My new Haldex problem + code after fixing last one! (2248 N373)

Jps3290

Registered User
2 - 3 months ago I fixed my previous Haldex issue as the pump had gone due to being clogged up and had burned itself out on my 2010 A3 Quattro with Gen 4.

Now another error has popped up making the 4wd system intermittently working and throwing up a 2248 Valve for controlling clutch operating angle N373 error.

Bit of digging and most likely going to be that the haldex controller is corroded however ive took it off and sealant looks in good condition except of a couple of very tiny areas that have lifted...maybe enough to allow corrosion in.

Spoke to a very helpful guy on http://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/ who I have ordered a filter kit and more oil from after being told by Audi their is no such thing as a filter on the system for the Gen 4. It's possibly the filter is blocked causing an issue and at only £52 for a new one and £1050 for a new Gen 4 controller its work a shot!! Lad from the above site actually strips, cleans and repairs broked haldex Controllers and has advised how to take it apart while I have it off to fit the filter and if its corroded inside I'll send it off for repaid which he charges a very reasonable price for!!!

Anyone else had this issue?

Its not the oil - this was changed less than 2 k ago so was the pre charge pump. Pump is still working as i have tested it with VCDS. If I run a manual test of the haldex clutch I can hear it working and it also clears the error for a while then comes back after maybe 20 or 30 miles, if i just clear the error just using VCDS and not running a manual test it comes back immediately. Bit strange.

Also notice running VCDS logs on the haldex system the pump doesnt get about an 84% load which is probably due to a clogged filter Audi say doesn't need changing.

For anyone with the same issues i'll be hopefully sorting this out next thursday/friday when I have the parts and Im off work.
 

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JayHa11

Registered User
Sorry to hear of your troubles dude but a very informative post! Ive been experiencing some problems with my Haldex also and was getting a fault code: 00448 – Haldex Clutch Pump (V181) – 011 – Open Circuit – Intermittent

Symptoms of this were sporadic 4 wheel drive and alot of traction control. As you stated Audi swore blind there was no filter but I have just ordered a gen 4 pre-charge pump and filter for £220 delivered via a seller on ebay.

I will be getting these fitted later this week and hopefully that will cure the issues I am experiencing. Hope the filter sorts your issues out too dude!
 

Jps3290

Registered User
Hi. Yes that fault code you have will definitely be the pump as that's what I had few months back. Like you say I changed oil before when changing pump and because audi say their was no filter I'm now spending more money on oil that's probably done less that 2k miles as I'm not reusing it incase it's contaminated by the dirty filter.

Progress though...I removed haldex controller and carefully took it apart. Their was a tiny bit of corrosion inside on some of the transistors and capacitors. Using contact cleaner and tooth brush I cleaned the whole board and resealed using polyurethane and let dry in the house over night. Stuck it back on car today and done 25 miles thoroughly testing the haldex and 4wd hasn't failed yet and no error code.

Fingers crossed that's resolved it but I'm still changing filter on Thursday. I'll try to upload phone of the corrosion but it's very hard to see, left hand side. Another photo of it resealed.
 

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drunknspikes3

Member
VCDS Map User
My haldex keeps throwing up errors the clutch intermittent etc I had the oil and filter done a couple of months ago so was thinking about jacking car up at a slant so no oil leaks out then remove the controller to see how bad the corrosion is do you think if I jack it up in the way I said I'd get away with not losing much oil ?
 

Jps3290

Registered User
You can remove the controller without losing any oil at all. Leave the control valve in place as that forms the seal. To be fair you would do well if it came.out by hand due to the pressure. Remove 2 bolts and unplug both cables and it pulls off. Just don't start car up with it off as u risk the valve blowing out.
 

drunknspikes3

Member
VCDS Map User
You can remove the controller without losing any oil at all. Leave the control valve in place as that forms the seal. To be fair you would do well if it came.out by hand due to the pressure. Remove 2 bolts and unplug both cables and it pulls off. Just don't start car up with it off as u risk the valve blowing out.
Awesome thanx I was a bit gutted I was gonna lose oil as I paid for it to be services and don't want to pay for it again :)
 

Jps3290

Registered User
No bother. I'm less lucky as I changed my oil then 1 week later pump went so had to by more oil then 2 or 3 months later this issue. I'm changing filter and oil and if error comes on again after that I'll have to send controller off for testing and repair.

