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There will be a short interlude of stripping the haldex and diff for internal cleaning first...

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JohnDuh

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So she's up on jackstands or did you buy "new" parts?

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<tuffty/>

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There will be a short interlude of stripping the haldex and diff for internal cleaning first...

<tuffty/>
These are replacements... they will get cleaned up and serviced and I'll replace the whole back end in one go...

The current 'break not sell' trend makes it little easier and cheaper to allow this to happen :)

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Alex C

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how's the rear subframe; just surface rust?
 

<tuffty/>

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how's the rear subframe; just surface rust?
Bit manky to be honest so will evaluate mine when I take the diff out and most likely just wirebrush and brush paint mine on the car as I don't fancy the idea of having to realign the subframe at this time...

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<tuffty/>

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So today I mostly took the replacement diff apart to inspect and clean

20161229_152859.jpg


Pulled out the diff first...
20161229_160229.jpg


Inside just needs a clean, no obvious debris or wear..
20161229_160248.jpg


Stripped the haldex... the housing opposite the controller appears to be a 'sump'... was a bit of debris on the swarf magnet and the oil had a tinge of gold metallic from the clutch friction plates
20161229_163339.jpg


20161229_163355.jpg


Removed the front of the haldex clutch unit... all the rollers fell out :(
20161229_163939.jpg


..so popped them back in... luckily they fell out in the right order...
20161229_164602.jpg


Removed the clutch pack to check wear...
20161229_164619.jpg


Haldex is a multiplate wet clutch system and is a mix of plain and cerametallic friction plates..
20161229_164644.jpg


20161229_164647.jpg


Cleaned out the clutch housing...
20161229_164559.jpg


Cleaned the diff too...
20161229_174100.jpg


...and put the haldex back together...
20161229_174105.jpg


Bit more cleaning to do and still waiting on the controller and doughnut... then I can paint it!! :D

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Stuart B

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did you fill the haldex up whilst on the bench, or is that ill-advised?

I'm loving the calmness of the rollers falling out, but still managing to take a photo. :)
 

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Not filled anything as yet... still needs a final clean and paint first ;)

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<tuffty/>

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Paul , this is on my list to do as mine is dragging only when it's cold ( ok once warmed up !!!!)
I'm going to buy a 8N TT one , are all seals re useable or are there paper gaskets involved ?

They are o-rings... personally I wouldn't reuse them and have just spent some 60 quid on new o-rings, bungs and seals...

I'll post up a list of part numbers once they arrive

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Prawn

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Excellent work pt! It wouldn't be you without the cleaning and painting!

Hope it's all back to its full health when I come up in 10 days time :)
 

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Took the haldex apart again as decided I couldn't reuse the o-rings again...

There are four o-rings, one big one for the unit and three small ones for oilways...
20161230_141640.jpg


Using this link to sort out part numbers I order the seals plus some other parts I needed
http://audi.7zap.com/en/rdw/audi+a3+s3+sportb+lim+qu/a3/2002-209/5/525-525015/

The three seals in the pic above aren't shown on the diagram but are 02D525349

This is the list of parts I ordered but this also includes an o-ring for the diff end cap and a diff fill plug as the one on this diff is a little corroded
HaldexParts002.png



Will have to wait now until next week for the parts to arrive but not expecting the controller and doughnut till then anyway sooooooo....

20161230_145232.jpg


...I painted stuff :D

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<tuffty/>

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Moar Partz!...

20170105_160952.jpg


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superkarl

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Why the need for the dognut?
 

superkarl

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You met me right? ;)

<tuffty/>

Haha yeh but there is always a logical reason, just wondering if you've noticed wear or anything that could be detrimental. I've never ever considered that part before


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<tuffty/>

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Haha yeh but there is always a logical reason, just wondering if you've noticed wear or anything that could be detrimental. I've never ever considered that part before


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Have seen a couple go... tbh I am clutching at straws a little with what may actually be wrong as I can't drive the car at anything over 10-15mph without it shaking to bits and while I have jack the car up and had a look its difficult to see whats wrong as there is nothing obviously hanging off anywhere so ideally I need to get her up in the air at Bills on the two poster and leave it running to listen and observe..

I was always going to refurb the drivetrain so this is all part of that... I will also replace the front one too when I come to swap the gearboxes over...

Just drove the car down the road again as the noise seemed to have gone when parking her up last week but no... its still there so will have to organise getting her recovered to Bills when he has space and a ramp free to have a look...

I wouldn't care if she would drive with the haldex powered off but there is a rotational knocking noise now and that could be anything... rather than do more damage I would rather leave her locked away until I can arrange to spend time with her at Bills...

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Stuart B

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Are you going to keep your old haldex for spares or do the same service with your old one and recycle? I am not after it, just wondering if you hoard the stuff as if I read the thread right - it doesn't seem to have been the problem?

I assume it cant be anything to do with the suspension you changed a few weeks before.

A question about the fuse 31 / haldex - does that simply stop the clutch engaging? - is it possible to run an S3 with the haldex and diff etc fitted but without the propshaft installed?
 

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Old diff/haldex will be stripped to see if there is anything salvageable from it... it will most likely then be left out for scrap...

I still have no idea what the actual problem is... even if it turns out that the haldex/diff is ok I will most likely scrap it as it be too cost prohibitive to put back together and sell on considering I would prefer to replace all the seals..

