My minor modding thread

When testing the maximum airflow through an intercooler the whole unit will get quite hot due to the friction generated by these high air speeds passing through it !!!!

Cheerz,

Alex.
 
AHFabs said:
When testing the maximum airflow through an intercooler the whole unit will get quite hot due to the friction generated by these high air speeds passing through it !!!!

Cheerz,

Alex.
Click to expand...

Aye I know.. and its >200'C charge outlet temps to begin with as well pre IC, post turbo in real use.

Do you have an airflow bench which can flow this qty?
what is a tolerable pressure drop across a core in your eyes Alex?
(airflow proportional obviously)

I know there's a rule of thumb where duct velocity is deemed too high when it gets over X meters per second, but I cant for the life of me find it currently.

>250mph internal airflow velocity however is fcuking high when you work it out tho.. Quite an eye opener is'nt it.

I know mines 65lb compressor turbo, which has run 35psi boost and 9000rpm... thru my 63mm pipe.. Made me consider 70mm or 75mm more appropriate for my application thats all. I run 80mm throttle body.
 
so to summarise will my crappy stage 1 S3 benefit from 51mm pipework or do i need to think bigger :)
 
1animal1 said:
so to summarise will my crappy stage 1 S3 benefit from 51mm pipework or do i need to think bigger :)
Click to expand...

On a K04 mate all is good in the world... debating on getting a new cooler made up with the 60mm pipes in place and selling mine on rather than hacking mine about tbh...

<tuffty/>
 
well i'll have that off ya then fella if you do sell.....my concern was the detriment of reducing to 51mm pipes when everyone with KO4's seems to think 63mm is the way to go
 
1animal1 said:
well i'll have that off ya then fella if you do sell.....my concern was the detriment of reducing to 51mm pipes when everyone with KO4's seems to think 63mm is the way to go
Click to expand...

Look at it this way mate... I am still making around 350BHP on 51mm...

<tuffty/>
 
well yeah....its more of a case of what you could get if it were bigger though isnt it?
 
1animal1 said:
so to summarise will my crappy stage 1 S3 benefit from 51mm pipework or do i need to think bigger :)
Click to expand...

51mm pipe is smaller then Oe pipe.. point one

pipe diameter is related to the airflow.. point two

k0x airflow, wont exceed these pipe diameters ability to flow.. BUT, what you will get is a square law relationship of airflow vs internal resistance when the velocities get too high.. (not that relevant on a k04 turbo)
 
1animal1 said:
well yeah....its more of a case of what you could get if it were bigger though isnt it?
Click to expand...

we wont see that single change tho. more than one thing will be changed.
what is clear to me personally, that a 51mm pipe is not suitable for a GT30 airflow
 
badger5 said:
51mm pipe is smaller then Oe pipe.. point one

pipe diameter is related to the airflow.. point two

k0x airflow, wont exceed these pipe diameters ability to flow.. BUT, what you will get is a square law relationship of airflow vs internal resistance when the velocities get too high.. (not that relevant on a k04 turbo)
Click to expand...

tufftybloke said:
^^^ What he said :)

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

more than enough for me...cheers Bill/Paul :)
 
Started work on the car at last....

Jobs to do over the next couple of weeks include...
Fit large port head with all its supertech goodies... fabricate new water pipes/banjos coming off the turbo as the current ones leak... fit the new flywheel, clutch and Sachs paddle plate... fit the R32 75mm throttle body... change charge pipes going into the FMIC from 51mm to 60mm and re-route the nearside pipework replacing it all with 60mm alloy tubing... fit supersize DV making mods to the TIP as required...

...I have also found the nearside inner CV boot has split so that will be done as I will have the driveshafts out... will take pics etc and post up a seperate tutorial thread on this as I know its been discussed a few times and I have done a few of these now...

There are some other little jobs I may do depending on time etc but the focus is the above...

