My minor modding thread

[<tuffty/>]

Pigtail just refers to them being prewired... the connectors you want are EV1... up to you if you want to make them up yourself or use pre wired (pigtail) ones... I used prewired to minimise the risk of the connector crimp failing (I don't have the correct crimp set for them) and soldering the tails is just easier from a fitting perspective

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

<tuffty/>

 

[Tj 0785]

You getting the turbo started?

 

[Bluepower]

View attachment 215710



<tuffty/>

So running the turbo setup next week?

 

[S3AMJ]

Yes PT! Looking forward to this as is everyone else. Have you given yourself a deadline to meet? Can’t be to fair off now surely


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[<tuffty/>]

To be honest it was a bit out of the blue... Bill, ALex and I were chatting about it the other day and I was planning to make a tubular manifold....

...but... given the current climate and realistically my goals with the car at this time it made more sense to get her up and running on the cast mani as I had originally intended...

...then I get sent some pics from Alex of the mani being welded up!...

I don't believe its finished yet (WG adaptor needs sorting next) but its certainly got me motivated to crack on with the rest of the car which of course is still on hold partially due to the current lockdown but also because I haven't been in a position to help Bill out at the weekends for the last 12 months and I am not about to extract the wee by rocking up and working on my own car over helping him out at this time...

Once we know where we stand lockdown wise then hopefully I can start doing my weekend thing at his (which I sorely miss) and the car can fitted in around that..

The rest of the work should be relatively straightforward...

Fit shells and ARP's... this is 'simply' a case of dropping the sump on a ramp and sorting... while the sumps off then I can get the oil drain boss welded on... put back together and the engine is essentially done..

Fitting the turbo, mani, wastegate is easy enough too... oil lines will need to be sorted but again, bread and butter stuff (not mine or the B5 teams first rodeo )

Downpipe and wastegate pipe are a bit of an unknown at this time... looks tight but I made a 3.5" DP for a K04 so this should be a walk in the park lol

Charge pipework and intake again all look to be pretty straightforward... I have ideas that might require some extra fab work but its all part of the plan..

Biggest headache and as yet has no solution finalised... coolant lines or more where to pick them up from... I have a few ideas and will be re-using my old after run pump too (the 3.2VR already has an after run pump btw... this will be specifically to circulate coolant around the turbo)

Sounds like a lot now its listed lol... but I have most of the bits to do it... just need to be able to be iin a position to crack on which is currently the trickiest bit

Soon though...

<tuffty/>

 

[Rainbird]

Wondered if that was your manifold being melted together, pleased to see it is

 

[S3AMJ]

Sounds like you’ve got a solid plan in place though mate my gut feeling is lockdown will be relaxed around mid march.

You generally make quick work of anything so shouldn’t take you long once your stuck into it.

Bill and Alex are so busy at the moment, which is fantastic for them in today’s climate. Who would have thought a car tuning company has gone from strength to strength. Also the finance option available now has made things even better!

With the turbo coolant lines could you tap off any hardpipes on the VR engine or is it just the 1.8t that has those?


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[<tuffty/>]

1.8t comes out the bottom of the block and back to the top of the rad... need to dig out some flow diagrams of the VR engine and check how it works... there are a few options... the DSG flow path being one but then I don't want to use that in case I decide to go DSG as the (mostly) final big mod to the car

Have to see how it goes....

<tuffty/>

 

[S3AMJ]

Bit of forward thinking required. Be a case of fabricating something somewhere I’m sure looking forward to this. Glad it’s on the go again mate


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[desertstorm]

Ooh DSG gearbox

https://www.picuki.com/media/2146393008157668158

Coolant hose connection diagram
1 - Radiator
q Removing and installing → Chapter
q After replacing, fill with new coolant
2 - Non-return valve
3 - Continued circulation coolant pump -V51-
q Removing and installing → Chapter
4 - Oil cooler
q After replacing, fill with new coolant
5 - Coolant pump
q Removing and installing → Chapter
6 - Cylinder head/cylinder block
q After replacing, fill with new coolant
7 - Expansion tank
8 - Filler cap for expansion tank
q With pressure relief valve
q Testing pressure relief valve → Anchor
9 - Throttle valve module -J338-
10 - Heat exchanger
q After replacing, fill with new coolant
11 - Thermostat
q Removing and installing → Chapter
q Checking → Anchor
12 - Non-return valve
q Only on vehicles with direct shift gearbox
13 - Gearbox oil cooler
q Only on vehicles with direct shift gearbox
q If renewed, refill system with fresh coolant
14 - Auxiliary radiator
q Only on vehicles with direct shift gearbox
q After replacing, fill with new coolant

