My A6 3.0TDi Avant bit of a rebuild and repair thread.
- Thread starter B5NUT
- Start date
Regarding the MMI setup
Would it be possible to retrofit 3g+ in an RS6 4F ? Could DRC dynamic ride control settings be activated in hidden settings menu?
And if DRC settings is possible are there any other stuff that might not be possible to get 100% working?
Thank you for your help!
Would it be possible to retrofit 3g+ in an RS6 4F ? Could DRC dynamic ride control settings be activated in hidden settings menu?
And if DRC settings is possible are there any other stuff that might not be possible to get 100% working?
Thank you for your help!
I'm sure I've read somewhere that there are issues with the RS6. The software on the MMI 3GP units are from the Q7 model, as that is the only one that is compatible with the C6 range, air suspension does work, but the DRC suspension was never an option on the Q7, so I don't believe the software is there to control the DRC system. If you have VCDS then you may be able to change the setting, but not the best of workarounds.
I dont't think it will help with VCDS if it is not in the software. But when watching MMI youtube clips from hidden menus it seems that there is possibility to choose both model series like C6 and type of car. The 3gp looks to be setup for different platforms, would you mind to take a look in your hidden menu? Since there is C6 possibility in menu and there wasn't a Q7 C6?
There is no C6 option in MMI 3GP, to make the 3GP system compatible with the C6 range you have to run the Q7 software as that uses the same can-gateway protocols & speeds as the C6. C7 units are not compatible as they use different high speed can gateway protocols.
SD Card slots
Higher resolution screen
DVD playback using the inbuilt DVD drive, and full control of the playback
Hard disk for storage of Maps and music (Optional)
SD Card slots
Sim card slot (optional)
AMI Inbuilt into the Main MMI module only a cable is required much cheaper than the 2G option.
Telephone inbuilt into the main MMI module. Only need the microphone, so a lot cheaper that the 2G retrofit
MMI 3G firmware is still being updated by Audi
Full postcode possible but needs a special firmware update.
Latest MAPs and firmware available FOC if you dig around for the information
3D maps also look very cool...
I'm also going to be looking at 3G+ Update which would require replacing the 5F unit, that would give the very latest MMI interface and you can play movies VIA the SD cards
Hey, me again,
I'd like to do the update u have done and it's all a little hi-tec as I won't be doing this myself if I decide to go ahead with the retro fit. I'm gonna upload a pic off the kufatec site can u tell me if I'm on the right track please??
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That is the old 2G setup, I don't think kufatec sell a 3G retrofit kit for the C6, I would email them directly and see if they can help.
Thanks for the great instructions and photos B5NUT and others.
I have been stripping off my intakes to clean the EGR, but I too can't lift the EGR & Cooler off and so after googling came upon your thread.
If I cut the pipe that is denoted with the red arrow and buy a new one I am worried that I won't be able to get it back on and clamp the hose clip do you have any advice? It's just as it stands now I can give up and put it back together but if I cut that and still can't lift it up then I am snookered.
Also the pipe at the opposte end no.22 is that a problem? It seems as though I can't get the bracket to lift because this pipe and it's pipe clip forks through it - or is the pipe supposed to lift off with the hold assembly.
This job is turning out many times harder than expected, such a puzzle.
I found my EGR cooler bypass valvle inside no.38 had broken off the shaft and just jumping around!
Thanks!
I have been stripping off my intakes to clean the EGR, but I too can't lift the EGR & Cooler off and so after googling came upon your thread.
If I cut the pipe that is denoted with the red arrow and buy a new one I am worried that I won't be able to get it back on and clamp the hose clip do you have any advice? It's just as it stands now I can give up and put it back together but if I cut that and still can't lift it up then I am snookered.
Also the pipe at the opposte end no.22 is that a problem? It seems as though I can't get the bracket to lift because this pipe and it's pipe clip forks through it - or is the pipe supposed to lift off with the hold assembly.
This job is turning out many times harder than expected, such a puzzle.
I found my EGR cooler bypass valvle inside no.38 had broken off the shaft and just jumping around!
Thanks!
Once you have the EGR cooler removed then it's easy to remove the pipe, just make sure you remove the screw just below the red arrow.
The other side will be a little stiff to remove as there will be corrosion. It's very unlikely you will be able to reuse the old o-rings (24 & 28) so I would get new ones on order.
