My S3 Build Thread

[mechanic69]

Anyone got any tips for getting at the fuel return valve? Cant seem to see instructions for swapping it for the RS4 type? Do you need to get the inlet manifold off?

 

[Dan-Jnr]

I have read in various locations it can be done with the right tools without removing inlet manifold.

 

[S3Alex]

I have read in various locations it can be done with the right tools without removing inlet manifold.

Correct but you need a few bent spanners,and small fingers.

 

[Charlie23]

If you find out how to do it let me know and you can do mine to haha as its sat in the glove box at the moment.

 

[mechanic69]

Looks like this is the way
Remove the DV and rubber pipe connecting it to the throttle body pipe.
- Undo 2 x T30 torx screws securing the high pressure fuel lines ontop of the inlet manifold.
- Crack the sliver fuel line nut with a standard 14mm open ended spanner. Once it is cracked, you can very easily undo it with your fingers. Slide the nut back onto the fuel line and move that fuel line out of the way (you can move it about 2cm out the way). Note that i had also removed my HPFP at this time which gave the fuel lines even more movement.
- Slide a long 17mm socket over the stock fuel valve and crack it. Once cracked, you can unscrew it very easily either by hand of continue using the socket.
- Do the reverse of this to get the new RS4/HPFP Upgrade valve fitted and re-fit the fuel lines etc.

 

[mechanic69]

Reckon this is doable without the bent spanners, going to take the cai filter housing out too

 

[mechanic69]

New pressie turned up today, cheers to Mark and Nige at BCS.



Anyone know if I need gaskets for the bolted joints between the turbo / downpipe and the downpipe / CAT, they are the bolted joints? guess the other ones are exhaust sealant???

Cant wait to get it on and re-map.

 

[347]

yes I was thinking the same , mine turned up last tuesday .
I have chickened out and is booked into AmD next week for fitting lol.

 

[Marshy]

The original metal turbo gasket can be reused to fit your new downpipe.
If there's any gasket required to mate the bcs pipes together then Nige will have supplied them.
One word for you guys
ENJOY

 

[mechanic69]

The original metal turbo gasket can be reused to fit your new downpipe.
If there's any gasket required to mate the bcs pipes together then Nige will have supplied them.
One word for you guys
ENJOY

OK reuse the turbo gasket but no gasket for dp to cat just bolts, contacted BCS to see what to do.

 

[Marshy]

Yeah just reuse the downpipe gasket.
Is there definitely no gasket supplied with the bolts?

 

[mechanic69]

Yeah just reuse the downpipe gasket.
Is there definitely no gasket supplied with the bolts?

no mate just bolts in holes and metal 2 metal. Two clamps in separate wrap, can't see gasket anywhere.

 

[Marshy]

I'd check with Nige but I'd probably use a little silicone sealant.

 

[mechanic69]

I'd check with Nige but I'd probably use a little silicone sealant.

I've asked the question, not much flange for a gasket anyways. did you get one?

 

[Marshy]

Bcs fitted my system so don't know mate.

 

[RedDejavu]

no need for gaskets buddy all is perfectly align with their systems and only need silicone sealant.

 

[mechanic69]

no need for gaskets buddy all is perfectly align with their systems and only need silicone sealant.

The high temp stuff?? Heard it may knacker the O2 sensor??

 

[mechanic69]

Nige from BCS recommends silicon sealant, sorted.

 

[mechanic69]

Had a look at fitting the exhaust and bottled it, mate offered his ramp so might take that option tomorrow. Instead fitted the RS4 fuel return valve and what a XXXXer of a job that is, need the hands of a baby. Did it without bent spanners chuffed.

