Most Reliable VAG Engine?

TitaniumTom

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Morning all,

I'm just wondering what the most reliable VAG engine is? I know some people will say 'mines been fine' but over all, we know the BKD and ARL engines are known for major engine faults for example...and the 1.4 TSI cam chain faults, 1.8TFSI oil issues etc... So which is best overall? I bought the A3 in a rush after too many faults on my Focus, and while it's a nice car, I'll be looking to upgrade to something newer in a few months time, most likely VAG again though, but need something I can rely on.

Cheers
Tom
 
BKD doesn't even have the 77mm oil pump drive issue !

Probably the old VE's in the A4 B5 and PD in the B6 .
 
Just keep reading the forums of the model you are interested in, they are a good indication of engine & gearbox issues.
 
Anything pre-PD or anything up to 2005 imo even though my 1.9 BLS now has 210k on it without any sort of catastrophic conrod failures!
 
Just keep reading the forums of the model you are interested in, they are a good indication of engine & gearbox issues.

I've been doing this...it's just shown that every engine has potentially bad issues so far... :laughing: I'm not too fussed which model atm which is why I didn't put this in a specific section.

Are there any modern engines that are reliable? Talking 2010 onwards? I'm always unlucky and seem to get the common faults occurring on any car I buy, so trying to find the engine with the least common faults as a good starting point to deciding which model to go for.
 
Apologies If I sound like I'm being deliberately awkward (don't mean to be), but is basing your choice on what engine is most reliable not a slightly inefficient way to look for a new car?

Is it not better to decide on what kind of car you'd like (size, shape, spec, fast or slow, good on fuel etc.) and take it from there.

My tuppence worth - As with most modern engines, all VAG engines currently available are pretty decent, however none are perfect and they do all have their own specific problems, especially if not taken care of properly. I'd argue your risk of buying a nail is just as high with a 1.4 TFSI as it is with a 3.0 TDI.
 
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I reckon the 2.0 TDi from 2006 onwards would take some beating. I've had three of these and driven over 200k in them, only issue I had was a leak in the coolant in an A3. That can't be bad?
 
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I'd rather not tempt fate by making any smart comments here, but, if you like a car with slightly sporting mannerisms, maybe try out an S4?
 
So the 2.0TDI on the B7 A4 model was a total TFD in respect the oil pump design, and the S4 can have chain issue's and the 1.8 N/A & turbo had cam tensioner issues (did on mine).

It depends on the model & age you are looking at.
 
Not all 2.0 TDI had oil pump problems mines a bre on 240k
 
One of these will live forever, this is my daily driver, 1996 Passat 1.9 TDI with the older VE. I have my nice car for the weekend, driving an old beater makes you appreciate the modern car more :) Does exactly what it says on the tin and does a legit 80mpg :)

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Before I bought it I checked on the ve Audi forum I don't think mines chain driven pump
 
Chain , geared , and geared common rail all can be the inferior 77mm up to 2010 , so A4 B8 also affected .
 
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What is 'it' ?

2007 was the end of chain driven 77mm , one less issue with a chain tentioner but the continuation of hex drive balancer shaft keyway issue .
 
Millions of 2.0 TDI engines used across the World, across the VAG range and across vans and commercial vehicles. They have larger oil sumps in the commercial vehicles and thus hold more oil. They aren't all suffering from oil pump issues. Forums tend to magnify problems
 
Forums also contain ostriches !


It's basic engineering as to why the 77mm is inadequate , the key would be OK if it were in an actual hexagonal bore , in deep enough and the balancer shaft keyway was harder
( aftermarket are chrome vanadium and deeper ).

Oem have just 15mm of actual keyway contact length .


Oem partially adressed this with a longer 100mm key with 30mm contact and one to my knowledge has yet to fail , 23mm and 15mm changes are massive in engineering terms .

Aftermarket further made bullet proof by an actual hexagonal bore chrome vanadium keyway insert starting a little earlier so 38-40mm contact length / surface area .
 
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My BRD 2.0 TDi 170 suffered oil pump drive failure at 100k. Now replaced with modified drive, new oil pump and new turbo. I see a lot of these 2.0 TDi 140 & 170 with very high mileages so hopefully that's the main issue sorted and it has a long life ahead :)
 
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Mines pd140 got a mind of it's own week after week it was I the garage
 
Thanks for the replies guys, that's much more the sort of info I was after! :)

I (wrongly) assumed the engines were the same across the platform, so all 2.0 TDI 140s would have the same issues for example.

Model wise it'll probably be an A3 or Golf post ~2010. But I'm open to anything within budget and distance, was looking at an A6 last week that was surprisingly cheap. Reliabilty, spec and comfort is more important to me than speed these days, but I want something with sporty looks as well.

As said above I'm always unlucky and get common faults on every engine I try...cam and lifter failure plus DMF on 1.9 PD130, headgasket on TU3, injectors and DPF on DV6, EGR on Z19DTH etc etc lol.

With diesels always costing more in parts than the tax and mpg saving I'm open to petrols...1.4TSi for example, but would need the reliability to make it work.
 
I had a 2007 non DPF Jetta with the 140 BKD engine, remapped by darkside developments from 80k died at 259k, turbo went which was the original unit so not bad serviced when it was due and only thing I done was a clutch and removed the EGR because it was on its way out.

I now have a 2011 A6 C7 2.0tdi 177 remapped by Revo. I purchased this with 100k. It now has 219k on the clock. It is starting to get the sticky VNT but again original turbo.
 
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Mine had sticky vnt when I bought first thing I had done mines on about 240k at the moment not mapped although it reeks of diesel after flooring it or even normal parking up getting out and it stinks
 
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Mine had sticky vnt when I bought first thing I had done mines on about 240k at the moment not mapped although it reeks of diesel after flooring it or even normal parking up getting out and it stinks

I did do the mr muscle trick which worked for around 10k but then came back. I really should of done a terraclean that might of cured it for a few more thousand miles.
 
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Thinking about the mr muscle but didn't most say with a terra clean it doesn't help
 
Thinking about the mr muscle but didn't most say with a terra clean it doesn't help

I’m not sure I can’t see it working to great As the car runs off it so can’t be to potent.