My Audi Project

Ash187

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VCDS Map User
Gold Supporter
Mate can i give you my car to go over it and give it a nice clean? seriously some impressive stuff here! can't wait to see more
 
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Sayam

Well-Known Member
VCDS Map User
Mate can i give you my car to go over it and give it a nice clean? seriously some impressive stuff here! can't wait to see more
+1 lol
 
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Ash187

Registered User
VCDS Map User
Gold Supporter
:whistle2::blush:

Thing is, i'm probably a bit older than the average user here and over the years have done my time with modded cars. These days im happy enough with a clean car ....
Il do the modding, you do the cleaning... just tell me what you want doing and and my car is your playground :beerchug:
 

enc

Registered User
couple of updates this from the other day....

Garage who sorted my CV boot have lost my locking wheel bolt ..
advised i call in at the garage so they could look over my car to see if the locking bolt key was "where they usually leave them"
As if i hadn't already had the car upside down to see if i could find it :confused:
Needles to say it couldn't be found. Garage said i would have to leave the car with them so they could chisel it off ....F*ck that !!

I thought i'd have a pop myself.....

There were actually only two locking bolts of this type remaining on the car (OEM Audi bolts). I thought 23mm looked about right so with lump hammer in hand whacked on a 23mm hexagon pattern impact socket which went on some resistance but wasnt tight to get a purchase on the bolt on the bolt.... and then wouldnt come off either :keule:



The other remaining locking bolt i whacked on a 7/8 (whatever that equates to in metric) multi spline socket... a much better purchase and bolt removed in seconds. Yep, the sockets US now.




So off i tootled to work.. one of the guys at work suggested i call out the AA as usually they can deal with this stuff. err, after 25 minuets struggling they couldn't :( ****, what was i going to do?

My commute home from work takes me past a Halfords service centre, thinking what have i to loose i called in. After a bit of persuasion they took in my car saying they couldn't promise anything. 10 minutes later the socket was off and the bolt was out...even better NO CHARGE :applaus:

The Guy wouldn't even take a back hander instead saying just visit Halfords online and leave feed back for us. Yes, its text book customer relations building but a pleasant surprise none the less.
Ryan @ Halfords service centre, Bury New road in Manchester your a ******* legend :superman:


Locking wheel Bolt and impact socket after removal...




Did i mention i have a new set of rims to go on ?
 

enc

Registered User
With the spell of unseasonably mild and dry weather on Saturday I took the opportunity to service the car.

What was done?

Renew oil
Renew oil filter
Renew air filter
Renew fuel filter
Renew pollen filter
Battery
Check fluids (top up washer fluid)
Under engine check for leaks etc
Grease door hinges
General engine bay inspection






How Long ?

2 plus hours at a leisurely pace taking photos along the way.
Take into account this car is new to me and this is the first service I’ve carried out on it. Could probably do it in 1 hour plus at a decent pace now I’m familiar with it.


Tools required?


Jack
Axle stands
Rags
Oil drain catch
Philips screw driver
T20, T30 Torx bits
19mm and 32mm sockets
Ratchet.




I used Bosch and Mann filters with Castrol Edge fully synthetic oil. Indecently, Mann are a OE filter supplier to some car manufacturers including Audi. A heads up on the Castrol Edge, Asda are selling it at £30 for 4 ltrs at the moment (jan 2015) Halfords down the road were asking £47 for the same.....






1/ With the engine at running temperature, jack up the car and support on axle stands.

2/ Working underneath the car Remove the T20 and T30 Torx screws securing the under tray and remove it from the car.

3/ Place the oil catch tray underneath the car.

4/ Unscrew and remove the 19mm drain plug from the sump and Allow the oil to drain into the oil catch.

( I continued with other parts of the service and left the oil to drain)

5/ Remove the engine cover and using a 32mm socket remove the oil filter housing cap. This is easily accessed from above but the housing lid was VERY tight!
With the cap being made of Plastic/nylon, from the pressure I was putting on it, I was concerned it might’ve stripped or split…. It didn’t.

6/ Remove the cap and withdraw (a few centimetres) the filter and allow the used oil to drain back into the housing. Remove the filter from the car. Mop the inside of the housing with a cloth to remove as much used oil as possible.

