to the resistance of the two normal bulbs added together? Im no spark so guess work here!

Cheap China mud flaps arrived today, once I get them on and I give her a clean ill get some proper pics up
 
Not sure, I think the bulb warning on the dash tells you whether it’s the left or right number plate bulb that is out, but I could be wrong.
 
Thats for the reverse and indicator ones on FL C6. Number plate ones are wired in series, as @Seanchadwick2k3 said. Had them in my hand off my car as wanted to check it properly before installing load resistor.
Ended up not fitting one as those fleeBay plate leds didn’t threw any dash error at all. They still will and do strobe tho.


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I was looking at those earlier buy u bet they are just a more refined plug and play version of the above, there usnt much else they can be. They cant alter the way the car does its checks (unless it takes them out of the loop and sends its own pulse straight back to itself??) all those leads could do.is imitate a bulb being present and by using a relay you avoid the pulsing.

I might give it a go probs get a relay off my dad and a bit of cable for nothing
 
To be honest, it looks to me like a plug and socket with some wires and 3 resistors in. You can even see the stripes on the resistors so you can work out what the resistance needs to be...
 
So the principal here is that the relay does not switch closed fast enough to respond to the pulse? Sounds like a neat idea, will have to look into it further. Could be good for reverse and indicators but I would be worried about the heat buildup if using on fog lights for example


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I still think it's easier to stick with filament bulbs :grinning:
Must be getting old :frowning:
 
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audi upgrades
Steveredman said:
I have one of these for my number plate bulbs, it is just a load resistor, presumably just to avoid the bulb out error and the car cutting power to the bulbs.

I will check tomorrow if they still strobe, can't say I've noticed it.


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Click to expand...

I have the same genuine Audi LED lamps as you, but without the Kufatec loom. I don't get a bulb failure warning, but they do strobe.
However, as they are not as bright as the after market lamps it is not so obvious. you may have to stand around waiting to check yours though, because I think they only flash about every 30 seconds - blink and you'll miss it!
 
I definitely noticed it when I tried to replace my reverse and indicators


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I might go and look in a minute, probably easier to spot in the dark as well


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Yeah they just send a small pulse down the line a normal filament bulb wouldnt have time to heat up so you wouldnt get the flash like you do from led,s. If you see that video he actually uses the bulbs as the Resistor.

Car does its check relay in open position and seea the bulbs there, they dont light up because they dont have time and as soon as your lights are switched on the relay sees 12v opens up and your Leds come on. As soon as 12v drops the relay pops back again and your car sees the bulbs present.
 
Seanchadwick2k3 said:
Yeah they just send a small pulse down the line a normal filament bulb wouldnt have time to heat up so you wouldnt get the flash like you do from led,s. If you see that video he actually uses the bulbs as the Resistor.

Car does its check relay in open position and seea the bulbs there, they dont light up because they dont have time and as soon as your lights are switched on the relay sees 12v opens up and your Leds come on. As soon as 12v drops the relay pops back again and your car sees the bulbs present.
Click to expand...

I will have to watch the video but it has definitely got my attention.


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I dont like electrical diagrams but he explains it all and shows you as he does it. Only difference for us would be what reistor to use instead of using both bulbs as he does. Guessing you would just measure resistance across one bulb, double it and theres your value but im no spark so could do with someone with some electrical knowledge!
 
Last edited:
Seanchadwick2k3 said:
Yeah they just send a small pulse down the line a normal filament bulb wouldnt have time to heat up so you wouldnt get the flash like you do from led,s. If you see that video he actually uses the bulbs as the Resistor.

Car does its check relay in open position and seea the bulbs there, they dont light up because they dont have time and as soon as your lights are switched on the relay sees 12v opens up and your Leds come on. As soon as 12v drops the relay pops back again and your car sees the bulbs present.
Click to expand...

Isn’t the outcome as a reverse of what the computer does now?

Currently, computer checks for the bulb and does not recognise the led so it checks it with pulse (strobe).
With the relay in and open, it sees the filament bulb or load resistor and forgets it, as it think bulb is there. As soon as you switch particular light on, relay closes and leds light up but computer does not recognise it. So, it will try to cut the power to the led and open closed relay. This should switch the led off and go back to square one, filament bulb or resistor.

Therefore, instead of strobe you get split second of blank. Led will go off for that time.
Unless, relay is not that quick to open and close.

Is that right?

Took me a moment to work out the diagram and I’m an engineer in electronics. Tssskk

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