Sportback Michellin ps4s?

There are 3 basic settings for the ESC. These settings are tied to the drive modes - comfort, auto, and dynamic. On startup the car is always in comfort (even though the dash says dynamic). The comfort mode cuts power when the ESC flashes. The power is not usually cut when dynamic is correctly set. If the power is cut when in dynamic I would say the driver is overdriving the car.

After setting the tyre pressure one must reset the TPMS. Failing to do this means that the ESC runs on faulty information. A different load index (from replacement tyres) requires a different pressure. The dampers wear over time and this will affect the ESC functioning.
 
Haldex probably needs a software update.

Was talking to a tech at Ecotune last year and he said a few of their customers who run staggered PS4S on the RS3 have had traction light issues and solved with Haldex software a tak
Haldex probably needs a software update.

Was talking to a tech at Ecotune last year and he said a few of their customers who run staggered PS4S on the RS3 have had traction light issues and solved with Haldex software update
A take it any Audi specialist garage can do this. The cars got 15,000miles 3 years old so a was start to think the haldex was needing a full check. Thanks for replying too appreciate the help mate
 
A take it any Audi specialist garage can do this. The cars got 15,000miles 3 years old so a was start to think the haldex was needing a full check. Thanks for replying too appreciate the help mate
Think they need to have an ODIS account to do software updates to the module

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Think they need to have an ODIS account to do software updates to the module

Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk
It’s booked in for next week I’ll mention what u have said too. It’s got a warranty so hopefully it’s all good. I bought it from Leeds and am up in Scotland. Pain in the ****
 
I have the staggered 255 front / 235 rear (2018 non OPF model / DAZA), Michelin Pilot Sport 4S and the occasional hicup in the Haldex, especially when cold. It's what flybynite says; The circumference of these tires is to blame for it. I solved (part) of the problem by putting 3 psi more air in the fronts. The circumference with that lies closer to the 235 on the rears with the 'standard' pressures. After those tires are done i go square all around 245/35/19. They go easily on 8J and 8.5J.
 
Did anyone actually measure the diameter of the Pirelli 255/30/19 and compare it to the MPS4S 255/30/19 ?

I see lots of mention on here how the Pirelli is matched to the rear 235/35/19.
If you use the tyre size calculator that means Pirelli would have affectively made a 255/32.5/19 to match a standard 235/35/19
Unless they played with both tyres and made the rear slightly smaller than a 35profile and the front slightly larger than 30 profile.

I have a 2018 FL Saloon on the standard 255F/235R configuration. I also have a set of 235/35 winter sottozeros that I swap over for winter. Never had any TC issues before but the PZeros don't feel like a great tyre. When I had the fronts removed last November the inside wall was in a bit of a state. I purchased a pair of 255/30/19 MPS4S so I am currently running on 255 MPS4S Front and 235 PZ rears. I am facing the TC light occasionally even just under light acceleration. Pressures are currently 39PSI front and 35PSI rear. As others have said/shown the front tyre does look a little wide for the wheel. I am now a bit stuck on what to do. I see people saying the 235/35 MPS4S is similar to the 255 PZ which would probably sort out the fronts, but does that mean on the 8J wheel at the rear the 235 MPS4S will look too big, much like the 255 does at the moment?

Also note I am not sure how much longer I will keep the car, the extended warranty will run out later this year and I've already had this car longer than I usually keep cars but I really can't fault the car apart from a fear of owning it without warranty cover.

I see people talking of a 245/35 staggered alternative however Tyre calculator shows a 245/35 to 235/5 have a -1.2% difference in circumference/diameter and a 255/30 to 235/35 have a +2% difference. So there is still a difference that may cause the TC issues so not sure I want to take that gamble. I can't find the 245s available anywhere anyway. Crazy to think that a 13mm difference in diameter is causing issues considering you will always have small differences between temperature/pressure and wear that will all affect the the tyre diameter dynamically as you drive.

The options I can see:
4x 235/35/19 MPS4S = £600
2x PZero RO2s at the front = £400 knowing they don't last very well.
then try and sell the 255s that I just paid a fortune for..

Declan11 - how did you resolve your issue??
 
