Mk1 TT 225 track day car, Officially a ten second car 10.8 seconds at 127 mph.

[desertstorm]

Been preparing a few things for the gearbox install when it gets warmer in a few months. The Steering wheel I bought I made an aluminium plate for the front to mount the race mode / push to pass switches and the horn. Covered it in some Black Sticky back plastic rather than paint it.
Looks OK and is functional, My Aliexpress stick on paddle extensions arrived from China, So fitted them.

Had to do some fiddling with the paddles to get them working with Ignitron as the paddles aren't just a switch they have resistors built into them . Not easy to get them apart and I didn't want to break them so made up a small PCB with a 5v regulator and some resistors /capacitors to do some level shifting. This works fine now and the ECU sees both Paddles will generate the CAN messages to the gearbox. The paddle switches have LED's in that I have powered up when ever the ignition is on.







The gearbox doesn't put out oil temp on the CAN bus for the ECU to read and as I would like to keep an eye on this added a cheap 150 degree oil temp sensor to the alloy filter housing. This has an 1/8 NPT thread but M10X1 is very close and fits fine, so fitted the sensor.

Temp sensor is a VAG item for 150 degree oil temperature gauges. Found the calibration data and then using this site
calculated the values outside the normal 50-150 degree range.
1H0919563
https://daycounter.com/.../Steinhart-Hart-Thermistor...
Temp resistance (ohms)
0 - 3061
10 - 1832
20 - 1135
30 - 726
40- 478
50 - 323
60 -223
70- 158
80 -113
90- 83
100- 62
110- 48
120 - 37
130- 30
140 - 23
150- 18
Used the spare resistance input on pin 26 and connected the sensor there. With the wire earthed on the engine it was measuring 4 ohms. As the sensor resistance is pretty low at high temperatures this would make a big difference in the calculated value. So added 4 ohms to all the values to take this into account.
Easily created a new sensor input in Ignitron and added the sensor calibration.

 

[S3AMJ]

Very smart Karl! I like that, what extra bhp/boost have you set for your push to pass?


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[desertstorm]

Most of the time on track I run it around 1.7-1.8 bar , Push to pass I normally set to 2 bar so goes from around 440-450 to 500bhp. Just use it on long straights to get past cars quicker.

 

[S3AMJ]

I’m tempted to get a push to pass button mounted on my OEM steering wheel somehow. Don’t seem to be many options available unless I’m looking in the wrong places. Seen a couple for the likes of a OMP steering wheel and alike.


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[desertstorm]

Few more bits done whilst waiting for the weather to warm up.
Polyfilled the gearbox mount. This is the 3 bolt version of a DQ250 V6 TT . The stock 2 bolt 1.8T will bolt up to the gearbox mount, they have the same bolt spacing but I suspect with the increased weight of the transmission Audi decided to beef it up a bit.

Starting off with a mount and some 60 shore polyeurathane rubber mix.



Cleaned up the aluminium a bit with a rotary wire brush in the drill to make it easier for the tape to stick where it need to.
Cut some 8mm threaded bar and pushed it into the mount to compress it, One piece either side. With no weight on the mount it sits about 5-7mm higher than when it's in the car.



The mount is oil filled and I cut the rubber on the bottom and remove the oil and the rubber diaphragm so the cavity can be filled as well.



Tape the back side of the mount so the polyeurathane doesn't leak. Spend some time making sure it's sealed well and cut some tap strips for the bottom part where the oil used to be. This is filled first and then taped over quickly before putting it on it's side and filling the mount. You only have 4-5 minutes before it starts setting and getting thicker so won't pour or flow very well.



And after 2-3 hours remove the tape and all should be good.






Also made some brackets to fit the gear shifter display to the side of the gear shifter. This is how it will be going in the car. The yellow plastic thing is the emergency release to get the car out of park. If the battery is flat or there is an issue with the electronics you may not be able to move the car. Pressing the yellow thing allows the gearstick to be moved out of park .

 

[S3AMJ]

Looking forward to seeing this come together. Keegan is working on a DQ500 for his S3 I believe. What “tuneability” do you have with the DQ250? I’m assuming you will be able to map it some what.


