Just a drop air filter element and a high flow cat downpipe.
I'm confident the car is good for 3.5x sec 0-60mph in the right conditions.
MG1/MD1 Series ECUs cracked (B9)
- Thread starter Kondax
- Start date
Just a drop air filter element and a high flow cat downpipe.
I'm confident the car is good for 3.5x sec 0-60mph in the right conditions.
I’m intrigued to know how you think the density altitude isn’t correct? Just because it has the temperature and elevation that’s only part of the equation. You need the due point and barometric pressure for his location if you know what that was on what ever day he done his run?
Apart from the DEW point being irrelevant in any such calculation what do you calculate the seal level pressure altitude to be in that circumstance given the data provided?
My S4 it catless and the turbo spools noticeably quicker, especially with a straight through exhaust.
Best we keep any further debate offline to avoid distracting what is a useful thread. But I note that the DA is at the top of his acceleration graph which, off the top of my head, would equate to a SL pressure of 970mb which is extremely low if calculated correctly. Further, assuming his DTUK box is the same as mine I would regard those times as extremely optimistic for the power available. Hence my interest in a more comprehensive tried and tested remap by APR for the B9 V6 Turbo as and when.
I think your car is just slower than mine Dingah...
Indeed, boost comes on quicker and holds a bit later.
Indeed, boost comes on quicker and holds a bit later.
Whether or not one's car is faster than another means that the infinitely variable human element has to also be factored in to the system under test.
It follows that either a timed run on a drag strip or illegal racing might be needed to resolve any such debate - neither appeal as a sensible option.
Similar with dyno, where the human factor plays a fairly significant role.
Having tried 6 or maybe seven different dynos and operators there are only two whom I trusted and even then the range of issue that emanate when trying to force a smart all-wheel drive system to perform correctly on a rolling road can adversely impact the resulting numbers.
In your case the following questions of interest might arise:
what are the before and after comparisons of performance under similar or same conditions, if that is possible.
Who is undertaking the re-map of your B9S4 V6T?
What is the history and therein competence of the re-mapped software used?
What do the Stage 1 and Stage 2 configurations actually comprise?
Is 99RON in the UK is limited to OPTIMAX and equivalents?
Who is undertaking the re-map of your B9S4 V6T?
What is the history and therein competence of the re-mapped software used?
What do the Stage 1 and Stage 2 configurations actually comprise?
Is 99RON in the UK is limited to OPTIMAX and equivalents?
Unfortunately the Australian supplied fuels are some the poorest quality on the planet which is more to do with a union issue than it is refining, hence that combined with the higher temps and resulting DA (I live at approx 2000'AMSL) means that we would generally plan for the conservative end of the potential outcomes down under.
For consideration - research and own experiences seem to show that the actual impacts of fitting K&N and the like are barely measurable; increases in performance may well have been sensed because of a lighter wallet than actual kW output change.
If you map dollars invested versus power gained it is most likely that a simple software re-map of a turbochargesdcar is far and away the best value; thereafter there is a distinct rise in investment required which then relates to loss of resale value and more limited power gains at the wheels.
Good luck and I and I am certain other forum folk hope it all works out with minimal cost or fuss for you.
Dingah
By figures I didn't just mean Dyno graphs but also 0-60mph, and 60-130mph times. I'm aware that different dynos will produce different results so I'm not that interested in power figures as much as I am in real life performance.
I'm having the remap done as I have a CEL from my decat and my car seems to keep fluctuating in power. I already have bespoke Stage 2 maps on my tuning box so I already know roughly what to expect.
The difference between my Stage 2 files and the stock car is night and day. I will happily pay the same money for this experience over again. The car feels absolutely incredible and the torque over the mid and high range is just phenomenal.
Money isn't really an issue in my case. I picked the car not just for its power but the technology, looks, comfort and everything in-between. This is a terrible idea as an investment, but my car is essentially a hobby to me - and hobbies can be expensive!
