My minor modding thread

Brilliant thread Tuffty , that buggy of yours must be immensly quick , sorry for being dumb but how does the paddle clutch beat the standard item with less contact ?
 
Righty.... finally found a slot in Bill's (and mine) busy schedule to get and do some work on the car... quick overview of the current situation... I haven't had the mapping tweaked since I fitted the large port and done all the other work, I have got a split PCV pipe that VAG appear to want nearly £40 for and a part throttle issue that dumps fuel when I let off giving multiple misfires and on two occasions a stalled engine in slow moving traffic... wet plugs are a bitch to get going again when you are holding up Cheltenham traffic lol!!...

Anyhoo... up until recently I have been running just an MBC but I want to use the N75 again to try and make the engine more drivable... I have connected this up initially with an MBC in parallel as the N75 seems to want to give me over 30psi!!! this is most likely down to the map now being unsuitable for the enhanced flow configuration of the last round of mods...

Today I put a temp fix in for the PCV pipe as I plan to fabricate a catch tank and plumb it all to that... I have fitted a cone filter which I have been running for a little while now but I have some more work to do to fit the airbox trim cover (not the top half of the OEM airbox) to keep the OEM look under the bonnet... I have also fitted a section into the DV return hose that allows the N75 to vent back to the intake as it was previously venting to atmos... this appears to have improved the part throttle issues I was experiencing so hopefully once the map is sorted drivability will be better...

Plan for tomorrow is to go back to some of the first versions of the map and start working our way back up to get a baseline and tweak from there... the map I have at the moment is a bit of a fraken-map as there were changes to try and overcome issues I had that turned out to be nothing more than vac leaks and the EGT probs which are all now resolved...

One thing is apparent though, I have no timing pull since I finished the last amount of work (not that there was much before anyway) so hopefully I can add some more timing advance and the spool seems better too... certainly doesn't seem to be an end to airflow either... I still have the boost creep/wastegate prob to resolve but once mapped and running the right boost it won't be that noticeable so it can wait until I change the VVT unit sometime in the new year.

I may have a play with the actuator at some point as I am sure CR have sent the turbo out with one rate a tad higher than the one I had before... I need to find a balance between good boost control and low actuator pressure to see it it improves the drivability at all... will have a chat with Forge over that one :)

Will update with a progress report tomorrow evening..

<tuffty/>
 
Righty.... finally found a slot in Bill's (and mine) busy schedule to get and do some work on the car... quick overview of the current situation... I haven't had the mapping tweaked since I fitted the large port and done all the other work, I have got a split PCV pipe that VAG appear to want nearly £40 for and a part throttle issue that dumps fuel when I let off giving multiple misfires and on two occasions a stalled engine in slow moving traffic... wet plugs are a bitch to get going again when you are holding up Cheltenham traffic lol!!...

Anyhoo... up until recently I have been running just an MBC but I want to use the N75 again to try and make the engine more drivable... I have connected this up initially with an MBC in parallel as the N75 seems to want to give me over 30psi!!! this is most likely down to the map now being unsuitable for the enhanced flow configuration of the last round of mods...

Today I put a temp fix in for the PCV pipe as I plan to fabricate a catch tank and plumb it all to that... I have fitted a cone filter which I have been running for a little while now but I have some more work to do to fit the airbox trim cover (not the top half of the OEM airbox) to keep the OEM look under the bonnet... I have also fitted a section into the DV return hose that allows the N75 to vent back to the intake as it was previously venting to atmos... this appears to have improved the part throttle issues I was experiencing so hopefully once the map is sorted drivability will be better...

Plan for tomorrow is to go back to some of the first versions of the map and start working our way back up to get a baseline and tweak from there... the map I have at the moment is a bit of a fraken-map as there were changes to try and overcome issues I had that turned out to be nothing more than vac leaks and the EGT probs which are all now resolved...

One thing is apparent though, I have no timing pull since I finished the last amount of work (not that there was much before anyway) so hopefully I can add some more timing advance and the spool seems better too... certainly doesn't seem to be an end to airflow either... I still have the boost creep/wastegate prob to resolve but once mapped and running the right boost it won't be that noticeable so it can wait until I change the VVT unit sometime in the new year.