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[Bluepower]

Eventually he will need to remap the mech-unit, as the torque will be to much for the standard clutch clamping force, causing slipping clutch and excessive wear

 

[desertstorm]

Always knew the box would need mapping, whether I went for a DQ250 or DQ500 as the standard shift points are not high enough and as you say the torque limits need raising in line with the clutch pressure and various other mods.
I believe the standard Golf R box changes up around 6800 RPM where as I want to be changing up around 7700-7800 RPM. I believe the maximum RPM is around 8150 RPM. I have several people in mind who can do this.
A remap on a good box with a decent clutch should hold 650Nm . This box has only done just over 32K miles so should be good. I only intend to run about 600Nm which is just under 450Lb/ft which will be plenty fast enough.

 

[desertstorm]

Looking forward to seeing this come together. Keegan is working on a DQ500 for his S3 I believe. What “tuneability” do you have with the DQ250? I’m assuming you will be able to map it some what.
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Discussed tunability in the post above. I looked at the DQ500 but there are issues with availability and the fact that it comes from an RS car. As soon as you say RS that usually adds 30% RS tax. There are a lot less DQ500 boxes around as well. Also the DQ500 gearing is quite a bit higher in 3rd gear upwards. It is designed for a bigger engined more powerful car and most of the time on track I will be using 3rd and 4 th gear. I have put the ratios in this spreadsheet for a DQB 6 speed manual box which is what is in my 225TT , An 8P RS3/TTRS DQ500 gearbox , The Golf R/ TTS/ Audi S3 DQ250 ,A Seat Sport Leon cup car with the DQ250 gearbox and a 2.0 TDI diesel.

First gear in all is pretty much the same . Second in all the petrol boxes is fairly close. If you look at the Seat Sport gearbox this car normally red lines at 6800 and in 6th gear that only works out just over 150mph . But on a track it's never likely to exceed that due to the lengths of straights. The spreadsheet is set up for gear changes at 7800 rpm . What you can see is the TTS DSG gearbox isn't a million miles away in terms of gearing until you get too 5th and 6th gear. One of the reasons these cars are so quick is the aggressive gearing they run. The DQ500 gearbox has 7 gears but these are just for high speed cruising really. In 6th gear at 7000 RPM it's around 200mph in 6th.

 

[S3AMJ]

Nicely put together mate, that Seat Racing DSG is pretty dam close, good job it’s automatic! Yeah your right the TTS DSG is very similar, slightly taller but ideal for what you want it for, I can see the attraction to the DSG box. To be fair Keegan did say he managed to find his DQ500 really cheaply, you’d often normally find them with the RS Tax like you mentioned.

You going to be running 225/45/17’s then? It’s amazing how much difference running 18’s make to the gearing speed, I didn’t appreciate it until I put in all the figures and started playing around with the ratios/wheel size and tyres, etc.


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[S3AMJ]

It’s nice that you can adjust the clamping force via mapping, I am curious how much abuse it’ll take on the track and what wears out soonest. I know for a fact I’ll be having to change out clutches more regularly with the G30-770 build. I am on the look out for a more suitable clutch system than what we generally run, as in the typical Sachs 4 Puk, DMF, etc.

Even running a solid flywheel on a well balanced engine with an 02m is going to rattle on idle and lower rpm. Even contemplating twin plate clutch! But as I’d be using my car on the roads more than track, that’ll wear it out just as quick.

What a conundrum.......


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[desertstorm]

I set the tyre size as 225/45/17 as my normal road tyres are 245/35/18 but the sheet doesn't have an option for 35 profile tyres. They are the same rolling circumference. The Issue with DSG cars on track is keeping the oil temperatures down. The gearbox in the stock car are pretty much buried with stuff around them so have poor surface cooling. The thing that causes high oil temps more than anything is clutch slippage especially extended shift times.

 

[desertstorm]

Did a bit more preparation to get the gearbox in decided to make up the wiring harnesses for the selector and gearbox and made them up so I could connect the gearbox and selector to the car to test everything out.
So gearbox is on a trolley at the back of the car in the garage, better not drive out the garage at the moment with this connected.






Not that many wires required on each connector. Basically a twisted CAN pair, 12V permanent, 12V switched , GND and the gearbox has a K line. There are a few other wires that I am not using.



