My S3 Thread
- Thread starter Sam_
- Start date
Sam_
Down under
Sorry, another pretty boring update. The custom bits to fit the DQ500 have arrived. I still need to source a few remaining parts for that such as:
I think I'll be able to get the paddles working on a later CAN steering wheel. The Mk4 R32 and TT Mk1 DSG wheels didn't use CAN so can't be used. That can come later.
One thing I had to do was re-mate the transfer case and box as the breakers pulled them apart and trashed the seal in the process so had to get that changed out and replace the stretch bolts:
Here's the custom DSG bits:
I got a decent deal on nice Setrab 25 row cooler kit so I grabbed that. It's a little large but I'll mount it where one of the OEM SMICs were:
So the next step is to get the engine in once the remaining bolts etc arrive from the US. Getting a bit closer now.
- Driveshaft heat shield (5N0407720B)
- Propshaft heat shield (5Q0521441B)
- Transfer case bracket - I'm using one from a 2.0 TSI (0A6409905H) which should work
- Tiguan loom for the shifter - the cable only engages park, the rest is done via CAN
- DQ500 loom - surprisingly the box only needs 5 wires to work. The connector can be bought separately (1J0927320) but then I need to faff around finding pins. There's a loom adapter for the 8P RS3 (8P0971499A) that can be used but I can't seem to find anyone who stocks it any more. I can order it here for a whopping $120 so might adapt a loom if I can get one for reasonable money.
I think I'll be able to get the paddles working on a later CAN steering wheel. The Mk4 R32 and TT Mk1 DSG wheels didn't use CAN so can't be used. That can come later.
One thing I had to do was re-mate the transfer case and box as the breakers pulled them apart and trashed the seal in the process so had to get that changed out and replace the stretch bolts:
Here's the custom DSG bits:
I got a decent deal on nice Setrab 25 row cooler kit so I grabbed that. It's a little large but I'll mount it where one of the OEM SMICs were:
So the next step is to get the engine in once the remaining bolts etc arrive from the US. Getting a bit closer now.
Sam_
Down under
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2008
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- www.tuffty.co.uk
Have you run out of room in the house to hide parts so had to get an estate to hide more bits in? 
<tuffty/>
<tuffty/>
Great build thread, looking forward to seeing this come together. To get the paddles working I’d imagine you will need an a3/mk4 steering angle sensor with enough spare pins and a suitable steering column control module from a ttrs/rs3 for example, I have fitted an 8p fbmfsw in my s3 and I have managed to get the multi-function buttons working with my rns-e, there were 3 spare pins in my slip-ring/steering angle sensor which was all I needed to wire the buttons through the slip-ring/angle sensor to the 8p steering column control module which needed just 5 wires connected to get it working (battery+, ignition+, ground, infotainment can high and infotainment can low) I’d imagine the paddles will work in a similar way and communicate with the gearbox through the drivetrain can wires. I have another slip-ring with 6 spare pins, part number 1J0 959 654J so hopefully something like that would do the trick.
Sam_
Down under
Have you run out of room in the house to hide parts so had to get an estate to hide more bits in?
<tuffty/>
Haha she drives the R36 more than me so she'd definitely notice
Does the 8L have two CAN bus? I know the later have a drivetrain and comfort CAN bus but I thought the 8L only has one? Thanks for the part number that might be handy!
I think they have more than one, I think the diff, abs and ecu are talking to each other through drivetrain can.
My knowledge is fairly limited on these can bus systems, when I fitted my rns-e, the can wires between radio and clocks were already there, I just tapped in to those with the infotainment can wires from the 8p steering column control module ( this also has drivetrain can wires).
I have an engine conversion in my s3, a 2009 cr170 tdi and I remember connecting can wiring when I was making the conversion loom and had to connect can wires between the ecu and the diagnostic socket. The traction control and 4wd works as it did with the 1.8t.
When you fit your dq500 i think it will need to communicate with the shift lever, paddles and Ecu over the drivetrain can, you may need to fit a can gateway, I also read something about needing to change the abs module for one from a dsg mk1 Audi TT .
My knowledge is fairly limited on these can bus systems, when I fitted my rns-e, the can wires between radio and clocks were already there, I just tapped in to those with the infotainment can wires from the 8p steering column control module ( this also has drivetrain can wires).
I have an engine conversion in my s3, a 2009 cr170 tdi and I remember connecting can wiring when I was making the conversion loom and had to connect can wires between the ecu and the diagnostic socket. The traction control and 4wd works as it did with the 1.8t.