I may have a play with the actuator at some point as I am sure CR have sent the turbo out with one rate a tad higher than the one I had before... I need to find a balance between good boost control and low actuator pressure to see it it improves the drivability at all... will have a chat with Forge over that one :)

Will update with a progress report tomorrow evening..

<tuffty/>
 
Hey Paul, I'm going to try and get up over the next couple of days with the black car and stick it on Bill's rollers. I'm really interested in your clutch 'cos the dimwit I bought the car from stuck a standard LUK clutch in it and I don't think it's going to last. I haven't dared launch it for fear of spinning the friction plate off the spline!! LOL
 
scoobyra said:
Hey Paul, I'm going to try and get up over the next couple of days with the black car and stick it on Bill's rollers...
Click to expand...

Give me the heads up then mate as I am not there all week... I'll make sure I am there :thumbsup:

scoobyra said:
I'm really interested in your clutch 'cos the dimwit I bought the car from stuck a standard LUK clutch in it and I don't think it's going to last. I haven't dared launch it for fear of spinning the friction plate off the spline!! LOL
Click to expand...

Clutch seems to be working fine... done a couple of launches but in this weather coupled with my winter tyres I just spin up anyway lol... need to get a new pairs of tyres for the rears for when I put the 18's back on... will see how good it is then ;P

I am pretty confident it will last launches without lunching itself any time soon but unsure of its long term reliability as yet... even if it only lasts 30k I would replace it with the same based on current performance... that could change if it suddenly goes all pete tong of course lol...

<tuffty/>
 
finesse said:
tuffty, can you tell more about the temp fix for the pcv pipe please?
Click to expand...

Not much to say mate tbh... mine had split on the top of the pipe where the hose clamps on... its the metal reinforced bit... all I did was pull it off where it has a bit of a bead and pushed the hose a bit further down hoping it will hold for now.... oil may blow past it still as the pipe is pretty flimsy and it still may pull out on the dyno.. its not a permanent fix though, new pipe is the realistically the only way if keeping it std or oil resistant hose...

<tuffty/>
 
thanks, same issue with mine where it has broken. I will try that later or buy a new millon pound pipe
 
Ok... Bill kindly spent a couple of hours today logging my car and playing with stuffe.... Didn't bother swapping maps out at this stage as he wanted to see whats what in the world with this one...

The setup for the runs was current map, N75 connected and MBC (Forge UNOS) in parallel wound right in on the soft spring which gave us 20psi.... did 3 runs including the 312bhp one and ended up with 317bhp with everything nice and warm.... checking the logs there was no timing pull... I had already added 3 deg advance over the map through unisettings previously so Bill added some more... ended up with a figure of 338bhp after a couple of runs... heading in the right direction then :thumbsup:

Still no timing pull so added a tad more... ended up running 23 deg advance in total under boost with no pull... and hit 347bhp... not too shabby all things considered and not touched the boost as yet... still holding at 20psi...

Checking the AFR, there is a lean spike on spool then sorts itself out again.... from 5.5k on though it gets rich and at 7k plus its low 11's (ideally needs to be 12.5)... EGT's are low 700's, AIT's are low and inlet mani was not hot to touch after the runs...

Logged loads of stuff and Bill is gonna chew that over to work out where to tweak stuffe etc to get the fuelling back in tow and tweak some other shizzle...

Anyhoo... a promising start with more to come :)

Tuffty_20101229_01_Dyno.jpg


Tuffty_20101229_02_Compound.jpg


Prob not gonna get a chance to do any more until sometime next week but will obviously update the thread when I have some more info...

<tuffty/>
 
audi upgrades
Mmmm power. Exciting stuff dude, you must be eager to get it all finalised and have a dam good solid figure.

How come torque isn't very high though, starting to confuse me this torque business, itvarying sooo much between cars and mods, some remapped cars have more, why's that?
 
superkarl said:
...How come torque isn't very high though, starting to confuse me this torque business, itvarying sooo much between cars and mods, some remapped cars have more, why's that?
Click to expand...

Large port head, big turbo, and low boost is the main culprit on mine... torque will rise though once the boost gets turned up but its not the same as small peaky turbos like the K04 etc... I don't fully understand it myself tbh but I have seen my engine produce over 300ftlbs on previous runs before fitting the large port head...

If you look at the torque of run 6 you notice the torque actually rises as the revs increase... once the boost is turned up then that will bring the peak torque lower down the rev range but will be higher and hold well as the revs increase... benefits of a big turbo :)

<tuffty/>
 
Andrew@A.L.D said:
How much boost are you planning on running?