Logged into the gearbox and all looks good. Gearbox has covered just over 32.5K miles and has no errors showing. Had a few issues with faults regarding CAN bus issues because the gearbox is expecting to see a CANBUS gateway and the ABS module is not the same as the one in a 2012 TTS.
The CANBUS gateway error was resolved by ticking an option in the protocol emulation so it generates a packet with the relevant data in it.



The ABS CANBUS issue was resolved by running one of the BASIC settings on the gearbox group 69. The gearbox was expecting more information than my clonky old MK20 was giving it. This setting teaches the gearbox about the enviroment it's in and what is available to it.So the implausible can bus event no longer exists.



Also ticked Kickdown so ECU passes on the Kickdown signal when the accelerator is floored. I can see the steering wheel paddles in the measuring blocks on the gearbox.
Coded the cluster so it supports the auto gearbox CAN and all the gear selector info is shown correctly on the display.



So many screens with config and options for controlling the DSG gearbox. You can define your own maps in hear for changing points dependent on what is configured in the DSG gearbox map.



This is going to be an interesting one to set up and is probably the most tricky part of this. The engine has to respond to gearbox requests to reduce torque on upshifts. This can take more effort than actually mapping the car to get it to work well. This includes the ignition ****** which is what causes that distinctive farting on DSG cars when they change up.

 

[baliszoft]

So many screens with config and options for controlling the DSG gearbox.

Dont forget about torque mapping either, then there is rev matching, ...

 

[Rainbird]

Great write up as usual Karl. Thanks for sharing this info, I'd like to look into DSG at some point in the future and expect I'll be revisiting your thread frequently when the time comes!

 

[desertstorm]

Dont forget about torque mapping either, then there is rev matching, ...

Yes I may be sending a few IM's your way .

 

[Warsuperior]

Did you ever get G195 G196 errors with abs fuse on from mk20 abs unit?
I have problem with DQ250 MTX gearbox from Golf R that I get those error and gear disengament if speed goes over 60km/h. Car is Audi S3 1999
I have tried to solve this and Im trying your tricks today that I read and hope it works and I dont have to change abs box to mk60
Does your car have ESP btw?
Mine dont and some say that is problem

 

[desertstorm]

Hi Tuomo just having the box connected to the car but not actually driving it anywhere I haven't seen any other errors. My TT is a 2002 and does have ESP . It may be that your issue is down to the fact that the gearbox is looking for a signal from the ESP to validate the speed sensor readings and it's not getting that. Possibly by doing the adaption on block 69 it may see that the information is not available so won't look for it. I didn't do a screenshot before I did the adaption only one after . But I am sure there were more 1's in the pattern before than after.
Take a screenshot of yours before and after if you can and then we can compare with what I have.
Karl

 

[Warsuperior]

are you sure you have mk20? because I have not found mk20 with esp on 2002 models, only mk60.
I have now found mk20 esp models either, I am just asking to make sure you have mk20 box
Since it looks like I have to upgrade my mk20 to mk60 esp model for DSG to work proper. I have tried practically every other option and I still cannot drive over 60kmh without getting this G195 speed sensor error.
I will try do your adaption tomorrow but I am pretty sure it will fail as has all others too..

 

[desertstorm]

It is a MK20 ABS ECU this is the screen I copied when I playing with it the other day. The coding 16398 disables the ESP . It gets in the way on track.
My car has external brake pressure sensors mounted on the master cylinder and different lateral and longitudinal sensors to the MK60.

Looking at the parts listing.On a 2001 car there are options for 4 different ABS modules dependent on whether a MK20 or MK60 is fitted and whether it's FWD or quattro.
I have looked into swapping a MK20 to MK60 just in case it's required and it's not that straightforward. The brake pipes are in different locations for a start so the physical installation is different.

 

[desertstorm]

There are a few thread around where people have installed DSG boxes in older 1.8t cars. This one is a 2000 S3 in America
https://www.vwvortex.com/threads/1-...ith-photos-videos-and-racelogic-data.9353965/

Looking at the picture of the engine bay you can tell this car has a MK20 ABS system in as all the Hydraulic connections are on the one end .A MK60 has 2 connections on the top of the module by the pump. This car may have ESP though.

 

[Warsuperior]

Thanks for information! It looks like the ESP is the key to get DSG to work, I have that vwvortex topic and looks like all have ESP.
I dont have it on my ABS and for some reason it dont want to work over 60kmh with ABS fuse on. I try some recode things today but I have a feeling that I need to get ESP ABS box to get it to work
I didnt check TT part numbers so that is why I did not find it on S3 or mkiv golf but thanks again and sorry to spam your topic.

