So door blades are just 4 screws and slides off towards the rear And the tears just slide off towards the front B pillars are just 3 rivets to drill out behind the door seal and pull off took less than a hour to do using a screwdriver a magnet for the screws that drop in the door and a bit of silicone glue for the b pillars
You lucky boy, very nice sir very nice indeed, these will go on the never ending list lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It’s a Slippery slope I’m now debating on weather to get the spoiler, wing mirror covers, and the rear bumper insert, and sell one set of my Ali mirrors and the oem rear bumper insert that still in its packet and been discontinued
I wouldn’t go too much mate personally that’s a nice set it’s subtle but it’s your pride and joy spoiler might work... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is it, my plan was to keep it original looking on the outside But the door blades were knackered so was the best option, all that can wait if I decide to go that route need to concentrate on gets it running, and I’m keeping my eye out for a set of r32 seats that I want to put some blue alcantara inserts in to match the interior instead of the grey. Would love to do it to wingbacks but no way I’m paying £2k for two seats
Yeah r32 seats aren’t more affordable speaking to a guy that breaks them they go for £600 for full leather and the half leather are £1100, so il be doing it to a full Leather seat
I don’t mind them probably more comfortable than a bucket seat, will be keeping the s3 ones aswell, but that’s an issue for another day
I got the door hinge alignment tool and unless your supposed to slacken the hinge bolts I think I’m just bending the door instead so will have to bite the bullet and order some hinges I think todays delivery from rushworth
So went to fit the radiator today and there is a bit of a difference So much that the ac compressor bracket would not fit around the radiator, no problem just bend it out a bit, problem solved! No such luck With the bracket bent round the compressor and bracket hit the front panel stopping the radiator from fitting in Looks like I will have to cut the bracket off and make one up afterwards
its not a problem if you want to ditch the ac, but cutting the bracket won’t work as the hard pipe off the rad still won’t let it come round enough so on to plan b
Slight trim on the plastic panel got it back a bit more but the front panel would sit on the car as it was clashing So of with the 2 screw lugs making sure not cut in to the box frame and reduce strength, I don’t see this being a problem holding on with one screw as some ditch the crash bar altogether and with the fixing point any the top of the panel on the wing and all the others the other side there is no movement
So it’s on nice and sturdy with the little off the side, now one problem I have noticed is because the radiator is thicker it pushed the rad pack backwards which now clashing with the throttle body , don’t see this being an issue with the 1.8t as you can always swap to the 3.2 fans for a bit of room also the 1.8 throttle body being smaller so to get round this I need to rather get a smaller throttle body if that will work or if possible get a elbow piece fab’d up with a flange at each end to relocate the throttle body slightly, more fun and games, hopefully get a day off soon and finish fitting the loom and extend the alternator and and air con pump
Not convinced... I'd mock something up before spanking 200 bucks on that tbh... Pic of mine with a 70mm tb... (which would be a cheaper and proven solution) <tuffty/>
Yeah I won’t be buying that I’d get one made cheaper, I originally got over the clearance issue but the extra width of the csf rad has made a tight spot even tighter I probably need to gain 15mm clearance than what’s there now
If I was doing mine again I would be considering modding the inlet mani to have the TB in the normal position in line with the plenum... its the approach Bill and I discussed doing for his TT when he gets around to it... with a relocated battery its the more sensible option... The issue you may have if you try this extension route is that the coolant lines will be in the way... room is pretty tight there <tuffty/>
Yeah I did consider ditching the inlet but going to stick with it, no doubt I will have to get something fab’d it’s my own fault should of stuck with the oem rad until it gave me issues
I am looking into changing the rad on mine tbh... the CFS was on the list... if it were me I'd be looking at modding the front clip to move the whole assembly forward if at all possible but than the FMIC would dictate how far you can go... The 70mm TB is still a viable option IMO... I think there could be enough clearance as the side of the TB is flush with the side of the inlet... that could give you the room you need without resorting to something more involved... I would offer to send you my old broken one for the cost of postage to evaluate but I chucked it out last week while having a clear out :/ <tuffty/>
I will order one and see, if needs be with the smaller tb and a 10mm spacer on the front panel and maybe trim the front off the crash bar to compensate I think that would get it,
In other news my r32 must of new I was thinking of trading it in, notice it sounds like a bag of spanners
Where did you get your cover from TJ I’m looking for one but don’t wanna spend silly money if it’s not worth it... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It’s just an ebay one kept the car clean the aerial has poked through it but for £20 it’s lasted 2 years so far
The other one I had (grey) had straps to hold it down this one just elastic around the edge fairly tight fit and stays on in the wind
Bought one with a strap on it went all out and paid 39.99 just cos they had positive feedback lol should slow down the door rust hopefully, these door blades on these cars will be the death of most, lucky loads get broke for parts Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Which ones broke on yours? I was looking at my drivers one the nylon strip is in two pieces so if you have another broken one is it possible to put the two good nylon strips in the one door blade? Or cut the strip like in pictures and slide the piece down to the endand screw in to it with a self tappers job done
They’re both pretty ****** mate tbh One got done by a previous owner by silicone and one sides been drilled through the door for another hole lol I know comical I’ll probably end up getting them carbon door blades if I ever respray the car Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
TJ Quick question I’m looking at HPA Motorsports haldex controller they’re £590 give or take the dollar rate how comes you bought the blue haldex and not that ?? The kit sounds mustard... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
No reason really the blue are no longer available so don’t come up often, from what I gather the hpa controller will enhance the blue the a bit more, I will be getting the hpa pack next time I go Florida even though il probably never change settings so I don’t have to pay the import as with import and shipping you are close to £700
I just went on there website and it’s 699 dollars ends up being £50 shipping so topped up around £600 shipped to the uk rather than 750 off awesome gti is that right ?? I thought the hpa replaces the blue controller ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