I doubt it is anything to do with the suspension work but I am not discounting anything until I have got to the bottom of it...

Pulling fuse 31 cuts power to the haldex controller and pre-charge pump... as for running it on the road without a prop... this will be much the same as running on a 2wd dyno with the fuse pulled or being towed with front wheels off the ground... sustained drive like this will overheat the haldex oil and damage the clutch pack as one side of the haldex will be turning while the other isn't (or as much)...

You can run haldex cars on 2wd dynos for a short period of time as by design there is expectation for speed differential between prop connected and diff connected plates... this is how it acts as a centre diff when in normal operation and not engaged... but if this was sustained then the haldex would over heat, kill the oils lubrication properties and cause excessive wear to the clutch plates...

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sparrow

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If you have a spare Haldex controller and unit lying around, I'd like to have a play with one
 

<tuffty/>

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If you have a spare Haldex controller and unit lying around, I'd like to have a play with one
I'm sure I can sort something out dude

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<tuffty/>

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Will the Haldex controller be painted blue and put on eBay for £800?

Orange for £850 ;)

I have two spare... could do both colours :)

So... today some boy racer turned up...

20170108-96dpi-IMG_5005.jpg


20170108-96dpi-IMG_5000.jpg



...and I used my expensive array of o-rings and seals to put the rear diff back together...
20170108_160703.jpg


20170108_153638.jpg


Just need to sort getting the car down to Bills and then paint the diff ready for replacing... I will do this regardless of if I find another issue or turns out not to be the problem...

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<tuffty/>

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I know I'm one to talk, as @Prawn well knows, but is that a somewhat hairless patch spreading or just the light? :p
I didn't use flash so it's definitely not a light issue ;)

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scotty_24

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I didn't use flash so it's definitely not a light issue ;)

<tuffty/>

I had a full head of hair.
Then I bought a S3 8L.

A few nervous breakdowns later, my sun roof is expanding like Nicks too ha ha
 

scotty_24

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I had flowing ginger locks until Feb 2011 and I bought this blasted car ha ha !
Buying a house has finished it off.


Good progress in all areas though lads! Mines now has a new role of a new shelf in the garage to put things on, but manifold swop is penciled in for a fortnights time!
 

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So this morning... this happened!!..
20170115-96dpi-20170115_105203.jpg


Huge shout out to Bill for trailering the old girl to the unit...

Got her up on a ramp, let her run in 5th on idle.... and this was the result...



So... appears the centre bearing is f00ked... I suspect thats the root of all the issues at this time so not really the diff at all but... as I have said before a drive train refurb was always planned and the parts for the diff was cheap enough not to worry about so no real drama...

Plan now is to remove the heat shield and have a look at exactly whats gone... it could still be either the CV or centre bearing... could even be both but I will price up for both and most likely replace both anyway..

Will post pics up later once I have had a look

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The Chippy

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I can see why the car would feel like its shaking to ****!!!! That's quite a mass wobbling about there!!
 

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Removed some stuff...
20170115_131056.jpg


Centre bearing is a nasty looking voided thing but was in one piece at least but with all the heatshielding out the way it was fairly evident that the centre CV wasn't in a happy place...

On inspection it was then clearly evident it wasn't in a happy place!!
20170115_131149.jpg


20170115_131212.jpg


Quick dose of brake cleaner later and...
20170115_131533.jpg


Ah!...

Removed the joint and cleaned up the parts that fell out lol...
20170115_140324.jpg


So won't be changing the diff just yet but I will do it at some point just because...

Have dug out some part numbers and will have a chat with our friendly parts guy... hopefully have her back up and running next weekend

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<tuffty/>

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Part numbers for the centre CV and bearing are
1J0598331 - centre CV
1H0521349 - centre bearing

Not sure how much these will be as yet but a few searches suggest the cv kit could be pricey... in typical VAG way the pricing of stuff is unpredictably variable.. there is nothing special about this CV either as its a parts bin part... its essentially a 100mm inner CV from an Ibiza Cupra (an others)...

On the left is one of Bill's spare inners for his race car.... on the right is whats left of my prop one..
20170115_153105.jpg


20170115_153113.jpg


Worst case if the kit works out too expensive I'll get a normal 100mm CV and you can get the boot separately (mines split...)

Not much more I can do until parts arrive so left the car in a state of undress...
20170115_150204.jpg


...removed (and cleaned) the drive cup on the rear section of the shaft in readiness to remove the support bearing..
20170115_135142.jpg


Support bearing looks ****** awful as a bit of kit... poor old thing must get a hammering!
20170115_154209.jpg


Was happy with the findings of the day... glad it was obvious what the problem was and have never seen or heard of one going before (hence not even considering it)...

As I was about to leave the unit the evening gave me another small photo op.... I do like golden hours :)

20170115-96dpi-IMG_5163.jpg


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Stuart B

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good job on the discovery, those CV joints look totally different, is it really worn that much. Is this general wear and tear of 500BHP wear and tear?

Inspired by your photography I took some snaps with my mobile phone walking the dogs. lolz its really difficult to focus on the moon with a 6mm lense.

Screenshot 20170115 203559


Screenshot 20170115 203625


Screenshot 20170115 203643
 
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