It will make 400bhp easy with the right boost level
Click to expand...

Not sure... will get the fuelling right and timing advance set in the map first then up the boost a bit at a time until it either makes no more power, boost is getting silly high or the ecu complains by pulling timing then back it down a bit... 24psi seems a fair target though... peak bhp was moving higher up the rev range every time we tweaked the timing so flow doesn't appear to be an issue...

<tuffty/>
 
Andrew@A.L.D said:
Fueling and timing isn't going to be a problem then, Your still running 3 bar?
Click to expand...

I haven't seen the logs yet so don't know where the injector duty cycle currently sits... still running 3 bar but will go 4 bar if injectors look to be close to maxing out...

<tuffty/>
 
Great result on only 20psi of boost tufty, them torque figures are madly low compared to mine(240bhp/280torques).
400bhp here you come!!!
 
BT's dont generally kick out big torque, and its power delivery is boost limited currently to see whats happening on the logs etc.
more boost, more torque but sustained way into the high rev range hence making more power overall, than the smaller turbos which give their all early on, but cant sustain it.. high peak torque figures but less area under the curve so to speak.
 
347bhp.................. F**K

That's exactly what i said when i read that! Awesome stuff Paul, good to see progress on it. Look forward to my trip next year to Bill for Revo stage 2 :)
 
Grabbed a couple of hours this afternoon to look at sorting the cone filter installation... There are a couple of goals to this... first is to fit the trim cover over the cone filter to give the OEM look that most of you know is the theme of this build and second is to see if there will be enough room to house the oil catch tank I plan to fabricate.... the current setup has the Jetex filter just sat in the lower half of the OEM air box and the PCV venting to the underside of the car... I did have an eBay catch can but there was no place to fit it nicely so its found a new owner and I plan to fabricate my own (a baffled one) and design it to fit where I have space...

While I have been sorting the rest of the car out and the mapping I have been running the Jetex filter pretty much just plonked on... The inspiration for this came after seeing Warleydaddy's cone filter install where he fitted the trim to give the OEM look... the only real problem is the filter he used was a bit smaller than the Jetex which of course makes things a little more tricky...

Current Jetex install...
IMAG0443.jpg


..and the recent addition of an inlet for the N75 bleed pipe...
IMAG0444.jpg


As you can see in the following picture, the size of the Jetex and the current angle of the fitting means I can't get the cover on at all...
IMAG0447.jpg


...so I removed the lower section of the airbox to remove a couple of sections from its floor... the plan is that it will allow the Jetex cone to fit lower in the lower airbox section and give me room to fit the trim cover and potentially the catch tank...
IMAG0448.jpg


Now to cut some stuffe out...
IMAG0449.jpg


...front section where hopefully the catch tank will reside...
IMAG0451.jpg


...rear section to help position the Jetex cone...
IMAG0453.jpg


...lower section fitted back into the car... as you can see from the front section, there is a little bit of room to drop the catch tank down close to the gearbox mount to get some capacity if needed...
IMAG0454.jpg


...and as you can see from this pic, there is a little bit of work needed to the TIP to alter the alignment a bit and some extra sections needed to join it all together... I may also need to adjust where the cold air feed comes in to allow the Jetex cone to sit closer to the wing giving me a bit more room for the TIP/MAF pipework and the proposed catch tank...
IMAG0456.jpg


I positioned it all roughly then placed the trim cover (this is not the top half of the airbox but the trim cover that S3's have...)
IMAG0457.jpg


Ran out of time to do any more tonight but will try and find some time over the weekend to work out the rest... plenty of scope for adjustment in the TIP as its sectional and the silicon can be trimmed etc as required...

That's it for now... happy new year everyone :thumbsup:

<tuffty/>
 
The PCV pipe bodge (sorry... temporary fix) decided to give up the ghost today so needed to get something sorted on that really... I noticed that the non VVT 20v engines on Ibiza's have a pipe thats metal rather than plastic and appear simplier in design so dug one out of the bits box to have a look...