 

[desertstorm]

Small change on the car today. Something I was toying with for a while. I already run a 90A alternator to try and reduce losses on the engine. Nearly all small alternators have a solid pulley as they are not so much in need of an overunning pulley (OAP) . With the fitting of a DSG box and hopefully much quicker changes I thought having an OAP on a small alternator might be good. Also potentially fitting a larger pulley as the OE alternator exceeds it's design speed of 18K rpm at anything over 7440 RPM.
So having a look in the Gates pulley catalogue I found the perfect item. Already used on some VAG commercial engines more than likely to make the alternator last longer. This pulley gives you a 20% reduction in alternator rpm. So that moves the 18K point to 9300 RPM more than enough for most people.
I wasn't sure if an OAP would fit on my existing 90A alternator so found a 90A alternator on Fleabay used for a Volkswagen LT and transporter with the larger pulley. VW part number 074903026
Bought this and when it arrived the OAP was seized. Got a partial refund from the seller and found a brand new Gates OAP for £20 also bought the tool to remove the pulley for £7.
Calculated that the belt would need to be longer due to the bigger pulley by 18mm so bought a 6PK1138 belt. The 6PK1120 being the standard belt with no AC.
Original 120A on the left, 90A alternator with larger OAP on the right.





New belt I calculated 18-20mm longer than stock to allow for the larger pulley.



Fitted this afternoon and appears to work fine. The tensioner is in the same place as OE is. I am not sure if you could reuse the stock 1120 belt there isn't much room between the tensioner and the pulley and a shorter belt would make this gap less.
There is enough gap between the tensioner and pulley to run fine with the longer belt. I never tried fitting the original shorter belt as this would move the tensioner away from the alternator and alter the angle the belt leaves the pulley moving it closer to the tensioner.



At fast idle when warming up seeing 14.3v the same as my original. At hot idle 860 rpm with the headlights on seeing 14.2V . Start loading it up at idle with everything I could heated rear window, rad fan full speed , fog lights, hazzards, heater fan full speed etc dropped to around 12.5V. Rev it to 1500rpm and back upto 14v.
I am not sure what it did before in this scenario as it is a little extreme. But logging it on Ignitron on a run it's the same as before typically 13.9-14.1v.
Ideal mod for a track car with minimal electrical requirements. You could fit the larger OAP and belt to a stock 120A alternator.
If you had the aircon fitted and used the larger pulley you would need a 6DPK1215 belt instead of the stock 6DPK1195.
Overunning pulley part number is Bosch 0124325088 VW 021903119H I used a Gates OAP7066.
If you want a non overrun solid pulley Bosch 0124325004 VW 028903119L

 

[desertstorm]

Tatting with the TT today, just tweaking the mapping a bit before I put the DSG in and playing with the HPA Haldex controller, trying out Race mode.
Hopefully with the DSG gearbox be in the low 3's .

 

[desertstorm]

Well the DSG gearbox has been in for a few weeks now. Been playing with the mapping on the ECU to improve the changes . The stock mapping on the Ignitron ECU was pretty good. Car was very driveable and I was surprised how good it was.
Bit of a faff changing it out and had to think a bit about how to swap the box with the engine on a crane as the DSG gearbox weighs 100Kg as compared to the stock 02m around 70Kg.
I weighed all the parts of the old gearbox and new one to try and get an idea of how much extra weight this would add.
02M with oil and including gearbox side mount 69Kg no flywheel or clutch
02m clutch pedal and piping 1.5kg
02E DSG gearbox including mount 99.8Kg no flywheel or clutch
DSG flywheel 11.5 Kg
02M flywheel 11.6Kg 02m clutch and pressure plate 4.8Kg
02m gear change selector 3.8Kg
DSG gear selector 2.1 Kg
02M total = 69 + 11.6 + 4.8 + 3.8 + 1.5 = 90.7
DSG = 99.8 + 11.5 + 2.1 = 113.4 22.7 Kg Heavier










The 02E gearbox is a heavy lump and i found the easiest way of getting the gearbox on the engine was to hang the engine on the crane straight and level and then slide the gearbox on a trolley onto the end of the engine.