Good response and appreciate you taking the time.
You say you have bespoke maps for your tuning box - what connections does that tuning box have to the ECU?
Dingah
You say you have bespoke maps for your tuning box - what connections does that tuning box have to the ECU?
Dingah
No worries.
The tuning box just connects to two boost sensors and the camshaft sensor. In case you're not aware, it just intercepts the readings and essentially relays to the ECU that the car isn't hitting boost targets.
It's a pretty icky solution and not something I'd pay £600 or more for. I paid a lot less as it was second hand otherwise I wouldn't have it in the first place.
The maps I'm running are ones created for the Stage 2 hardware I'm running and have been developed in conjunction with a group in China who are using these boxes on their modified cars.
Unfortunately I think the box is causing the varied power in the car. I don't believe it has lost power compared to stock but sometimes it feels as though it's running stock, other times it feels like I'm driving a freight train. I don't know for a fact that it's the box which is causing this though - just an "educated guess" given that there's no CELs other than the O2 sensors.
Great - thank you.
Apologies if this is suck eggs stuff ......
I'd earnestly caution that 'chips', 'boxes' et al only bend/adjust the input signals to those specific sensors (leaving the rest of the ECU software as-is) and as such, have relatively limited capabilities based on tweaking two or more sensor inputs.
In a way they can be seen as a relatively safe option for small tweaks and power gains insomuch as the rest of the ECU's logic and software is left untouched and remains working for you in the background.
Regardless of the box chosen, the recipe is very much the same in each case whether it is box, chip or whatever - crank up the boost, tweak the fuel supply and tweak the timing. Many of the boxes contain the same boards and circuitry inside and adopt the principle of develop once for a standard solution and then sell it many times.
Whatever, with any after market tuning this erodes some of the safety margins calculated by the engine manufacturer which are a necessary part of the OEM 'guaranteeing' the longevity of the car and engine as a system.
I guess I am saying that you'd be taking a quite significant risk to chase higher power with such a crude solution.
If your engine has flat spots, or doesn't idle correctly, without the knowledge of your AFRs and timing I'd be considering returning the sate of the car to as it was, before any longer-term damage accrues.
Perhaps itt may be better to wait for a Revo/APR style tried and tested full software adjust which is more sophisticated, tested and generally safer; further, it may offer the option to be 'adjusted' to account for your hardware changes.
This is only my opinion and take it for what its worth.....but it is one based on considerable experience - some much of it good and some of it not so great!
Best wishes,
Dingah
Apologies if this is suck eggs stuff ......
I'd earnestly caution that 'chips', 'boxes' et al only bend/adjust the input signals to those specific sensors (leaving the rest of the ECU software as-is) and as such, have relatively limited capabilities based on tweaking two or more sensor inputs.
In a way they can be seen as a relatively safe option for small tweaks and power gains insomuch as the rest of the ECU's logic and software is left untouched and remains working for you in the background.
Regardless of the box chosen, the recipe is very much the same in each case whether it is box, chip or whatever - crank up the boost, tweak the fuel supply and tweak the timing. Many of the boxes contain the same boards and circuitry inside and adopt the principle of develop once for a standard solution and then sell it many times.
Whatever, with any after market tuning this erodes some of the safety margins calculated by the engine manufacturer which are a necessary part of the OEM 'guaranteeing' the longevity of the car and engine as a system.
I guess I am saying that you'd be taking a quite significant risk to chase higher power with such a crude solution.
If your engine has flat spots, or doesn't idle correctly, without the knowledge of your AFRs and timing I'd be considering returning the sate of the car to as it was, before any longer-term damage accrues.
Perhaps itt may be better to wait for a Revo/APR style tried and tested full software adjust which is more sophisticated, tested and generally safer; further, it may offer the option to be 'adjusted' to account for your hardware changes.
This is only my opinion and take it for what its worth.....but it is one based on considerable experience - some much of it good and some of it not so great!