The other side will be a little stiff to remove as there will be corrosion. It's very unlikely you will be able to reuse the old o-rings (24 & 28) so I would get new ones on order.
Cheers chap. Thanks for the fast reply. I have sacrificed the said pipe with the red arrow. Yes lots move movement now.
Very stuck at the opposite end. I cut that pipe too just to get a better view. I assumed he metal union stay captive in the bracket and pulls out of the engine so used a crow bar against some rubber padding. It came out and then 10 mins of wiggling this way, removing the oil filter and cap and then it came out. Big Thanks!!
Very stuck at the opposite end. I cut that pipe too just to get a better view. I assumed he metal union stay captive in the bracket and pulls out of the engine so used a crow bar against some rubber padding. It came out and then 10 mins of wiggling this way, removing the oil filter and cap and then it came out. Big Thanks!!
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They were difficult to remove, and even after cutting the pipe the little one takes an age to remove. Audi have revised the pipe however even that pipe was a sod to remove after only a year in place. It's not a great design.
Sotirov
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Hi, I can help. I like and the procedure for conversion of units from 3gp mmi audi a8 in Q7?
Hello B5NUT, I have just real your thread. Amazing job. Could you please help me with a retrofit for my car Audi A6 Avant 2010? I would like to replace my halogen headlight with xenon including LED DRL.
I have already purchased D3S headlights and ballast. My Cent. Elect is 4F0 910 279 N. I have read something about the need of extra wires from the lights to the Cent. Elect but still not found any wire diagram how this could be made. So I have some open questions.
1.How to connect the LED DRL contacts to the Cent. Elect. Is there some kufatec kit?
2. Will my existing Cent. Elect support these xenon lights with the LED DLR?
3. Will the light leveling be working with the manual setting knob that is now used for the halogen lights?
4. How can I test the LED DRL on the headlight? I guys I will need some pulse wide modulated signal to set the brightness level of the LEDs. Is there some other possibility?
Thank you very much!!
I have already purchased D3S headlights and ballast. My Cent. Elect is 4F0 910 279 N. I have read something about the need of extra wires from the lights to the Cent. Elect but still not found any wire diagram how this could be made. So I have some open questions.
1.How to connect the LED DRL contacts to the Cent. Elect. Is there some kufatec kit?
2. Will my existing Cent. Elect support these xenon lights with the LED DLR?
3. Will the light leveling be working with the manual setting knob that is now used for the halogen lights?
4. How can I test the LED DRL on the headlight? I guys I will need some pulse wide modulated signal to set the brightness level of the LEDs. Is there some other possibility?
Thank you very much!!
1. You will need wiring adapters https://www.kufatec.de/shop/en/audi/a6/a6-4f/xenon-hid-headlights-adapter-audi-a6-4f
2. N revision should be fine.
3. No manual will not work, also xenon lights should have self-leveling & headlight washers (UK requirement) https://www.kufatec.de/shop/en/audi/a6/a6-4f/auto-leveling-headlights-retrofit-audi-a6-4f
4. No idea if you what to play around with the brightness, it may also cause bulb warning failures if you fitted something like that.
Hope that helps.
2. N revision should be fine.
3. No manual will not work, also xenon lights should have self-leveling & headlight washers (UK requirement) https://www.kufatec.de/shop/en/audi/a6/a6-4f/auto-leveling-headlights-retrofit-audi-a6-4f
4. No idea if you what to play around with the brightness, it may also cause bulb warning failures if you fitted something like that.
Hope that helps.
Great, thank you! For #4 I just wanted to test the functionality of the headlights because they are used parts. But so far I had not found any instruction how to connect the headlight connector pins to light up the LED DRL.
Sorry don't have the wiring diagrams to hand at the moment, but I think you just need to supply 12v to the lights.
mik15
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hi mate, any time left for you to post some info on the 3G+ upgrade 
? would love to be able to do that on my car as well, i own a 2011 Allroad and am thinking of getting the 3g+ after reading your exceptionally well documented thread here, however i am not sure whether all i would need is a Q7 CAN gateway and if any wiring is required....
thanks a lot for all the info you've shared and the inspiration you've given us
? would love to be able to do that on my car as well, i own a 2011 Allroad and am thinking of getting the 3g+ after reading your exceptionally well documented thread here, however i am not sure whether all i would need is a Q7 CAN gateway and if any wiring is required....thanks a lot for all the info you've shared and the inspiration you've given us
Sorry I just don't have time at the moment, preparing my old A4 B5 for sale, working on the house & looking after a 2 year old... should have some time once my C7 has been delivered & my old A4 B5 next month..
