My A6 3.0TDi Avant bit of a rebuild and repair thread.

[ajax]

Thanks much guys for your help with the heated seats. My settings seem to be correct, so I ran a little bit more diag with VCDS and it appears that it's the actual panel that is broken or loaded with the wrong software. When I try to switch on seat heating via the Output Test function of the VCDS I get a message "Rejected by control unit". I'll get another panel and see if that fixes it. Another trip to the dealership hmpfh.... (

 

[ajax]

On a better note, I managed to get the entertainment to fade when parking aid is on, which seems to not work for some people

The one thing that I'm still a bit confused about is that my data connection seems only 2G. The 3G icon just never comes on. Is there some modem settings that I need to get right? I assume the unit does not support LTE but 3G should be no problem, right?

Thanks
AJAX

 

[B5NUT]

I also get volume fade on the when the parking aid is on, I wonder if it has to do with having front & rear sensors, as it was always a vcds mod to get the rear only one working on the display!

I get 2G & 3G signals, when was your 5F unit manufactured, could be that some of the early one are 2G only, at a push you could swap out the receiver module on the 5F unit.

 

[ajax]

I guess your unit comes from an A4, A5 or Q7 originally? Mine is originally an A8 unit and it required parametrization to enable the entertainment fade.

The unit is a 4H0 035 670 G so my guess it is around 2011. Which receiver module is the one to get, would you know? I only know it's a Temic module but don't know which one can do 3G. I do get the 3G icon until the unit gets signal. Then it switches to 2G and will never get anything better. Another solution might be tethering through my iPhone.

AJAX

 

[B5NUT]

A 2011 5F module should be fine, you should get both 2 & 3G have you tried a different sim from another provider. I had lots of issues with an o2 data only pay as you go, so switched to a £12 per month contact sim and it's been fine ever since.

You won't be able to use the iphone as it does not support rsap (unless you have a jailbroken iphone)

What firmware are you running at the moment?

 

[ajax]

Yes that's what I thought. I'm on Vodafone data-only SIM, works fine on LTE in my tablet and phone.

It will work with an external USB / Wifi router connected to the MMI.

I'm on 767.

AJAX

 

[B5NUT]

4G is only available on the later nvidia based 3GP systems, which is not compatible with our C6. Your right I'm on 767, 770 was the for C7 A6, A7 & A8.

My MMI system did not like the data only sim card, I could never get a data connection, but got connection & 3G when I put my handset sim in the car. Also like the idea of having a backup phone when I forget my mobile.

 

[ajax]

I would actually be ok with 3G as the only thing available through the online connection is google earth maps and 3G is sufficient for it. 2G is just too slow and by the time the map loads properly I'm already out of the area

 

[RoyC]

I also get volume fade on the when the parking aid is on, I wonder if it has to do with having front & rear sensors, as it was always a vcds mod to get the rear only one working on the display!

On my 2009 3G, you can set the amount of fade when reverse is selected in settings on the mmi.

 

[ajax]

Yes it works on 3G but usually doesn't work on 3GP without parametrization.

AJAX

 

[Lusitano77]

Hello
I just registered on this forum
I am French
I would change my 2G MMI 3G MMI + by my 2007 Audi Q7 but nobody did it on the french forum
Would you agree to help me ...?
I look for parts on ebay.de but I do not know what to choose reference
Can you give me references of all the parts I need to buy ?
For the wiring can help me ?
I'm looking for someone who can help me from beginning to end and I can compensating you if necessary

here is my email address
da.costa_mickael@yahoo.fr
I can give you my mobile number private
and also my facebook address

Thank you

 

[B5NUT]

Responded to your PM, but as stated I just don't have the time at the moment to help complete a full 3GP install.

 

[annodomini2]

Excellent thread!

 

[ajax]

Hi all, I'm back with the seat heating problem. Tried switching A/C units but the problem persists. A friend led me to believe this might be due to the battery management. Right now, I have upgraded to the 20-pin gateway but this is not connected to the alternator. I still have the old BM unit in the boot and there are no errors anywhere, except 01-Engine, which complains about battery management no signal and 19-Gateway, same thing. Could these be related?

Have any of you upgrading to 3G upgraded your alternator and battery management right at the moment of 3g upgrade? I have run my old pre-fl A/C unit which worked fine (even seat heating) but did not show stuff on the MMI screen. As soon as I upgraded the A/C unit, seat heating stopped working...

AJAX

 

[B5NUT]

You need to change the voltage regulator on the alternator, but there are different versions depending on if you have a Valeo, or Bosch alternator. You can tell a FL version as it only has a single pin on the voltage regulator where the old version had two. You then need to disconnect the plug going to the current voltage regulator. One of the wires (don't remember which) goes to the new battery monitor module, then a new wire is run from that module to the can gateway. That will clear all your faults, and should clear up heated seats etc.