Best wishes,
Dingah
Yeah sucking eggs 
, but some tuning boxes have come on since the days of just generic versions. Like any product there are good and bad suppliers but dtuk, just to give one example, aren't simply just a retailer for them, they extensively test each box on individual vehicles, both on a rolling road dyno and out on the road. This way they can optimise the settings for each vehicle..
Again based upon my experiences of tuning boxes and ECU remaps...
, but some tuning boxes have come on since the days of just generic versions. Like any product there are good and bad suppliers but dtuk, just to give one example, aren't simply just a retailer for them, they extensively test each box on individual vehicles, both on a rolling road dyno and out on the road. This way they can optimise the settings for each vehicle..Again based upon my experiences of tuning boxes and ECU remaps...
Yup -I'm using a DTUK right now whilst APR do their development and for me it provides a decent bang for the buck but it's output is not truly capable of achieving mid 3s 0-60 which is where this all started.
Did the same on my RSQ3 until moving to APR.
Regardless as to how some boxes may or may not have improved, DTUK own an Audi B9S4 as their development mule which gives some reassurance.
Cheers
Dingah
Did the same on my RSQ3 until moving to APR.
Regardless as to how some boxes may or may not have improved, DTUK own an Audi B9S4 as their development mule which gives some reassurance.
Cheers
Dingah
I have a S4 b9 running the JB4 with just an intake. i had it rolling roaded at 441.6bhp. I have also been to Santa pod and done the 1/4 in the same time as a rs5 12.01 seconds, so I would think that the power is about right. It was also around 28°c on the day with a head wind, I also have done some dragy runs with much better conditions and managed a 3.47s 0-60 and a 11.69s 1/4 the jb4 also shows you your AFR, IAT, boost, Ignition timing on all cylinders, logs lots of stuff. Expensive but worth it to be honest. Eventually I will go for the APR but will probably keep the box to be able to log and keep an eye on things when going for hybrid turbo in the future.
Sorry mate, strangers on the internet who have never seen your car told me its just not capable of those numbers using a piggy box.
Your dyno, FIA approved timing gear at the drag strip and GPS equipment are wrong....
Yes the development of the dtuk box was followed in this forum, I think the car has gone back to Audi now with no issues detected. I've never been interested in out and out 0-60 figures, as with normal motoring there's no much of an opportunity to use, and all you do is bring attention to yourself. More so the overtaking grunt, hence torque, is the more important figure than power anyway, and how it is delivered....
For those in the UK, SA Tuning now have a stage 1 and stage 2 ECU remap for the S4. The garage’s owner has a B9 S4 so presume he knows what he’s doing.
Personally waiting for Revo or APR.
Personally waiting for Revo or APR.
I’m going to wait also, I haven’t heard of SA tuning until he was so say the first to do a remap of the car. Also by have figures purely from his dyno I would love to see some drag strip times to see how it performs.
Bit chav with the bangs but it's impressive
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Each to their own but that sounds awful.
The front end like an asthmatic snake and the back end like a misplaced pyrotechnic display.
Judging by how many VAG fours around London I hear popping and banging there must be a market but I sense German Audi engineers grimacing at this tuning effort.
The front end like an asthmatic snake and the back end like a misplaced pyrotechnic display.
Judging by how many VAG fours around London I hear popping and banging there must be a market but I sense German Audi engineers grimacing at this tuning effort.
I don't mind tablets at all, at least you didn't call it a apple product so a like goes to you...
If you notice the guy doesn’t even let it warm up before banging it off the limited cheers for that mate. Pop pop bang warranty also gone from the tune haha
Just curious but how can you tell? MMI screen looks like it's in standard audio screen
Any news from MRC on how they are getting on with this?
Based on my previous B8, MRC sand APR are the two players to watch. And I am in favour of MRC personally as they are UK based and are developing using the same Shell VPower/Momentum99 as the rest of us fill with.
