Nev’s Carbon Black MY19 G01 BMW X3 M40i

NevMan

Well known member
@X3man - Looking foreword to the pic's with the winter 19's on Nev
The ride should be better than the 21's
Are the 21's the ditch finder run flats?

I'm happy enough that the 20's on the M Sport+ pack on my X3 are NOT run flats

Yep, will post pics Col.
And yes, 21”s are RFT, but to be honest they are ok (never had RFT before). Ride is plenty good, but I do have adaptive suspension.

When the time comes to change them, which won’t be for awhile now I have winters, I will get MP4S’s
 

NevMan

Well known member
The 21s on Jordan's X4 weren't the Run Flats they were Pirelli Pzeros

P Zero’s can be RFT too mate, as plenty moan about them on Xbimmers. Only way to avoid was to do 20”s, but you can now spec high performance non RFT’s which is probably what Jordan had
 
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NevMan

Well known member
Ready to coat the winter alloys and summers when they come off:

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Jimbob76

Roof Rails Enthusiast
Was at Dashcam installer yesterday and spotted this terrible set of scratches on my bonnet. Looks like some DA action and re-Coat required along this panel this weekend.

No idea where that came from, was not there when I washed last weekend

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Very late to the party in replying to this pal, but glad to hear it polished out alright and loving a close up of your paint - the metallic/pearlescent fleck in the paint is ruddy lovely :yum:

I don’t think this was deliberate per-se, perhaps just dumb and ignorant - the marring reminds me of a time last year when I came back to the car after taking the kids swimming to find a mini-pack of ‘youths’ near the car, with one resting his ‘arris on the bonnet while taking a selfie of himself sat on my S3 :gun2: The little bell-ends scattered pretty sharpish when angry Jim surfaced, puffed up his chest and bellowed at ‘em. So that made me chuckle and the marring polished out ok, so no harm done :tearsofjoy:
 
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NevMan

Well known member
Very late to the party in replying to this pal, but glad to hear it polished out alright and loving a close up of your paint - the metallic/pearlescent fleck in the paint is ruddy lovely :yum:

I don’t think this was deliberate per-se, perhaps just dumb and ignorant - the marring reminds me of a time last year when I came back to the car after taking the kids swimming to find a mini-pack of ‘youths’ near the car, with one resting his ‘arris on the bonnet while taking a selfie of himself sat on my S3 :gun2: The little bell-ends scattered pretty sharpish when angry Jim surfaced, puffed up his chest bellowed at ‘em. So that made me chuckle and the marring polished out ok, so no harm done :tearsofjoy:

Always love your write ups or comments Jim, I can just picture the scene, but have to say, you were very restrained
 

Jimbob76

Roof Rails Enthusiast
Always love your write ups or comments Jim, I can just picture the scene, but have to say, you were very restrained
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I was pretty restrained, largely because I had the nippers with me. Posture and volume (rather than profanity and threats of violence) did the trick, lol.

Which reminds me, it’s bonfire night - off to pop the car in the garage to save it from falling rockets :rocket: A mate of mine bought himself a used Mk2 VW Scirocco Scala 2 days before 5th November about 20 years ago. He was pleased as punch with it, ‘twas a lovely example and I remember feeling quite jealous. Then a spent firework landed on his roof and dented it 2 days after he took the keys. You should’ve seen his face. Murderous it was - he still talks about it now, lol.

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NevMan

Well known member
I was pretty restrained, largely because I had the nippers with me. Posture and volume (rather than profanity and threats of violence) did the trick, lol.

Which reminds me, it’s bonfire night - off to pop the car in the garage to save it from falling rockets :rocket: A mate of mine bought himself a used Mk2 VW Scirocco Scala 2 days before 5th November about 20 years ago. He was pleased as punch with it, ‘twas a lovely example and I remember feeling quite jealous. Then a spent firework landed on his roof and dented it 2 days after he took the keys. You should’ve seen his face. Murderous it was - he still talks about it now, lol.

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“Only” a threat of violence?
 