When you fit your dq500 i think it will need to communicate with the shift lever, paddles and Ecu over the drivetrain can, you may need to fit a can gateway, I also read something about needing to change the abs module for one from a dsg mk1 Audi TT .
Sam_
Down under
I've not heard that about the ABS module. It could well be the case. I guess I'll find out soon!
I finally had a spare few minutes this weekend and set about tackling the oil drain. I originally bought the TSR "line kit" when I bought the manifold and down pipe but I've never been happy with it. The supplied oil drain was the worst, using the cheapest Chinese parts they could get. It even had a section of rubber hose right after the drain, positioning it right next to the collector?! I had to ask for some fire sleeve and they sent just enough to cover the rubber. The fitting for the sump didn't even fit either. Suffice to say it's fit for the bin. I decided to make one using aluminium hard line to get away from the hot bits and then use some flex from that to the sump fitting, all in AN10. I wanted some flex as I'm not sure on the exact clocking of the CHRA etc until it's in the car. It took a few goes and a lot of measuring, fitting, measuring, cutting, bending etc:
I decided to use compression fittings rather than flair as they are just easier and since the application won't be dealing with pressure, they'll do fine:
Eventually I got my head around the bends required and was quite happy with the result.
The only questionable part is the part where it joins the sump but I don't think it should cause any issues but time will tell. Just need to tighten all the fittings down and it's done. One thing to check off the list! The coolant lines I'd have liked to remake in hardline but given the time I've taken so far I think I'll just use the included lines and get some decent fire sleeve for them. I've got a new oil feed made up by HEL which will work fine.
I also ordered all the parts needed for fitting the fuel system. I went with Speedflow in the end, a local Australian company that's very well regarded for being top notch. I decided on all black fittings to match the silver/black theme and black PVC coated 200 series PTFE hose. AN8 feed, AN6 return. I'm going to mount the surge tank in the boot so I got some bulkhead fittings for the boot floor. I'm expecting some really cut up hands making up all the lines and fittings. That'll be a long day.
Next step; hire an engine crane and get the old engine out and off to it's new home.
I finally had a spare few minutes this weekend and set about tackling the oil drain. I originally bought the TSR "line kit" when I bought the manifold and down pipe but I've never been happy with it. The supplied oil drain was the worst, using the cheapest Chinese parts they could get. It even had a section of rubber hose right after the drain, positioning it right next to the collector?! I had to ask for some fire sleeve and they sent just enough to cover the rubber. The fitting for the sump didn't even fit either. Suffice to say it's fit for the bin. I decided to make one using aluminium hard line to get away from the hot bits and then use some flex from that to the sump fitting, all in AN10. I wanted some flex as I'm not sure on the exact clocking of the CHRA etc until it's in the car. It took a few goes and a lot of measuring, fitting, measuring, cutting, bending etc:
I decided to use compression fittings rather than flair as they are just easier and since the application won't be dealing with pressure, they'll do fine:
Eventually I got my head around the bends required and was quite happy with the result.
The only questionable part is the part where it joins the sump but I don't think it should cause any issues but time will tell. Just need to tighten all the fittings down and it's done. One thing to check off the list! The coolant lines I'd have liked to remake in hardline but given the time I've taken so far I think I'll just use the included lines and get some decent fire sleeve for them. I've got a new oil feed made up by HEL which will work fine.
I also ordered all the parts needed for fitting the fuel system. I went with Speedflow in the end, a local Australian company that's very well regarded for being top notch. I decided on all black fittings to match the silver/black theme and black PVC coated 200 series PTFE hose. AN8 feed, AN6 return. I'm going to mount the surge tank in the boot so I got some bulkhead fittings for the boot floor. I'm expecting some really cut up hands making up all the lines and fittings. That'll be a long day.
Next step; hire an engine crane and get the old engine out and off to it's new home.
Sam_
Down under
nice one sam!!!! you're gunna have to tutorial me on how to use that pipe bender! would love to learn
It's actually pretty straight forward to do. It just takes a bit of thought and a few practice goes as you can see! The bender I have was only $20 (eBay) but is pretty decent really. It does compress the bends a tiny bit but nothing major. I was lucky that Bunnings sell 3m lengths of 16mm hose which is basically 5/8" give or take and a lot cheaper than buying 25ft when I only needed a little bit. I've already spent a fortune on fittings.