Coolant leak hasn't been that bad and looks worse than it really is but still needs sorting...
IMAG0078.jpg


..state of play as of now with the plan to have the head off before I leave today...
IMAG0084.jpg


I will of course be updating the thread as I go until the car is back on the road and will ppost up videos of the dyno runs as the mapping will need tweaking and hopefully should be getting closer to the magic 400bhp..

<tuffty/>
 
I take it youll be doing your clutch aswell Paul. Im getting to the stage where its going to need doing very soon
 
I glance at the words and look at the photos more lol. Yes after posting i did see you were but you haven't yet come on man stop slacking you need practice ready to do mine haha
 
Yay!... head is off... ****** heavier than I remember it too!!!

20100905_IMAG0090.jpg


..engine bay is looking a bit bare but will make it a bit easier to get the gearbox off (hopefully)...
20100905_IMAG0093.jpg


...found a small problem though with the water housing that fits to the side of the head... bits have started to break off, no idea where they are and could find their way into the water pump which is a worry... hoping I have got all the bits and will have to get a new housing..
20100905_IMAG0095.jpg


Turbo/manifold is nearly off... couple of nuts are being buggers so soaked them in penetrating fluid and will finish them off tomorrow before getting on with removing the driveshafts etc ready for taking the gearbox off and doing the clutch (with me so far Steve?) with help from great mate Mark...

<tuffty/>
 
good work paul.
when you have swapped head bits over, spin the cams over several times on the bench so all valves have cycled, and you can feel it turn smoothly.. just to be sure the springs are fully seated. ;)
 
badger5 said:
good work paul.
when you have swapped head bits over, spin the cams over several times on the bench so all valves have cycled, and you can feel it turn smoothly.. just to be sure the springs are fully seated. ;)
Click to expand...

Will do mate.... getting the gearbox ready for removal is a thankless task :(

The turbo mani has proven to be a git to remove... 2 nuts left and IIRC I fitted the mani first then the turbo as the nuts were a nob to get too... v tight too so gonna have to remove the turbo first... rubbarsh...

<tuffty/>
 
Been a long day.... seems like I have removed half the car to get to the gear box but its all ready for removal now (I hope at least) and when great mate Mark pops over to give me a hand...

Removed the metal pipe that spanned the front of the car legacy from the old SMIC's... simple enough task once I had removed the plastic trims from underneath the car and undone the bolts holding the power steering pipework to it... I will have to make up some brackets for those later.... the metal pipe is only held on by three 13mm bolts either side of the car and isn't that heavy tbh...
20100906_IMAG0098.jpg


... removed both drive shafts...
20100906_IMAG0104.jpg


...to stop the shaft turning while undoing the bolts...
20100906_IMAG0103.jpg


...make sure (on cars with factory Xenon lights) you undo the Xenon level sensor rod from the lower arm before...
20100906_IMAG0112.jpg


...cracking off the ball joint... if the Xenon level sensor rod is left connected you could break the plastic arm off...
20100906_IMAG0110.jpg


...and done...
20100906_IMAG0117.jpg


The pile of bits being removed is growing...
20100906_IMAG0120.jpg


Hit a problem with undoing the subframe bolts as they were firkin tight and required the he-man strength of Tony's mate winney (sp) to undo them!!

As there wasn't much more I could be bothered to do (been at this most of the day and now into the evening) I decided to take the turbo off the manifold so I could start stripping the head... turned out to be a very disappointing move... checking the comp wheel there was a little frilling of the blades, nowt to worry about I don't think but one of the vanes has a slight bend in it...
20100906_IMAG0122.jpg


...there is also far too much oil in the intake so I am going to simplify the PCV and fit a catch tank somewhere...

...things got worse when I inspected the turbine housing...
20100906_IMAG0123.jpg

20100906_IMAG0125.jpg


******!!! pretty sure I am going to need a new housing... not really sure how it happened as tbh the most my car gets ragged is when its on the dyno... will see what Bill has to say :(

Hoping the clutch swap will go a bit smoother but if I need to buy a new housing it will impact my initial plans of getting another FMIC to play 60mm pipework with as I can't afford both... turbo trumps FMIC in this case... rubbarsh...

