New b8 s4 owner with problems s-tronic

[Scottyderg]

first of all hello and thanks for so much information so far
I have just bought a 60 plate s4 avant, love the car it’s aboslutly mint,
Got full service history Audi apart from last gearbox multironic service at 75k from private garage with £240 recipt to prove. Car has now got 81k on it
The problem I’m having is sitting in traffic and stuff between first and second on auto is slightly lumpy I would say, other than that loads of Power using auto or flappy paddles and drives superb once away right upto 7th gear
Then when we had the snow last week done some messing around and stuff and the gearbox malifinction light Came on, so I stopped the car and restarted, gone completely done 200miles since and nothing. It has been in for a service with Audi today and they plugged it in and found no codes or nothing. Do you think this is coincidence or with the lumpy 1st away from junctions it could be linked? The car was stuck in 2/4/6 not the usual 1/3/5/7

Thanks

 

[youngy93]

First thing, change the title as you have S-Tronic which is dual cluch, where as Tiptronic is proper auto with torque converter. The S-tronic isnt the most relaible system as tends to start showing problems after 70k miles, or less depending on box servicing.

 

[Sandra]

Title changed to s-tronic

 

[Scottyderg]

Title changed to s-tronic

thank you

 

[Scottyderg]

First thing, change the title as you have S-Tronic which is dual cluch, where as Tiptronic is proper auto with torque converter. The S-tronic isnt the most relaible system as tends to start showing problems after 70k miles, or less depending on box servicing.

yeah I've read a few things that this is one of the issues they become I'm just trying to find a solution if possible. anther things it does is theres seams to be a light gassy/clutch smell when in traffic only slight though as the car creeps in heavy traffic, thanks

 

[Mario]

Normally I would say the first thing to do is get fresh oil in it and a filter change (if your gearbox has the replacement cartridge type filter, not all do). Make sure only genuine Audi fluid and filters are used. Audi themselves do it for a fixed price of £225 which is not too bad as the service kit alone is £145 from @creweaudiparts on here (forum sponsor / Audi dealership), the RRP of the kit is nearer £170 which means they are only charging £55 labour.

However, to save doing 2 oil changes I would just replace the PCB and get an oil change done at the same time. Especially as your oil was only changed 6,000 miles ago.

Its likely an issue with the Mechatronic unit PCB, pre-2013 cars are known for this due to lack of protection from the hot oil which over time causes damage, especially as the oil gets older / dirty and more acidic. Newer units don't have this issue due to better protection. You can buy a replacement PCB and swap it out. Or it's possibly a bad Mechatronic solenoid, but less likely.

New full mech unit cost £2500 from Audi, but a new PCB is much cheaper at £300-ish.

If that fails to fix the issue then it's likely the solenoids. Companies like 3D Transmissions in Reading can test & repair mech units including replacing individual solenoids that are not working I believe.

PCB part no is....0B5398009E and available from @creweaudiparts on here.

Also, if you want I can look in ElsaWin for the the full guide on replacing the PCB, inc all torque specs, etc when re-fitting.

 

[creweaudiparts]

Hi,

I can do 0B5398009E for £290.00 posted if anyone is interested.

Thanks

 

[Scottyderg]

Normally I would say the first thing to do is get fresh oil in it and a filter change (if your gearbox has the replacement cartridge type filter, not all do). Make sure only genuine Audi fluid and filters are used. Audi themselves do it for a fixed price of £225 which is not too bad as the service kit alone is £145 from @creweaudiparts on here (forum sponsor / Audi dealership), the RRP of the kit is nearer £170 which means they are only charging £55 labour.

However, to save doing 2 oil changes I would just replace the PCB and get an oil change done at the same time. Especially as your oil was only changed 6,000 miles ago.

Its likely an issue with the Mechatronic unit PCB, pre-2013 cars are known for this due to lack of protection from the hot oil which over time causes damage, especially as the oil gets older / dirty and more acidic. Newer units don't have this issue due to better protection. You can buy a replacement PCB and swap it out. Or it's possibly a bad Mechatronic solenoid, but less likely.

New full mech unit cost £2500 from Audi, but a new PCB is much cheaper at £300-ish.

If that fails to fix the issue then it's likely the solenoids. Companies like 3D Transmissions in Reading can test & repair mech units including replacing individual solenoids that are not working I believe.