NevMan

Well known member
Winters fitted, loving the look, and BIG up to the M Performance wheel bags. So so much better quality than my flimsy Audi OEM ones, and cheaper too!

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Bristle Hound

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Winters fitted, loving the look, and BIG up to the M Performance wheel bags. So so much better quality than my flimsy Audi OEM ones, and cheaper too!

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@X3man - Looks fab Nev :thumbs up:
Just look at that wheel to arch gap
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Wheel bags ? Now that did make me laugh this morning
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The big question is - does it ride better now the 21" RF's are off ?

Oh & get that X3 cleaned! Shame on you ! :whip:
lol
 

NevMan

Well known member
@X3man - Looks fab Nev :thumbs up:
Just look at that wheel to arch gap
shocked.gif

Wheel bags ? Now that did make me laugh this morning
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The big question is - does it ride better now the 21" RF's are off ?

Oh & get that X3 cleaned! Shame on you ! :whip:
lol

Col, price difference in wheels and tyres to go 20” just too much. The main thing is SWMBO likes it, so as we all know that is key!

Rides nicely but pretty happy with how my 21”s ride on adaptive tbh.

It has rained here for pretty much two weeks, and as you know, I spent a few hours over weekend ceramic coating the winters, so wash had to wait
 

NevMan

Well known member
Perfect timing for winter tyres, fitted yesterday, snowing today

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SPIKE_

Vorsprung durch Technik
Winters fitted, loving the look, and BIG up to the M Performance wheel bags. So so much better quality than my flimsy Audi OEM ones, and cheaper too!

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Both the new wheels and the wheel covers look great @X3man :icon thumright:
 

NevMan

Well known member

Adam14

Registered User
The bags look the mutts nuts that's for sure! Very smart looking!
On a side note is a bag of some sort needed as I'll be purchasing my winter tyres soon, so if I just stacked the summers in my garage will they be ok?

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NevMan

Well known member
The bags look the mutts nuts that's for sure! Very smart looking!
On a side note is a bag of some sort needed as I'll be purchasing my winter tyres soon, so if I just stacked the summers in my garage will they be ok?

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Bags not a necessity. In the past I have just stacked and covered with tarpaulin/old blankets
 

NevMan

Well known member
Bags are useful for transporting and for identifying which wheel is from which corner

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NevMan

Well known member

NevMan

Well known member
Really rate Gyeon Q2 foam. Nice and thick and clears some serious dirt.

M40i was filthy after weeks or rain and snow. Paintwork not touched with mitt. Purely S/F and rinse:

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NevMan

Well known member
2 x 21”s ceramic coated ready for hibernation:

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sve170

Registered User
The bags look the mutts nuts that's for sure! Very smart looking!
On a side note is a bag of some sort needed as I'll be purchasing my winter tyres soon, so if I just stacked the summers in my garage will they be ok?

Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

Audi do the same type of wheel bag, really nice bits of kit if storing wheels/tyres.


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jassyo06

T-Cut King !
Really rate Gyeon Q2 foam. Nice and thick and clears some serious dirt.

M40i was filthy after weeks or rain and snow. Paintwork not touched with mitt. Purely S/F and rinse:

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I didn't rate the gyeon foam not for its price...others do a better job a bit cheaper plus l hated the smell of it
 

NevMan

Well known member
I didn't rate the gyeon foam not for its price...others do a better job a bit cheaper plus l hated the smell of it

Funny isn’t it. Used BH Autofoam plenty and do rate it, but was seriously impressed with what the Gyeon took off.

I like the smell
 

NevMan

Well known member
Audi do the same type of wheel bag, really nice bits of kit if storing wheels/tyres.


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I had the Audi OEM bags, but they were paper thin
 

NevMan

Well known member
I had them and could not fault the quality.