Sounds like you need some staff! You could start your own Darlington Downton Abbey?
Loving your patience and attention to detail.
Ever thought about building a Kit car.
Just picked up my first A6 at the weekend, and I'm going to do some of your suggestions used in this thread.
When you used the clay bar , did you spray water on the paint or is it some other solution.
Brad.
Ever thought about building a Kit car.
Just picked up my first A6 at the weekend, and I'm going to do some of your suggestions used in this thread.
When you used the clay bar , did you spray water on the paint or is it some other solution.
Brad.
I used a Kock-Chemie quick detailer & clay bar, got everything from these people who are also the UK distributor for swissvax. http://1kapproved.co.uk/item/koch-chemie-uk-limited/
Never have to time to play around with a kit car + Mrs won't be happy with me getting another car. But thinking about it it would have been nice if Audi could have shipped all the parts for my new C7, that would have been a fun build.
Never have to time to play around with a kit car + Mrs won't be happy with me getting another car. But thinking about it it would have been nice if Audi could have shipped all the parts for my new C7, that would have been a fun build.
Hi B5nut.
My a6 still has the first firmware and maps installed on the 3g hdd.
I was going to update them both using your suggestions.
Been looking on the net, but struggling to find best place to download the updates. Where did you get yours from.
Thanks
Brad.
My a6 still has the first firmware and maps installed on the 3g hdd.
I was going to update them both using your suggestions.
Been looking on the net, but struggling to find best place to download the updates. Where did you get yours from.
Thanks
Brad.
This is one of the sites I use the others have restricted membership for the moment. http://www.digital-eliteboard.com/
Not done much to the A6 over the last few months, as some will know I decided to reject my new C7 which took a total of 3 months to complete, then another 2 months to get a replacement C7 ordered. Still in the end it all turned out for the best, and the replacement car thankfully has been faultless, as I don't think I could have handled another rejection!.
So another option I wanted on the C6 was the reversing camera, it's on my C7 and it's very usefull. So got the parts over the last few weeks and set about fitting it.
Parts required
Camera Control module (4F0910441D)
Mount for camera control module (Not essential module could be put anywhere)
Tailgate boot grip with camera mount
Camera
Power cable (2core) from control module to camera.
Power Cable (2core) to fuse box & ground
2 wires to connect to the convenience can-bus
Control Head with FBAS connector (MMI 2G ONLY)
Fakra cable from camera module to camera
Fakra cable from Control module to control head
Fakra cable from Control module to TV Tuner (If TV is fitted & MMI 2G ONLY)
First was to run a fakra cable from the front to the back of the car, this is required for 3G MMI systems, and on 2G MMi system if you don't have TV installed.
One other thing to note for 2G MMI users if you don't have TV then your car will not have FBAS, it's the green connector on the control head shown below. The Control head is behind the glove box so you will have to remove that. You will also need to remove the glovebox on the 3G system as it will be easier to run the cables.
FBAS connector on a 2G MMI control head
Pinout of the 5F connector and where the Fakra cables goes.
To start with the Fakra cable was run along the bottom of the interior on the passenger side and then ran along the bottom of the boot into the space below the fuses on the right hand side of the boot.
Picture of the cable ran in and the jack & tool holders removed. From looking at etka there should have been 2 mounting lugs just behind the parking brake module shown in the picture below but these were not present on my car.
As my mounting lugs were missing I used an epoxy glue to secure a plastic plate to the chassis, then secured the mount to the plastic plate.
Next was to strip down the tailgate, first by removing the warning triangle, and then the access covers for the rear tail
Remove the 6 screws holding the tailgate trim panel in place, once the screw are removed you then need to pull the trim downwards if it's never been off before then it can be a bit of a sod to remove.
You also need to remove the trim panel lights
Next is to remove the trim around the rear windscreen, it's held in place by a torx screw either side and clipped in place
To remove the hinge cover it just unclips from the inner edge.
Once the tailgate is stripped I moved onto the rear roof trim, you just need to remove the boot light fitting first, so you can access the screw holding the trim panel in place. The trim can then be removed by pulling trim away from the car.
