Nev’s Carbon Black MY19 G01 BMW X3 M40i

NevMan

Well known member
All,

So many of you will know that I have defected to the dark side (BMW), but detailing is detailing, and I plan on staying active on this forum, as that is what I spend a lot of my spare time doing (detailing that is!)

So, I picked up my New BMW X3 M40i in Carbon Black (Metallic with dark blue hue in certain light), and told the dealer in no uncertain terms NOT TO TOUCH THE CAR, apart from the minimum for PDI (Pre-Delivery Inspection).

Reveal.jpg
Bonnet.jpg
Roof.jpg
Dash.jpg
Dash2.jpg
Doors.jpg


For the 1st time ever, I did the whole car decon, clean, prep, polish and ceramic coating myself (I had polished and Coated by Q5 bonnet and wings, but nothing like this!!)...

So, thanks to @Bristle Hound I had a starting point for a process (along with stuff I have learnt mainly from you lot of knowledgeable peeps, @jassyo06 being the Oracle in all honesty, and @Scotty75 @Jimbob76 @A4A4 @Tashfeen and many others)

So, here is my list (I have since edited this and amended to what I actually did in the end)

New car detail and protection:

Dealer had done the minimum for PDI, so roof, and bonnet will have plastic film on it, as well as doors, sills, mirrors etc containing transport film/coating/foam protection, and interior likely to have plastic on seats, protective film on displays/dash.

It is worth noting some of Phase 1 was not done at the same time, I ended up doing the interior clean and protection, as well as alloy coating in the days after ceramic coating.

It is best to chunk things up into manageable slices of time

Phase 1 - I did this on my driveway:

1. Take some before pictures. (Optional)
2. Remove film/cardboard/stickers slowly and carefully.
3. Spray on Bilt Hamber Korrosol (or preferred iron remover) to panels.
4. Snow foam with strong mix (varies what you add based on your snow foam lance, I used pretty much 2:1) - https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=400542 of BH Auto Foam, allow to dwell, PW off. I chose to spray more Korrosol on sills/wheels/mirrors/bumpers etc while S/F was dwelling.
5. (Optional – depends what paint feels like) Clay all panels with BH soft clay bar and plenty Glide clay lube. – I didn’t clay mine! Rinse with PW.
6. 2nd Snow foam with strong mix of BH Auto Foam, dwell, PW off.
7. I chose to then also use Valet Pro Citrus Pre-Wash, and then another PW off. (optional)
8. Clean wheels (BH Wheel cleaner) and Arches and shampoo
9. Two bucket wash with Lambswool Mitt, and strong mix of Valet Pro concentrated shampoo. (Really recommend this stuff!)
10. Rinse off with PW
11. (Optional) Final rinse with 0ppm water. (I use Raceglaze 7L 0ppm filter)
12. Dry.
13. Interior clean, leather cleaned (As new, I just wiped down with damp M/F, but could use Valet Pro Leather Soap and upholstery brush) and protected (Colourlock Leather Shield wiped on and left to dry – takes seconds), Gyeon Fabric Protect on carpets, dash cleaned and protected.
14. Windows/Windscreen/Pano Roof cleaned with AngleWax Vision (Needed Auto Finesse Glass polish on a stubborn mark on back windscreen that NOTHING else would remove) and coated with AngelWax H2Go (on outside).
15. Engine bay wiped down and plastics wiped with CarPro Perl.
16. Wheels coated with 2 x coats Planet Polish (Leave 20 mins between coats– I plan on getting wheels off at some point, and ceramic coating with Kamikaze Stance as have heard really good things about it. (GTechniq C5 another good option I have used before).
17. More pictures after this phase, but car already looking pretty good, but better is to come.

Alloy1.jpg
Alloy2.jpg

SnowFoam.jpg
SnowFoam2.jpg
Spoiler.jpg
Rinsed2.jpg
Dry.jpg


Phase 2 – For me, I made use of my friendly neighbour’s double garage and did this over a couple days (If you don’t have a garage, I would divide the coating into smaller chunks and be aware of upcoming weather conditions:

Note: If you left the car on driveway overnight, then a quick wash and dry is needed.

