32gb internal and a further 32gb micros SD... I have read that larger cards (128gb) works but the specs only suggest 32gb in the blurb <tuffty/>
Thanks Tuffty, I’ve purchased a secondhand Linx Vision 8 like new condition. I’ll keep reading into the iPod gen 7 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Evening dude, I can confirm that a SanDisk “Ultra” 200GB works fine. Did a little digging around and apparently this one works, not sure on anything bigger than that though. It’s all down to read and write speeds. Anything more than 100MB/s and they fail. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thats good to know... might try one I have in the tablet later as I have three of the four I ordered for the iPod++ iPod++ in OE 160gb HDD state ...with 2x 200gb cards in the iFlash mod ..and with 3x 200gb cards in the iFlash mod ..tomorrow I am hoping the last card will turn up... I also have a replacement battery and casings on order... the disassembly of the classic is quite tough and forces you to bend the case to take apart... the replacements were cheap enough tbh <tuffty/>
the last card turned up today... Full compliment of 200gb micro SD cards taking the iPod++ to 800gb of storage from its original 160gb Of course due to the crazyness of quoted capacity vs usable and some other odds and sods that happen in the file allocation tables of storage I am left with 732gb for my music... not too shabby... After syncing my music for 4 or 5 hours (and I mean all my music).... this is what I am left with... Little bit of room for expansion I have been asked why an iPod and why 800gb... that more music than anyone would ever want and phones stream music these days... well... a) because I can!!!... 2) I like having my phone as a phone and my music seperate on a device designed to play music z) the iPod classic (I have a gen 5, gen5.5 and now this gen 7) just do the job... battery easily lasts all day listening at work then I can plug it into the car where its picked up as a CD Changer and then I have all my music on tap... My mobile signal is rubbish at work anyway so streaming is not really an option... its not that reliable around where I live in the sticks either... yes I can download stuff to the phone but I like my podcasts and they take up space... I can't be bothered to constantly juggle my music to suit my taste so I choose to have it all on the iPod where I can pick and choose what I like. anyhoo... getting the classic apart is a massive chore... Apple made it far more difficult to do than my old gen 5's and you actually have to deform the back half of the shell to allow it to come apart... I also 'bruised' the case a little levering it apart hence the decision to get new parts to replace them.. They are not genuine (what is these days) but look really good... I am still waiting on the battery so once that arrives I'll rebuild the iPod with the new kit and that should then sort it for the foreseeable future... Happy days <tuffty/>
Amazing job mate,I thought my claasic 160gb was good but your's is unreal... I always think coating anything in batter makes it tastier
Is there any reason why the brake line couldn't go in-board of the shock body? I think my brake line is fouling the wheel when I turn. The new BC coilovers I've got didn't come with a brake line bracket so it's currently cable tied to the shock. Wondering if routing the brake line in-board is an option
No idea tbh... its was the factory way and the hose length was enough to allow for it.. I would imagine the issue you will have is the way it attaches to the caliper will dictate how you route the hose.. mine are 90 deg to the mount face.... if yours are straight out then you may have a bit of wiggle room <tuffty/>
Mine are also right angled (LCR Brembo 4 pot with HEL lines) Potentially I have too much of the slack in the line pulled through aft side of the shock which has created quite a sizeable loop of free length and fouls the inside rear of the wheel as I turn away
That's so sad too see, especially as I am building with a set of the same rods. But not going to be 440Lb/ft of torque. Some Tuscan I beam rods or some of Bills Hurricane rods I suppose.
Looks like the block is a little ventilated and certainly the block will be wrecked anyway as the the bore would be too damaged.
This brings back so many bad memories, sad to see this . I think this is a sign that it’s time for the 3.2 turbo build to begin.
Cheers all... So... as you have all gathered I have had a rod failure on my engine... I had developed a vibration during hard acceleration on my way to Bills this morning so drove the car gingerly until I could get a decent look at what may be the cause... initial thoughts were either the DMF which has been making noises for a little while now or maybe the Haldex clutch.. Later in the morning I took the car out down the road to see if I could work out where the vibration was coming from and having literally just got out of Bills gate the vibration started so I turned around and made my way back just making it through Bills gate before the engine stalled out... That was a little concerning... gingerly restarted the engine where I immediately turned it off again after hearing a rather nasty knocking noise... and a nice little puddle... Pushed the car into the workshop and on to the ramp where I whipped off the sump... And of course the obligatory hole in the block shot.. Disappointing... Checking the logs revealed no unusual events leading to the demise of the rod... there were a fair few fault codes relating to crank/cam correlation which made me initially think the belt had slipped and cause a series of events leading to rod failure.. After further investigation this little lot was just down to the crank trigger ring being hit (assumedly by the piston) and had flattened it enough to cause mistriggers... I pulled the plugs out which looked perfect and stuck a bore scope down to see if there was anything obvious and couldn't see anything embedded into the crowns or any other obvious damage... feeling a little more relaxed about it all now as it seems that cyls 1,2 and 3 are ok and 4's damage may be limitied to the block and rod... The remaining part of the rod on 4 rotates smoothly with no other obvious signs of over heating or blueing... the piston on the underside has marks but difficult to see how bad they all are.. Best case scenario seems to be replacement block (bored obvs), rods, piston + engine build stuff (shells, gaskets etc) Its possible that the piston could be saved... but its also possible that there could have been contact between it and the valves I plan to remove the head tomorrow and get a better idea of what the prognosis is... Whats needed to get the engine running again will dictate where I go with the repair... it maybe that the cost of repair could be better served being put towards a VR swap... the value of the salvageable parts of my engine would help soften the blow of that I know I realistically should be leaping at the chance to go VR now and if the engine was actual toast then I'd be more inclined but as it stands its not as easy as that as I still need to find parts and time to do it as well as trying to find ramp time for the car in between Bills busy schedule... As it stands I suspect the car may get dragged back home and SORN for a while but I will decide over the coming week which direction I will go... One things for sure I am not ready to give up on her and do what everyone else tends to do and break her... I just can't bring myself to do that... The Color MFA seemed to work ok though... so thats a bonus <tuffty/>
Gutted for you, for me as a my car was standard going bt or v6 was pretty much same cost and labour wise I’ve alre spent a few k and I’ve still got all the custom fab work and labour to sort yet, which wouldn’t be a problem for you with your skills but with how your car is with the oem looking bay its a shame to have to rip it all out but as you say you would recoup a fair bit of the cost selling yout remaining set up When I opened my email and seen this I thought it was a mfa update was not expecting to see this
Always the silver lining knowing the ColourMFA worked mate, but truly I’m sad to see this happen. Will catch up with you on Monday.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hmm it’s going to be interesting to find out what’s been the cause, do you have any likely causes in mind?