Don't forget to install a spigot bearing. I used the 2.0 TFSI item , put in the freezer for a few hours. clean any surface rust or dirt from the bore on the crank and lubricate a little. Spigot tapped in easily with the flat end of a socket.



Some of the bolts used to secure the gearbox to the engine are the same as the O2M although a lot are much shorter especially the starter motor mounting bolts. Fortunately the gearbox had not been removed from the car when I bought it so I asked the breaker to keep all the bolts.
Mounting the gearchange I decided to fit the new one on top of the tunnel as it puts the gear change closer to the wheel but also means if it required changing out I wouldn't have to remove the exhaust and prop again. The cable used to activate the park mechanism also goes through the hole where the AC condensate drain was. I no longer have AC. This appears in the engine compartment at just the right place.





The mounting bracket for the transfer box to engine block fitted perfectly with no modification. One of the bolt holes is a smaller thread dimension than on a 2.0 TFSI .
When swinging the engine in to the bay I noticed that there was very little clearance between the mechatronic and the point that the engine front cross brace mounts. Took an angle grinder to that and removed a piece as well as a piece of the cross brace. Now mounts with 2 bolts instead of 3.





The existing driveshafts fit as they are but only because I have MK2 TTS ball joints on the car to increase camber and this increase the track of the car. The drivers side driveshaft has about 8-10mm articulation left with the driveshaft parallel to the ground, which is the minimum length. I will look into getting the TTS drivers side shaft shortened and fitted. However my shafts have nut fixings at the moment and the newer shafts are bolt fixings on the bub so I think this will require a new hub.



I also moved the entire engine / gearbox towards the passenger side to maximise the potential movement for the driveshaft.This also helps with what appears to be a slightly different positioning of the rear transfer box output shaft.
Some parts numbers of items used.
Spigot bearing middle of flywheel Sachs 1863 869 047
Gearbox selector 3AC713025D off a 21010- 2014 Passat CC
clockspring 1J0959654M
Steering wheel 2011 Ibiza Cupra TSI DSG 6J0419091R
The gearbox transfer case to engine bracket I have 02M409905AH

The power steering pipes have all been changed out using the high pressure hose I had made up and the V6 low pressure return with the Jaguar PAS cooler cut down and fitted between the FMIC and radiator.





The gearbox in it's new home.



Taking a bit to get used to the new setup. The gearbox is on stock mapping so torque is limited to 380Nm although it will handle more than that as seen by all the cars driving around with stage 1, 2 maps on and stock gearbox maps.
I am running it a 1.4 Bar max boost so around 420Nm and still have the 6800 rpm stock gear change points. When the gearbox is remapped I will be able to run full 2 - 2.2 bar boost with 7800 RPM change points.
Stock mapping in Drive the gearbox does it's best to get you into 6th as quick as possible. Usually by 30-35mph you are in 6th. In Sport it's a completely different story it wants to keep you around 4K rpm and a slight prod of the accelerator has it changing down. Manual steering wheel paddles work in any mode to change gears .

A quick video I did the other day and a copy of some of the log from Ignitron which just covers the period in the video. You can see the car gets from 30 to 95mph in around 6.3s , I can't fathom how much quicker it will be when the gearbox is mapped.

 

[desertstorm]

Don't think I put in any details of the V6 power steering mods. On the 225 it's ridiculously complicated compared to a V6 with the pipe routing and cooler pipes which are prone to rusting and are heavy. The OE high pressure pipe will not fit with the DSG as all the turns in front of the gearbox is where the Mechatronic is on the DSG. So got a high pressure pipe made up at a local hydraulic place. And bought the low pressure side stuff from Ebay. The PAS fluid bottle is the same and mounts the same.
Just the pipe routing is very much different. The V6 having a lot less piping and is a lot simpler.





The replacement hose, It was around £25 so not silly expensive.





All the parts, The cooler is off Ebay, I think they are slightly damaged new stock coolers of S type jaguars. Nice and light and a good size with alloy brackets that are easily cut. Pipe size is the same as the OE TT items .




Modified cooler fits between the rad and FMIC as I have no air con.