PCB part no is....0B5398009E and available from @creweaudiparts on here.

Also, if you want I can look in ElsaWin for the the full guide on replacing the PCB, inc all torque specs, etc when re-fitting.

thats absolutely brilliant thank you for the advice I'm going to download the manual and have a look at fitting the PCB myself then put it into audi for oil and filter so the book gets stated, thanks again great advice

 

[Mario]

No problem, if you need the install guide let me know and I'll upload it for you.

Only thing I will say is that if you fit the PCB yourself you will be draining the fluid at the same time, so you have to plan ahead as to how you will transport the car to Audi with no gearbox fluid.

There is always the option to catch the old fluid in a clean (as in brand new and spotless) container and then refill the gearbox with the fluid that came out, but really that is not ideal and not something I would really want to do myself, but if there is no other way it is an option. You will need to make sure the fluid is not contaminated and kept sealed while doing other work.

Really, if you refill with old fluid the car should be driven straight to Audi afterwards and absolutely no-where else to get a fluid change immediately.

Also, just as an FYI. You will get most of the oil out of the drain plug, but there will be more to come out when you remove the sump / oil pan.

Oh and you will need a new gasket for the sump and new bolts also, reused bolts have been known to snap when being re-torqued. Not all the time, but it is a risk, so best to replace.

While you are in there it is worth replacing the internal strainer / filter also. Just one more thing that might have dirt trapped in it that you might as well replace if you are going to all the effort of taking out the mech unit anyway.

If you need part numbers for anything let me know and I'll try to find them for you.

 

[Scottyderg]

No problem, if you need the install guide let me know and I'll upload it for you.

Only thing I will say is that if you fit the PCB yourself you will be draining the fluid at the same time, so you have to plan ahead as to how you will transport the car to Audi with no gearbox fluid.

There is always the option to catch the old fluid in a clean (as in brand new and spotless) container and then refill the gearbox with the fluid that came out, but really that is not ideal and not something I would really want to do myself, but if there is no other way it is an option. You will need to make sure the fluid is not contaminated and kept sealed while doing other work.

Really, if you refill with old fluid the car should be driven straight to Audi afterwards and absolutely no-where else to get a fluid change immediately.

Also, just as an FYI. You will get most of the oil out of the drain plug, but there will be more to come out when you remove the sump / oil pan.

Oh and you will need a new gasket for the sump and new bolts also, reused bolts have been known to snap when being re-torqued. Not all the time, but it is a risk, so best to replace.

While you are in there it is worth replacing the internal strainer / filter also. Just one more thing that might have dirt trapped in it that you might as well replace if you are going to all the effort of taking out the mech unit anyway.

If you need part numbers for anything let me know and I'll try to find them for you.

that is absolutely brilliant, thank you, once the mechatronic uint is removed how long roughly will it take me to fit the new PCB to that? yes if you could I've just tried to download the software you sent me not realising i have a macbook!!!!! damn it won't download to my device,
if you could give me part numbers for
strainer/filter
gasket
that would be excellent, yeah ill refill with old oil and send straight to Audi, once again thank you so much for all the help, this ha put my mind to rest a lot, thanks

 

[Mario]

I've just tried to download the software you sent me not realising i have a macbook!!!!!

Software I sent you? I've not sent anything?? Anyway, I'll have a look and get it uploaded for you in PDF format. Will also get you the part numbers. Will try to do it when I get home tonight, but might not be until tomorrow though.

 

[Scottyderg]

Software I sent you? I've not sent anything?? Anyway, I'll have a look and get it uploaded for you in PDF format. Will also get you the part numbers. Will try to do it when I get home tonight, but might not be until tomorrow though.

Sorry mario the link you sent me for the Audi Elsa win. Again much appreciated there’s no rush I’m away for a weeks holidays next week then I’m tackling this once in get back!

 

[Mario]

Erm....I never sent you any link to ElsaWin?? Might want to check your inbox, as I'm not sure who sent you a link, but it was not me.

Anyway, moving on, here is all the information from ElsaWin in PDF format.... https://mega.nz/#!BZIHlaAB!Pu4cGpLXk9jVS59pyATumAZ0Qyg12FLjfksxOR2tn70

The PDF is made up of several sections of information and I have put it together for you in the order detailed below....