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Maybe I had a bad set, as ripped easily
 

SPIKE_

Vorsprung durch Technik
2 x 21”s ceramic coated ready for hibernation:

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Cracking pictures @X3man! C5 is hard to beat.....saying that, I haven’t really tried much else :tearsofjoy:
 

Adam14

Registered User
2 x 21”s ceramic coated ready for hibernation:

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What's the application process mate? I've taken the summers off my car (tyre place didn't note which tyre came from where, despite me asking)
I've washed them and tar remover, will plan to fall out remover next weekend. Can I then go straight for the ceramic application or should I polish first?

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Jimbob76

Roof Rails Enthusiast
What's the application process mate? I've taken the summers off my car (tyre place didn't note which tyre came from where, despite me asking)
I've washed them and tar remover, will plan to fall out remover next weekend. Can I then go straight for the ceramic application or should I polish first?

Products and process I used recently are in the post I’ve linked to below mate (click on the up arrow to go to the thread then scroll down a bit!). Basically, after you’ve used your iron fall-out remover, give the wheels a good wipe down with IPA/panel wipe, and after you’ve treated with the C5 and let cure you could opt to ‘top’ with C2V3. Very happy with the results on mine. Whether you need to polish before you apply the C5 is really down to the condition of the wheels. Didn’t need to with mine...

A long time overdue, but finally got around to the Gtechniq C5 Wheel Armour treatment today. Winter is coming - therefore this job needs doing and the Autumn weather is looking kind for the next couple of days, so....

Tools for the job:

View attachment 192799

- Gtechniq C5 Wheel Armour (30ml bottle) + an additional pack of x10 lint free applicator pads (get the additional pads, they cost pennies, and you'll need 'em)
- Bilt Hamber Auto Wheels ('bleeding' iron fall-out remover)
- Tac System Tar Zero (yep, it's a tar/glue remover)
- Bilt Hamber Surfex HD (diluted degreaser in the Kwazar Mercury bottle, top left)
- Gtechniq Panel Wipe
- Gtechniq C2V3 Liquid Crystal paint sealant
- A hogs hair brush (good for wheel lugs and generally agitating the chemicals used to decon the wheels during the prep stage)
- Nitrile gloves (don't usually bother with these, but thought it was worth it for the application of the C5 - don't think you want to be rubbing your eyes or biting your nails after using this)
- A combination of 'trash' microfibres for the prep work, plus some good clean decent ones (Kirkland, from Amazon or Costco are ideal) for light buffing
- Your usual wash gear for cleaning wheels

Then, car up in the air as per guide at the top of this thread (same photo as before, didn't take one today!). Two wheels from one side being done today, then the other two tomorrow...

View attachment 192802


Preparation:

I then set about thoroughly decontaminating the wheels. First just wash with your regular soap to get the top layer of road grime and loose brake dust off - and dry the wheels. Then hit them with iron fall-out remover (I recommend BH Auto Wheels - really effective, but NOT acidic - never use Wonder Wheels unless your alloys are shot to bits - this stuff is really acidic and I personally wouldn't touch it with a barge pole). My wheels are pretty clean, so no gratuitous purple 'bleeding' shots I'm afraid, but this stage was definitely still worth doing, as it picked up some bonded iron fall-out from the corners of the spokes...

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Then hit again, this time with tar remover (I used TAC System Tar Zero) - this will shift any bonded tar spots. Also useful to get rid of any old glue deposits/adhesive pads from old wheel balancing weights. Again, mine weren't too bad as I gave the wheels a good clean last time I had the wheels off, but there were a few tar spots in the barrels that needed shifting...

View attachment 192804

I also gave the tyre walls a proper scrub with BH Surfex HD and my Tuff Shine Tyre Brush, to get rid of any old tyre dressing.

After that, the wheels were transferred into the garage and onto a makeshift work-bench made from up-turned recycling boxes, an old wardrobe door and a old fleecy throw rug (to protect the faces of the wheels). Sounds daft, but this saved my back during the next stages, and gave me much better visibility during the actual ceramic coating (just don't tell the missus I used the fleecy throw, reckon I can get that through the washing machine and back into the drawer underneath the bed in the spare room before she notices, lol).