1. Correction:
a. Out comes the DA polisher (I use Flex) and mini DA out, and after taping up to separate up panels use CG Quantum Green pads, with Sonax Profiline Perfect Finish and 3500 and mini DA pads - Divide doors into two (horizontally), and polish.
b. Divide roof, and polish (pano with Menzerna 3500).
c. Bumpers and mirrors with mini da and yellow euro tec pads. (I hadn’t “properly cleaned mirrors it seems, as one yellow pad went almost black straight away – school boy error, and lesson learned (worth panel wiping before using DA!)

Ruined Mini DA pad, due to not panel wiping/cleaning mirror:

RuinedPad.jpg


d. Bonnet/wings into 4/6 and polish.
e. Rear quarters and other areas.
f. I used the Mini DA on the more intricate areas, but even this was tricky for example just below mirrors…could have done with extension for mini DA.
2. Panel wipe all panels (a few times – you can’t overdue this really) to ensure no polish residue is left.
3. Apply Gyeon Q2 Pure Ceramic coating to car with foam applicators and Gyeon mini M/F's, dividing bonnet/wings into 4/6, doors into 2 horizontals, bumpers into 3 etc. Slow and methodical is best. I went through about 3 applicators, 8-10 mini M/F applicator cloths, and about 6-8 disposable M/F’s.
4. Wipe off with M/F's to then be binned. (Used 6-8)
5. Coat of Gyeon Cure (as recommended by Gyeon, this is more important if car is outside in the elements).
6. Have a beer...or three
7. Take pics and post on ASN

FlexDA.jpg

RearWindscreenMark.jpg

BonnetPolished.jpg

ColourDepth.jpg
View attachment 184423
Q2Cure.jpg
FrontHigh.jpg
TapingUp.jpg
UsedMFs.jpg
ColourDepth.jpg

Side.jpg


I ended up starting the polishing @ 09:00am on the Friday, and was done by 18:30pm, with a few shorts breaks in between. That included applying Gyeon Q2 Pure to the whole car – including mirrors, sills, A pillars, roof (not pano). Probably best if you can divide this up more, but I was conscious I was using my neighbours’ garage, so didn’t really have unlimited time to leave car there. The car could then sit overnight and through the next day to fully cure (Gyeon recommend 24 hours).

I then got it out into the sunshine late afternoon on the Saturday, and took the below pictures, which don’t really do the depth of colour and shine justice.

FrontShine.jpg

FrontShine.jpg
FrontClose.jpg
Front.jpg
Alloy.jpg
Side.jpg
SideClose.jpg
SideRear.jpg


The moral of the story – Irrespective whether you have a Audi or in my case a BMW, and don’t have a lot of skills (particularly with DA and ceramic coating), it can be done with careful planning, methodical approach and care in application, as well as choosing products and equipment that work for you, and some highly recommended by others.

BUT...Most importantly...DON'T led the dealer "valeting" staff anywhere near your pride and joy, or you just make more work for yourself.

All in all, this cost me probably £300-£400 (Includes purchases of DA's, pads, polish, ceramic etc) and apart from Ceramic (I have a bit left), everything else I have plenty of spare stuff for future correction/detailing sessions.

Yes you can buy (or borrow) cheaper DA's, that is all up to you and your budget.



Some stars of the above in my opinion (in no particular order):

1. Flex XFE 7-15 150. DA Polisher.
2. CG Quantum Hex Green / Orange Pads.
3. Sonax Profiline Perfect Finish single stage polish.
4. Valet Pro concentrated shampoo.
5. Valet Pro Citrus Pre-Wash.
6. Bilt Hamber Autofoam.
7. Bilt Hamber Korrosol.
8. Gyeon Q2M Prep Panel Wipe (Also BH Cleanser Fluid)
9. Gyeon Q2 Pure Quartz Ceramic Coating.
10. Gyeon Cure.
11. Colourlock Leather Shield.
12. AngelWax Vision / H2Go.
13. Microfibre Madness Pads & Plush Korean M/F’s.
 
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jassyo06

T-Cut King !
A don't know how copy n paste
But I'll tell you something laddie
A car of this size is a huge task indeed to detail in the way you describe
The BMW X3 bodywork is full of little nooks and crannys ye should have kept the mini rotary lol
I would just drive the ****** for a week or two and enjoy it.... You'll need time to familiarise yourself with how best to wash and dry firstly ie where does it hold water etc etc
A car of this size is a 3 day shot at least to detail/coat to your high standards....... Mate
 
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Adam14

Registered User
Not a correction more of a question (sorry to hijack) but normally I do tar removal and iron fallout after a shampoo/wash but you've done it after the first snow foam. Is this just because as it's a new car the snow foam would get most of the dirt off already?