There are lots of variants and filter types for this model so with the old filter removed from the car I compared it with the new one to make sure it was the correct type,






7/ Remove the housing rubber seal and replace it with the new one provided with the new filter. Insert the new filter, replace the housing lid and tighten.






8/ Check that the old oil has finished draining and replace the sump bolt.


At this point whilst underneath the car with the under tray removed… its an ideal opportunity to inspect the steering and suspension components, drive shaft CV boots, intercooler and the cooling and air con hoses for leaks.
I found a build up of oily gunge around one of the inter cooler joints which I’ll deal with at a later date.

9/ Replace the under tray and lower the car to the ground. Replace the engine cover, Fill with oil and replace the oil filler cap.



Replacing the air filter


Possibly the easiest air filter change ive ever carried out ?

1/ With a cross head screw driver, loosen (but don’t remove) the screws from the housing cover.






2/ Ease the cover to the side to allow access to the filter, remove the filter.


On first inspection the filter didnt look to bad ...





But once removed you can see just how bad it really was ...








The old and the new filters....





New filter ready for fitting...







3/ The next step isnt really necessary but I do it anyway…Vacuum out the lower section of the housing and wipe clean. Underneath the top cover was spotless so despite the filter being caked in **** it was still doing its job.






4/ Insert new filter, replace housing top cover and tighten screws.


New filter in place ....

 

enc

Registered User
Replacing the pollen filter





The pollen filter housing can be found behind the glove box in the passenger side foot well.

The housing with filter removed...



1/ Remove the screw holding the sound proofing

2/ slide the cover to the right (towards the centre console)

3/ Carefully ease out the filter.





Old and new filters...




I wasn’t prepared for the **** that fell out from the housing as I withdrew the filter. Proof the filter was still working I guess !

(The filler is quite fragile so take care when inserting it into the housing !)



4/ Noting its orientation Insert the filter into the housing

5/ Replace the cover and lock by sliding it to the left.

Replace sound proofing making sure the warm air vents are not covered.

Vacuum all the **** that fell out whilst removing the old filter :(




Door hinges

Anyone who has read previous updates will know back in late October I detailed the door openings and hinges. At the time this removed all traces of grease and grime.

Protection was provided by Meguires 3 stage system and Gtech C2V3

TBH they’re holding up pretty well but I thought they’d benefit from some high melting point grease during the winter months.




Topping up the washer fluid

 

enc

Registered User
Replace fuel filter


After reading various how to’s and how it could be difficult to start the engine after replacing the fuel filter… I really wasn’t looking forward to this however, It was all quite straight forward.
Previously id de rusted and coated the housing lid with hydrate 80

Unfortunately at that time the weather turned and I never got to paint it… So its going to need doing again when the weather improves. Also I have new hose clips which ill replace when I properly detail the engine.






A central drain screw and 5 (T30) torx screws secure the lid. I Started by spraying WD40 onto the threads after allowing to penetrate a while I wiped excess WD and accumulated dirt from the lid ( you don’t want dirt to fall inside the housing)







Pack the outside of the filter with rags to soak up any diesel that may spill.

1/ Loosen and remove the centre Torx screw.

2/ In a DIAGONAL sequence loosen each screw a quarter turn

3/ in a DIAGONAL sequence loosen each screw a couple of threads at a time.

4/ remove all screws

5/ lift the lid from the housing and and allow excess diesel to drain back into the housing. Secure the lid to one side.





6/ Remove the filter from the housing and away from the car try not to drip diesel as you do so,

Once removed I compared the old and new filters to make sure I had the correct replacement. I put the old filter into a plastic bag for disposal.


New filter with seals provided with the filter. ...






7/ Remove and discard the original green seal from the filter housing.

8/ Insert the the new green seal provided with the new filter (I found it easier to insert the seal to the lid rather than the body)

9/ Insert the new filter into the housing and noting its orientation insert the blue “Olympic” seal on to the filter (it’ll only fit properly one way)





10/ Carefully top up the filter housing with diesel

Now the tricky bit….. remember on removal I loosened and removed the securing screws in a diagonal pattern ? it’s the same with replacement.