I think I'm going to do the coolant lines in hard line now. I'd need to buy fire sleeve anyway so might as well do it once and do it properly. Not happy with the supplied line kit. I'm sure it'd probably be "ok" but I actually like doing the tubing now
Sam_
Down under
Some more minor-ish updates. Getting closer to getting it in now. Need to hire an engine hoist and just go for it.
I decided to make up the coolant lines in hard line as well since doing the drain went easier than expected and it's quite soothing getting the angles etc sorted. For the drain I used 5/8" which is roughly 15.875mm and luckily I could get away with the commonly available 16mm aluminium pipe so it was cheap. When it came to doing the coolant lines, they use 3/8", which is 9.525mm. Sadly 10mm pipe was too big for the fittings so I had to stump up for a 25ft reel and then the fuel line isn't quite as rigid as regular aluminium pipe - a trade off of easy to bend vs not being very strong. Anyway I got cracking:
I got my inspiration from Tuffty's build but as I'm using the aluminium pipe, it'll have a little more give in it to allow for expansion when things get warm.
I also decided to plumb in the wastegate water cooling ports. I've piggy backed onto the lines for the turbo which I think will be fine given the wastegate only has an4 fittings so less flow will go to the wastegate. I'm just waiting on the firesleeve for these hoses.
I decided to make up the coolant lines in hard line as well since doing the drain went easier than expected and it's quite soothing getting the angles etc sorted. For the drain I used 5/8" which is roughly 15.875mm and luckily I could get away with the commonly available 16mm aluminium pipe so it was cheap. When it came to doing the coolant lines, they use 3/8", which is 9.525mm. Sadly 10mm pipe was too big for the fittings so I had to stump up for a 25ft reel and then the fuel line isn't quite as rigid as regular aluminium pipe - a trade off of easy to bend vs not being very strong. Anyway I got cracking:
I got my inspiration from Tuffty's build but as I'm using the aluminium pipe, it'll have a little more give in it to allow for expansion when things get warm.
I also decided to plumb in the wastegate water cooling ports. I've piggy backed onto the lines for the turbo which I think will be fine given the wastegate only has an4 fittings so less flow will go to the wastegate. I'm just waiting on the firesleeve for these hoses.
Sam_
Down under
I also got a rather epic deal on some B7 RS4/C5 RS6 8 pot calipers. I'll investigate how easy they will be to fit to the S3, otherwise if too much effort is involved then they'll go on the R36. It looks like they'd be ok on a 334x32mm disc but I'd need to remove the brace (which Audi themselves have done on several models).
Sam_
Down under
It's been a long while since I've updated the thread. There's been some movement on the engine replacement front. Thanks to help from @IanPG, the old engine and gearbox are now out. I've also made a few other changes. There's probably a lot I've forgotten but here goes...
Brute IX rods, Trend pins and King bearings
When I received the built block, I was told it had the illusive standard JE wrist pins which are said to be notoriously weak. This posed a question of whether to change them while the engine was out of the car. In the end I bit the bullet and did it. I bought a set of Trend H13 tool steel wrist pins while I was in the US and brought them back. Trend make wrist pins for some of the fastest drag and race cars and are one of the best in the business. As I was going to have to remove the rods and pistons, I thought this would be a good opportunity to swap the rods for something a little more future-proof. In this case, a set of Brute IX I beam rods from Arnold at PagParts with some King bearings. I'd originally ordered a set of the Wiseco Boostline rods but Wiseco actually recalled them due to issues with the threads in the rod bolts. It took them a year to revise the design and I gave up waiting. They've now released the updated rods but it's too late and the Brute's should be fine anyway. Here's a pic of them mid swap (my hands were too greasy to take more!). The pistons and pins were all weight matched within 0.15g. I could have got them to 0.1g but didn't fancy removing material from the pistons and didn't have a lot of time.
While I was there I fitted a Cometic MLS gasket too. The Elring gasket I was using would have probably been fine but I got the Cometic at a great price so it was rude not too. I went with a .040 or 1mm thickness which should raise CR a bit. I have 8.5:1 pistons which aren't ideal.
ECUMasters EMU Black
I'd always wanted to find a standalone solution that could work with the DQ500 but the standalone DSG controllers were either wildly overpriced or not for sale at all. I gave up and settled on living with the limitations of the ME7.5 ECU instead. Then a friend shot me through a link to a video on Facebook of a DSG retrofitted car running an ECUMasters ECU that was communicating directly with the DQ250. This was promising. I contacted the video author who incidentally has an R30T S3 himself and he was also planning a DQ500 conversion. He told me ECUMasters were adding support for the DQ500 ECU so I put an order in for one with the adapter loom and a couple of pressure sensors (fuel and oil, a 4 bar map sensor is built-in). I'm expecting it to arrive any day now!
