My S3 hates me

s3mad_dude

Noggies ruuuule!
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Hi All,

Hope you’re all keeping safe during this awful pandemic. Hopefully we’ll slowly begin to return to normal as the summer approaches. Until then I thought I would check up on my neglected 8L S3.

She’s been tucked up in a garage for a little less than four months. Today I made sure the battery was fully charged and put it into the vehicle. The car started first time. Got to love that German engineering. But it’s not without a problem....with the car in neutral, if I push the gear stick left (as though I’m selecting first) but then don’t select the gear, the stick should spring back to neutral. Well, it no longer does that. Moving my stick left or right is very stiff. I have a hunch there is some light surface rust somewhere as it’s been sat for nearly four months.

Can somebody give me an idea of what to check first please. I seem to have a lot of time on my hands. Also the passenger side window went down whilst I was resetting the switch and now it won’t come back up again. Serves me right.....she’s getting her own back on me.

Just goes to show, keep on driving your cars every couple of weeks!
 
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Thanks for the window help, chaps! Most useful. I’ve heard about these clips before. Isn’t it funny how they can break without the car being used! Keeps me busy anyway.
Meanwhile if anyone has any stiff gearstick movement suggestions, I’d be most appreciative. The selection of gears is fine (the up/down movement), it’s just the springy left/right movement that’s gone super stiff.
 
U can get a refurb kit for the gear stick it comes with a new spring and clips. I'd to get one for my partner's car a couple months ago. We went to GSF to get it. Her problem was that the gear stick was really loss but might help urs aswell
 
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Ahh cool - yeah my springs must have corroded up over time and gone stiff. I’ll try some WD40 first and see if it helps, if not I’ll have a look at a refurb kit. Do you have a link or part number from GSF? Thanks.
 
Thanks for the window help, chaps! Most useful. I’ve heard about these clips before. Isn’t it funny how they can break without the car being used! Keeps me busy anyway.
Meanwhile if anyone has any stiff gearstick movement suggestions, I’d be most appreciative. The selection of gears is fine (the up/down movement), it’s just the springy left/right movement that’s gone super stiff.
Diagram maybe of some use.
d71bcddafb0346bcf8c64850b300e3d1.jpg


Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
 
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Just a small update - my window regulator clips were not broken, but the regulator is goosed. I’ve ordered a new one online and when it arrives I’ll fit it. Seems like a bit of a ballache but that guide you chaps directed me to is really helpful - thanks. Will let you know how I get on.
 
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Just thought I’d provide you all with an update if anyone is interested. I fixed the passenger electric window. I took the door card off, followed by the door subframe. I removed the motor and was in the process of removing the old regulator and I noticed the tension had reduced on one side of the pulleys since starting my work. I proceeded to move my sliders up and sure enough my regulator was working perfectly! They must have been a bit stiff or something. The plastic clips were in good condition with no signs of fatigue. My car is an October 2002 Reg model (shows as 03 on elsawin) so I think it has upgraded clips. They were orange in colour with green overclips. I greased up the runners and the cable on both sides that were visible and re-attached the glass. I tested the motor which was working fine also, so no reason why it wouldn’t work if I put everything back together. I had taken umpteen photos of the subframe removal because I had marked all of the various door wedges and brackets so I could refit it without alignment problems. I rebuilt everything and the window is now working perfectly. My new regulator is now surplus to requirements, I’ll add it to the many other spare parts I’ve accumulated over the years and stash it in the loft!

I just have to cure the stiff ‘side to side’ movement of the gear stick when in neutral and she’s good for an MOT check when all the garages reopen.

This week I plan to give the car a good wash and a de-tar and clay. I’ll remove the wheels and use a sealer on them, and then I will correct the paintwork with my dual-action polisher and give it a good old buff up and paint seal. The last time I did it was about 8 years ago and took me two days! So, now it’s well overdue a bit of TLC regarding the paint work. I’ll post some before/after pics if anyone is interested.

Here is a photo of the door subframe removed. I used the handy guide mentioned above - thanks so much for that! As I said earlier, I simply removed the glass, lubed up the runners and regulator cable, and tested it several times. Then put everything back together.

 
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The gear stick could also be an issue with the linkage on top of the gear box, pop the bonnet and give it a visual.. see if it moves freely
 
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Hi everyone, thought I’d update you all regarding the stiff side-to-side movement and lack of spring-back around the gear stick. As Essflee says the culprit was indeed the linkage. First I tried spraying all the pivots with some WD-40 but to no avail. In the end the solution was pretty straight forward. I spent longer adjusting the gear connector ball-joints (the bits in blue with springs on) when refitting!

In a nutshell the problem is caused by a lack of lubrication or corrosion forming inside the tube that the bracket (yellow outline) slides into, and sits on top of the gearbox. This bracket needs sliding out, cleaning, greasing, and then putting back on.

Here’s some simple instructions so you know what’s involved if you have to do it yourself one day:

1.Undo the 13mm nut coloured in the purple square.
2. Prise off the three circlips in yellow.
3. Remove the connecting gear rods (painted in blue) by compressing the springs with your hands and sliding the ball-joint off the end of the rod.
3. The bracket painted in red should simply slide out when pulled towards the direction of where the battery and airbox would normally be located. Mine was properly stiff and I had to persuade it with a gentle hammering.
4. Once it’s off clean the bracket and the plastic sheath attached. Also clean the inside of the metal tube with a pipe cleaner and put a dab of fresh grease inside.
5. Reassemble and job done. The springiness of my gearbox has returned and is perfect once again.



Now I just need to give it all a good clean down there and remove some of that grime.
 
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