11/ offer up the filter housing lid and align the screw holes and hose outlets.
Start with one screw so it just catches the thread then the same with the second screw diagonally from the first and so on ….each screw should be tightened a couple of turns only at a time… apparently, failing to do it like this can distort the cover or strip out the screw threads. Secure the screws to the specified torque.

12/ Finally, refit the centre screw using the new washer provided.



13/ Start the engine and let it run for at least a minute.... check for leaks.



Battery check

I removed the battery outer cover to find the battery is sealed and maintenance free.
A quick wipe over and some copper grease on the terminals.










And a complimentary "swirl free" wash .... you wont get that at your Audi dealership :p


 

enc

Registered User
To quote myself ....


enc;4684761 said:
Service records state over 2000k until next service is due but never a fan of long service intervals I'll be carrying out fuel, oil and air filter replacement ASAP.
Other plans include..

Pdr on passenger door
S line rear spoiler
4 wheel refurb .. Undecided to do them myself or go pro refurb.
Brake caliper refurb in black or silver
2 tyres so will be matching set all around
Engine bay detail
Touch up stone chips
Full exterior detail with machine polish
Full interior detail
Possible new head unit.

So .. Plenty to keep me busy !!!


So, time to take stock..... the goal post have changed some what .... don't they always :rolleyes:

TBH, most of the above has been sorted .... to a degree.


Full service.... Completed


Pdr on passenger door....Completed

S line rear spoiler.... Still on the look out for an OEM spoiler

4 wheel refurb .. Undecided to do them myself or go pro re furb...... Two done but replaced wheels anyway. other two will be done at leisure.

Brake caliper refurb in black or silver..... ive given them a quick lick of paint but they'll will be stripped and painted/detailed in the spring.

2 tyres so will be matching set all around .... Completed

Engine bay detail..... 25 percent completed

Touch up stone chips.... completed

Full exterior detail with machine polish ..... Complete except roof still to do.

Full interior detail ..... Completed except headlining. will be going over it again in the spring.


Possible new head unit.... not bothering now single to double din is too much hassle.



Stuff not planned but done....

MY11 rear lights
Audi Kinetic alloys
New front Suspension top mounts
New front dampers
New front springs
4 wheel alignment
Replaced nearside CV boot


And the new TO DO list ....

Clean EGR valve
Fit new front discs
Renew rear dampers
Renew rear top mounts
Renew rear bump stops
Renew rear damper dust covers
Finish engine bay detail
Finish inetrior detail
Sort leak on inter cooler pipe


Not to everyone's taste but its getting somewhere near how i want it...


 

BaileyA3

Registered User
It's got to be said you've got a real talent for making cars look really nice. Did you find anything suitable to re coat your sills?
 
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enc

Registered User
Been on the look out for the S Line spoiler for months. New from Audi these are £260... add painting and fitting and your looking at £360.

Original Audi spoilers don't come up very often on Ebay and when they do, command a premium and sell pretty quickly. After market ones, usually made from GRP can be difficult to paint and take lots of work to fit properly (if at all).

I won this OEM, Sline spoiler (part number 8P3 860 943) on Ebay.

Manufacturers stamp on underside.... made in Italy ! ....





This is for the 3 door model with brake light arpature. Its in pretty good condition but will need refinishing/colour change to suit my car....





Originally these are attached to the car with 2 bolts and double sided sticky tape.....





Not wishing to drill my tailgate mine will be bonded with Sikaflex...





In preparation ive removed the bolt lugs by cutting and grinding with a Dremel

One of two bolt lugs....




Dremel with cutting wheel ....




Area taken to below surface level with a Dremel grinder bit. Its not pretty but on the underside and will not be seen. Its Important area is taken below surface level so as not to contact metal of the tailgate which would eventually rust...




So, thats the easy bit sorted.

With this being a used spoiler i had to remove the double sided sticky tape... removing the tape is pretty hard going. Initially, i was heating the tape with a hair dryer and "rolling" it off with my thumb. doing it bit by bit was taking ages resulting in a blistered thumb. Clearly a different method was required.