 

[Brad1011]

Ooh DSG gearbox

https://www.picuki.com/media/2146393008157668158
View attachment 215744
Coolant hose connection diagram
1 - Radiator
q Removing and installing → Chapter
q After replacing, fill with new coolant
2 - Non-return valve
3 - Continued circulation coolant pump -V51-
q Removing and installing → Chapter
4 - Oil cooler
q After replacing, fill with new coolant
5 - Coolant pump
q Removing and installing → Chapter
6 - Cylinder head/cylinder block
q After replacing, fill with new coolant
7 - Expansion tank
8 - Filler cap for expansion tank
q With pressure relief valve
q Testing pressure relief valve → Anchor
9 - Throttle valve module -J338-
10 - Heat exchanger
q After replacing, fill with new coolant
11 - Thermostat
q Removing and installing → Chapter
q Checking → Anchor
12 - Non-return valve
q Only on vehicles with direct shift gearbox
13 - Gearbox oil cooler
q Only on vehicles with direct shift gearbox
q If renewed, refill system with fresh coolant
14 - Auxiliary radiator
q Only on vehicles with direct shift gearbox
q After replacing, fill with new coolant

Wow you can see when it throws them back in the seat how much of a tool that is


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[<tuffty/>]

A mere 535hp and a screamer... shame... wonder what boost he is running for that power... seeing as I will be using the same turbo...

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

Here is the 1.8t coolant diagram for reference...

As I thought the output of the after run pump just goes back into the top of the rad... given whats available on the VR engine its looking like I will be looking to take the feed from the top of the head which looks like its circulation isn't dependant on the stat being open... will have a look at properly to double check but as long as its circulating around the block from cold then that should do it

Doesn't seem to be much info on how others have done it (shocking!) so will up my research and see if I can find anything at all... will ask Brian too I think as he has worked on a couple of VRT's now

<tuffty/>

 

[desertstorm]

If you are thinking of fitting a DSG box they seem to do the cooling differently on more modern cars. On the 2012 TTS I got my box from, the DSG cooler is connected in parallel with the heater core. There is an 80 degree C in line thermostat that stops coolant flow unless the gearbox is upto temp. Allows quicker warm up of the engine.These were the hoses I got from that car and hopefully I will be able to plumb them straight into my car with a few mods.

On the MK6 Golf R, S3 they have an optional extra cooler rad like the 3.2 V6 TT . On the MK7 R ,S3,TTS they fitted 2 extra rads, one an extra coolant rad and the other coolant exiting the engine goes through one of the rad before going to the DSG and then returning to the engine.
On my TT I am happy the CSF main rad keeps engine temperatures under control but to help with DSG cooling I have bought one of the OE smaller rads which I will run coolant through and return to the Gearbox cooler. Oil temps in the DSG climb pretty quickly especially if there is any kind of slip. That's why they don't like to do do too many launches .
https://csfrace.com/csf-cooling-releases-the-missing-link-for-the-mqb-platform/

 

[<tuffty/>]

My engine was from a TT with a DQ250 box so had most of the hoses already attached.. (and waht was left of the DQ250)... I have simplified it as I have a manual but will reintroduce the relevant pipework should I decide to go dsg but tbh that's on the nice to have list currently as I need some body work done first..

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

Slowly making some progress on the car in general as tbh the motivation has been a bit lacking....

First up was to replace the tyres... the NS2r's have seen better days from lack of use.... plenty of tread left but cracks starting to appear in the grooves and was an advisory from my MOT guy... I actually fancied a change as while the NS2r's are good, they are very situational... in so much that as long as the weather is warm and dry they work really well... all other times they are a bit meh... particularly for me on colder days as they take forever to warm up driving normally and given the state of the roads, traffic, a55hats with on board cameras I decided I needed a tyre that was more a decent all rounder...

So I bought PS4's... I didn't go 'S' as they were only on 235/40/18 and I wasn't sure I wouldn't get rubbage but there was a cash back deal on them from Michelin so cost me 79 quid a corner for 225/40/18's and they feel great tbh... a little obviously softer on the side wall than the NS2r's but still turn in nicely, grip exceptionally well and feel decent ride wise...

The A2 doing what she does best...

