No sorry, they just come straight out. I did find the screen off/glove box button to be a bit of a sod to removed and when I refitted I used a dremel to sand a bit of the lower part of the switch down as it was catching the trim. An option is to squirt a bit of WD40 around the edges.
I got tired of changing my armrest cradle with every new phone I get. They are pricey and take time to develop, so by the time they become available I'm already a year into using my phone. I decided to go with the Audi Universal Cradle, which gives me USB power and induction GSM signal. Works well for me so far. Here is the link for audi original: http://www.stokeaudi-parts.co.uk/products/Audi-Universal-Phone-Cradle.html Can be found much cheaper on eBay and elsewhere. AJAX
I would also appreciate a copy. I have VCP but the file is not in my library for some reasone Thanks much. AJAX
Thanks. Also, the WD40 did the trick. I was able to push both buttons out after about a minute of spraying them. I cannot believe I wasted two days trying to pull them out with the hooks! Hopefully someone else finds this thread helpful.
Wow - Love this thread. I get my A6 on Saturday and I'm sue I'll refer back to this thread. Congrats on the baby! It's amazing. Having a 6 week old, i know about the "no sleep" cheers G.
Been a while since I did any update to this thread, and still going to put a write-up on the 3GP setup but it's going to have to wait, as I'm about to overhaul the suspension on the car. As my A6 has now reached the 200K mark the hole suspension is just about shot, one of the rear shocks has seized and all the bushes are in bad shape. So this kit finally turned up last week, ordered direct from a German supplier and is was a massive saving over UK prices. It's an Eibach B12 Pro-Kit, I looked at getting Audi genuine shocks & springs again but the cost was over £900 v the £400 price tag of the Eibach. I'm not just doing the shocks & springs but all the arms and bushes. In respect to the arms I'm replacing any that I can get direct lemforder replacements, and the Audi only arms I'm going to just replace the bushes as none of the rear arms have ball joints. All the front arms I'm just going to replace with lemforder.. One of the biggest costs of the rear is the lower axle guide, they are just over £500 each. I got this new one from ebay for £80, and the other I'm still on the hunt for, but I think I'm going to order it from the states, and ship it over, even with the shipping & import duties it's still over £150 cheaper then the UK prices. Another thing that I'm doing is to replace all the nuts & bolts, I hate using all the rusted up bolts and some of them are classed as one time use and should be replaced. So a quick trip down to TPS to pick up this lot. Further update once the weather clears up and I can start stripping the back-end down.
All good. Sent an email to VCP and they added access to all downloads (over 200). They have two versions. One for A6 (4F0910279GtoN.cry) and one for Q7 (4F0910279K_H15_S0240.cry). I don't know what the difference is as both cars use exactly the same BCM but I believe all Q7s came with version "K"? The SGO file they use is 4F0910279_S0240 which is version "R" I believe. I think "4F0910279_S0190" which I believe is version "N" which also supports LED lights.
Started to strip down one corner yesterday afternoon. First problem I ran into was the 19mm hex hub bot. It's torque setting are 200mn & 1/2 a turn, my small 1/2inch breaking bar would not touch this and I did not have a torque wrench that would do 200nm so off to machinemart for a new 3/4 drive breaker bar & new 200nm torque wrench Drive shaft bolt should be slacked off with someone with their foot on the brake and a 1/4 turn with the car on it's wheels, then jack the car up and the bolt can be looseness fully. Next was to remove the wheel arch liner this is held on with 10 screws you will need a T25 screwdriver to remove these. I removed the wheel arch liner to get to the 2 screws for the top shock mount and to see how bad the rust was, and to be fair it was not that bad here are a few photos of the affected area's. This will all have to be stripped back cleaned up and repainted before I but the suspension back on The Next problems I found was this top mount, this looked like it's been destroyed for a few years so I've got no idea how the car passed it's last MOT. I only touched the mount and a big lump of it fell off. It's cracked almost all the way around and the only thing from keeping it in two was the bolts. Replacement upper shock mounts are £45 from Audi or you can buy the Lemforder version for £10 each!!! I've not looked at the other side but have decided to replace both regardless. The other problem I found was the cv boot has been leaking grease, but looking at etka you cannot buy the replacement clip (have to buy the hole cv boot kit at £45) so will removed the other clip which is rotten refill with grease and find 2 new clips that will fit. Post up the strip down details later this evening.