I bought some Hilka cotton gloves with rubber tipped fingers and with help from Megan (she aimed the hair dryer) i rolled the tape from the spoiler. This method was much easier and with Megans help i didn't have to stop to re -heat the tape stop to roll, re- heat the ta.....with protection from the rubber tipped gloves ...... no more blisters :)



In the next image you can see the original foam/rubber strip attached to the upper edge of the lip. This is where the spoiler contacts the tailgate, ill be removing this for painting and as a replacement isnt available from Audi ill be using glazing seal instead. This is on the underside and once the spoiler is in place will not be seen.



Trial fit ...







I Dropped the spoiler off at the paint shop earlier for prep and paint. Car will be taken Friday lunch time, spoiler fitted and ill collect Saturday lunch allowing plenty of time for Sikaflex to set.
 

enc

Registered User
Great detail! Out of interest, why do you choose the Bosch fuel filter over the Mann?

i actually bought all the filters and stuff when i first bought the car a few months ago. there are so many different variants... initially i chose the mann filter from euro car parts but when they checked my cars chassis number the only compatible one in stock was the cheaper mann filter. so i went for the Bosch. Bosch is generally decent quality.
 

batch

Registered User
Really enjoying following this thread, your attention to detail is superb. And your eye for perfection makes me look sloppy!
The car looks fantastic, keep up the good work!
 
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DomH

Registered User
Love threads like this, wish I had the motivation to be this OCD

Keep it up :thumbs up:
 
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Jhcx

Registered User
Looks amazing. love the attention to detail. will be taking a page out of your book and tackling the engine someday the difference it makes
 
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enc

Registered User
Had a rear parking sensor go down.

Compare the original with the replacement....





Im not sure if the replacement is an OEM part.... its stamped with the Audi logo, has the correct part number stamped on it (though ends in the letter D ...original ends with letter A. I dont know the significance of this) and looks to be of equal build quality. As far as i can tell the only difference is the price. My replacement cost £10.99 from Ebay. To buy from Audi its £106.44 ...Make your own conclusion.





Colour is Lava Grey metallic LZ7L. I had this aerosol mixed cost £14.00...






I de-greased the sensor with panel wipe and dried off. Key the plastic with the sanding sponge. I used the sanding sponge as it fits the contours of the sensor better than sand paper. Panel wipe applied by sponge and dried off.




I Refined the surface with very fine wet and dry paper.... ready for primer ....





First dusting of primer...







Third coat of primer ready for colour coat...






First colour coat ...







After second colour coat.... ready for clear coat....





Clear coat applied ... (2 coats in total)





New sensor fitted in the bumper ....

 

DomH

Registered User
The D just means it's the newest revision of the original part, A to B to C etc etc ;)

Good work, paint looks spot on!
 
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enc

Registered User
Apart from the odd clean and a service, ive done little to the car of late.
This last week the engine has given a bit of a shudder when switching off. the other day, the emissions warning light remained on. Also keeps popping a fuse.

After a google session and a few threads on here the signs point to a defective throttle body.
taking advantage of their 10 percent off weekend, I picked up a Pieburg throttle body from Euro car parts (same as fitted from factory)
Incidentally, you can now pick up after market TB's from ebay for under £100
I await delivery of a diagnostic cable to scan and confirm before replacing.... regardless, ill be stripping and cleaning the EGR valve and fitting the Seat restricted flow gasket (which ive been putting off doing for months ) which will hopefully ease the gunging up of the EGR.
 

Dannymoto

Registered User
Brilliant thread, as many have said very good attention to do detail.

Reading this makes me want to do the exact same, keep up the good work!
 
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enc

Registered User
So my lead turned up...






First time ive used VCDS ... managed to get hooked up... quite straight forward and my first scan running....