<tuffty/>
 
Last edited:
s3dave said:
jesus that has not lasted long, is that with high egt,s
Click to expand...

I reckon it didn't help when running too high boost and a restrictive exhaust but looking at the plugs and the colour of the turbine etc the engine hasn't been running hot recently in fact it all looks good which is confusing...
It's done now so just need to sort it and move on... I am confident the engine is running fine at the moment so maybe just unlucky this has happened... onwards and upwards...

<tuffty/>
 
Looks like your exhaust system is not free flowing enough and the heat and pressure build has caused your turbo to crack.

Didnt you run the standard system for a bit, what you running now. Have you thought about DLC or wrapping your exhaust mani and downpipe to help reduce your EGT's..

Nathan
 
Paul did you ever find out the cost of the clutch plate ive had a look through and all i could find was you were waiting on the invoice also where did you get it from
 
Blimey just been looking on JBS website at clutches and they say 5 hrs approx to change the clutch are the super hero's that work there?
but then you are paying a grand for single mass flywheel and clutch set
 
S3 Nattie said:
Looks like your exhaust system is not free flowing enough and the heat and pressure build has caused your turbo to crack.

Didnt you run the standard system for a bit, what you running now. Have you thought about DLC or wrapping your exhaust mani and downpipe to help reduce your EGT's..

Nathan
Click to expand...

I disagree... my current exhaust is fine, EGT's are currently normal... after talking to Bill he has seen this before on GT28's (my comp and turbine housings are modded GT2871r housings to keep the turbo compact)... I ran the std system (less CAT) initially and hit EGT's of over 1100 degrees... its feasible that this may have contributed but the exhaust was changed for a 3" straight through system shortly afterwards...

The DP is wrapped but I am not considering ceramic coating or wrapping the mani as its not an issue... after doing a bit more research I believe this to be a fairly common issue and I am going to have a word with CR Turbos to see if they can do anything before I look to change the hotside..

s3dave said:
water meth needed i think
Click to expand...

On the list but way down now especially if I have to get a new housing.. :(

Speedy Steve said:
Paul did you ever find out the cost of the clutch plate ive had a look through and all i could find was you were waiting on the invoice also where did you get it from
Click to expand...

I did, I would suggest you have a word with Bill for a retail price though....

Speedy Steve said:
Blimey just been looking on JBS website at clutches and they say 5 hrs approx to change the clutch are the super hero's that work there?
but then you are paying a grand for single mass flywheel and clutch set
Click to expand...

Its lies I tell you!!! no way 5 hours on a quattro A3/S3

Gearbox is ready to come off now.... just taking a tea break before taking on that task... heavy box :(

Removing the subfram (needed to be dropped but just as easy to remove tbh as its my time)...
IMAG0126.jpg


IMAG0131.jpg


...gearbox waiting for removal prior to the tea break :)
IMAG0132.jpg


more to come...

<tuffty/>
 
tufftybloke said:
I reckon it didn't help when running too high boost and a restrictive exhaust but looking at the plugs and the colour of the turbine etc the engine hasn't been running hot recently in fact it all looks good which is confusing...
<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

exactly.
it was running too high a boost for some time if you remember.... pumping hard for no return.
less being more as usual.

unknown when this damage happened.
see my email copied to you to cr..
 
badger5 said:
exactly.
it was running too high a boost for some time if you remember.... pumping hard for no return.
less being more as usual.

unknown when this damage happened.
see my email copied to you to cr..
Click to expand...

innit... just got the mail, cheers for that bud...

badger5 said:
*cough* great idea..
that and change the pi$$ small 50mm pipework and it stands a chance of flowing with hemmoraging itself again
Click to expand...

all waiting for you when you get back off hols mate ;P

<tuffty/>
 
audi upgrades
according to chaps that did mine PAul...it was 11 hours labour in Audi's book to remove, unsure if that included refitting, presume it would :)
 
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