Haltech/Racepak IQ3s Street Dash
Having had a Stack dash for a previous build when I lived in the UK, I'd always fancied another "race" dash. I did some research and there were a few options; Racepak, AEM, ECUMasters ADU, Race Technology, AiM. In the end I settled on the Haltech branded Racepak IQ3s mainly because it's available for very reasonable money locally, and it will communicate with the ECUMasters ECU without any additional expensive modules or cables that the other dashes seemed to require.
The first challenge after receiving the dash was working out how I was going to mount it into the standard gauge cluster. @IanPG gave me an old S3 cluster (thanks!) that I could hack up so I started by gutting the insides and eventually the outer clear plastic. The plan was to mount a piece of matte black acrylic over the top of the old dial housing and mount the Racepak to that.
I then took a photo of the cluster and converted it to vector format so that I could fiddle with it and print out templates...
The first template was made and then laid up to the cluster. Looked good...
So I cut it using a dremel and gingerly (acrylic is an **** to drill) drilled the three holes to mount the dash.
Then I glued the panel to the housing, removed the masking and ******, it's gloss. It turns out the listing didn't point that out until after I'd told them of the issue and they went and edited it. Cheeky ******.
I could have easily called it a day there and just said to myself it'll look fine with the piano black accents in the car but I knew it'd bug me. I also wasn't 100% set on having the dash poking out so much and there were a few issues with the original template. I looked around and found a nice billet flush mount bezel for the Racepak that would *just* fit into the housing. I got an order in for a new piece of acrylic and the nice flush mount bezel. To cut a long story short, after some tweaks to the template and some more cutting and drilling, the end result is much nicer...
Bosch Motorsports 74mm Throttle Body and Wiggins adapter
I originally had planned to run a Hemi 80mm TB but after speaking with a few folks, it seemed to be a bit oversized and can often end up in less than ideal throttle response. I decided to get the Bosch 74mm TB. It's rebuild-able too which the Hemi and R32 ones aren't should the need arise. I sold the Hemi and bought one of these locally. Since taking this picture, I've swapped the homemade paper gasket to the RS3 MLS gasket since it's the same PCD and bore.
Billet Bling
I'm ditching the AC and PS pumps (I'm going for an electric PS pump I got from @StaceyS3 ) and wanted a nicer bracket to mount the alternator. I got in contact with INA/Issam as they make a compact alternator kit using a small Denso alternator. Issam told me they also sell a kit to retain the standard alternator which I thought would actually be more useful as I'm going to be hanging a fair bit of power hungry parts (eletric PAS pump, 2 Walbro 450 pumps, the DSG etc) off it. Issam is like a pusher for billet parts. I ended up ordering the alternator mount, a billet oil filter housing, a billet lower timing belt cover and a stainless coolant pipe that runs across the front of the block. They all look great and fit well. I might have to run the original smaller 06a oil filter but that's not the end of the world. Since I needed a dipstick and tube, I also ordered one from WhanAB too. In raw aluminium of course.
INA Sump
I have the Forge sump currently which is more than adequate for my needs I think but as a local guy offered me an INA/Issam baffled sump for very reasonable money, it was rude not too. It's brand new and unused. For anyone who's not seen his sump, it's custom made from sheet aluminium and a laser cut flange for the sump. It has full baffling and "hugs" the oil pickup to prevent surge. It also adds 0.7L oil volume to the sump as an added bonus. I've not received it yet but here's a stock photo of it...
CSF Radiator
I had the CSF radiator on the back burner for a couple of years but hadn't seen many reviews of it in use. Then I noticed @Prawn bought one and seemed impressed so I finally pulled the trigger. Getting them in Australia isn't cheap but it seemed worthwhile if the quality is there (which it seems to be). This has arrived but it's still boxed up.
What's left?
- Fit the sump when it arrives
- Build the driveshafts from a mix of DQ500 and MQ500 inner joints with S3 outer joints
- Remove clutch pedal and MC
- Remove AC pipework
- Remove PS pipework
- Clean the engine bay
- Fit extra heat shielding
- Finally fit the ****** engine
It's been a long time coming but I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel. Here's how the engine sits currently (in our spare bedroom!) ...