It’s booked in for next week I’ll mention what u have said too. It’s got a warranty so hopefully it’s all good. I bought it from Leeds and am up in Scotland. Pain in the ****
any update on your situation with the MPS4S front and PZ rear? :)
 
One quick question on this, if the Michelin 235's are the same sort of width as the Pirelli 255, wouldnt the 235 Michelins then be wider than the standard Pirelli 235's at the back then on a staggered set up? Wouldnt you need to go 215's at the back for them to be similar to the 235 Pirellis?
 
One quick question on this, if the Michelin 235's are the same sort of width as the Pirelli 255, wouldnt the 235 Michelins then be wider than the standard Pirelli 235's at the back then on a staggered set up? Wouldnt you need to go 215's at the back for them to be similar to the 235 Pirellis?
Doesn't work like that. The rear 235 is very similar to a standard tyre. It is the RO2 Pirelli 255 front that is the oddball.

The tread is about 235, however the huge shoulders on the tyre that look like rim protectors extend out each side making the tyre a 255 technically.

Unfortunately it seems the huge chunk of rubber on the outside may be helping understeer but seems to be causing the inside to scrub significantly at some point during the corner which is why some (including mine) were worn to the belt on the inside edge (not by me so can't comment on how it was driven) PS4Ss are wearing evenly so far on mine now.
 
Not sure if this is a known fact but, all this talk on what size is the best in place of the Pirellis had me thinking!

I have asked the odd question on here, and read all the comments that you have all put.

I am still none the wiser on the definite answer?

Some of you say yo have no problems, others say they do!

This got me thinking, now I am no way an expert on this at-all.

So today whilst visiting the Goodwood Festival of Speed I was at the Michelin stand just by chance looking at a tyre, as you do.

When asked would I like any help! well I said in fact yes can I ask a technical question?

To which the reply was I will get someone to answer any questions you have.

Spoke to a chap called Jamie, and asked the question "what Michelin tyre fits the RS3?

The reply was sorry we don't make a tyre that fit the RS3 as its the RO2 sized tyre!

He the went on to why, and the conversation was so long cannot remember it all.

But thats why there are traction issues, lights, cars underivable, etc etc.

In short the only tyre to fit the 3 is the Pirelli RO2 as it was made for the car.

If any only here is at FOS this weekend go ask for yourself ask for Jamie.
 
In short the only tyre to fit the 3 is the Pirelli RO2 as it was made for the car.

If any only here is at FOS this weekend go ask for yourself ask for Jamie.
He is right

But the problem also goes away if you fit the same size tyre front and back, then you can fit whatever tyre you want without any traction issues. IMHO the alloy engine cars do not need the staggered tyres, especially the saloon. I am on a square setup of PS4S and it is more than fine. RS3 did come as standard with square 235. Staggered was an option code (at least on my 2018 it was)

If you want staggered tyres then yes you need the RO2, no traction issues but no inside tyre tread either unless you drive really carefully. There is an RO2 Continental but not sure it is any better.

Hope you enjoy Goodwood, cracking place to be :icon thumright:
 
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He is right

But the problem also goes away if you fit the same size tyre front and back, then you can fit whatever tyre you want without any traction issues. IMHO the alloy engine cars do not need the staggered tyres, especially the saloon. I am on a square setup of PS4S and it is more than fine. RS3 did come as standard with square 235. Staggered was an option code (at least on my 2018 it was)

If you want staggered tyres then yes you need the RO2, no traction issues but no inside tyre tread either unless you drive really carefully. There is an RO2 Continental but not sure it is any better.

Hope you enjoy Goodwood, cracking place to be :icon thumright:
Only 10 minuets from Goodwood so rude not to go lol.
So apart from wider front rims, an optioned staggered set up car would that have any software differences to a square set up car to tell it there is a difference?
 
So apart from wider front rims, an optioned staggered set up car would that have any software differences to a square set up car to tell it there is a difference?
Difficult to say but I doubt it. There are some suspicious settings in the system but I suspect they are for speedo calibration for wheel diameter differences in wheel sets fitted across the A3 range.

If there was then I think Audi would have used the function already instead of making a franken-tyre, however it looks like the 'software update' is a fudge to just make the TC a bit less sensitive.

IMHO it is all a fudge. They are using a tyre to fix a balance and geometry problem only really visible at 10/10ths on the 'Ring.

It says it all to me that here was a monumental shift in balance with the FL engine but the tyres and chassis stayed the same.