Here is another nice shot of the top mount after I cracked it open, there was that much corrosion it had deformed the metal ring around the bush! More bits arrived on Saturday, now have both lower axle guides. New top shock mounts arrived, purchased Lemforder mounts @ £10 each V Audi OEM price of £48 each. New track rod & coupling rod, again all lemforder. New bearings, got these from ebay discount parts seller they are genuine bearings with a 50% discount. So after I had a chance to give the wheel arch a good scrub the corrosion was a lot worse that I first thought. The worst area was around the brake pipe, and the spring clip you can see in this photo fell apart when I touched it with a wire brush, it was only the corrosion that was holding the pipe in place, Further pictures Before I started with the rust removal the next step was to strip down the suspension. First to be removed was the shock, no picture on this one but there are 2 bolts at the top of the shock, and one at the bottom. The brake caliper was removed along with the pads which were marked up (inner & outer). The disk was then removed, however the screw holding the disc in place had rounded so had to be drilled out.. The disc shield was then removed, but you will have to clean the heads out as they will be filled with crud. Then the calliper mount was removed. The upper bolt is easy enough to get to but the lower bolt is a sod to get to. The bolt holding the track rod to the wheel bearing housing was removed. At this point I put a set of spring compressors on the spring so to make it easer to remove some of the other bolts, sorry don't have any pictures of that but will put some up when I do the other side. Lower anti-roll bar bolt removed. lower bolt holding the headlight level sensor was removed. Upper wishbone bolt going into the wheel bearing housing removed. So here lies the next BIG and I do mean BIG problem. You cannot remove the bolt holding the other end of the wishbone without removing the subframe... As the fuel tank is in the way, if only Audi made the tank a little short in that area it would have saved a hell of a lot of trouble, that is truly a cr@p design. Removing the subframe is a hell of a lot of work for just a single bush, so as much as it pains me that bush will be left alone, and the other bush will be pressed out. Next troublesome bolt was the lower rear axle guide bolt, this fouls against the exhaust, as shown here so you have to drop the exhaust a few inches. First disconnect this nut Then on the side your working on stick a trolly jack under the silencer and remove the two nuts, holding the braking in place. Lower the jack just enough to remove the bolt. (One of the nuts you can just about see near the rubber mount)
Before removing the front axle guide bolt, disconnect the wiring harness going to the ABS sensor. The other bolt holding the front axle in place is also a sod to get to and you will have to remove the rear section of under-tray. You can get a spanner on it from above but there is no room to turn the spanner. So to remove the rear section of the under tray, first remove the 4 torx head screws Then the lower torx head. Once removed you can undo the 10mm plastic nuts holding the rear section in place, you can then get a socket to the nut and remove the lower axle guide. Once removed I could see there was also another leak from the CV boot This was due to the excessive corrosion on the CV joint, this will all have to be removed, and the joint regressed. Other end was not that bad, but will clear the rust and give it a lick of paint. Next was to remove the bolt holding the wheel bearing housing to the axle guide. Due to the corrosion on the other end of the bolt I had to take a breaker bar to it. I then removed the drive shaft it's held in with 6 splined bolts. Sorry no pics of that. With the side now just about stripped the next job was to disconnect the brake line, I had to do this regardless as the spring clip had fully corroded and the only thing holding the pipe in place was the rust. Once removed I started the strip down. I used a wire wheel brush on a grinder. Once clear of the thick rust and remove any bubbling paint work I covered the arch in deox gel, this stuff is very good but don't let it dry, I left it over night as it was raining on and off and covered it in cling film to help stop it dry. There is no big problem if it does dry, it just stops working as a rust remover. This morning I washed the deox gel off and clean the under panel with with panel wipe prior to painting. To start with I've used Pro15, this is what hammerite used to be like before they removed all of the nasty chemicals. It also mixes well with stonechip & 2-pack paint, which I will also be using. If you using this stuff make sure you wear the right gear like a face mask and gloves. Also wear hat & eye protection as you will be looking up at the wheel arch, and por15 is a ****** to get out of your hair! So after 2 coats of Por15 this is where I'm at. There are a few paint runs and it's not perfect but I'm never going to see this as it's covered with the wheel arch liner so I'm not that bothered. about drips & runs...
With regards to the bolt in the picture is it not possible to cut the head off with "cold" cutting method, given proximity to tank. Hacksaw or sawsall? Then drift out remaining part of bolt. Then install bolt the other way around on re-assembly, so that nut is in the area with resticted space?. This was common problem and fix on passat front arms.
There are only 3 nuts you have to remove to drop the exhaust out of the way so not worth the effort. The bolt will not fit the other way as the nut is part of the subframe.
Ah ok fair enough, i remmember pulling my hair out with similar situation on passat, only to find a how to guide, showed cutting bolt and replaceing the other way round. Wondered if it was similar problem.