Brute IX rods, Trend pins and King bearings
When I received the built block, I was told it had the illusive standard JE wrist pins which are said to be notoriously weak. This posed a question of whether to change them while the engine was out of the car. In the end I bit the bullet and did it. I bought a set of Trend H13 tool steel wrist pins while I was in the US and brought them back. Trend make wrist pins for some of the fastest drag and race cars and are one of the best in the business. As I was going to have to remove the rods and pistons, I thought this would be a good opportunity to swap the rods for something a little more future-proof. In this case, a set of Brute IX I beam rods from Arnold at PagParts with some King bearings. I'd originally ordered a set of the Wiseco Boostline rods but Wiseco actually recalled them due to issues with the threads in the rod bolts. It took them a year to revise the design and I gave up waiting. They've now released the updated rods but it's too late and the Brute's should be fine anyway. Here's a pic of them mid swap (my hands were too greasy to take more!). The pistons and pins were all weight matched within 0.15g. I could have got them to 0.1g but didn't fancy removing material from the pistons and didn't have a lot of time.
While I was there I fitted a Cometic MLS gasket too. The Elring gasket I was using would have probably been fine but I got the Cometic at a great price so it was rude not too. I went with a .040 or 1mm thickness which should raise CR a bit. I have 8.5:1 pistons which aren't ideal.
ECUMasters EMU Black
I'd always wanted to find a standalone solution that could work with the DQ500 but the standalone DSG controllers were either wildly overpriced or not for sale at all. I gave up and settled on living with the limitations of the ME7.5 ECU instead. Then a friend shot me through a link to a video on Facebook of a DSG retrofitted car running an ECUMasters ECU that was communicating directly with the DQ250. This was promising. I contacted the video author who incidentally has an R30T S3 himself and he was also planning a DQ500 conversion. He told me ECUMasters were adding support for the DQ500 ECU so I put an order in for one with the adapter loom and a couple of pressure sensors (fuel and oil, a 4 bar map sensor is built-in). I'm expecting it to arrive any day now!
Haltech/Racepak IQ3s Street Dash
Having had a Stack dash for a previous build when I lived in the UK, I'd always fancied another "race" dash. I did some research and there were a few options; Racepak, AEM, ECUMasters ADU, Race Technology, AiM. In the end I settled on the Haltech branded Racepak IQ3s mainly because it's available for very reasonable money locally, and it will communicate with the ECUMasters ECU without any additional expensive modules or cables that the other dashes seemed to require.
The first challenge after receiving the dash was working out how I was going to mount it into the standard gauge cluster. @IanPG gave me an old S3 cluster (thanks!) that I could hack up so I started by gutting the insides and eventually the outer clear plastic. The plan was to mount a piece of matte black acrylic over the top of the old dial housing and mount the Racepak to that.
I then took a photo of the cluster and converted it to vector format so that I could fiddle with it and print out templates...
The first template was made and then laid up to the cluster. Looked good...
So I cut it using a dremel and gingerly (acrylic is an **** to drill) drilled the three holes to mount the dash.
Then I glued the panel to the housing, removed the masking and ******, it's gloss. It turns out the listing didn't point that out until after I'd told them of the issue and they went and edited it. Cheeky ******.
I could have easily called it a day there and just said to myself it'll look fine with the piano black accents in the car but I knew it'd bug me. I also wasn't 100% set on having the dash poking out so much and there were a few issues with the original template. I looked around and found a nice billet flush mount bezel for the Racepak that would *just* fit into the housing. I got an order in for a new piece of acrylic and the nice flush mount bezel. To cut a long story short, after some tweaks to the template and some more cutting and drilling, the end result is much nicer...
Bosch Motorsports 74mm Throttle Body and Wiggins adapter
I originally had planned to run a Hemi 80mm TB but after speaking with a few folks, it seemed to be a bit oversized and can often end up in less than ideal throttle response. I decided to get the Bosch 74mm TB. It's rebuild-able too which the Hemi and R32 ones aren't should the need arise. I sold the Hemi and bought one of these locally. Since taking this picture, I've swapped the homemade paper gasket to the RS3 MLS gasket since it's the same PCD and bore.
Billet Bling
I'm ditching the AC and PS pumps (I'm going for an electric PS pump I got from @StaceyS3 ) and wanted a nicer bracket to mount the alternator. I got in contact with INA/Issam as they make a compact alternator kit using a small Denso alternator. Issam told me they also sell a kit to retain the standard alternator which I thought would actually be more useful as I'm going to be hanging a fair bit of power hungry parts (eletric PAS pump, 2 Walbro 450 pumps, the DSG etc) off it. Issam is like a pusher for billet parts. I ended up ordering the alternator mount, a billet oil filter housing, a billet lower timing belt cover and a stainless coolant pipe that runs across the front of the block. They all look great and fit well. I might have to run the original smaller 06a oil filter but that's not the end of the world. Since I needed a dipstick and tube, I also ordered one from WhanAB too. In raw aluminium of course.