On a side note can highly recommend the AMDetails clay bar. Done great stuff on my S3 and S5 and just need water as lube.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
 

V6_Man

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Thanks mate, in my phase 2, I was allowing 2 days for polish and coat.

Will get a mini da at some point

Let me know if you need to use it and I'll post it back. I won't be needing it before 14-15 June anyways.
 

jassyo06

T-Cut King !
Thanks mate, in my phase 2, I was allowing 2 days for polish and coat.

Will get a mini da at some point
I would do the usual snow foam wash and dry Then do the korrosol/wheel cleaner part l snow foamed the car whilst the korrosol/wheel cleaner was on the panels it left the cars paint Immaculate and gleaming
 

V6_Man

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Not a correction more of a question (sorry to hijack) but normally I do tar removal and iron fallout after a shampoo/wash but you've done it after the first snow foam. Is this just because as it's a new car the snow foam would get most of the dirt off already?

On a side note can highly recommend the AMDetails clay bar. Done great stuff on my S3 and S5 and just need water as lube.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

When you say shampoo/wash do you mean you decon after touch wash or is it referring to Snow Foam?

The whole idea behind decon/de-tar before touch wash is to ensure your paint is clear of any organic/non-organic materials. So, ideally you'd SF, decon/tar, clay, rinse and then touch wash.
 

V6_Man

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I would do the usual snow foam wash and dry Then do the korrosol/wheel cleaner part l snow foamed the car whilst the korrosol/wheel cleaner was on the panels it left the cars paint Immaculate and gleaming

Interesting tip but then wouldn't the Korrosol/wheel cleaner stay longer than needed on the paint as you'd let the SF dwell as well, innit!
 

Jimbob76

Roof Rails Enthusiast
Mate you will be properly buckled after that routine! But fair play, and good shout to not let the dealer even remove the transportation film and packaging. It is pretty astonishing how filthy a brand new car can be (and how much correction work can be needed) especially if transported on an open trailer.

A few suggestions:

Phase 1, step 5: Not sure I’d bother adding Korrosol at this stage - save it and use it neat at step 7.

Then, two bucket wash, rinse and dry BEFORE tar remover (and rinse) then iron fallout remover (in that order - you want to shift any tar deposits before the iron fall-out stage). Try not to let the tar remover or Korrosol flash/dry on your paint - and possibly a good idea to tape up rubber seals/window trim when using both these products - tar remover in particular isn’t very kind to soft rubber trim. Then wash again to remove any residue from these products.

At step 11, I’d personally go with soft BH clay bar, rather than clay mitt - it is very good. Alternatively in2detailing fine grade clay is supposed to be as good (but think you’ve already got some BH clay already)
https://www.in2detailing.co.uk/in2detailing-fine-grade-clay-bar-200g-1536.html

For clay lube, Dodo Juice Born Slippy, Auto Finesse Glide or Gyeon Q2M Clay Lube will all do the job - of the 3 I’d probably go Gyeon - can dilute it down to make it go further and you’ve got a big motor to cover there pal!

A bit of inspiration for you, to ramp up your kid at Chrimble excitement levels (bit cheesy in places, and I wouldn’t have gone the PPF route myself - but shows how much iron ‘bleed’ can come off a brand new car)...


Looking forward to your write up mate :thumbs up:
 

NevMan

Well known member
I would do the usual snow foam wash and dry Then do the korrosol/wheel cleaner part l snow foamed the car whilst the korrosol/wheel cleaner was on the panels it left the cars paint Immaculate and gleaming

Mate, a little confused (not difficult) by your response.

so, snow foam, wash and dry, then korrosol/wheel cleaner, and another wash?

Any thoughts on the green pads with the BMW paint?
 

NevMan

Well known member
Mate you will be properly buckled after that routine! But fair play, and good shout to not let the dealer even remove the transportation film and packaging. It is pretty astonishing how filthy a brand new car can be (and how much correction work can be needed) especially if transported on an open trailer.

A few suggestions:

Phase 1, step 5: Not sure I’d bother adding Korrosol at this stage - save it and use it neat at step 7.

Then, two bucket wash, rinse and dry BEFORE tar remover (and rinse) then iron fallout remover (in that order - you want to shift any tar deposits before the iron fall-out stage). Try not to let the tar remover or Korrosol flash/dry on your paint - and possibly a good idea to tape up rubber seals/window trim when using both these products - tar remover in particular isn’t very kind to soft rubber trim. Then wash again to remove any residue from these products.