A Few faults flagged up and as i suspected the

19557 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157)
P3101 - 000 - Open or Short to Ground


Looks like ill be swapping out the throttle body after all :-(


This next fault was a bit of a surprise :-s

17055 - Cylinder 1 Glow Plug Circuit (Q10)
P0671 - 000 - Electrical Fault




Wednesday,21,October,2015,12:35:50:33490
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 12.12.3.0 (x64)
Data version: 20140905

VIN:
Mileage: 89241mi Repair Order:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Chassis Type: 8P (1K0)
Scan: 01 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 25 42 44 46 47 52 56 76 7D

Mileage: /89241miles

00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
47-Sound System -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: Malfunction 0010
76-Park Assist -- Status: Malfunction 0010
7D-Aux. Heat -- Status: OK 0000

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 03G-906-016-BKD.lbl
Part No SW: 03G 906 016 FF HW: 028 101 190 5
Component: R4 2,0L EDC 0000SG 7364
Revision: 12345678 Serial number:
Coding: 0000072
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 6CD1B2EB4F09257E575-8039

5 Faults Found:
17054 - Glow Plug Module 1; Glow Plug Circuit
P0670 - 000 - Electrical Malfunction
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 840 /min
Torque: 38.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 14.29 V
Bin. Bits: 11000111
Temperature: 12.6°C
Bin. Bits: 10110000

17055 - Cylinder 1 Glow Plug Circuit (Q10)
P0671 - 000 - Electrical Fault
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 903 /min
Torque: 72.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 14.29 V
Bin. Bits: 11000100
Temperature: 0.0°C
Bin. Bits: 10110000

19557 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157)
P3101 - 000 - Open or Short to Ground
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1176 /min
Torque: 44.0 Nm
Speed: 31.0 km/h
Load: 13.7 %
Voltage: 14.44 V
Bin. Bits: 11000100
Torque: 170.0 Nm
Torque: 72.0 Nm

17075 - Fan 1 Control Circuit
P0691 - 000 - Short to GND
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 1638 /min
Torque: 80.0 Nm
Speed: 41.0 km/h
Load: 21.6 %
Voltage: 14.36 V
Bin. Bits: 11000000
Temperature: 68.4°C
Duty Cycle: 9.6 %

19558 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157)
P3102 - 000 - No Signal
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.16 V
Bin. Bits: 00000100
Torque: 0.0 Nm
Torque: 354.0 Nm

Readiness: 1 2 0 0 0

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1K0-907-379-MK60-F.lbl
Part No SW: 1K0 907 379 Q HW: 1K0 907 379 Q
Component: ESP FRONT MK60 0102
Revision: 00T12001
Coding: 0023170
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 4089365B1301111EDBD-8015

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 8P0-820-043.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 820 043 H HW: 8P0 820 043 H
Component: KlimavollautomatH15 0200
Revision: 198219 Serial number: 8P0820043H
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 316F639FA8AB8896243-8064

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 8P0-907-279-23-H.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 907 279 F HW: 8P0 907 279 F
Component: Bordnetz-SG H36 1201
Revision: 00H36000 Serial number: 00000001974559
Coding: 05884F06A214100000000000000000000008FE175C0100
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 08192
VCID: 4089365B1301111EDBD-8015

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 8P2 955 119 B Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB
Component: Wischer AU350 H01 0130
Coding: 00062736
Shop #: WSC 06314

2 Faults Found:
00906 - Horn (H1)
009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 223
Mileage: 143505 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.10.17
Time: 16:41:00

Freeze Frame:
OFF
Voltage: 12.40 V
OFF
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF

00926 - Terminal 30
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101011
Fault Priority: 4
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 223
Mileage: 143505 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.10.17
Time: 16:41:00

Freeze Frame:
OFF
Voltage: 5.00 V
OFF
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 8P0-959-655-94.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 959 655 H HW: 8P0 959 655 H
Component: Airbag 9.41 H11 3520
Revision: 91H1135 Serial number: 0037W0004JZE
Coding: 0071612
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 479B2D47362F26261A7-8012

Subsystem 1 - Serial number: 63328RB40070C478G

Subsystem 2 - Serial number: 63428RB4006EA606L

Subsystem 3 - Serial number: 63528RB40070C4519

Subsystem 4 - Serial number: 63628RB4006EA685U

Subsystem 5 - Serial number: 63729RB4007AFD5E4

Subsystem 6 - Serial number: 63829RB4007AFCC1+

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 16: Steering wheel Labels: 8P0-953-549.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 953 549 E HW: 8P0 953 549 E
Component: Lenksäulenmodul H34 0070
Coding: 0002012
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 4089365B1301111EDBD-8015