Annoyingly i have extended warranty that covered the pump being replaced but they won't cover haldex ecu. Only the main ecu and abs ecu.
 

drunknspikes3

Member
VCDS Map User
No bother. I'm less lucky as I changed my oil then 1 week later pump went so had to by more oil then 2 or 3 months later this issue. I'm changing filter and oil and if error comes on again after that I'll have to send controller off for testing and repair.

Annoyingly i have extended warranty that covered the pump being replaced but they won't cover haldex ecu. Only the main ecu and abs ecu.
Damn not good audis are awesome cars until something goes wrong then it ends up being very expensive hope you sort it out with not much more more lost
 

Jps3290

Registered User
Well 3 days on and best part of 120 miles and haldex still working fine after controller was took apart and cleaned. Filters arrived so quick change of that and fresh oil and hopefully end of issue for now.
 

drunknspikes3

Member
VCDS Map User
God news not been able to do mine yet waiting for contact cleaner to come and now the weather has stopped me from doing it glad you fixed it hopefully won't cost you any more money
 

Jps3290

Registered User
I'm just on removing filter and it's being a complete pain in the ***. Got the bolts out but it's jammed solid.
 

drunknspikes3

Member
VCDS Map User
Sorry can't help I took mine to a garage to get done after having issues with changing the rear wheel bearing wasn't going to try it myself lol
 

Jps3290

Registered User
I found an easy way. Before dropping oil I started car for a couple of seconds. Pressure of haldex pump charging the system was enough to pop it out slightly and then I could get hold of it and work it out. Filter is quite dirty and clogged up.
 

drunknspikes3

Member
VCDS Map User
Cool might do it myself next time save some cash when you took the control moduL off what size star bit did you use ?
 

JayHa11

Registered User
Glad its working ok dude. My genuine filter and pump kit turned up yesterday and will be fitted tomorrow. Fingers crossed that's my Haldex issues resolved then also!
 

Jps3290

Registered User
Jesus. Finally finished. Its been snowing the last 3 hours, windy as hell and ****** freezing. Had to keep coming to defrost my fingers. New filter was a ****** to get back in but its all back together and oil topped up. Good for another 40k i hope and next time I will time the filter and oil change for the middle of summer!!
 

JayHa11

Registered User
Picked the S3 up after having the new pump and filter fitted today. Car is reborn again pulling off like a rocket!
 

hollows wife

Registered User
Hi. Yes that fault code you have will definitely be the pump as that's what I had few months back. Like you say I changed oil before when changing pump and because audi say their was no filter I'm now spending more money on oil that's probably done less that 2k miles as I'm not reusing it incase it's contaminated by the dirty filter.

Progress though...I removed haldex controller and carefully took it apart. Their was a tiny bit of corrosion inside on some of the transistors and capacitors. Using contact cleaner and tooth brush I cleaned the whole board and resealed using polyurethane and let dry in the house over night. Stuck it back on car today and done 25 miles thoroughly testing the haldex and 4wd hasn't failed yet and no error code.

Fingers crossed that's resolved it but I'm still changing filter on Thursday. I'll try to upload phone of the corrosion but it's very hard to see, left hand side. Another photo of it resealed.

glad someone on here has the brains to try and repair something themselves instead of just sending it in for repair , its probably going to be fine now and most likely saved you hundreds of ££ for someone to do the exact same as you did ,or even say its not repairable and charge you extra for a second hand unit
 

drunknspikes3

Member
VCDS Map User
glad someone on here has the brains to try and repair something themselves instead of just sending it in for repair , its probably going to be fine now and most likely saved you hundreds of ££ for someone to do the exact same as you did ,or even say its not repairable and charge you extra for a second hand unit
Yeah it's better then paying £117 I'd rather pay £20 and try and fix it myself
 

drunknspikes3

Member
VCDS Map User
Just another quick question how to you get the wire clips off the controller do I just put a screwdriver in the slot push down on it and pull the clips ? Sorry if it sounds a stupid question just don't want to damage anything
 

Jps3290

Registered User
Sorry been away for the weekend but glad you sorted it.