At step 11, I’d personally go with soft BH clay bar, rather than clay mitt - it is very good. Alternatively in2detailing fine grade clay is supposed to be as good (but think you’ve already got some BH clay already)
https://www.in2detailing.co.uk/in2detailing-fine-grade-clay-bar-200g-1536.html

For clay lube, Dodo Juice Born Slippy, Auto Finesse Glide or Gyeon Q2M Clay Lube will all do the job - of the 3 I’d probably go Gyeon - can dilute it down to make it go further and you’ve got a big motor to cover there pal!

A bit of inspiration for you, to ramp up your kid at Chrimble excitement levels (bit cheesy in places, and I wouldn’t have gone the PPF route myself - but shows how much iron ‘bleed’ can come off a brand new car)...


Looking forward to your write up mate :thumbs up:
thanks @Jimbob76 , some very good points you make there, especially about the tar remover, wash, iron out etc. BUT...My thoughts on doing tar and iron out before wash, was to get rid of contaminants BEFORE touching paintwork?
[/QUOTE]

I like @Tashfeen order here:

When you say shampoo/wash do you mean you decon after touch wash or is it referring to Snow Foam?

The whole idea behind decon/de-tar before touch wash is to ensure your paint is clear of any organic/non-organic materials. So, ideally you'd SF, decon/tar, clay, rinse and then touch wash.

Yes, I have BH soft clay bar already (used on bonnet of Q5), so will probably stick with that, along with the AF Glide (have two bottles of the stuff!) and before you ask...no, I will need this for the big thing :)
 

NevMan

Well known member
Let me know if you need to use it and I'll post it back. I won't be needing it before 14-15 June anyways.
thanks mate, but the postage is just ridiculous as you know.

:)
 

jassyo06

T-Cut King !
When you say shampoo/wash do you mean you decon after touch wash or is it referring to Snow Foam?

The whole idea behind decon/de-tar before touch wash is to ensure your paint is clear of any organic/non-organic materials. So, ideally you'd SF, decon/tar, clay, rinse and then touch wash.

Your going right over the detailing ********** mate inorganic/organic matter.... Lol too pansy wamsy.... For me I just get the job done in the most efficient way l can think of... And am very fussy with all my superficial materialistic guff lol
 
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jassyo06

T-Cut King !
Mate, a little confused (not difficult) by your response.

so, snow foam, wash and dry, then korrosol/wheel cleaner, and another wash?

Any thoughts on the green pads with the BMW paint?
I snow foam, wash, rinse and dry Then do the spray on paint decon, snowfoam whilst decon is dwelling, rinse and wash dry again....... Your car won't claying after this.... Claying a car is optional as is tar remover especially on a brand new car

Green pads 4 of l used these on the M4
 

Jimbob76

Roof Rails Enthusiast
thanks @Jimbob76 , some very good points you make there, especially about the tar remover, wash, iron out etc. BUT...My thoughts on doing tar and iron out before wash, was to get rid of contaminants BEFORE touching paintwork?


Fair enough mate - my logic is that tar and iron are dirt that has bonded to your paint, i.e. you’re not going to be moving it around on your paint with your wash mitt, and therefore not creating swirl marks. A gentle contact wash beforehand means that you’ve removed any loose dirt sitting on top of bonded contaminants, so when you hit them with tar and iron removers, those products get straight to work more effectively. That’s how it works in my head anyway. Subjective, and I’m sure t’other way around is fine too!
 

V6_Man

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Your going right over the detailing wankometer mate inorganic/organic matter.... Lol too pansy wamsy.... For me I just get the job done in the most efficient way l can think of... And am very fussy with all my superficial materialistic guff lol

I was approaching it the "Breaking Bad" style @jassyo06 ;)
 

NevMan

Well known member
Your going right over the detailing wankometer mate inorganic/organic matter.... Lol too pansy wamsy.... For me I just get the job done in the most efficient way l can think of... And am very fussy with all my superficial materialistic guff lol
mate, I just burst out laughing at that...."**********", "pansy wamsy"...genius!

but....he is right :)
 

Adam14

Registered User
When you say shampoo/wash do you mean you decon after touch wash or is it referring to Snow Foam?

