My minor modding thread

Prawn said:
Nice stuff PT!

Is that a New old stock rear disc you refitted? Or is that the rusty one after a trip to the cabinet of magic and joy?

Definitely past it's best!

Shame about the minor set back, but this wouldn't be the minor modding thread without minor occurences!

Boosting soon my friend!
Click to expand...

wet blasted the worst off... back side of the discs is still very though... will doo until the new ones arrive

Yes... minor setbacks... the bane of a car enthusiasts life :)

<tuffty/>
 
I just love tuffty returning to his happy place when he hits a bump in his plans.


F.. the world.... i'm going to take a photo. Most of us just get some Stella out the fridge and binge watch something on TV
 
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LOL

is THAT how that bracket on the gearbox is meant to go!!!

I can never it it on there correct.

Thanks for the pic ;)
 
Had the chance of a ramp this weekend to try and sort this leak out...

In preparation to driving the car down I decided it might be a good idea to top up the oil... I wasn't sure how much it had lost in the drive home but rather ben safe than sorry...
20180517-96dpi-20180517_121024.jpg


Surprisingly the oil leak was nowhere near as bad once up in the air at the workshop... can only think its because I kept the speed below 40 and revs low so it wasn't kicking up loads of oil in the box...
20180520-96dpi-20180520_082352.jpg


So back at it and subframe off... again :)
20180520-96dpi-20180520_093331.jpg


Once the transfer box was off it only took a few taps (didn't hit it too hard to prevent damaging the bearings) to knock the drive cup/shaft out..
20180520-96dpi-20180520_110556.jpg


....gave that a little clean up in the kerosene tank and used a little scotchbright to get rid of the surface rust...
20180520-96dpi-20180520_111337.jpg


Once I had removed the old seal I cleaned up after it... there is a little corrosion... not sure if that contributed to the leak or not...
20180520-96dpi-20180520_112751.jpg


Fitted the new seal using a little sealant just to be sure...
20180520-96dpi-20180520_114009.jpg


Topped up the oil again as some was lost removing the transfer box and put everything back together... I then moved on to replacing the rather rotten rear discs...
20180520-96dpi-20180520_162229.jpg


Took the car for a quick test drive round the business park... parked up outside the workshop and left her there to cool while I cleared up...

Happy to say there was no signs of a leak... drove her home a little tentatively... but did give her the beans a couple of times when I had a bit more confidence...

So far there are no little puddles or signs of leaks... not holding my breath of course but seems for the time being all is ok...

Yay! :D

<tuffty/>
 
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Do you renew subframe bolts everytime? Im trying to fit engine+gearbox to car and there is not lot room, is it necessary to remove subframe for install?
Removing subframe is problematic to me also because car is on its wheels, not on lifter.
 
Warsuperior said:
Do you renew subframe bolts everytime? Im trying to fit engine+gearbox to car and there is not lot room, is it necessary to remove subframe for install?
Removing subframe is problematic to me also because car is on its wheels, not on lifter.
Click to expand...

You don't need to remove the subframe to pull or refit and engine/gearbox as you go in from the front anyway...

I renewed the bolts when I fitted the new box as I have had my subframe off a few times in the past... Even though VAG say to renew I didn't renew them this time... they cost £20-30 a time and are big b*ggers... not had issues in the past but I do still 'life' certain bolts all the same..

Removing the subframe to do a 'clutch' or in this case the transfer box makes the job that much easier and can be easily done on axle stands without a ramp...

Torque for the subframe bolts is 100nm + 90 degrees... this was showing as around 230nm on the Snapon torque wrench I used once done...

<tuffty/>
 
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If you have the car on axle stands be very careful tightening these bolts up the 100Nm is easy. 90 degrees makes them very tight.
 
<tuffty/> said:
You don't need to remove the subframe to pull or refit and engine/gearbox as you go in from the front anyway...

I renewed the bolts when I fitted the new box as I have had my subframe off a few times in the past... Even though VAG say to renew I didn't renew them this time... they cost £20-30 a time and are big b*ggers... not had issues in the past but I do still 'life' certain bolts all the same..

Removing the subframe to do a 'clutch' or in this case the transfer box makes the job that much easier and can be easily done on axle stands without a ramp...

Torque for the subframe bolts is 100nm + 90 degrees... this was showing as around 230nm on the Snapon torque wrench I used once done...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
Thank you again for great info. I just have to wiggle the engine in place, not going to remove subframe :) Hopefully I dont have to remove gearbox soon :D


desertstorm said:
If you have the car on axle stands be very careful tightening these bolts up the 100Nm is easy. 90 degrees makes them very tight.
Click to expand...