Small amount of whining from the power steering pump when the engine is upto temp. The factory high pressure hose has restrictors in and is modified to stop this whining noise caused by pressure pulses in the system. Only noticeable when stopped and manouvering at slow speed.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Its inevitable that I will end up with a DSG box tbh but by the time I am ready you and Brian should have ironed all the kinks out LOL...

Good work

<tuffty/>

 

[bobby singh]

Wow Karl awsome work well done.
If you want send me the DSG software I'll pump up the torq lim for you

 

[S3AMJ]

I was wondering how you were getting on Karl, nice work. Well documented as always. Surprisingly a lot is involved!


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[desertstorm]

Done some tweaking with the gearbox mapping and got the speedo sorted . In this video running 1.4 bar boost as this is on the limit of what the stock gearbox mapping will handle.Most of the time I run it at 1.2 bar boost and there it's still very nippy.



Looking to get a stage 3 TVS gearbox map, Not the cheapest but probably the best you can get. Should hopefully be able to run upto 600Nm and 7800 RPM when the box is mapped.

With the existing TT driveshaft only having about 5mm of movement it was working but I suspect that long term this would have been an issue and I was only getting that 5mm because I had mk2 TT bottom ball joints.
The inner joints on the 3.2V6 TT DSG box are tripodic so won't fit the CV type flanges on the TTS box. Found that on the MK5 Golf R32 DSG the later cars changed from Tripodic to CV type driveshafts. These are 15mm shorter than my TT driveshaft at 600mm rather than 615mm.
Result, bit more searching and found several part numbers all identical components used on different cars.
1K0407272CR 3C0407272BD 1K0407452TX 5Q0407272EQ 1K0407272JF 1K0407454MX 5Q0407272K
After a quick search on Ebay found a 5Q0407272K from a 2017 A3 2.0 TDI for the princely sum of £38 delivered. Just 3 years old so not a lot of use. I have nut type driveshafts on my TT so bought a second hand steering knuckle complete with the bolt fixing hub from a breaker for £25. Bearing turned out to be good which was a bonus, so painted up and was fitted the weekend. Now have 20mm play on the shaft which puts it right in middle of where it needs to be. There is roughly 40mm of movement on the inboard CV joint.



Also fitted a large centre silencer to reduce the exhaust noise a little. Trying to get it track friendly for all tracks across the country. It's also nicer to drive on a long trip.

Measured up a centre silencer and decided on a round 4.5 inch silencer 20 inches long. Pretty much as big as I could easily fit in the existing space in the middle. Didn't want to reduce the ground clearance by going to a 5 inch silencer.
Found just the perfect silencer on Fleabay, 304 stainless made in the UK. Looks good quality and only cost £60.
Weighs 3.8Kg, the length of exhaust I cut out was 1.8Kg so a net 2Kg gain. Did some before and after videos with a SPL meter.
measured levels at 1m 45 degrees to exhaust at idle, 3K and 5K.
Before After
Idle 79 77
3K RPM 85 80
5K RPM 91 87
Definitely quieter in the car with no loss of performance.

4.5" x 20" Clamp On Stainless Steel Silencer Exhaust Box Body 3" (76mm) Bore | eBay

Inlet: 3" / 76mm . Outlet: 3" / 76mm . Due to the materials used this silencer will not degrade or rust, it is a change once solution. T304 Stainless Steel 115mm / 4.5" 500mm / 20" 76mm / 3" 76mm / 3".

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[S3AMJ]

Nice work on the silencer Karl, my old 3” system use to drone a fair bit even with a shorter mid section silencer. Seems a lot of people are going for the longer narrower silencers with good success.


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[desertstorm]

Decided to have a play with the launch control on the gearbox. Seems that it needs the ESP to work for the launch control to be enabled. I had coded out the ESP on the ABS module as on track even with it turned off it still intervenes occasionally.
Coded the ESP back in and to get the car to launch you just turn the ESP off, make sure the gearbox is in sport or tiptronic mode and brake with the left foot,right foot flat on the accelerator and then take your foot off the brake.
The launch RPM is set in the ECU so I can configure whatever I want, this was a not too aggressive 4K rpm.
ECU is running only 1.2 bar of boost as gearbox still on the stock map, so only around 330bhp.
Quite surprised how quick it was, pretty much the same as the 500bhp manual launch I tried before I put the DSG box in. A whole lot less stress on the transmission. Be interesting to see what it does after Tuesday next week when the TVS stage 3 map goes on the gearbox.