1. Exploded view of mechatronics unit, provides all torque figures, seals to replace, names of items, etc
2. Draining & Filling ATF fluid from the gearbox
3. Removing & Installing exchangeable ATF filter (you may not have this, but this section helps you identify what one you do have and also if you need a retrofittable locating element, also, this will be changed at Audi anyway)
4. Checking ATF fluid level (this requires VCDS to perform properly, but will be done by Audi anyway when they replace your fluid)
5. Exploded view of the front subframe - This is supplied because the front cross member needs to be removed to remove the oil pan, torque settings for the bolts are supplied here
6. Removal and re-installation of the cross member which obscures the oil pan.
7. Removing & Installing Oil Pan
8. Removing and installing the internal ATF filter / strainer
9. Removing & installing the mechatronic unit
10. Exploded view of the PCB
11. Removing and installing the PCB's on the mechatronic unit

List of Part Numbers required & quantities

Note: Some items will be changed at Audi, but I will list them regardless and identify which ones will be changed during the oil / filter change. You can then decide if you want to fit a new one in between your repair works and Audi's servicing works, for example the sump drain plug washer.

Following items replaced at Audi during oil / filter change

• N 013 827 5 - Sump drain plug washer - QTY = 1
• 0B5 325 330 A - Exchangeable external ATF filter (if required) - QTY = 1
• WHT 005 499 A - O-ring for external ATF filter (if required) - QTY = 1
• WHT 003 487 - New replacement sump drain plug - QTY = 1
• G 052 529 A2 - ATF gearbox oil - QTY = 7L

Following items NOT replaced during oil / filter change and required for your repair

• N 911 511 01 - Cross Member Bolts (These are Torque To Yield) - QTY = 6
• N 910 968 01 - Oil pan bolts - QTY = 15
• 0B5 321 371 E - Oil pan gasket - QTY = 1
• 0B5 325 429 E - Internal filter / strainer with O-rings - QTY = 1
• WHT 005 379 - Oil seal between external filter housing and gearbox (only if external filter fitted) - QTY = 1
• 0B5 321 473 - ATF pipes inc seals between external filter housing & gearbox (only if external filter fitted). Procedure says to only replace seals, but they are unavailable separately - QTY = 1
• N 104 057 02 - Mechatronic unit mounting bolts - QTY = 6
• 0B5 315 105 TC - Mechatronic clutch pressure pipes - QTY = 1
• 0B5 315 105 TA - Mechatronic internal ATF pipes - QTY = 1
• 0B5 398 009 E - Mechatronic PCB repair kit - QTY = 1

The 3 items I have highlighted above in red are officially listed in the document I have uploaded for you as requiring replacement, because you are disturbing the seals and MAY cause a leak, but whether or not you actually have to change them is up for debate. However there is a risk if causing a leak (internal or external) if not replaced, so if you decide not to change those bits, bare that in mind.

NOTE: When replacing the PCB it mentions to fit swarf protectors to certain places of the Mechatronics unit, even if they were not there originally. From a bit of digging it appears that these are included with the new PCB repair kit.

Hope that helps.

 

[Scottyderg]

Erm....I never sent you any link to ElsaWin?? Might want to check your inbox, as I'm not sure who sent you a link, but it was not me.

Anyway, moving on, here is all the information from ElsaWin in PDF format.... https://mega.nz/#!BZIHlaAB!Pu4cGpLXk9jVS59pyATumAZ0Qyg12FLjfksxOR2tn70

The PDF is made up of several sections of information and I have put it together for you in the order detailed below....

1. Exploded view of mechatronics unit, provides all torque figures, seals to replace, names of items, etc
2. Draining & Filling ATF fluid from the gearbox
3. Removing & Installing exchangeable ATF filter (you may not have this, but this section helps you identify what one you do have and also if you need a retrofittable locating element, also, this will be changed at Audi anyway)
4. Checking ATF fluid level (this requires VCDS to perform properly, but will be done by Audi anyway when they replace your fluid)
5. Exploded view of the front subframe - This is supplied because the front cross member needs to be removed to remove the oil pan, torque settings for the bolts are supplied here
6. Removal and re-installation of the cross member which obscures the oil pan.
7. Removing & Installing Oil Pan
8. Removing and installing the internal ATF filter / strainer
9. Removing & installing the mechatronic unit
10. Exploded view of the PCB
11. Removing and installing the PCB's on the mechatronic unit

List of Part Numbers required & quantities

Note: Some items will be changed at Audi, but I will list them regardless and identify which ones will be changed during the oil / filter change. You can then decide if you want to fit a new one in between your repair works and Audi's servicing works, for example the sump drain plug washer.