Car is on top of drive ramps, not on stands. Yeah 90degree turns are usually hellish :D but ty anyways. Now Im not gonna offtopic Tufftys topic more and lets get back to this magnificent build of his :)
 
Hella good job, your car looks so "new" and well cared under, lovley to see :)

I just had my subframe down for painting, powerflex new shafts, steering rack etc. Torqued all bolts to spec, but when I was doing the 90deg on the 2 bolts for dogbone to gearbox, both holes in the gearbox snapped, bolts was fine but threads got shi.tted. I feel like the 90deg is a bit overkill on these old cars now. And bolts was going in straight, I always put bolts in by hand first. Sight.

And as long bolts dont look "streched" I reuse.

The 02M is made of some magnesium metal btw ?

Sent fra min SM-G925F via Tapatalk
 
Solberg said:
Hella good job, your car looks so "new" and well cared under, lovley to see :)

I just had my subframe down for painting, powerflex new shafts, steering rack etc. Torqued all bolts to spec, but when I was doing the 90deg on the 2 bolts for dogbone to gearbox, both holes in the gearbox snapped, bolts was fine but threads got shi.tted. I feel like the 90deg is a bit overkill on these old cars now. And bolts was going in straight, I always put bolts in by hand first. Sight.

And as long bolts dont look "streched" I reuse.

The 02M is made of some magnesium metal btw ?

Sent fra min SM-G925F via Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Doing torque and a 90 deg on old alloy threads is a bit of a lottery... I have been doing this long enough to know when a thread doesn't feel right... having pulled a fair few threads in alloy components in the past you get to know...

Thats not to say you leave a 100nm bolt at 20nm just because it feels funny... you then need to replace or helicoil as required at that point...

Torque angle is a way to get bolts to the correct torque regardless of friction... if you leave out the 90 deg turn then your bolts are technically under torque spec...

And yeah, 02M is a magnesium alloy... the case is light as a feather... internals not so much... you can see why they break :)

<tuffty/>
 
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A week on and so far no sign of a leak... lets hope it remains that way....

So the next job on the list...
20180526-96dpi-20180526_140023.jpg


Pump is under the rear seat squab...
20180526-96dpi-20180526_104012.jpg


Unscrew the large plastic ringy thing...
20180526-96dpi-20180526_104048.jpg


Carefully pull the top of the pump out...
20180526-96dpi-20180526_105351.jpg


...and then you need to unplug the suction jet pipe and wiring plug then un hook the balance pipe mount... its rather fiddly to say the least...
20180526-96dpi-20180526_105411.jpg


The pump basket will then pull out of the tank... you can now see the suction pump pipe and balance pipe assembly...
20180526-96dpi-20180526_105653.jpg


20180526-96dpi-20180526_105640.jpg


Need to remove the fuel level float to get to the one of the tabs to remove the top of the swirl pot...
20180526-96dpi-20180526_110839.jpg


Removing the main pipe from the pump proved to be an interesting job... so much so I gave it to Alex (one of Bills mechanics) to do as he has done a fair few of them before... the pipe is on tight and I was too much of a wet blanket to pull it hard enough to remove :)

Pulled the old pump out... 17yrs old and has served the old girl well...
20180526-96dpi-20180526_135830.jpg


New pump pushed in... its quite tight with the o-rings...
20180526-96dpi-20180526_115035.jpg


Refitted the pipes and put it all back together again...
20180526-96dpi-20180526_120810.jpg


Fitted back into the tank... the seal can be a bit of an ar5e...
20180526-96dpi-20180526_121707_HDR.jpg


Popped up to the local Shell garage to top up on V-Power and did a couple of logs...

File 49002 fuelpressure


Fuel pressure seems nice and healthy now... time for more boost then ;)

<tuffty/>
 
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Been playing with the map...

Now added map switching and upped the boost to 320kpa at the top end..

file-50.001-Map1.PNG


file-50.001-Map2.PNG


file-50.001-Map3.PNG


Needed a little fine tuning on the timing... getting a little pull around 4-5k rpm... this is the surge area of my setup...
file-50-ignitionretard.PNG


So tweaked timing a bit... previous timing...
file-50-ignitionmap.PNG


Tweaked timing...
file-52-ignitionmap.PNG


The extra boost does appear to be working though... a comparison between the 300kpa run..
file-35-power.PNG


...and the 320kpa run...
file-50-power.PNG


Happy with that progress :)

<tuffty/>
 
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Warsuperior said:
Thanks for documenting fuel pump change! Its on my list too :) I have HFP 265LPH AWD Fuel Pump Audi S3 what is basically same as what you used, just cheaper.
Click to expand...
if it aint DW it aint the same..
ALL of the cheap pumps I've used have failed. cheap for a reason it seems
 
badger5 said:
if it aint DW it aint the same..
ALL of the cheap pumps I've used have failed. cheap for a reason it seems
Click to expand...
Got good feedback from pump I bought and several have it in use here where I live. No breakdowns yet.
Like I said basically same, doesnt mean same. Anyways we shall see how it performs.