The whole idea behind decon/de-tar before touch wash is to ensure your paint is clear of any organic/non-organic materials. So, ideally you'd SF, decon/tar, clay, rinse and then touch wash.
Yes decon after touch wash. As all videos I've seen from detailers have done it this way

So rinse, snow foam, rinse, touch wash, rinse, fallout, tar, clay (as a summarised step by step) as I've seen it.

If this is wrong, learning curve indeed!

I'd have assumed fallout and tar removal on a dirty car ( as SF only gets off so much) wouldn't be very beneficial.

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Adam14

Registered User
Fair enough mate - my logic is that tar and iron are dirt that has bonded to your paint, i.e. you’re not going to be moving it around on your paint with your wash mitt, and therefore not creating swirl marks. A gentle contact wash beforehand means that you’ve removed any loose dirt sitting on top of bonded contaminants, so when you hit them with tar and iron removers, those products get straight to work more effectively. That’s how it works in my head anyway. Subjective, and I’m sure t’other way around is fine too!
That's how I've done it (and seen on the youtubes by noticeable detailers).

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NevMan

Well known member
Yes decon after touch wash. As all videos I've seen from detailers have done it this way

So rinse, snow foam, rinse, touch wash, rinse, fallout, tar, clay (as a summarised step by step) as I've seen it.

If this is wrong, learning curve indeed!

I'd have assumed fallout and tar removal on a dirty car ( as SF only gets off so much) wouldn't be very beneficial.

Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

It does make sense, get all the dirt of 1st, but I did think that it is things like tar and metal particles that introduce scratches etc, hence why I thought doing the spray on tar and iron out before touching paint. But maybe being anal as clay will remove anyway and introduce some minor marring that polishing gets out easily
 

Adam14

Registered User
It does make sense, get all the dirt of 1st, but I did think that it is things like tar and metal particles that introduce scratches etc, hence why I thought doing the spray on tar and iron out before touching paint. But maybe being anal as clay will remove anyway and introduce some minor marring that polishing gets out easily
This is the video I follow: for a "full" clean

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NevMan

Well known member

NevMan

Well known member
@X3man can see this is going to develop into a detailing dilemma for you soon.

Best do what you know is best, it's your car. You had the Q5 for practice.
I know, but we all know detailing is so so subjective. I plan on mainly following my method, but already had some really handy hints and tips, so intend collating a list, that then gives people options :)
 

NevMan

Well known member

SPIKE_JCW

Vorsprung durch Technik
All,

So many of you will know that I have defected to the dark side (BMW), but detailing is detailing, and I plan on staying active on this forum, as that is what I spend a lot of my spare time doing (detailing that is!)

I am picking up my new car (hopefully next week sometime), and have told the dealer in no uncertain terms NOT TO TOUCH THE CAR, apart from the minimum for PDI (Pre Delivery Inspection).

For the 1st time ever, I am going to be doing the whole car decon, clean, prep, polish and ceramic coat myself (have done bits and pieces before, but nothing like this)...

So, thanks to @Bristle Hound I had a starting point for a process (along with stuff I have learnt mainly from you lot of knowledgeable peeps, @jassyo06 being the Yoda, and @Scotty75 @Jimbob76 @A4A4 @Tashfeen and many others)

So, here is my list, please feel free to copy/paste adding/changing suggesting, and hopefully by the end of it, a rock solid list that others can use if we make the list sticky.

New car detail and protection:

Phase 1 - To be done on my driveway:

1. Remove remaining film/cardboard/stickers etc
2. Wheels decon with Tar remover and iron remover.
3. Wheel arches cleaned with APC.
4. Wheels cleaned with wheel cleaner, PW, shampoo, PW.
5. Snow foam with strong mix of BH Auto Foam / Cleanliness, and add in some BH Korrosol for good measure. May also Pre-wash with Valet Pro Citrus PW and rinse with PW.
6. Paint de-tarred with Tar remover.
7. Paint de-con with Iron remover.
8. 2nd Snow foam with strong mix of BH Auto Foam / Cleanliness and rinse with PW.
9. Two bucket wash with Microfibre Madness Mitt, and strong mix of BH Auto Wash / CarPro Reset / Gyeon Bathe Essence.
10. Rinse and final rinse with 0ppm water.
11. Clay all panels with soft claybar / mitt and plenty Glide clay lube (recommendations welcome), thinking either BH clay bar as have used before, or a Clay Mitt?
12. Interior clean, leather cleaned and protected, including carpets.
13. Windows/Windscreen cleaned with AngleWax vision, and coated with H2Go (on outside).
14. Engine bay wiped down and plastics wiped with CarPro Perl.
15. Wheels coated with 2 x coats Planet Polish - Ceramic with C5 for another day when I get wheels off!