OK, got the file from VCP but how do I apply this? The Flasher option is greyed out when I access the Central Electrics module and in Multiflasher it says that update failed. Anybody managed to update this unit? Thanks AJAX
I did not use Multiflasher, I accessed Central Electrics then under advanced options selected flasher
Mmm yeah that's what I thought.. But my Flasher button is greyed out... Will have to ask VCP guys again... Thanks AJAX
Have you tried security access before trying to flash the module. I don't think it's that but worth a try. Security Access 12151 = General Adaptation "Enabling"
So, no luck. Pretty much all other units have the Flasher feature available... all except the Onboard Supply unit... very odd AJAX
Here it is: Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 4F0-910-279.lbl Part No SW: 4F0 910 279 J HW: 4F0 907 279 A Component: ILM Fahrer H18 0250 Revision: 00000000 Serial number: 4F0907279 Coding: 0112121 Shop #: WSC 31414 790 00001 VCID: 306573F1A34782BEE6-8065 Subsystem 1 - Part No: 4F1 910 113 C Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB Component: Wischer AudiC6 H05 0210 Coding: 00064784 Shop #: WSC 31414 Subsystem 2 - Part No: 4E0 910 557 B Labels: 8K0-955-559.CLB Component: REGENLICHTSENSORH13 0100 Coding: 00146221 Shop #: WSC 31414 No fault code found.
I wish I'd read this thread earlier, I have a set of A6 4F facelift headlights with AFS, bulbs and all modules for sale for £400
POWERED TAILGATE [QUOTE="B5NUT, One thing to note even if your module accepts the coding, only the following modules actually support the electric tailgate function and these are. 4F0907289B 4F0910289B 4F0910289L 4F0910289K If you don't have one of these modules then the power latch won't work and the only way to electrically close the tailgate is via VCDS..[/QUOTE] Does this apply to all models, pre Fl and Facelift ? My Avant is a 2009 with unit - Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 4F0-910-289.lbl Part No SW: 4F0 910 289 J HW: 4F0 907 289 J Component: Komfortgeraet H27 0220 Revision: 02200027 Serial number: 01166766660000 Coding: 0140027 Shop #: WSC 02335 785 00200 VCID: 31633ADEA85063A9D05-8064 Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1K0 951 605 C Component: LIN BACKUP HORN H03 1301 Subsystem 2 - Part No: 4F0 910 177 Component: Innenraumueberw.H01 0020 No fault code found.
Yes you will need the K version, only real difference between the Pre-FL & FL version, is the Pre-FL version cannot communicate to the voltage regulator on the can-gateway, it will only communicate to the old 61 module. Make sure you get the K version as the older version as not compatible with your car. There is also an N revision, but I don't know if that as the tailgate function. Kufatec also states the B&K version is required. https://www.kufatec.co.uk/shop/en/audi/a6/a6-4f/electronic-hatch-harness-audi-a6-4f However I found that the L version also worked.
Thanks for this information. As far as you know, is this K version a straight swap for my J version and everything will work OK and are the new K versions component protected?
It's a straight swap, it would just need coding and component protection removed. When I retrofit 3GP I had to replace the can gateway with a FL version so had to get rid of the voltage regulator module (61) when I did this I got an error message on the B revision module I had, so replaced this with a K revision and a
It's a straight swap, it would just need coding and component protection removed. When I retrofit 3GP I had to replace the can gateway with a FL version so had to get rid of the voltage regulator module (61) when I did this I got an error message on the B revision module about a coms error to module 61 so I had to replaced this with a FL K revision and all is working well with no errors.
So it's done, I have upgraded to MMI 3GP in my Allroad 4F. Most of the things are working fine just have a few bits to fix. One thing I noticed, though, is seat heating does not work anymore. I am suspecting this might be due to the 5F unit coding ?? When I press the seat heating button on the AC panel, the graphics appear but turning the knob does not do anything, seat heating stays at 0. AC temperature and all other functions of the AC work fine. Can any of you guys who have upgraded take a look for me as to how your 5F unit is coded? There are 2 or 3 places where seat heating can be coded under Car in the Green menu. One of these is Bus assignment. My understanding is that seat heating should be under CAN Comfort but I am not sure. Any hints? Thanks AJAX
Will take a look at my coding/green menu and post back. I take it you either have a FL model or you fitted the FL climate control panel?
Here are the two places that I found the headed seat options, I can confirm that mine are working as they should do.
I have heated seats in my 2009. This is my 5F Address 5F: Information Electr. (J794) Labels: 4E0-035-6xx-5F.clb Part No SW: 4E0 035 652 A HW: 4E0 035 652 Component: B-BN-EU H47 0048 Revision: -------- Serial number: 349A-097506098 Coding: 010101010102C3FD43000F0DEF7300030001 Shop #: WSC 00779 210 97010 VCID: 1F47CC660EC4E5D9775-804A Subsystem 1 - Part No SW: 4L0 919 604 HW: 4L0 919 604 Component: DU6 Basic H43 0306 Subsystem 2 - Part No SW: 4F0 910 609 E HW: 4F2 919 611 H Component: Bedienteil MM H01 0060