Following items replaced at Audi during oil / filter change

• N 013 827 5 - Sump drain plug washer - QTY = 1
• 0B5 325 330 A - Exchangeable external ATF filter (if required) - QTY = 1
• WHT 005 499 A - O-ring for external ATF filter (if required) - QTY = 1
• WHT 003 487 - New replacement sump drain plug - QTY = 1
• G 052 529 A2 - ATF gearbox oil - QTY = 7L

Following items NOT replaced during oil / filter change and required for your repair

• N 911 511 01 - Cross Member Bolts (These are Torque To Yield) - QTY = 6
• N 910 968 01 - Oil pan bolts - QTY = 15
• 0B5 321 371 E - Oil pan gasket - QTY = 1
• 0B5 325 429 E - Internal filter / strainer with O-rings - QTY = 1
• WHT 005 379 - Oil seal between external filter housing and gearbox (only if external filter fitted) - QTY = 1
• 0B5 321 473 - ATF pipes inc seals between external filter housing & gearbox (only if external filter fitted). Procedure says to only replace seals, but they are unavailable separately - QTY = 1
• N 104 057 02 - Mechatronic unit mounting bolts - QTY = 6
• 0B5 315 105 TC - Mechatronic clutch pressure pipes - QTY = 1
• 0B5 315 105 TA - Mechatronic internal ATF pipes - QTY = 1
• 0B5 398 009 E - Mechatronic PCB repair kit - QTY = 1

The 3 items I have highlighted above in red are officially listed in the document I have uploaded for you as requiring replacement, because you are disturbing the seals and MAY cause a leak, but whether or not you actually have to change them is up for debate. However there is a risk if causing a leak (internal or external) if not replaced, so if you decide not to change those bits, bare that in mind.

NOTE: When replacing the PCB it mentions to fit swarf protectors to certain places of the Mechatronics unit, even if they were not there originally. From a bit of digging it appears that these are included with the new PCB repair kit.

Hope that helps.

that is brilliant i thank you so much have you had experience of doing this type of thing yourself? if your ever in the area i owe you a cup of tea haha !

 

[Scottyderg]

Hi,

I can do 0B5398009E for £290.00 posted if anyone is interested.

Thanks

thanks again for your reply, if i nd you a list of parts could you give me a price please,
thanks a lot for your time

 

[Scottyderg]

ANY Body able to shed a light on these faults I’ve had come up on a vag com diagnose after I done a little bit digging in the system managed to find these and wondering if there pointing towards the mechatronics or hopefully something easier and cheaper before I order all the parts to repair the PCB thanks a lot

 

[Scottyderg]

Ran another test and codes remain

 

[Scottyderg]

any ideas on these codes

 

[Scottyderg]

Just finally fitted my pcb repair kit and it’s like a different car! Took me around 4 hours and it running like a dream! Every gear change is unnoticeable and there’s no lurching forward and revs raising while in traffic! To be fair it was a very straight forward job! Thanks for all the help guys the tech tips worked really well.

 

[Ady Goodrich]

Just finally fitted my pcb repair kit and it’s like a different car! Took me around 4 hours and it running like a dream! Every gear change is unnoticeable and there’s no lurching forward and revs raising while in traffic! To be fair it was a very straight forward job! Thanks for all the help guys the tech tips worked really well.

I have a 2009 S4 B8 Avant with nearly 100k miles on it, starting to get a bit clunky sometimes in D mode so I might look into getting this done to mine. Great informative thread, not sure whether I'd tackle the job myself though!

 

[Dippy]

Be aware that there are several different fixes for the early DL501s and the PCB was only one of them.

 

[Ady Goodrich]

Be aware that there are several different fixes for the early DL501s and the PCB was only one of them.

I can imagine it might be a bit more complex in some cases, I'd probably get it checked out by an independant S-tronic/DSG specialist if it gets any worse. Most of the time it's totally smooth and performs exactly as you'd expect, just the odd time mainly when cold it's a bit clunky in D when starting off or stopping, so just getting a bit of knowledge in case I need to get it fixed in the future.