Part number of that cable was 8X0915181

 

[ajax]

Thanks B5NUT then it is as I suspected. I bought a whole new alternator, which is newer than mine (same specs) and has the FL voltage regulator. I also have the new cable. Now it's down to having the alternator replaced - a PITA job AFAIK.

Thanks again
AJAX

 

[B5NUT]

How many miles has your old alternator done? You can replace the voltage regulator with the alternator in place and is far easier than replacing it.

I just had to replace my alternator as it failed after 200K miles, it was not a bad job, but getting the alternator out was a bit of a pig as the gearbox pipes get in the way and there is just enough room when pressing the pipes downward to remove the alternator.

Also disconnect the battery as it's way to easy to short the positive cable going to the alternator.

 

[ajax]

My car has 145k miles on it, so I guess replacing the alternator is not a bad idea. I didn't see any room underneath to operate to take the voltage regulator off. Is it really that easy? My info is that the engine has to move to replace the alternator. Also, my car is an Allroad so chances are the air suspension compressor will be in the way.

AJAX

 

[B5NUT]

Not sure on the Allroad comptessor, but I just had to pull the gear box pipes down, you have to remove 2 bolts holding the pipes in place then I got a bit of bar and pulled them downward, would have been easier if there had been someone to do that while I got the alternator out.

 

[ajax]

Interesting, will see if I can do this. The alternator is a straight swap? No coding? I understand I will have to only use one wire going to the battery management unit. I will use the existing second wire and re-route it to the gateway somewhere near the plenum chamber.

AJAX

 

[B5NUT]

There is no coding required for the alternator or regulator swap. Even on the old 2 pin alternator there was only ever a single wire which goes to the old battery monitor, you just need to run a new wire from the battery monitor in the boot to the can-gateway under the dash.

 

[ajax]

Are you sure there is only a single wire going from the boot to the alternator? I remember someone saying thay just tapped the second wire under the engine control unit and re-routed it to the gateway...?

Also, how about mirror heating? Are door control units also affected? Right now, my mirror heating works, or so I think. I hope I won't have to replace the door units as well

Thanks
AJAX

 

[ajax]

Aah, just looked at the wire diagrams and understand how it is done. There is only one wire - going from the battery monitoring unit to the gateway and from there to the alternator. So no second wire from the boot is needed. Good, saved me a bit of dismantling

AJAX

 

[B5NUT]

On pre FL cars there is no wire going from the old battery monitor to the gateway. That is the wire you need to fit.

 

[ajax]

Correct. I'll just make a T-junction off the wire from battery monitor to the alternator somewhere under the dash and extend that wire to the gateway. Should do.

AJAX

 

[B5NUT]

I don't believe that will work, the new battery monitor has two pins on it one goes to the alternator the other to the gateway. Not sure which is which.

 

[ajax]

According to Elsa, it should work. One wire goes to the Gateway and then continues to the alternator (blue wire). The second wire (black/purple) seems to go the fuse box in the luggage compartment... not yet sure where but hopefully I'll find out.

AJAX

 

[ajax]

OK, it seems the second wire connects to the same place as the existing BEM unit's pin 11. So I'll just use that wire.

AJAX

 

[B5NUT]

Been a while since I looked at the wiring diagrams but yes you could tap in from the harness at the front of the car.

 

[ajax]

Interesting problem... I have upgraded the instrument cluster to the facelift version. All coding done, mileage adjusted, CP removed. The instrument cluster is from Germany, though and even though I changed the coding to switch language of the cluster to English (UK), some messages are still in German - mostly error messages like "Steering wheel heating on/off", "Ignition on", "Lights on", etc. Anyone knows how to change this?

Thanks
AJAX

 

[B5NUT]

Have you changed the country in the coding?

 

[riwi]

Hi B5nut. I have a question about something you wrote on page two of this thread. It's about your gateway. Is your new gateway an extended can or a normal one? I can't seem to find out how to recognize the difference. The reason I'm asking this is because I'm thinking about upgrading my mmi 2g to 3G or even 3G+. But I'm also thinking about a high beam assist which needs an extended can.

 

[ajax]

@B5NUT - the country coding is RoW - left-hand drive and does not affect the language, unfortunately.

But to answer my own question.... I have experimented a bit and found out that actually, the language is not set in the Long Coding, despite of what Ross-Tech documentation says. Instrument cluster language is set in Adaptation channel 73. The logic remains the same, though (ie. 0=German, 1=EN UK, 2=EN US, 3=French, etc.).

I also changed channel 77 to 65535 to give me an extra level in the DIS, showing current and average consumption plus mileage left on the same page.