When the rear roof trim is removed you need to pull down the drivers side D pillar trim, it does not need to be removed just pulled down enough to run the cables down. You just need to remove the 2 screw holding it in place and the plastic clip
The power harness and Fakra cable was then run to the tailgate, secured to the original harness.
So another option I wanted on the C6 was the reversing camera, it's on my C7 and it's very usefull. So got the parts over the last few weeks and set about fitting it.
Parts required
Camera Control module (4F0910441D)
Mount for camera control module (Not essential module could be put anywhere)
Tailgate boot grip with camera mount
Camera
Power cable (2core) from control module to camera.
Power Cable (2core) to fuse box & ground
2 wires to connect to the convenience can-bus
Control Head with FBAS connector (MMI 2G ONLY)
Fakra cable from camera module to camera
Fakra cable from Control module to control head
Fakra cable from Control module to TV Tuner (If TV is fitted & MMI 2G ONLY)
First was to run a fakra cable from the front to the back of the car, this is required for 3G MMI systems, and on 2G MMi system if you don't have TV installed.
One other thing to note for 2G MMI users if you don't have TV then your car will not have FBAS, it's the green connector on the control head shown below. The Control head is behind the glove box so you will have to remove that. You will also need to remove the glovebox on the 3G system as it will be easier to run the cables.
FBAS connector on a 2G MMI control head
Pinout of the 5F connector and where the Fakra cables goes.
To start with the Fakra cable was run along the bottom of the interior on the passenger side and then ran along the bottom of the boot into the space below the fuses on the right hand side of the boot.
Picture of the cable ran in and the jack & tool holders removed. From looking at etka there should have been 2 mounting lugs just behind the parking brake module shown in the picture below but these were not present on my car.
As my mounting lugs were missing I used an epoxy glue to secure a plastic plate to the chassis, then secured the mount to the plastic plate.
Next was to strip down the tailgate, first by removing the warning triangle, and then the access covers for the rear tail
Remove the 6 screws holding the tailgate trim panel in place, once the screw are removed you then need to pull the trim downwards if it's never been off before then it can be a bit of a sod to remove.
You also need to remove the trim panel lights
Next is to remove the trim around the rear windscreen, it's held in place by a torx screw either side and clipped in place
To remove the hinge cover it just unclips from the inner edge.
Once the tailgate is stripped I moved onto the rear roof trim, you just need to remove the boot light fitting first, so you can access the screw holding the trim panel in place. The trim can then be removed by pulling trim away from the car.
When the rear roof trim is removed you need to pull down the drivers side D pillar trim, it does not need to be removed just pulled down enough to run the cables down. You just need to remove the 2 screw holding it in place and the plastic clip
The power harness and Fakra cable was then run to the tailgate, secured to the original harness.
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So this is the home made harness that I've run into the car.
Wiring is somewhat simple
PIN 39 - Convenience CAN LOW - Tap into wire (orange/brown) on convenience module
PIN 40 - Convenience CAN HI - Tap into wire (orange/green) on convenience module
PIN 43 - module +ve
PIN 44 - module -ve
PIN 47 - camera -ve
PIN 48 - camera +ve
For the Fakra cable these are as follows.
Brown= FBAS input from TV tuner -R78- (MMI 2G)
Green = FBAS output (green) to control Head (MMI 2G) and 5F module (MMI 3G)
Grey = FBAS input (grey) from reversing camera
These are the two wires orange/brown & orange green wires that were tapped into for the can-bus signals
For power to the module I did not have any spare slots in the fuse holder which already had a power connector and I hate tapping into other power cables, So I made up this cable
This goes from power distribution to a spare in the fuse holder
The + cable from the camera module is then ran into fuse holder
For the earth point on the module I used this location, you can just about access this point without having to remove the trim panel.
Once the Wiring was done the next job was to fit the new tailgate grab handle with the camera mount
You cannot fit the mount with the camera in place, the old grip is removed and is held in place with 4 nuts, and once these are removed you need to remove the metal covers shown in the photo bellow.
Once the new grip is fitted the camera can be installed clamp to secure the camera put in place and the Fakra & power cables can be connected.
I secured the Fakra & power cables to the cars original harness
Camera fitted
Final job before putting the car back together is the code the car and test the camera, so the module was fitted into the holder all plugs connected and fuse was fitted and coding started.