Looking at them side by side the Ibiza (maybe the same as early A3's too) pipe is 'Y' shaped and metal while mine is plastic and crap... and broken of course...
20110102_IMAG0459.jpg


The problem with this pipe of course is that it isn't a direct replacement... nowt will line up right for a start on a std engine layout and as can be seen in the following pic of the pipe in its rightful place on an actual Ibiza its designed to fit with no VVT actuator in the way which sticks out the side a bit further...
20110102_IMAG0466.jpg


My current setup uses a Forge replacement hose for the crappy rubber ***** coupling the PCV together to the 'hocky puck' from the cam cover and crank breather...
20110102_IMAG0464.jpg


...the Forge pipe that will be coming off :(
20110102_IMAG0471.jpg


Early AMK engines are different to this setup (Danes car being the one that springs to mind), mine being a later AMK shares more with BAM engine codes and Forge list this part as BAM only but it will fit later AMK engined S3's (and possibly LCR/TT's too)

As I still need to fabricate the catch tank I have set this up pretty much how I had it before venting down to the deck for now... I need to make some adjustments as its touching the VVT unit so really need to stand it off a bit to stop engine vibrations wearing through the VVT actuator and/or the PCV pipe...
20110102_IMAG0470.jpg


Bill had a new new file for me to try and see if we could get the AFR sorted from 5.5k as it was going very rich and killing power...

Before running the car on the dyno though I wanted to check the oil pressure as since fitting the AEB large port head I have developed a rattle on idle that I am pretty sure is the VVT unit but to be sure I wanted to check the oil pressure as the oil pump is cheaper and easier to replace if it turned out to be that... hooked up an oil pressure gauge and got the car strapped to the dyno...
warmed her up and checked idle pressure... around 22psi... loaded the car up and this went up to over 80psi (all checked at 90 degrees engine temp)... not the pump then...

Looks like I will need to get a new VVT tensioner unit then.. rubbarsh :(

Oh well, next Bill ran the car up on the dyno and we managed to get 'a run' before the dyno decided to not record coast down losses... not that there was much point as the AFR went lean after 6k rpm so did some logging runs and left it at that as time was pressing on... the car did manage 354bhp though on the same boost which goes to show the rich AFR was killing the power at the top end... Bill didn't rag the engine too hard though as while it wasn't dangerously lean its better to be safe than sorry... ran out of time so will tweak the map again and try another day...

Quite productive so happy :thumbsup:

<tuffty/>
 
your car is awesome need to stop reading your thread makes me want to spend money i dont have lol!joking apart you must proud what you have done top job mate!
 
Ok paul its seriously time for me to get my clutch so how are you finding yours know youve had a bit of a chance to drive it?
 
Paddle clutches arn't as bad as you think steve

I had one in my old car and it was the full thing with a uprated cover and plate

I can't see it been that bad in tufftys as he only has the plate thats been uprated, well worth fitting as you will have the clutch to cope with more power if you want to go down this route.
 
Speedy Steve said:
Ok paul its seriously time for me to get my clutch so how are you finding yours know youve had a bit of a chance to drive it?
Click to expand...

Its been fine mate... I have been using the S3 as the daily runner pretty much since I got her back on the road from the clutch/head fitting etc...

I have said this before so I will say it again... I cannot vouch for the longevity but as an effective solution I can say its working for me so far...

<tuffty/>
 
cool where did you end up getting the sachs plate from i couldn't find it in the thread
 
Cool will do im in serious need its getting really bad just hope it will make it down to bills to fit.

He has an Email know!
 
Last edited:
I baught a 1.8T motor last year which had a paddle clutch fitted.

The clutch and flywheel was about 9k old, and both the flywheel and the cover plate were in seriously bad shape.

Cerametallic Paddles have one major issue, in that the compound grips harder and harder as it heats up, which is great when your trying to deploy 400hp, but when your driving the car normally around town or whatever, the constant slipping of the clutch that happens in normal driving just eats into the flywheel/coverplate.
 
aragorn said:
...Cerametallic Paddles have one major issue, in that the compound grips harder and harder as it heats up, which is great when your trying to deploy 400hp, but when your driving the car normally around town or whatever, the constant slipping of the clutch that happens in normal driving just eats into the flywheel/coverplate.
Click to expand...

I concur... I think the wear/mileage could be subjective though.. we will see what happens with mine... I am not particularly hard on clutches but I guess this is the price one has to pay for power...

<tuffty/>
 
I've just checked with mark, he had to have 0.7mm taken off the flywheel to remove the groove the paddle had cut into it...