Phase 2 - Make use of neighbours garage (hopefully following some negotiation), and do over 2 days.
If next day from Phase 1, then quick wash and dry 1st.

1. Get the Flex DA out, and after taping up to seperate up panels use CG Quantum Green pads, with Sonax Profiline Perfect Finish - this will be done over probably 2-3 days (hoping to garage car).
2. Panel wipe all panels to ensure no polish residue is left.
3. Apply Gyeon Q2 Pure Ceramic coating to car with foam applicators and Gyeon mini M/F's.
4. Wipe off with M/F's to then be binned.
5. Have a beer...or three
Best of luck.....I felt wrecked just reading your process! You’ll need a holiday after tackling that lot :tearsofjoy:

I will look forward to it though, as I love a good detailing thread :icon thumright:
 

jassyo06

T-Cut King !
I snow foamed, washed and dried my car l then sprayed neat korrosol on it whilst it was doing the burdz n the beez to my paint l fired some snow foam on top..... Why? it not only helped the rinsing process of the korrosol it also gave it a longer dwelling period without risk of drying up on the panels and it gave me a good indication of how effective the korrosol was... It actually turned all the foam pink as it done its business, now l know this ain't in the detailing BIBLE but l just had one of them Maverick moments.... Lol and it worked awesomely l was astounded by it......so easy to machine polish afterwards
For me claying = never had need to do it...... = my cars have never required it after fallout remover, tar remover and a bit massaging etc etc ....but this is the thing, if after all the contamination has been done and you still feel some roughnes on some panels, by all means clay the fooker, don't clay just for sake of it....
I would use Sonax perfect finish on the paint, no new car should required anything more aggressive, inspect and go with what you see and feel that's what to do......mate
 

NevMan

Well known member
I snow foamed, washed and dried my car l then sprayed neat korrosol on it whilst it was doing the burdz n the beez to my paint l fired some snow foam on top..... Why? it not only helped the rinsing process of the korrosol it also gave it a longer dwelling period without risk of drying up on the panels and it gave me a good indication of how effective the korrosol was... It actually turned all the foam pink as it done its business, now l know this ain't in the detailing BIBLE but l just had one of them Maverick moments.... Lol and it worked awesomely l was astounded by it......so easy to machine polish afterwards
For me claying = never had need to do it...... = my cars have never required it after fallout remover, tar remover and a bit massaging etc etc ....but this is the thing, if after all the contamination has been done and you still feel some roughnes on some panels, by all means clay the fooker, don't clay just for sake of it....
I would use Sonax perfect finish on the paint, no new car should required anything more aggressive, inspect and go with what you see and feel that's what to do......mate

Thanks mate, that does sound like a plan, SF after wash/dry and then korrosol, and maybe some agitation in hard to reach areas.

Ok on the Sonax, are the green hex logic going to be ok too?
 

NevMan

Well known member
Best of luck.....I felt wrecked just reading your process! You’ll need a holiday after tackling that lot :tearsofjoy:

I will look forward to it though, as I love a good detailing thread :icon thumright:

Lol, I did chuckle at your comment. To be honest going to probably do this whole thing over say 3/4 days in total.

Day 1: wash wash wash decon decon etc etc. Interior clean, treat and protect, alloys (not ceramic).

Day 2: quick wash, move into garage (already cleared with neighbour, cost will be to detail his beetle cabrio when his paint work finished) start on polishing and see how far I get.

Day 3: finish polishing (if not done), panel wipe and start ceramic coating.

Day 4: finish coating and leave overnight.

I don’t anticipate this being full 4 days, but probably at least 5-7 hour shifts

 

Bristle Hound

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Lol, I did chuckle at your comment. To be honest going to probably do this whole thing over say 3/4 days in total.

Day 1: wash wash wash decon decon etc etc. Interior clean, treat and protect, alloys (not ceramic).

Day 2: quick wash, move into garage (already cleared with neighbour, cost will be to detail his beetle cabrio when his paint work finished) start on polishing and see how far I get.

Day 3: finish polishing (if not done), panel wipe and start ceramic coating.

Day 4: finish coating and leave overnight.