INA Sump
I have the Forge sump currently which is more than adequate for my needs I think but as a local guy offered me an INA/Issam baffled sump for very reasonable money, it was rude not too. It's brand new and unused. For anyone who's not seen his sump, it's custom made from sheet aluminium and a laser cut flange for the sump. It has full baffling and "hugs" the oil pickup to prevent surge. It also adds 0.7L oil volume to the sump as an added bonus. I've not received it yet but here's a stock photo of it...
CSF Radiator
I had the CSF radiator on the back burner for a couple of years but hadn't seen many reviews of it in use. Then I noticed @Prawn bought one and seemed impressed so I finally pulled the trigger. Getting them in Australia isn't cheap but it seemed worthwhile if the quality is there (which it seems to be). This has arrived but it's still boxed up.
What's left?
- Fit the sump when it arrives
- Build the driveshafts from a mix of DQ500 and MQ500 inner joints with S3 outer joints
- Remove clutch pedal and MC
- Remove AC pipework
- Remove PS pipework
- Clean the engine bay
- Fit extra heat shielding
- Finally fit the ****** engine
It's been a long time coming but I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel. Here's how the engine sits currently (in our spare bedroom!) ...
Sam_
Down under
I got the sump fitted last week:
Off with the Forge sump...
Compared to the INA sump with much more extensive baffling and enclosing of the pump pickup...
The drain location is in a slightly different location so I had to make some modifications to the drain but this actually meant the hard line could be positioned a little further from the runners. The hard line section is also a little shorter as is the flex line which can only be a good thing...
Of course there was another issue. This sump has no level sensor provision as it's one of the earlier versions. Later ones have it. This wouldn't normally be an issue but it's also the location for the OEM temp sensor. I managed to find a Bosch sensor that measures both pressure and temp and is suitable for fluids. The only downer is that it's M10 x 1.0 so I had to get a tee to and an adapter to run it inline in the feed. Ideally I'd mount it remotely but this will be fine for now.
Also bought a few other parts:
- Adapter for M12x1.0 to 1/8 NPT to run a regular EGT sensor (which I still need to order)
- Bosch LSU 4.9 lambda sensor + plug for new loom
Off with the Forge sump...
Compared to the INA sump with much more extensive baffling and enclosing of the pump pickup...
The drain location is in a slightly different location so I had to make some modifications to the drain but this actually meant the hard line could be positioned a little further from the runners. The hard line section is also a little shorter as is the flex line which can only be a good thing...
Of course there was another issue. This sump has no level sensor provision as it's one of the earlier versions. Later ones have it. This wouldn't normally be an issue but it's also the location for the OEM temp sensor. I managed to find a Bosch sensor that measures both pressure and temp and is suitable for fluids. The only downer is that it's M10 x 1.0 so I had to get a tee to and an adapter to run it inline in the feed. Ideally I'd mount it remotely but this will be fine for now.
Also bought a few other parts:
- Adapter for M12x1.0 to 1/8 NPT to run a regular EGT sensor (which I still need to order)
- Bosch LSU 4.9 lambda sensor + plug for new loom
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2008
- Messages
- 24,836
- Reaction score
- 6,078
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Wibbleton
- Website
- www.tuffty.co.uk
Fastest bedroom in... the worrrrrrld!
Was the INA sump face flat? last one I saw (granted some time ago) wasn't...
<tuffty/>
Was the INA sump face flat? last one I saw (granted some time ago) wasn't...
<tuffty/>
Sam_
Down under
Haha I know it's actually close to going into the car now. Just a matter of time...
It did seem like one corner was ever so slightly warped but I think it was due to being roughly handled in the mail. I bent it back with limited force and it was spot on. It looks like a really nice bit of kit. Newer versions are better though. Larger drain plug, better return setup, some extra ports for catch can return (I'd not use that anyway), and support for the level/temp sensor.
it's actually close to going into the car now. Just a matter of time... It did seem like one corner was ever so slightly warped but I think it was due to being roughly handled in the mail. I bent it back with limited force and it was spot on. It looks like a really nice bit of kit. Newer versions are better though. Larger drain plug, better return setup, some extra ports for catch can return (I'd not use that anyway), and support for the level/temp sensor.