Given the power and torque levels the S4/RS4 folks are putting thru a standard 240mm clutch, i dont think your S3 should be anywhere near requring a paddle.
 
aragorn said:
...Given the power and torque levels the S4/RS4 folks are putting thru a standard 240mm clutch, i dont think your S3 should be anywhere near requring a paddle.
Click to expand...

Maybe, maybe not... bearing in mind mine isn't a full clutch kit... the cover plate is OEM which currently gives me a very light but grippy clutch...

We shall have to wait and see how long it lasts and what components it takes with it... might be a bit cheesed off if it only last 9k of course but I have covered over 3k on the clutch so far with no ill effect...

The guy that recommended it uses it on a 450bhp TT (before nitrous) for doing 1/4 miles and then uses the car at the weekends to drive about in... he had his in for over 2 years with no issue (so he told me) before swapping it for a helix kit which he hates... the setup I have is going back in..

Its also the same setup MTM sell for there BT conversions...

As a clutch the setup I have works very well indeed... normal driving is fine and launching lights up the wheels rather than the clutch plate... if I get anywhere near the mileage of my last OEM clutch I will be happy (lasted about 30k but was never the same after my first launch)

Clutches are a very subjective subject from all my research... its not a cheap thing to play about with either... an OEM clutch is an expensive enough job to do let alone the added cost of a performance one plus I think clutch life OEM or otherwise is very subjective...

I'll stand by my feelings on the setup I have... I am more than happy with the setup... it is light in town traffic but grippy enough to survive the half a dozen or so launches I have done with no noticeable effect on performance which is more than can be said for a std clutch...

Longevity of course is an unknown in my case... I may well be able to make the clutch last 30k after which it may all need replacing and tbh I probably will anyway or just 10k...

I cannot possibly comment either way atm or recommend another clutch setup as I have no experience of any others... the paddle plate may be overkill on a std K04 S3 but something like Wellys and potentially Steves hybrid S3's it would be useful...

<tuffty/>
 
4 x puks will wear quicker vs a full face plate, like for like materials..... however, organic oe materials vs ceramometallic puks on the paddle is very different wear rates.

my ibiza has run assorted clutch setups over the years, and 4 puks did not last as long as the full spec stage 3+ plate I currently run, but it far outlasted the performance helix organic plate which preceeded it..

for someone not hard on it, then I would expect it to last pretty well.
launching it, then things will wear.. lol, what do people expect? hehe
 
Ok, quick update on progress... I haven't done much more on the mapping side of things as I haven't really found the time as yet... I have a new map that should be addressing the higher RPM fuelling issue but not had a chance to get on the dyno and tbh it may end up being on hold for a little while as I really need to get the VVT cam chain tensioner unit changed and the wastegate ported on the turbo to stop the boost creep I am getting... last dyno run was to establish how bad this was and I bypassed the N75 etc going straight to the actuator... the boost initially hit 12psi at 3.9k rpm (actuator pressure) then crept to 23psi at 7.8k rpm but the interesting thing was it made 374bhp at 7.8k rpm with no sign of the curve peaking...

Not much point in pursuing this really until I have sorted the turbo out etc...

Anyhoo, I still have plenty to do and so cracked on with sorting the Jetex filter out so I could fit the airbox cover...

How it looked initially...
IMAG0488.jpg


To get the cover on I needed to get the Jetex filter straight in the lower section of the airbox so I used a 76mm 45 degree silicon elbow chopping it quite close to the bend as I needed it short enough to extend from the MAF and still keep the filter in airbox... I also trimmed a bit off the 90 degree bend coming off the TIP to sit it all back enough to fit...
IMAG0489.jpg


With that looking good I then cut the top off the upper section of the airbox as I wanted the cover to sit properly when fitted so the best way is to use what was already there...
IMAG0490.jpg


...top removed...
IMAG0491.jpg


...then notched out the sides where the Jetex filter would sit so the frame would fit over nicely...
IMAG0493.jpg


IMAG0494.jpg


...finally... using an 80mm alloy coupler (which was a sodding tight fit!!), I fitted the Jetex filter to the 45 degree bend and clipped it all together...
IMAG0495.jpg


...fitted the top trim cover and screwed it all down using the original screws etc...
IMAG0496.jpg


...happy with the result...

Will update again soon when I have sorted the turbo out...

<tuffty/>
 
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