Put simply it was a bent rod... the IE H beams don't appear to be up to the task... have actually seen these rods bend before but that was way after I had built my engine with them If I rebuild the engine I will be using I beam rods rather than H beam <tuffty/>
3 x sets H beam Snapped. +1 x set bent over the 10+ years of using them I Beams being the ones we now use more commonly.. and not IE unless Tuscan by request. Dissapointing
4 out of prob 10s of 1000s, hardly a failure rate worth shouting about. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
True but the fact they failed at all is enough for me... 10,000 miles and 5 years is not really that good for a product thats marketed as tested on 700hp engines... I was really hoping to find a reason for it and fully expected to find a cracked mains cap or a blued rod cap but the engine internally is perfect... Obvs use is subjective and all bets are off with modded engines but all the same you tend not to fit something like that knowing it still could fail randomly like it seems to have... It makes not odds either way to me... I-beams will be going back in... In other news I removed the head today and checked over the rest of the engine... Rod is toast (obvs)... Bearings look good though.. Cap took a hit too... Bores look great considering (don't take any notice of the notches made by the rod at the bottom of course lol) Rest of the cylinders look fine... Piston is also toast which is a shame as its mostly intact... The damage above is from the rod notch in the block :/ Even the piston crown looks ok with mild dents ...which are due to the centre valve giving it a kiss.. You can see in this shot where the rod splayed out once bent... The mark on the right above the pin area was (I believe) the result of it coming into contact with the trigger wheel... So... next steps... I need to strip the head and check if there are any more bent valves in cyl4... once I know what the deal is there it seems all I need to get the engine sorted is a new block, rods, a piston, valve(s) for cyl 4 and a trigger wheel... I am hoping we can get hold of a single piston but there is still a chance I may have to buy 4 new ones... Considering the nature of the failure the damage has been very very light... have seen engines completely lost from this sort of failure so I feel fairly happy that I got away with what I did... just wish it was under slightly different circumstances... <tuffty/>
Good reliability record as in I hadn’t heard of any failures until now. 4 out of 10000 is still worse than 0 out of 10000 . Great news it’s not as bad as feared though!
aww man thats is so damn bad luck! hugs for you! I really started to think, maybe I should invest after all on those I-beams instead of my H-profiles now. Still very sad for you!
Oh dear not good at all to see this! but you sound positive about it and it's salvageable so not all lost, just not what you'd want to be doing I'd imagine
Im sorry to hear that, Tuffty. Stay strong! Az én iPhone készülékemről küldve a Tapatalk segítségével
Its relevant to degree of use I guess. The ones I mention are the ones I know about... in the sphere I operate in, its too many (1's too many) K04 hybrid level, H beam should be fine, but one failure was of k04 hybrid (reused rods however after previous engine oil pump failure, so a little unknown), but others on 500+bhp have shown a ripple in the H section & one snapped, looked like bolt failure possibly.. Needless to say, I Beams although heavier are the preferred offering when we build 500+ engines these past few years.
Stripped the head and seems there is only the one issue with it.. see if you can spot it.. Head will get rebuilt and valves lapped back in... will replace the exhaust guides as removing supertech single groove valves knackers the guides due to the collet groove getting a slight edge on it from the extra load of the double springs and heat of the exhaust.. Piston on order as are new rings and uprated tool steel gudgen pins Block has been sourced and I am putting a list of all the gaskets I need to get (forgot how many is actually needed lol) Exhaust mani needs rewrapping as does the down pipe so that will get done too... Thankfully not as bad as it looks but still a bitter pill to swallow at the end of the day... Oh yeah... and as seems to be the way with old heads I have found another couple of threads have pulled on the cm cover and cam caps so a few more helicoils to do as well <tuffty/>