Subsystem 1 - Part No: XXXXXXXXXXX
Component: Lenkradmodul H07 0080

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 17: Instruments Labels: 8P0-920-xxx-17-MY7.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 920 981 B HW: 8P0 920 981 B
Component: KOMBIINSTR. VDO H80 0400
Revision: D02 Serial number: 2245ED02000557
Coding: 0004413
Shop #: WSC 28022 576 90954
VCID: 377B5D8746CF56A66A7-8062

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 1K0-907-530-V1.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 530 D HW: 1K0 907 951
Component: Gateway H08 0100
Revision: 08 Serial number: 25001055268900
Coding: 3D0F0F42070101
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 28598EFB9B71C95EF3D-807D

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 25: Immobilizer Labels: 1K0-920-xxx-25.clb
Part No SW: 8P0 920 981 B HW: 8P0 920 981 B
Component: KOMBIINSTR. VDO H80 0400
Revision: D02 Serial number: AUX7Z0E5FN202D
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 377B5D8746CF56A66A7-8062

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 42: Door Elect, Driver Labels: 8P0-959-801-MIN2.lbl
Part No: 8P0 959 801 H
Component: Tuer-SG 020 0050
Coding: 0000632
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 4089365B1301111EDBD-8015

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 44: Steering Assist Labels: 1Kx-909-14x-44.clb
Part No: 1K2 909 144 J
Component: EPS_ZFLS Kl.5 D04 1606
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 3363699752B7BA8656F-8066

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 8P0-959-433.lbl
Part No: 8P0 959 433
Component: KSG H03 0040
Coding: 198000186D288505489AC63300
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: F9FF1BBFB05B00D65C3-80AC

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1K0 951 605 C
Component: LIN BACKUP HORN H03 1301

Subsystem 2 - Part No: 1K0 907 719 C
Component: Neigungssensor 005 0003

Subsystem 3 - Part No: 8P0 951 177
Component: Innenraumueberw.H03 0020

2 Faults Found:
00926 - Terminal 30
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
00956 - Key 2
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation - Intermittent

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 47: Sound System Labels: 8Px-035-382.lbl
Part No SW: 8P3 035 382 HW: 8P3 035 382
Component: AB2 SUBWOOFERBOXH25 0160
Revision: 00003 Serial number: 10000001258203
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: F0E9269BE321419EEBD-80A5

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 52: Door Elect, Pass. Labels: 8P0-959-802-MIN2.lbl
Part No: 8P0 959 802 H
Component: Tuer-SG 020 0050
Coding: 0000632
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 418F335F180B1816D43-8014

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 56: Radio Labels: 8P0-035-1xx-56.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 035 186 C HW: 8P0 035 186 C
Component: concert II EU H52 0100
Revision: 02S Serial number: AUZ2Z3E2462212
Coding: 0001005
Shop #: WSC 06435 000 00000
VCID: 326D6C93ADADB38E5D9-8067

1 Fault Found:
00858 - Connection; Radio Intermediate Frequency (IF) Output to Antenna
Amplifier
011 - Open Circuit - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101011
Fault Priority: 5
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 202
Mileage: 142896 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.10.02
Time: 17:16:58

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Address 76: Park Assist Labels: 8P0-919-283.lbl
Part No SW: 8P0 919 283 A HW: 8P0 919 283 A
Component: Parkhilfe 4-Kan H09 0010
Revision: 00H09000 Serial number: 00067824820515
Coding: 0000003
Shop #: WSC 06314 000 00000
VCID: 397F5BBF70DB40D69C3-806C

1 Fault Found:
01543 - Parking Aid Warning Chime (H15)
009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101001
Fault Priority: 3
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 219
Mileage: 142855 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2015.10.01
Time: 17:40:56

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Address 7D: Aux. Heat Labels: 1K0-963-235.lbl
Part No SW: 1K0 963 235 E HW: 1K0 963 235 E
Component: PTC-Element 0404
Revision: 00800000 Serial number:
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2D577FEFB493EC7600B-8078

No fault code found.

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------
 
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