Nearly 300 mile round trip and no errors when I've checked with carista. I'm happy it seems fixed now lol
 

drunknspikes3

Member
VCDS Map User
opened up my haldex to a beach worth of sand and it looks to have corroded a resistor ive cleaned it up the best i can with contact cleaner and will probably connect it back up tomorrow and see if im lucky and the resistor isnt dead and i got away with out sending it somewhere for the resistor to be changed i think audi really should have a recall or free service for the haldex systems as they are really pooly sealed
 

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Jps3290

Registered User
Yours looks worse than mine did inside. You can give it a good scrub with a tooth brush to get into all the little nitty bits. Fingers crossed for ya.

I know the link I posted about the lad can repair some parts of the board and he can actually test it while off the car. He's a really genuine and helpful guy who I spoke to on phone and actually did himself out of money telling me what to do. If its Still not.working he can test it for about £37.5 and advise if he can fix it and if so you just pay the extra to top up to the £117 price.
 

drunknspikes3

Member
VCDS Map User
Yours looks worse than mine did inside. You can give it a good scrub with a tooth brush to get into all the little nitty bits. Fingers crossed for ya.

I know the link I posted about the lad can repair some parts of the board and he can actually test it while off the car. He's a really genuine and helpful guy who I spoke to on phone and actually did himself out of money telling me what to do. If its Still not.working he can test it for about £37.5 and advise if he can fix it and if so you just pay the extra to top up to the £117 price.
yeah i think he does the work under the name auto fault finder ill seewhat happens tomorrow
 

drunknspikes3

Member
VCDS Map User
Put all back together (just need to seal the box again ) took it down the road to reset everything as disconnected the battery and it seems to be working once it's resealed I'll give it a proper test so glad it's not broke :)
 

ab1702

Registered User
I've just bought a Quattro 59 reg so it has the same haldex and after reading this thread I'm now wanting to change the fluid and filter and check out the controller to see if there's any corrosion.
I just wondered if you had any advice on changing the oil etc so basically how high uonfod you need the car to do it and how did you get the oil back in? Does it pour in or do you pump it in? Any advice would be helpful asnim wanting to do it myself rather than take it to the garage as most garages I've asked about it seem to have little knowledge about the haldex
 

Jps3290

Registered User
To drop the oil I just used a trolley jack and stand, removed bolts for haldex oil and diff oil ( I did both at same time ) and then lowered car back down to let it drain completely for 5 mins. I did this after using the car so the oil was warm and flows better to get it out. Before you drop oil though remove cover off filter housing and see if filter comes out easy. It most likely won't. So with cover off start the car for 1 to 2 seconds and knock it off. It should push the filter out enough to then grab and twist it out once u drop the oil.

To refill I used a cheap hand pump off eBay. Haldex takes 850 ml so you need to pretty much be getting the full container in. Put your filter back in before refilling with oil. Again i refilled with no problems just jacked up on a trolley jack with an axle stand for safety.
 

ab1702

Registered User
To drop the oil I just used a trolley jack and stand, removed bolts for haldex oil and diff oil ( I did both at same time ) and then lowered car back down to let it drain completely for 5 mins. I did this after using the car so the oil was warm and flows better to get it out. Before you drop oil though remove cover off filter housing and see if filter comes out easy. It most likely won't. So with cover off start the car for 1 to 2 seconds and knock it off. It should push the filter out enough to then grab and twist it out once u drop the oil.

To refill I used a cheap hand pump off eBay. Haldex takes 850 ml so you need to pretty much be getting the full container in. Put your filter back in before refilling with oil. Again i refilled with no problems just jacked up on a trolley jack with an axle stand for safety.

Cheers mate exactly what I wanted to know. Thanks
 
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