This is some of the log from the run above.Gear changes at 6800 which is the max RPM, on the stock tune. Will be changing faster and at 75-7600 next week with much higher boost so I expect very low 3s times.

 

[desertstorm]

Not updated this for a while has had a few issues but hopefully all is now good.
Had some issues with the car the day I took it to Awesome GTI to get a TVS stage 3 map on the box. Only got the car back around 4pm in the afternoon to test and make sure all was OK. On roads I didn't know managed to find one that had a very big drop in the road surface ,like there was underground subsidence. The car literally took off and flew landing very hard. The next time I accelerated hard there was a loud bang, lot's of noise and I quickly stopped the car.
From the parts I found on the road at the rear of the car I figured the haldex coupling had failed on the bevel box. This was a fairly new Meyle HD item, one of the mounting bolts on the prop had sheared. Recovered by the AA from Manchester.Needed a new coupling, second hand prop and unfortunately second hand transfer case as the output flange arm was bent and could not be straightened.









Once that was sorted I could get on with tweaking the ECU mapping. Took the car on it's first Track day at Mallory Park and it ran really well. I have had to move the gearbox cooler rad and alter the gearbox breather as gearbox temps were hitting 130+. I had the cooler rad at the rear of the main rad to make it easier to fit, on the road no issues at all even when pushing it. On track after 15 minutes temps were up at 135+ . Didn't help that I left the front number plate on, there are a lot of cooling holes behind this.Was only running 1.5 bar boost.





New location of the gearbox cooler in front of the rad, had to move the oil cooler and reposition the FMIC a bit, all now appears to be good.




Just at the end of the second session the Passenger side driveshaft failed when the hub nut sheared off, lucky car didn't end up in the armco at the edge of the track as it pulled left quite quickly when braking around 90 mph. This happened right at the end of the track video, explains my slightly animated conversation with myself.
Brake pedal went long as well as the disc was running at an angle through the caliper so pushing the pads back. I suspect this is also related to the airborne flying episode. Both hubs have been replaced now with bolt types and I used the TTS passenger side driveshaft.
Ignitron ECU log when the Hub nut failed, You can see the steering correction made when the bolt failed around 90mph.



When I jacked the car up and went to check for play in the wheel it was all over the place, I removed the plastic centre cap and the nut fell out on the floor attached to part of the driveshaft, think I had found the problem.



Since then have revisited the gearbox mapping and ECU mapping, think I now have it running well at 2 bar if I want it.
The TVS stage 3 map certainly does what it's meant too, quicker changes and 18 bar clamp pressure on the clutch pack to give genuine 600Nm torque handling.



Did some runs with my Dragy and managed 3.26s 0-60 , 7.21 @101 mph 1/8 mile and an 11.24 @123 mph quarter mile. Also recorded a 7.42s 100-200Km/h . Tried a slightly more aggressive launch but just lit all 4 tyres up and had the car going sideways. There is a bit more in the mapping as the turbo will goto 2.2 bar in the midrange and there may be a very high 10 second 1/4 with a better launch on a more grippy surface .



















For reference a 2016 991 GT3 Porsche doing 100-200Km/h on Dragy with a 7.66s

And a Ferrari 458 0-100Km/h in 3.73s, the TT does that in 3.36s and 100-200Km/h in 7.52s

 

[S3AMJ]

Some nice comparisons Karl! Sorry to hear about the car, must have been a serious drop looked like absolute carnage seeing those parts.

DSG does seem to be the way forward in making these cars Uber quick, that and 500bhp.

Now that you’ve got it together again, how do you feel the TVS stage 3 map is in comparison to what it was like before, more clamping force and more responsive changes I’m guessing. Also with the map does it change the gear change rpm?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[desertstorm]

Some nice comparisons Karl! Sorry to hear about the car, must have been a serious drop looked like absolute carnage seeing those parts.

DSG does seem to be the way forward in making these cars Uber quick, that and 500bhp.