Next on the list was the aircon... as you may recall I had an incident where the fans tried to cut through the aircon hose (my fault for not checking the clearance) and what with winter then lockdown(s) I simply haven't gotten around to sorting it... so managed to bag a set of hoses for 25 quid on eBay

...and made a start on trying to access the current pipework...

Thankfully the VR6 affords a shed load of room behind it which makes working on stuff easier and makes fitting a turbo much less of a chore than a 20v (waits for all the 'what are you waiting for then' comments )

Weather is really nice but its far too hot out the front at the moment to carry on so split the replacement pipework as I am only going to swap out the pipe I need (replacement is from an A3 so should fit fine but this one has a different pressure sensor) so split the pipes and cleaned it up a bit...

I have a replacement aircon pump to go on too as mine seems to have finally given up on life...

Was nice to actually do a bit of work on the old girl again... although far too hot for me... I am not a massive fan of the heat tbh...

I have a VVT version of my map in now too... this seems to have perked up the low/mid range power quite a bit... feels much snappier once you stab the pedal but obvs top end is still on the lethargic side due to the low comp and breather through a FMIC lol..

Will try and get the aircon sorted as soon as I can, I also have the PAS pipes from a 4-mo to put on as the 20v pipe off the pump hangs dangerously low... this will be coupled with a PAS cooler too as the 4-mo pipe work is very 'direct'... the turbo cars tended to get the extended pipework to act as a cooler due to the proximity of the very much hotter things to the steering rack

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

Today was quite a bit cooler than yesterday so decided to get out of my man cave and brave the great outdoors once more..

The joy of the VR engine is that you have loads of room behind it to do 'stuff' and working on the front just requires the front clip to be removed... no need to drain down the rad etc... (you can of course still do this on a 20v but good luck with the rear access )

With the clip off you can get around the front a bit more easily... as my aircon was empty anyway I also undid the pipe to the dryer but you can move around in there easily enough with the rad pack as is...

Was thinking I needed to remove the engine mount but thankfully I didn't have to... did need to move a few other things out the way like the expansion bottle and fuel lines ...

After a bit of wrestling and twisting the pipework about like one of those games that you have to move a hoop over a bendy bit of wire without setting off the buzzer it was out (just the larger pipe, I left the smaller pipe in place as there was no need to change that..)

Next task was to remove the AC pump to swap out with my spare... wanted to be sure that I didn't have any problems with it being used with no gas for so long...

I ended up having to drop the engine off the mount to be able to get a socket onto the top bolt holding the pump on... then a lot of wiggling to get it off the mount...

On the left is my OG S3 pump that I took off... the replacement on the right is the one that came with the VR engine so hopefully still works...

Don't forget to open the gap of the mounts a little to make it easier to slide on... the rear threaded bits are a press fit so I used an 18mm 1/2 socket and a suitable bolt to move the threaded insert back enough to allow the pump to fit easily... they will get pulled back in when you tighten the mounting bolts on fitting

All hooked up and mostly together...

Decided to sort the yellowing of the headlights while the bumper was off... poor old girl has barely been driven in the past 18 months so is looking a little disheveled...

Single pass with some medium cutting compound and the DA was enough to bring them back up nicely so left it at that for now...

All back together and runs without any leaks (not that it should as I didn't undo anything but you never know what you may have disturbed)

Last things I need to do are order up some replacement o-rings for where the pipework connects to the bulkhead... old ones were past their prime really so worth changing... then the re-gas... hopefully it will all work as it should again in time for summer (and obviously the turbo fitting )

<tuffty/>

 

[Welly]

So then Mr T, when are we expecting a finished product? Because the want for a passenger ride is very strong indeed....

 

[<tuffty/>]

So then Mr T, when are we expecting a finished product? Because the want for a passenger ride is very strong indeed....

Thats a very good question... now that lock down restrictions have eased I am hoping I can get back on it fairly soon...

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

Guess who's back.... back again... <tuffty/>'s back... tell a friend...

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

First task back at the Badger cave was to make a start on a job I have wanted to do for almost as long as I have known Bill... rewire the Badger Wagon!!!

Poor old BadgeWadge has been subjected to all sorts of changes and additional wiring over the years so it was time to finally address them all

I was like a pig in p00p!!!... (yes... sadly I quite enjoy electrics )

Anyhoo... in other news... this happened today...