I have to finish my fuel pressure arduino gauge, so I can follow it if needed. I have mechanical meter already hooked on return line.

EDIT: Same as they sell bosch 044 pump copy below 60 pounds here. It works the same but its just louder. Few companies even measured them and performs similar.
 
Last edited:
Warsuperior said:
Got good feedback from pump I bought and several have it in use here where I live. No breakdowns yet.
Like I said basically same, doesnt mean same. Anyways we shall see how it performs.

I have to finish my fuel pressure arduino gauge, so I can follow it if needed. I have mechanical meter already hooked on return line.
Click to expand...

given I sold/fitted many of these I had to cease selling them such was their failure rate. shyte pumps, shyte seller of them.. chinese shyte.
good luck! you will need it. DW only for us now.
 
:flushed: 40+ Psi wow, what BHP we talking now Paul? Can’t remeber what your car was producing previously
 
S3AMJ said:
:flushed: 40+ Psi wow, what BHP we talking now Paul? Can’t remeber what your car was producing previously
Click to expand...
32psi up top... 40psi is an absolute figure... The ecu calculates bhp from VE... Not run the car on the dyno since I fitted the ignitron ecu but the last couple of pics give you an idea of where the power is atm ;)

<tuffty/>
 
Nearly 600BHP! And still looks OEM, your setting the benchmark for us all mate. I’ve spent many an hour reading your thread over the ownership of mine. Been a huge help to us all.
 
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Been faffing with the boost control a little now that I have pretty much settled on top end boost...

Map 1 requested boost map looked like this...
File 53002 specified 000


So tweaked this a bit to liven it up...
File 53002 specified 001


Then adjust i-max to accommodate... before it was quite flat low down...
File 53002 spool before


Gave this a lift...
File 53002 spool 001


I did have it more aggressive than this but the concern was drivability... baby steps :)

I also raised the VVT cut off rpm from 5.5k to 5.7k... its around this rpm I was getting a little

On the road it feels a lot perkier on part throttle but doesn't run away with no control on throttle like an MBC type setup...

Did a 3rd gear run...
File 53002 powerrun 001


Pleased with that... need to drive the car a bit more to get a feel for the daily drivability... I also need to get the car on the dyno and baseline where I am...

I am not really expecting the power to be as high as the ECU reports it is as there are other factors involved in this calculation that can affect the final value but in context of the tuning and logging I have been doing the gains are relative and its heading in the right direction :)

She's still not a 600hp car... that would need a turbo change tbh (a nice 84mm billet comp wheel for example :) ) but on the road she feels so quick and planted...

Just need to save for the respray now lol

<tuffty/>
 
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S3AMJ said:
What about a GT4088R :tonguewink: good for 800bhp
Click to expand...
Hah... no! :)

tbh... I am happy with what power there is... next turbo will be a billet GT3584....

600+ on a 20v is really quite difficult to get reliably... more boost, bigger turbo etc just makes the engine laggier and more unreliable...

The path is clear... if the turbo goes it will be replaced by a GT3584 billet... if the engines goes (and I hope it doesn't of course) then I'll stick a VR motor in it :)

<tuffty/>
 
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Makes perfect sense to me PT, I’d be over the moon with 585bhp. Heaven forbid your engine does go! But if it does, I’m calling dibs on it, it’ll be worth a fortune when you publish this thread as a book! Lol
 
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Wow.... again very nice upgrades and results...
Still need to give Balazs the OK to send me an ECU. seeing you playing around with it makes me want it more and more..
BTW, I have a Xona rotor 8267 for sale(actually 2 of them, both with Tial housing, but 1 internally WG V-band, and one straight EWG V-band), if interested!!
 
Happy to leave it for now and decide later... goubo's S3 has the billet 84mm but pretty sure its a 7+7... not a fan of GTX style wheels like the Mamba one...

The next iteration of turbo will have metal cage bearings, billet and a ported housing... I still get a little surge in higher gears from lower rpm... not enough to get upset about but means I have to hold the duty back to stop it going silly so a ported housing will help me there

<tuffty/>
 
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