I don’t anticipate this being full 4 days, but probably at least 5-7 hour shifts

@X3man - That ^ is SERIOUS commitment Nev :)
 

NevMan

Well known member
@X3man - That ^ is SERIOUS commitment Nev :)

Haha, thanks Col. I am getting a car to exact spec, engine etc that I have never done before, so probably OTT, but want to do this properly and see what I can achieve. May fold in a heap halfway through or be divorced but HAVE to give it a go.

I will see how it goes, may end up just decon, correct and wax and ceramic another time, depends when I get the car as planning on taking a day or two leave....that way SWMBO won’t be there to get on my case
 

jassyo06

T-Cut King !
Thanks mate, that does sound like a plan, SF after wash/dry and then korrosol, and maybe some agitation in hard to reach areas.

Ok on the Sonax, are the green hex logic going to be ok too?
Aye but you'll need at least 4 new green pads just because of the size of the car.... mate
 

jassyo06

T-Cut King !
Lol, I did chuckle at your comment. To be honest going to probably do this whole thing over say 3/4 days in total.

Day 1: wash wash wash decon decon etc etc. Interior clean, treat and protect, alloys (not ceramic).

Day 2: quick wash, move into garage (already cleared with neighbour, cost will be to detail his beetle cabrio when his paint work finished) start on polishing and see how far I get.

Day 3: finish polishing (if not done), panel wipe and start ceramic coating.

Day 4: finish coating and leave overnight.

I don’t anticipate this being full 4 days, but probably at least 5-7 hour shifts



It should take a full 7 hours to machine it mate
 

V6_Man

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It should take a full 7 hours to machine it mate

I'd say 7.5 hours. I'd put the .5 for the 5 cuppas he's going to be needing during this whole process ... Lol.

Jokes aside, @jassyo06 i might try your above mentioned technique. And I also agree with you on that if the car is decon'd properly you won't need to clay it. The last 4 cars that I detailed the only place Claybar picked up anything was around the lower sills, everywhere else the bar itself was pretty clean, which at times made me think I wasnt claying properly.
 

NevMan

Well known member
Aye but you'll need at least 4 new green pads just because of the size of the car.... mate

Thanks mate, I ordered those awhile back so have 5 green pads
 

NevMan

Well known member
I'd say 7.5 hours. I'd put the .5 for the 5 cuppas he's going to be needing during this whole process ... Lol.

Jokes aside, @jassyo06 i might try your above mentioned technique. And I also agree with you on that if the car is decon'd properly you won't need to clay it. The last 4 cars that I detailed the only place Claybar picked up anything was around the lower sills, everywhere else the bar itself was pretty clean, which at times made me think I wasnt claying properly.

When I clayed my bonnet of Q5 a few weeks back, clay bar picked up hardly anything
 

NevMan

Well known member
Fair enough mate - my logic is that tar and iron are dirt that has bonded to your paint, i.e. you’re not going to be moving it around on your paint with your wash mitt, and therefore not creating swirl marks. A gentle contact wash beforehand means that you’ve removed any loose dirt sitting on top of bonded contaminants, so when you hit them with tar and iron removers, those products get straight to work more effectively. That’s how it works in my head anyway. Subjective, and I’m sure t’other way around is fine too!

That does sound logical, and think you are spot on (excuse the pun), bonded materials aren’t going to move around and damage paintwork, so clean and dry and then hit with tar, korrosol and then another SF
 

NevMan

Well known member
I snow foam, wash, rinse and dry Then do the spray on paint decon, snowfoam whilst decon is dwelling, rinse and wash dry again....... Your car won't claying after this.... Claying a car is optional as is tar remover especially on a brand new car

Green pads 4 of l used these on the M4

Ok, makes sense mate, and on the pad front, dividing car up...use 4-5 pads.. bonnet/wings, roof/rear, left side, right side. Can’t imagine smaller intricate areas particularly needing correction, so hand polish, panel wipe and fire on coating should do. If there are they can wait for another day when a mini da has been purchased
 

jassyo06

T-Cut King !
Ok, makes sense mate, and on the pad front, dividing car up...use 4-5 pads.. bonnet/wings, roof/rear, left side, right side. Can’t imagine smaller intricate areas particularly needing correction, so hand polish, panel wipe and fire on coating should do. If there are they can wait for another day when a mini da has been purchased
Your like young @MattSedg you've ceramic coated yer existing car then ye sell it bit **** from elbow.... mate lol
 
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