AJAX

 

[ajax]

Hi B5nut. I have a question about something you wrote on page two of this thread. It's about your gateway. Is your new gateway an extended can or a normal one? I can't seem to find out how to recognize the difference. The reason I'm asking this is because I'm thinking about upgrading my mmi 2g to 3G or even 3G+. But I'm also thinking about a high beam assist which needs an extended can.

Here is the list of Extended CAN gateways you can use:

26-pin:
4L0 907 468 A, SW: 4L0 910 468 A
4L0 907 468 C, SW: 4L0 910 468 A

20-pin: (you will need this if you want to go to 3G+)
4F0 907 468 G, SW: 4F0 907 468 G
4F0 907 468 G, SW: 4F0 907 468 L
4F0 907 468 G, SW: 4F0 907 468 N
4F0 907 468 G, SW: 4F0 907 468 Q
4F0 907 468 G, SW: 4F0 907 468 S

You will need at least N revision to go to 3G+. Any previous index of 20-pin gateway can be updated to N by software.

AJAX

 

[riwi]

Here is the list of Extended CAN gateways you can use:

26-pin:
4L0 907 468 A, SW: 4L0 910 468 A
4L0 907 468 C, SW: 4L0 910 468 A

20-pin: (you will need this if you want to go to 3G+)
4F0 907 468 G, SW: 4F0 907 468 G
4F0 907 468 G, SW: 4F0 907 468 L
4F0 907 468 G, SW: 4F0 907 468 N
4F0 907 468 G, SW: 4F0 907 468 Q
4F0 907 468 G, SW: 4F0 907 468 S

You will need at least N revision to go to 3G+. Any previous index of 20-pin gateway can be updated to N by software.

AJAX

Thank a lot Ajax

 

[B5NUT]

My answer was kind of a guess, after a quick look a the label file on ross-tech web site! As ross-tech have encrypted the label files it's difficult to give help on coding issues these days, also when I did my FL cluster retrofit it was a UK unit, so did not have to bother with setting the language.

 

[riwi]

Here is the list of Extended CAN gateways you can use:

26-pin:
4L0 907 468 A, SW: 4L0 910 468 A
4L0 907 468 C, SW: 4L0 910 468 A

20-pin: (you will need this if you want to go to 3G+)
4F0 907 468 G, SW: 4F0 907 468 G
4F0 907 468 G, SW: 4F0 907 468 L
4F0 907 468 G, SW: 4F0 907 468 N
4F0 907 468 G, SW: 4F0 907 468 Q
4F0 907 468 G, SW: 4F0 907 468 S

You will need at least N revision to go to 3G+. Any previous index of 20-pin gateway can be updated to N by software.

AJAX

Hi Ajax, by revision do you mean hardware or software? I found a part with a hardware version which ends with the letter M and the software ends with the letter F. Can I use this part if I'm going down the 3GPlus road? I know the letter M is not in the list you gave me. But the letter M is higher in the alphabet as the letter G. Or is this silly thinking of me?

 

[ajax]

Higher or lower in the alphabet doesn't always mean newer or older. It really depends if M is the software or hardware index. The first is usually hardware and software goes second. 4F0 907 468 M should support 3G+ but does not support Extended CAN (ACC, Lane change, high beam assist, etc.)

AJAX

 

[riwi]

Thanks again for the information.

Yesterday I all most bought this gateway http://shop.autopartsveghel.nl/nl/0...databus-audi-a6-s6-rs6-a6-allroad-q7-bj-07-11. When I asked the garage if they could flash the software for me to N they said that this unit isn't the right one. According to them to only unit that's gonna work is the Q7 26 pin with SW0071.

I would prefer a 26-pin-unit to a 20-pin-unit because than I wouldn't have to change the pins. But a 26-pin-unit wouldn't allow me 3GP and ACC, lane assist etc. which is a must for me. On another forum someone stated that one must use a 20-pin-unit hardware version N (instead of a hardware G in combination with software N)

I'm confused.

 

[RC944]

Another fix today, the passenger door would not open from the outside door handle when the car was first unlocked. It would start to work again if it was opened with the inner door handle. There was also a fault code registered on the passenger side door module.

Just a big thanks for this extensive write-up. I repeated the stated procedure yesterday and touch wood so far so good. A couple of additional points that may be useful for others taking this on

- be sure to have a long bladed philips 2 to remove the armrest screw
- a 12 point torx socket is required to remove the 2 bolts holding the lock mech to the door
- prising the lock mech away from the 2 doors skins takes a lot of patience and i found that 2 irwin mini grips helped
- i found that re-attaching the door release cable to the new mech before installing it helped
- removal of the old glue residue is a real pita!