First is the can-gateway enable/select 6C
Next enable the camera on the Park assist module
Then to code the camera module, my module came from an A6 Avant so already had the correct coding and there is no component protection on the module
You need to access module 6C
Final coding is on the MMI system, since I have MMI 3GP these are the two options I enabled in the green menu, these will be different on 3G systems and I'll try and find the options for that system.
For MMI 2G you need to go into controller 07 then adaptation
Select channel 001 and add 32768 to your current value
At this point you can clear any fault codes from the gateway and camera module, however you may not be able to clear the fault code for the calibration required, as I never change the coding on my module I never got this fault code, however even with this code the camera will work as normal, it's just the lines that move with the steering may not be 100% accurate. You can find the calibration graphic online and you can try yourself.
Your local Audi Dealer will also be able to get the calibration done but at their usual cost.
Once you have tested the camera you can put the car back together and be happy the knowledge that your better half will find in less likely to reverse into post!!!
Wiring is somewhat simple
PIN 39 - Convenience CAN LOW - Tap into wire (orange/brown) on convenience module
PIN 40 - Convenience CAN HI - Tap into wire (orange/green) on convenience module
PIN 43 - module +ve
PIN 44 - module -ve
PIN 47 - camera -ve
PIN 48 - camera +ve
For the Fakra cable these are as follows.
Brown= FBAS input from TV tuner -R78- (MMI 2G)
Green = FBAS output (green) to control Head (MMI 2G) and 5F module (MMI 3G)
Grey = FBAS input (grey) from reversing camera
These are the two wires orange/brown & orange green wires that were tapped into for the can-bus signals
For power to the module I did not have any spare slots in the fuse holder which already had a power connector and I hate tapping into other power cables, So I made up this cable
This goes from power distribution to a spare in the fuse holder
The + cable from the camera module is then ran into fuse holder
For the earth point on the module I used this location, you can just about access this point without having to remove the trim panel.
Once the Wiring was done the next job was to fit the new tailgate grab handle with the camera mount
You cannot fit the mount with the camera in place, the old grip is removed and is held in place with 4 nuts, and once these are removed you need to remove the metal covers shown in the photo bellow.
Once the new grip is fitted the camera can be installed clamp to secure the camera put in place and the Fakra & power cables can be connected.
I secured the Fakra & power cables to the cars original harness
Camera fitted
Final job before putting the car back together is the code the car and test the camera, so the module was fitted into the holder all plugs connected and fuse was fitted and coding started.
First is the can-gateway enable/select 6C
Next enable the camera on the Park assist module
Then to code the camera module, my module came from an A6 Avant so already had the correct coding and there is no component protection on the module
You need to access module 6C
Final coding is on the MMI system, since I have MMI 3GP these are the two options I enabled in the green menu, these will be different on 3G systems and I'll try and find the options for that system.
For MMI 2G you need to go into controller 07 then adaptation
Select channel 001 and add 32768 to your current value
At this point you can clear any fault codes from the gateway and camera module, however you may not be able to clear the fault code for the calibration required, as I never change the coding on my module I never got this fault code, however even with this code the camera will work as normal, it's just the lines that move with the steering may not be 100% accurate. You can find the calibration graphic online and you can try yourself.
Your local Audi Dealer will also be able to get the calibration done but at their usual cost.
Once you have tested the camera you can put the car back together and be happy the knowledge that your better half will find in less likely to reverse into post!!!
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More information if you need to calibrate the camera. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Audi_A4_(8K)_Back-Up_Camera#Special_Procedures.
Also the found information on coding of the MMI 3G module, select 5F module in VCDS and go into the long coding, select BYTE 7 and turn on bit 1, that should enable the camera on FL MMI 3G systems.
Also the found information on coding of the MMI 3G module, select 5F module in VCDS and go into the long coding, select BYTE 7 and turn on bit 1, that should enable the camera on FL MMI 3G systems.
Thanks for the help, last week I have tested the headlights, but unfortunately one of the DRLs was not working.
Could I ask you another thing ... I am planing to retrofit the electronic tailgate and I am not sure if my Central Conv. (46) will support it or not: 4F0 910 289 N.
Just check with etka and from the looks of things the N revision does support the electric tailgate feature, think you would need the 4F0 910 289 K module.