....and finally she blows cold!!!... only taken 18 months or so to sort out

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

grabbed a bit of time this afternoon (in between watching Prawn racing) and dug out a spare transfer box I had to clean it up...

This is not a normal 02M transfer box... this came with the DSG box that was attached to the VR

...sadly and most likely for the best the DSG box is a non runner with no mechatronic unit attached but I am on the look out for a more suitable unit... most likely a DQ 250 from a late A3 3.2 8P as this will bolt straight on, is more readily available and also quite a lot cheaper than a DQ500 (which is like hens teeth to find anyway)

Little way off getting that sorted but I am slowly gathering the parts for now....

Anyhoo... the other thing I managed to finally sort out was the modded self dimming mirror... my old mirror had the dye shizz going wonky as they do.... so based off the discussion on this thread.. (https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/auto-dimming-rear-view-mirrors.420429/)

...I picked up a Hyundai Tucson mirror for the princely sum of £19

As you can see the mounts are quite different with the Tucson 'ball' being very much larger (fnarr)... so I cut it off!... and removed the Audi one too... some minor modding later...

Used a tweaked nut sert for mine but any suitable metal tube will do here

I used epoxy to stick it all together and give me something to reshape nicely (ish)

Bit of trimming and paint later...

Was an absolute a55 to refit though.... but managed it using a trim tool and my lockdown ballast...

Looking good for the money...

Just need to sort the wiring out and then fit it

...which has reminded me... I still have some electric mirrors to fit... oh and a turbo...

<tuffty/>

 

[S3AMJ]

I do like a good old retro fit, nice work there mate


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[<tuffty/>]

With the ongoing easing of lockdown I have been able to get out and about more in the car which has been damn nice tbh...

...however... the old girls age and lack of use really has started to become apparent... I now have the dreaded low speed binding when turning... pulled the haldex fuse and shock horror it went away... bad times

Thankfully I have been stocking up!!

The top controller was one I bought for a song off a late Mk1 TT with pretty low miles... this is the newer metal gasket type fitment but has a damaged plug... thankfully most VAG connectors have the part number on (bless their germanic ways) which was 1J0973814... quick search on ebay netted me a complete new plug with terminals for less than a fiver... result

The lower controller was one I got off my replacement diff...

This still needs to be fitted at some point... not that I think it needs it but I did spend a rather silly amount of money on new seals etc for it and was low mileage with decent haldex clutch plates so given mine has a fair few miles on it... a lot of dyno time and has had its fair share of power then kinda makes sense to replace it all but tbh I will probably drop the whole rear end and do a full refurb including powder coating everything and replacing bearings and brake lines...

Turbo first though

<tuffty/>

 

[s3mad_dude]

I too have a spare diff, spare Haldex controller and spare clutch pump. Replacing the controller achieved nothing so assume mine is ok. I’ll be doing the pump in a couple of weeks or so, and if that fails I guess I’m looking at fitting the replacement diff.....we’ll see.

Good luck with the refurb.

 

[Brad1011]

I have this turning judder at slow speeds I’ve done a haldex service which got rid of it for a while but it’s came back, what actually causes that ?


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[<tuffty/>]

I have this turning judder at slow speeds I’ve done a haldex service which got rid of it for a while but it’s came back, what actually causes that ?


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Pretty sure its the stepper motor in the haldex controller itself... the whole system is relatively simple... the controller just controls a stepper motor which in turn moves a valve.... the valve controls the flow of hydraulic oil to the haldex rotating assembly that then generates the pressure to clamp the clutch pack giving drive from the prop to the rear diff...

I suspect the stepper motor is faulty causing the valve to be in the wrong position and therefore 'actuating' the clutch pack when it shouldn't... generally speaking changing the controller 'fixes' the issue but tbh its only a matter of time before it happens again....

I intend to strip and test the one I remove (assuming fitting a replacement fixes the issue) and see if there is anyway to replace the stepper motor and/or 'serive' the controller to make it a working item again

<tuffty/>

 

[Brad1011]

Seems like everyone has a problem with it im 50/50 wether to just remove it? wonder how much they weigh? Prawn seems to get on alright without it that being said my bro in laws wheel spins at any opportunity but he’s got naff tyres so doesn’t really say much tbh, would be interesting to see especially with independent suspension.


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[<tuffty/>]

I am going to look into the possibility of using a gen2 or newer controller with suitable mods... On the face of it the gen2 controller works in much the same way by moving a valve about and the 8L should be able to talk to it...

