Its age related, Audis of our vintage seem to be dropping stats like flies atm.
Stat is quite easy. Pop the bumper, drain coolant. Follow lower radiator hose up to the water pump housing. remove hose, and undo the two bolts (you may need to remove support bracket) and pull the housing off and remove stat. refitting is reverse of removal.
Does the stat measure both the oil and water temp then?
Only both of mine are reading low (most of the time - occassionaly the water will jump to 90, but then it's away back to 70 again. The oil never gets above 65)..
Doesn't sould like a massive job though - it might be my first experiment with working on the v6
When its broken, it opens too early, or simply never closes, which means too much water flows thru the radiator, and the engine never warms up. These engines are fitted with an oil cooler, which uses engine coolant to reduce the oil temperature, so if the coolant temp is low, the oil will be too.
The instructions above are for a 4 cyl engine, the v6's are much harder, as the stat is behind the timing belt.
Got a similar problem and was wondering if the above theory would still be correct based on the below info:
1. Stat changed a few months ago with timing belt and water pump
2. Temp guage hits 90 deg gradually and stays there when engine is running
3. Flushed heater matrix with garden hose at the bulk head in both directions untill water was clear
4. Filled up with G12 and left engine running (with cap off) to release any trapped air.
5. No a/c, so checked that manual controls open flaps fully when fan is blowing.
Air only slightly warm, just wondering whether the stealers fitted a dodgy stat.
Running the engine with the cap off is silly, dont do that you'll only make it boil over.
With the engine OFF and cold, pull the heater hose back until the little hole in the pipe is exposed. Then fill the expansion tank with coolant, slowly, until it starts to come out of the hole. Give the radiator pipes a bit of a squeeze to dislodge any bubbles. Once the coolant level no longer drops (i tend to fill a little bit above the max line) and a steady trickle is coming out the hole in the heater pipe, push the pipe back on and do up its clip. Refit the cap.
Then start the engine and drive round the block.
Let it idle and ensure the temp stays sensible, and make sure the heater is working.
Sounds quite practical and straight forward, but did'nt notice any holes in any of the pipes the last time I took both rubber hoses off.
(I'm assuming the heater matrix pipes referred to are the 2 metal ones that stick out from the bulkhead with one slightly warmer than the other when engine runs)
I'll run through your suggested procedure over the weekend but was wondering whether its adviseable to use a dremmel to drill a small hole in one of the pipes in the appropriate location should in case i don't have any.
If so which would be the appropriate one?
JP-TQS - My apologies as I don't mean to hijack your thread, just hope other forum members can gain from solving a similar problem.