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Before applying the C5 Wheel Armour, the final prep stage was a once over with Gtechniq Panel Wipe (any pre-wax cleanser/IPA will do though). This gives a properly clean surface for the C5 Wheel Armour to chemically bond to - this last stage of Panel Wipe is really important - don't skip it, or the durability of the final ceramic application will be compromised.


Application:

It would be really tempting to coat the front face of the wheel first - this is the what you're going to see, so the most gratifying bit! Don't do this! Otherwise you'd have to turn the just coated face of the wheel down onto your fleecy or material covered work-area before it has cured. Turn the wheels around and do the barrels and back of the spokes FIRST.

The C5 itself is pretty easy to use. Just work methodically - think of the wheel as a clock-face, work clock-wise, and do half of one side of the wheel at a time before going back and buffing (buffing tips coming up next). Drip the C5 out onto your lint-free applicator pad - not all in one big blob in the middle of the pad, but 'circle' it onto the full face of the pad. A little goes a long way.

Use Nitrile gloves, and definitely buy an extra pack of x10 Gtechniq applicator pads - they're really cheap, so makes sense to have more than you need. You get x4 with the bottle of C5, and I found I used about x3 per wheel.

If you have 19" wheels, get the 30ml bottle. I've used just under half of the 30ml bottle for the x2 wheels I've done today.


Buffing:

Or should I say tickling. The trick here is not to buff like you're going at paste wax on bodywork. You're just looking to level off the layer of ceramic you've applied. So a light touch is the best touch. I worked with a method of half of one side of a wheel. Let it flash off for about a minute, then very gently wipe over/level off with a Kirkland plush terry cloth. I did x2 wheels with the same Kirkland cloth, then binned it. Do not keep this buffing cloth - the ceramic you've 'buffed' off will cure in it, and cure very hard, so you'll swirl your paint if you take this cloth back to your bodywork.


What about curing time?

C5 should be applied inside (garage is ideal). Instructions say above 5 degrees centigrade and let it cure (inside) for 12 hours before popping the wheels back on the car. So my car is on axle stands tonight. I've even moved the wheels into the kitchen (as the temperature's due to drop to 1 degree overnight), to give them the best chance of curing properly.


Do I need loads of detailing experience to do this?

No. Really, no. This was my first foray into the world of proper ceramics and I found it really easy to use. If you follow the instructions above there's not a lot that can go wrong. You'd have to be a complete ham-fisted loon to over-apply it. Buff it gently. I'm 'nowt but a weekend warrior when it comes to detailing, and I managed it. Therefore anyone can.

A little picture post application...

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Tomorrow morning I’ll add a topper coat of Gtechniq C2V3 - this should add a little more gloss and add to the durability, so makes sense to do while the wheels are off. Then repeat the whole process for the other 2 wheels!

Hope this guide helps anyone thinking about doing this. And happy to answer any questions if I can. I’ll report back on my opinions after the S3 has done a few miles and warranted the next wash, to let you how the C5 / C2V3 combo is working...
 
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Adam14

Registered User
Products and process I used recently are in the post I’ve linked to below mate (click on the up arrow to go to the thread then scroll down a bit!). Basically, after you’ve used your iron fall-out remover, give the wheels a good wipe down with IPA/panel wipe, and after you’ve treated with the C5 and let cure you could opt to ‘top’ with C2V3. Very happy with the results on mine. Whether you need to polish before you apply the C5 is really down to the condition of the wheels. Didn’t need to with mine...
Really appreciate the response thanks mate! I don't think they'll need polishing they have come up very well purely just after shampoo and tar remover so should be fine. Wasn't sure if polish was needed to provide a "clean" surface for it to stick to!
Maybe some black Friday deals about, was looking at carbon collective platinum wheels but note everyone on here seems to use GTechniq!

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jassyo06

T-Cut King !
Really appreciate the response thanks mate! I don't think they'll need polishing they have come up very well purely just after shampoo and tar remover so should be fine. Wasn't sure if polish was needed to provide a "clean" surface for it to stick to!
Maybe some black Friday deals about, was looking at carbon collective platinum wheels but note everyone on here seems to use GTechniq!

Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk
Kamikaze is the best alloy wheel ceramic mate ye only get what you pay for......as for polishing it maybe a idea to go over the diamond cut facets with some polish of sorts.....it'll refine the the fine scratches out
 

Adam14

Registered User
Kamikaze is the best alloy wheel ceramic mate ye only get what you pay for......as for polishing it maybe a idea to go over the diamond cut facets with some polish of sorts.....it'll refine the the fine scratches out
Good shout on the polish for the face of the alloy, can't see polishing doing any harm. Got some AF triple which should do the trick.

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Jimbob76

Roof Rails Enthusiast
Kamikaze is the best alloy wheel ceramic mate ye only get what you pay for......as for polishing it maybe a idea to go over the diamond cut facets with some polish of sorts.....it'll refine the the fine scratches out

I did look at Kamikaze Stance when I did my rims a few weeks ago, but it's ruddy expensive! @84 bangers for 30 mls it is twice the price of C5 and both quote the same durability (c. 2 years if you believe that). Definitely an uber premium price tag pal. The ye get what ye pay for argument is true, to a point (and I'm a firm believer in the buy cheap buy twice school of thought). I know you've used C5 before pal, have you Kamikaze Stance’d since, and seriously rate it twice as good mate?
 
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NevMan

Well known member
What's the application process mate? I've taken the summers off my car (tyre place didn't note which tyre came from where, despite me asking)
I've washed them and tar remover, will plan to fall out remover next weekend. Can I then go straight for the ceramic application or should I polish first?

Sent from my HD1913 using Tapatalk

As @Jimbob76 says, you don’t need to polish, but I like to give them a light go just to ensure surface is fully clean and shiny before IPA and then coat, really easy but takes time if done methodically.
 

Jimbob76

Roof Rails Enthusiast
As @Jimbob76 says, you don’t need to polish, but I like to give them a light go just to ensure surface is fully clean and shiny before IPA and then coat, really easy but takes time if done methodically.

I’m interested. Didn’t bother polishing when doing mine but did you hand polish (and if so what did you use pal), or mechanical intervention with diddy DA?
 

NevMan

Well known member
I’m interested. Didn’t bother polishing when doing mine but did you hand polish (and if so what did you use pal), or mechanical intervention with diddy DA?

Mechanical mate, with mini da
 

NevMan

Well known member
I did look at Kamikaze Stance when I did my rims a few weeks ago, but it's ruddy expensive! @84 bangers for 30 mls it is twice the price of C5 and both quote the same durability (c. 2 years if you believe that). Definitely an uber premium price tag pal. The ye get what ye pay for argument is true, to a point (and I'm a firm believer in the buy cheap buy twice school of thought). I know you've used C5 before pal, have you Kamikaze Stance’d since, and seriously rate it twice as good mate?

I also contemplated stance, but then thought to myself, I am likely to redo the wheels every off season anyway, so why bother paying WAY more than double. 30ml C5 cost me like £25, no way can stance be 4 times as good, IMHO
 

NevMan

Well known member
Good shout on the polish for the face of the alloy, can't see polishing doing any harm. Got some AF triple which should do the trick.

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That is pretty much what I did, polished the faces
 

SPIKE_

Vorsprung durch Technik
I also contemplated stance, but then thought to myself, I am likely to redo the wheels every off season anyway, so why bother paying WAY more than double. 30ml C5 cost me like £25, no way can stance be 4 times as good, IMHO
That’s the same stance that I have taken (Excuse the pun!). Kamikaze is crazy money, and just can’t justify the outlay.
 

jassyo06

T-Cut King !
That’s the same stance that I have taken (Excuse the pun!). Kamikaze is crazy money, and just can’t justify the outlay.

Lol 15% off just now from ultimate finish
I spray on wet coat or the likes weekly same idea far less work
 
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