Will see how it goes as tbh I don't want to be at the mercy of a part I can't buy new anymore and is doomed to fail at some point

<tuffty/>

 

[S3AMJ]

I’d be interested on how you get on with the Gen2 haldex, undoubtedly I’ll have to change mine at some point. I did find a manual haldex valve assembly which does away with the controller I believe.


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[<tuffty/>]

I painted a thing

I may have also ordered up some other 'things' which I will tease once they all arrive...

<tuffty/>

 

[S3AMJ]

Looks very prettyful PT, looking forward to seeing what other goodies are arriving!


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[<tuffty/>]

So a little teaser as promised of 'things to come'....

...ok well... I am a little way off this as yet and the plan is still to get the turbo on first then tune on the manual box but... as things that I need for a DSG conversion pop up on eBay at the right price I am grabbing them...

I still need to find a box and I have specific requirements for that so holding out for the right one at the right money... no rush for that (although if one comes up and it is actually 'the right one' then I will of course go for it lol)

I have gone for an 8P selector mech... its not the prettiest one they do but looks like its one that would fit with the minimum of fuss and will be compatible with my wheel module and the box I am looking out for...

Just for shizz and giggs I removed the selector trim (obvs) and offered this up to the car to see what is needed to get it to fit...

Top view against the gaiter

Then removed the trim panel for a better look...

Rear fitment...

Side fitment...

Front fitment...

Its really not far off and I think with a little use of the adjustment stick I can get it to fit in there pretty well... I do actually plan to attack the shiny finish with a scotch pad at the very least and I may even paint it black... kinda depends on the results with the adjustment stick

More goodies are inbound and should arrive tomorrow

<tuffty/>

 

[S3AMJ]

I quite like the idea of it gloss black, one you don’t normally see them in gloss black and it’ll blend nicely with the piano black trim


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[<tuffty/>]

Something I have been meaning to post up for a while and not gotten around to it was the thrown together wiring details of the TT loom I used... I have started a thread on VR6OC with the hope that someone may pitch in from the forum with suggestions on the turbo cooling conundrum and with better suggestions on the timing chain setup for spaced setups...

Anyhoo... here is the info I put together... its by no means definitive and should be treated as a hint of where to start rather than followed explicitly

ECU TT 3.2 DSG loom small plug mappings...

14 pin plug mappings...

IECU input mappings... (current ones while still running as NA)

IECU output mappings... (again, current ones while still running as NA)

The mappings will change a little once I route the N75 and EGT but other than that they are where they are for now

<tuffty/>

 

[Tj 0785]

that’s helpful with the pin layout, cheers just starting to get the interest back in mine, i need to get my act together kind of lost my way a bit and been distracted

 

[desertstorm]

Rolling launch, Didn't know you were a street racer. Adlai Phillip has done a lot with VR6 turbo cars, he owns one . Find him on Club GTI ,very knowledgeable and helpful.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Rolling launch, Didn't know you were a street racer. Adlai Phillip has done a lot with VR6 turbo cars, he owns one . Find him on Club GTI ,very knowledgeable and helpful.

Lol... its cruise control in reality

Yeah... I know Eddie

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

Some more 'teasers' which aren't really teasers at all but who doesn't like shiny stuff (that aren't really shiny at all)

The DSG select knob is growing on me particularly as it turned out to be perforated leather so matches the 'sporty' feel but the button on the side wasn't in the best condition...

...so obviously... I painted it

While searching for DSG related bargains I found a Mk1 TT auto brake pedal which is pretty much a straight swap... all you need to do is remove the clutch pedal box and swap the brake pedal over... the pedal didn't come with the plastic clip to retain but a bit of googling later and found a part number for that too... I also grabbed a cheap TT left foot rest...

DSG TT brake pedal part number - 1J2723143H
brake pedal clip part number - 1K0721169

Obviously now I needed to change the wheel as I will want the flappy paddles... this can be a bit of a pain as I have the part number which of course brings back the "right" type of wheel but not always the right colour... the wheel I have currently is more grey than black... tbh it doesn't look out of place that it triggers my OCD (I know!!... right?) so took a punt on this

Part number - 8K0419091CB

It looks in really good nick but need to drag the car out to see how close a match it is to my current wheel and see if I need to actually look for a black airbag or can use my off black airbag...

I am going to at least fit the wheel even though the paddles are there... just means I can get the other wheel sold on and money back in the pot for the actual gearbox lol

<tuffty/>