It all depends on how good that little turbo is, I see TTE 5XX, but it’d be fantastic if we can see B8 Stage 2 power, which is typically 480bhp/600nm.
We have 500nm as standard, and being turbo 600+nm should be easy enough.
But if the turbo is asthmatic then we will struggle for the power. I reckon in theory the engine should be good for 50bhp more than the B8s due to no supercharger drive losses, but all depends on the turbos ability.
Still miss the urgency and noise from my Stage2 B8!
Based on my previous B8, MRC sand APR are the two players to watch. And I am in favour of MRC personally as they are UK based and are developing using the same Shell VPower/Momentum99 as the rest of us fill with.
It all depends on how good that little turbo is, I see TTE 5XX, but it’d be fantastic if we can see B8 Stage 2 power, which is typically 480bhp/600nm.
We have 500nm as standard, and being turbo 600+nm should be easy enough.
But if the turbo is asthmatic then we will struggle for the power. I reckon in theory the engine should be good for 50bhp more than the B8s due to no supercharger drive losses, but all depends on the turbos ability.
Still miss the urgency and noise from my Stage2 B8!
Supposedly some tuners have played with 480bhp, around 660Nm. 600Nm is easily doable for Stage 1 though, so torque isn't really an issue right now. As far as I'm aware the turbo is currently the limit (and fuel) since they flat out so quickly in the higher rev range. The transmission is also pretty limiting as I'm certain I read that it can't be properly tuned yet, but don't quote me on it.
I'm booked in for a Stage 2 remap Tuesday. Depending on how it goes, I might purchase a turbo upgrade afterwards. Even with a slightly larger hybrid turbo, people are pushing over 500bhp from what I've seen (sorry, I don't have any links as they're just random threads I've been googling).
Turbo upgrade is pretty "cheap" for the power benefit - 1.7k euros ex VAT if you send your turbo in as a donor. Someone else advised buying a used turbo and sending that in, as it's cheaper than not sending one in and it also means you can keep your OEM turbo if you need to return to it in the future.
From what I've seen, APR are probably a good 6 months or so out. If you want to follow their progress, they're active to an extent on Audizine.
I'm buzzing to get my car remapped, and I'll let everyone know what the power figures, 0-60 times, costs are etc. I don't really have anywhere to do a 60-120 time around here but if I can find a suitable location I will. I'm also having brake pads replaced and spark plugs done so I'll throw in the costs for those if anybody is just curious.
I'm booked in for a Stage 2 remap Tuesday. Depending on how it goes, I might purchase a turbo upgrade afterwards. Even with a slightly larger hybrid turbo, people are pushing over 500bhp from what I've seen (sorry, I don't have any links as they're just random threads I've been googling).
Turbo upgrade is pretty "cheap" for the power benefit - 1.7k euros ex VAT if you send your turbo in as a donor. Someone else advised buying a used turbo and sending that in, as it's cheaper than not sending one in and it also means you can keep your OEM turbo if you need to return to it in the future.
From what I've seen, APR are probably a good 6 months or so out. If you want to follow their progress, they're active to an extent on Audizine.
I'm buzzing to get my car remapped, and I'll let everyone know what the power figures, 0-60 times, costs are etc. I don't really have anywhere to do a 60-120 time around here but if I can find a suitable location I will. I'm also having brake pads replaced and spark plugs done so I'll throw in the costs for those if anybody is just curious.
Llynchmobb
Registered User
I've spoken to Llynch, he has had his tuned successfully so I can only assume you can expect some dyno graphs soon
My centre diff actually blew up before I got the chance to have it remapped, so it's going to be a couple of weeks before mine is back on the road.
My centre diff actually blew up before I got the chance to have it remapped, so it's going to be a couple of weeks before mine is back on the road.
I've spoken to Llynch, he has had his tuned successfully so I can only assume you can expect some dyno graphs soon
My centre diff actually blew up before I got the chance to have it remapped, so it's going to be a couple of weeks before mine is back on the road.
How did you managed to blow the diff?