Now that you’ve got it together again, how do you feel the TVS stage 3 map is in comparison to what it was like before, more clamping force and more responsive changes I’m guessing. Also with the map does it change the gear change rpm?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The TVS map has much better gear change points on D, the stock mapping tries to get you to 6th ASAP, You are usually in 6th by 30-35mph, It's all about economy and emissions. The TVS map is a lot better and you need to get to around 45mph before you end up in 6th. The max RPM in each gear is configureable in D,S and Tip mode.
I had the Tip max RPM set at 7900RPM and use the gearbox maps in Ignitron to change earlier around 7500 RPM. This effectively give me the option to create my own maps for the gearbox change points using Ignitron. It Certainly changes gears quicker and maximum clamping force on the stock map is around 12.5 bar .

 

[<tuffty/>]

Nice one Karl... bad luck about the doughnut... having blown a transfer box and prop centre CV I feel your pain...

Based on my measurements for the DSG box I have the 02E transfer box sits the centre line of the prop approx 10mm over to the right of the tunnel (apolgies if you have already mentioned this, not read all the DSG updates on your thread yet)....

Do you think this has contributed to stressing the doughnut at all being slightly off centre or did you manage to mitigate it a bit?

<tuffty/>

 

[desertstorm]

Nice one Karl... bad luck about the doughnut... having blown a transfer box and prop centre CV I feel your pain...

Based on my measurements for the DSG box I have the 02E transfer box sits the centre line of the prop approx 10mm over to the right of the tunnel (apolgies if you have already mentioned this, not read all the DSG updates on your thread yet)....

Do you think this has contributed to stressing the doughnut at all being slightly off centre or did you manage to mitigate it a bit?

<tuffty/>

Hi, I was aware that there was a difference in the centre line of the prop. Having a blown up 02M box in the garage at the same time as the 02E I compared the measurements and found that 10mm difference. I think it comes down to the fact that these are used in cars with a wider track than the 8L/ 8N so helps to keep the engine / box closer to the centre of the engine bay with the prop running down the centre line of the car.
I have mounted the engine as far to the left of the car as I can. The engine mount bolt holes are slotted so I have used this to gain as much movement as I can. Was concerned that the lower gearbox engine mount might not line up but it did perfectly without having to force anything. With the CV joint in the centre of the prop I don't think it's a big issue. If you look at the amount of movement in a car with worn stock engine mounts there is a lot of movement in the engine way past the few mm misalignment that I may have.
The failure was entirely due to the way the car literally flew through the air and landed really hard when I hit this drop in the road. Really caught me out and was not expecting it at all, good job the road was straight as otherwise I may have been visting the scenery. With the semi solid engine mounts, hard suspension etc and what is supposed to be a Heavy Duty coupling so possibly stiffer the shock loads have to go somewhere and one bolt sheared on the prop. The bolts were the ones that came with the Meyle HD coupling and were marked 10.9 the same as the OE ones. I have used a Febi item with new OE bolts as a replacement. There may be a little more give in a non HD part and the bolt looked quite crystalline where it had failed. Not that I am metalurgical expert but an OE bolt may not have snapped.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Yeah I suspected I could just shift it across a bit to take most of that up... I have most of the bits to get mine fitted... just need to sort the right hand drive shaft as my R32 transfer box has the trilobal style cup... I am ok with it tbh as not planning a lot of power from the VR... I may still keep a look out for a n other transfer box at some point but I currently have 3 DSG 02E transfer boxes and they are all different and only the R32 one fits the box I have so far LOL

<tuffty/>

 

[desertstorm]

What a fantastic piece of kit the Ignitron is.
Many thanks to Balázs Farkas and the team behind Ignitron ECU . Spent some time playing with the boost by gear and Launch control maps to tweak the launch on the TT. Made so much easier by the fact that the whole process is really devoid of human input after the brake pedal is lifted. With the fantastic logging facilities you can look at ABS wheel speeds on launch and see whats going on. I have found by optimising the RPM and throttle position along with limiting the boost in 1st and seconds gears you can very much get the best launch possible with the available traction. The best launch seems to occur when the wheel slip is small and wheel speeds across all 4 wheels are within a few mph of each other.
Also upped the boost to 2.2 bar in the midrange it has improved the 0-100mph figure and a 10 second quarter should easily be done now. Unfortunately I lifted off early on my private test road and only managed an 11.05 quarter at 102mph. That would easily have been a 10.9 something around 124-25 mph.
Wonder how much quicker it would be without the big wing on the back.

 

[bobby singh]

Very impressive times Karl