Heres how:
Remove the DV and rubber pipe connecting it to the throttle bodypipe.
- Undo 2 x T30 torxscrews securing the high pressure fuel lines ontop of the inlet manifold.
- Crack the sliver fuel line nut with a standard 14mm open ended spanner. Once it is cracked, you can very easily undo it with your fingers. Slide the nut back onto the fuel line and move that fuel line out of the way (you can move it about 2cm out the way). Note that i had also removed the DV bracket.
- Slide a long 17mm socket over the stock fuel valve and crack it. Once cracked, you can unscrew it very easily either by hand of continue using the socket.
- Do the reverse of this with a ton of patience!!!! to get the new RS4/HPFP Upgrade valve fitted and re-fit the fuel lines etc.

See the brass valve (little ******) nearly dropped it down the engine.

 

[Marshy]

Does the car drive any different with it fitted?

 

[mechanic69]

Still on stage 1 map so doubt I'll notice the difference, just getting ready for 2+ when I fit the exhaust, eliminate the flat spot people talk about. only 50 quid and some bruised knuckles!!

 

[RedDejavu]

you have to fit mine now please

 

[mechanic69]

Sorry Never doing it again unless you got beadle hands

 

[mechanic69]

At the garage ready to fit and remap hope it goes ok

 

[Dean_T]

If you went powervalve you will love the exhaust!

Let us know what you think of it fella.

 

[mechanic69]

Swapped the exhaust downpipe and CAT today at my mates lockup

Couple of mediocre runabouts!!



Nice bit of quality stainless, cheers Nige.



Up on ramp to get it sorted would have been a ****** on axle stands.



Used this method which worked:
-Remove the intake
-Undo the top lambda sensor
-Undo the 3 accessible turbo/downpipe flange nuts from above in the engine bay
-Undo 2nd lambda from underneath
-Undo exhaust centre section from OE downpipe and rear section and remove
-Undo 3 front propshaft bolts
-Undo 2 prop shaft centre brace bolts
-Slide propshaft over to the drivers side of the car
-Undo remaining downpipe/turbo flange nut
-Wrestle the standard downpipe out of the space left after moving the prop to the side

Unfortunately couldn't remap as the Bluefin download didn't work, but the performance is improved just with the free flow the new pipe gives you, feels quicker to rev and just wants to go. The sound is awesome too even without the power valve back box on. Pops and farts like a good un. Bring on the remap to release those horses.

 

[mechanic69]

Quick vid from iPhone

 

[Marshy]

Sounds good mate
That's pretty much how I done mine although I managed mine on axle stands.
Never again

 

[mechanic69]

You need a medal mate hard enough of a lift

 

[mechanic69]

Probably worth noting the front exhaust mount is sided so make sure you remember which way its fitted or the pipe doesn't clear the prop

 

[Marshy]

A very nice well made bit of kit.
Counting down until the powervalve gets ordered?
You've already done the hard bit

 

[mechanic69]

Me too the backs a doddle

 

[347]

is the engine light on since fitting the down pipe ?

 

[Marshy]

When I fitted my downpipe it took about 100 miles before the light came on. (Running stage 1 at the time)
My powervalve said real Jekyll and Hyde oem quiet then rosary the racing car, it's great.

 

[mechanic69]

No lights yet

 

[mechanic69]

Done 30 miles on it, wouldn't expect a light on if the map is right. Was a bit worried vid there's two lambda sensors and the car had a hissy fit because it was on the lift

 

[Dean_T]

The CEL light will come on at some point until you go stage 2/2+ and then it will be mapped out.

 

[mechanic69]

Cool

 

[mechanic69]

Waiting for bluefin to download map

 

[mechanic69]

Waiting for bluefin to download map

Cleared all codes tonight, there were a couple of faults in the engine module. Installed Bluefin Stage 3 (Their 2+), they quote 337bhp and 443Nm



Quick test drive after clearing codes and does it shift, effortless. Nice and smooth with no flat spots. The bonnet rises the rear hankers down and of you go. The noise with just the downpipe is awesome don't know if I even need the rear section to add to it!!!

Brakes or intercooler next mmmmm............